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Description

Excellent climbing on well-featured schist on routes between about 15 and 50 metres.

Approach

From the Gorge Road carpark follow the trail to Magnum Wall. Twenty metres to its left, immediately off the walking trail, is a dirt trail leading up. Follow it for a minute or two and the track opens out around Master of Puppets. Go right 30 seconds for the popular routes or left a couple of minutes for other great routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Guillaume Charton & Neal McAloon, 2013

FA: Scott Kennedy, 2004

Straight up the black face

FA: Guillaume Charton & Estelle Poiron, 2012

Start as for Carrottophrenia or just scramble up the gully to the right and then up the right line. Very nice climbing the whole way.

Bolted corner crack left of Tel Aviv Express.

The obvious arete

FA: Ofi Fischler, 2004

P1 steep and short to ledge. P2 continues steeply.

FA: Dave Macleod, 2012

A direct start to No Name a few metres to the right of pitch 1.

Climb through a funky flake.

FA: Dave Bolger, 2008

P1 - 12 - 4b - 8m

P2 - 14 - 9b - 15m

P3 - 18 - 5b - 8m

FA: Dave Macleod, 2004

Best climbed in 2 pitches.

The direct start (from below the ledge) is a grade 18 and adds about 3m.

P1 - 15 - 12m - 7 bolts (or 18/15/8 for the direct start)

P2 - 17 - 15m - 5 bolts

FA: Dave Macleod, 2004

The rightmost route. There's a weird alternate start to this with a line of two bolts about halfway between this and Cliptomania. Ignore those and climb the well featured black rock.

FA: Ofi Fischler, 2004

Activity

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