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Table of contents

1. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.770571, -45.141510


The classic crag for the area. If your only here for a day or two this is definitely the crag to check out. Very exposed at approximately 1000 meters and a some of the classics of the area. Don't leave without climbing 'The Mission' Bring a 60m rope and lots (12+) quickdraws


From the top of the road, follow the walking track for approx 20 minutes. You will eventually come to a junction with a sign that says "track" pointing one way and a waterfall the other. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/141639237

Ignore the sign and follow the bridge across the waterfall. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/141639225 Continue to follow the water pipe. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/141639213 Keep folowing until it turns into a walkway. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/141639201 Follow the walkway all the way to the end. You will eventually come to the main waterfall of Wye Creek. Cross the final bridge then follow the small walking track up to the main wall. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/141639177 If you are walking on a path that doesn't look well trodden, you are going the wrong way. You will end up at the Main wall, and you will know you are at the arete where 'The Mission' is as there is a small tree there too.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Liver Abuse 15 Unknown 10m
2 Te Koha 15 Unknown 12m
3 * Windy September 14 Unknown 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Wet Sunday 14 Sport 15m
5 Indecent Exposure

Start 3m left of 'The Quest' up past two FH. Then step over onto the left slab and continue up the last 5 remaining FH to a chain anchor.

FA: Sally Carter, 2004

15 Sport 15m, 7
6 The Quest

Start at the fixed belay anchors at the bottom. Straight up the slab past 5 FH and lots of holds. Chain anchor

14 Sport 15m, 5
7 Almi

FA: Swenja Stellfeld, 1997

18 Sport 30m, 13
8 Alien Resurrection / No More Mr Nice Guy

FA: Steve Carr, 1998

16 Trad 30m
9 Beyond The Pale

Start as for Alien Resurrection and finishing up corner to anchor left of Bigger than Big.Originally climbed the 88 Chocolate Treats start then straight up the upper corner

FA: Simon Middlemass, 1998

15 Trad 30m
10 ** 88 Chocolate Treats

Two meters left of 'Bigger than Big', just next the the small tree. Straight up the face past to FH to a small rooflet with another FH over just above. Continue through the bulge and left at the overhang with one FH on it. Follow the large crack to the left and back onto the face for an easy finish at the chain anchor.

FA: Swenja Stellford, 1997

18 Sport 30m, 11
11 * Bigger Than Big

Up through a lightly steep section with some great jugs past 2 FH then a big move up over the bulge. Nice and easy slab climb to finish, though may be a tad run out for a beginner leader. Double ring lower off.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

17 Sport 30m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 La Belle Vie

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2005

22 Sport 10m, 3
13 La Submission

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007

20 Sport 12m, 3
14 *** The Mission

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the FH's up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor

FA: Mark Whetu, Russ McRae, 1996

16 Sport 30m, 8
15 Lucalucki 18 Sport 32m, 14
16 Don't Be Deceived

FA: Mark Woodward, 1996

17 Sport 29m, 8
17 No Bro, Bro 18 Mixed 29m, 2
18 * Monsieur Muscle 23 Sport 28m, 10
19 Smellie Crack 19 Sport 28m, 10
20 No holds Barred

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

22 Sport 25m, 8
21 *** Aratika

FA: Russ McRae, 1996

23 Sport 30m, 10
22 Aramuru (The Gentle Way)

FA: Doug Smelie, 1999

16 Mixed 30m, 4
23 Up the Creek

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

17 Sport 30m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 ** About Time

FA: Mark Whetu, Russ McRae, 1996

17 Sport 30m, 13
25 Aroha

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

15 Mixed 25m, 2
26 Ford Crack

FA: Sally, Aaron Ford, 2007

18 Trad 30m
27 Between the Lines

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

23 Sport 30m, 10
28 Arapiko

FA: Sally, Aaron Ford, 2007

18 Trad 30m
29 The Short Fat Version

FA: Bruce Dowick

26 Sport 20m, 10
30 ** Drunken Monkey

FA: Gordy Watson, Andy Mills

24 Sport 20m, 9
31 ** Proud Monkey

FA: Ian Binnie, 1996

23 Sport 20m, 7
32 Red Curry Pot Climb

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

24 Sport 12m, 4
33 *** Dream Thing

FA: Ian Bull, 1999

21 Sport 15m, 8
34 Drop Kick To The Head

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

23 Sport 15m, 4
35 TNT

FA: Ton Burnell, 2007

25 Sport 15m, 7
36 More Monkey Business

FA: Doug Smellie, 1999

21 Sport 20m, 7
37 Raining Body Parts

FA: Ian Bull, 1999

21 Sport 20m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 The Quest Sport 15m, 5
Wet Sunday Sport 15m
* Windy September Unknown 16m
15 Aroha Mixed 25m, 2
Beyond The Pale Trad 30m
Indecent Exposure Sport 15m, 7
Liver Abuse Unknown 10m
Te Koha Unknown 12m
16 Alien Resurrection Trad 30m
Aramuru (The Gentle Way) Mixed 30m, 4
*** The Mission Sport 30m, 8
17 ** About Time Sport 30m, 13
* Bigger Than Big Sport 30m, 8
Don't Be Deceived Sport 29m, 8
Up the Creek Sport 30m, 9
18 ** 88 Chocolate Treats Sport 30m, 11
Almi Sport 30m, 13
Arapiko Trad 30m
Ford Crack Trad 30m
Lucalucki Sport 32m, 14
No Bro, Bro Mixed 29m, 2
19 Smellie Crack Sport 28m, 10
20 La Submission Sport 12m, 3
21 *** Dream Thing Sport 15m, 8
More Monkey Business Sport 20m, 7
Raining Body Parts Sport 20m, 7
22 La Belle Vie Sport 10m, 3
No holds Barred Sport 25m, 8
23 *** Aratika Sport 30m, 10
Between the Lines Sport 30m, 10
Drop Kick To The Head Sport 15m, 4
* Monsieur Muscle Sport 28m, 10
** Proud Monkey Sport 20m, 7
24 ** Drunken Monkey Sport 20m, 9
Red Curry Pot Climb Sport 12m, 4
25 TNT Sport 15m, 7
26 The Short Fat Version Sport 20m, 10