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The classic crag for the area. If your only here for a day or two this is definitely the crag to check out. Very exposed at approximately 1000 meters and a some of the classics of the area. Don't leave without climbing 'The Mission' Bring a 60m rope and lots (12+) quickdraws


From the top of the road, follow the walking track for approx 20 minutes. You will eventually come to a junction with a sign that says "track" pointing one way and a waterfall the other.

Ignore the sign and follow the bridge across the waterfall. Continue to follow the water pipe. Keep folowing until it turns into a walkway. Follow the walkway all the way to the end. You will eventually come to the main waterfall of Wye Creek. Cross the final bridge then follow the small walking track up to the main wall. If you are walking on a path that doesn't look well trodden, you are going the wrong way. You will end up at the Main wall, and you will know you are at the arete where 'The Mission' is as there is a small tree there too.


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Grade Route
15 * Liver Abuse Unknown 10m
15 Te Koha Unknown 12m
14 * Windy September Unknown 16m
14 Wet Sunday Sport 15m
15 * Indecent Exposure Sport 15m, 7

Start 3m left of 'The Quest' up past two FH. Then step over onto the left slab and continue up the last 5 remaining FH to a chain anchor.

FA: Sally Carter, 2004

14 * The Quest Sport 15m, 5

Start at the fixed belay anchors at the bottom. Straight up the slab past 5 FH and lots of holds. Chain anchor

18 ** Almi Sport 30m, 13

FA: Swenja Stellfeld, 1997


FA: Steve Carr, 1998

15 Beyond The Pale Trad 30m

Start as for Alien Resurrection and finishing up corner to anchor left of Bigger than Big.Originally climbed the 88 Chocolate Treats start then straight up the upper corner

FA: Simon Middlemass, 1998

18 ** 88 Chocolate Treats Sport 30m, 11

Two meters left of 'Bigger than Big', just next the the small tree. Straight up the face past to FH to a small rooflet with another FH over just above. Continue through the bulge and left at the overhang with one FH on it. Follow the large crack to the left and back onto the face for an easy finish at the chain anchor.

FA: Swenja Stellford, 1997

17 * Bigger Than Big Sport 30m, 8

Up through a lightly steep section with some great jugs past 2 FH then a big move up over the bulge. Nice and easy slab climb to finish, though may be a tad run out for a beginner leader. Double ring lower off.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

22 * La Belle Vie Sport 10m, 3

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2005

20 * La Submission Sport 12m, 3

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007

16 *** The Mission Sport 30m, 8

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the FH's up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor

FA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996

18 * Lucalucki Sport 32m, 14
17 ** Don't Be Deceived Sport 29m, 8

FA: Mark Woodward, 1996

18 No Bro, Bro Mixed 29m, 2
23 * Monsieur Muscle Sport 28m, 10
19 ** Smellie Crack Sport 28m, 10
22 * No holds Barred Sport 25m, 8

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

23 *** Aratika Sport 30m, 10

FA: Russ McRae, 1996

16 Aramuru (The Gentle Way) Mixed 30m, 4

FA: Doug Smelie, 1999

17 * Up the Creek Sport 30m, 9

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

17 ** About Time Sport 30m, 13

FA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996

15 Aroha Mixed 25m, 2

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

18 Ford Crack Trad 30m

FA: Sally & Aaron Ford, 2007

23 Between the Lines Sport 30m, 10

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

18 Arapiko Trad 30m

FA: Sally & Aaron Ford, 2007

26 The Short Fat Version Sport 20m, 10

FA: Bruce Dowick

24 ** Drunken Monkey Sport 20m, 9

FA: Gordy Watson & Andy Mills

23 ** Proud Monkey Sport 20m, 7

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

24 ** Red Curry Pot Climb Sport 12m, 4

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

21 ** Dream Thing Sport 15m, 8

FA: Ian Bull, 1999

23 ** Drop Kick To The Head Sport 15m, 4

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

25 TNT Sport 15m, 7

FA: Ton Burnell, 2007

21 ** More Monkey Business Sport 20m, 7

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

21 Raining Body Parts Sport 20m, 7

FA: Ian Bull, 1999


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