Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Vatican | |||||||
16 | ★ Schism in the Faith - with Gabby, Gabby | 20m, 8 | |||||
Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
18 | ★★ Jock the Frotterer | 18m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★★ In Flagrante Dilecto | 20m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★★ Girl Trouble | 15m, 6 | |||||
19 | ★ Bloodline | 15m, 5 | |||||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Anti Walk Device - with Lucy | 25m, 10 | |||||
21 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll P1
1
21
17m
| 17m, 7 | |||||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
21 | ★ Chink in the Armour | 15m, 5 | |||||
18 | ★ Spiral Staircase | 20m, 7 | |||||
21 | ★ Pump Iron | 20m, 6 | |||||
19 | ★ New Route | 20m, 8 | |||||
19 | ★ Toe the Line | 20m, 8 | |||||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Al Cove | |||||||
19 | ★★ Chinese Hospitality | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
flash pump city. greasy holds
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
21 | ★ Anagaanga | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
last climb of the day pumped out
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22 | ★★ Shark Chirac | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
22 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
20 | ★ The Naked Thumb | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
hard start
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Office | |||||||
26 | ★★ Reign Of Terra | 12 | |||||
24 | ★★ Hope Springs Eternal | 15m, 10 | |||||
21 | ★ Please Hold The Line | 15m, 5 | |||||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
18 | ★ Rusty Pins | 15m, 6 | |||||
17 | ★★ Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun | 15m, 4 | |||||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
14 | ★★ The Big Corner | 20m | |||||
14 | ★★ Wasted On the Wing | 15m | |||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete | 20m, 5 | |||||
14 | ★★ The Big Corner | 20m | |||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Brummy Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Easy off Spam - with Gabby | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Bakehouse | |||||||
13 | ★ Milk and Cookies - with Gabby | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Led top half as second pitch to monkey toes.
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13 | ★ Monkey Toes - with Gabby | 8m, 4 | |||||
14 | ★ Curiously Sheepish - with Gabby | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Brummy Crag | |||||||
17 | ★★ Briefcase Wanker - with Gabby | 50m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Eldorado Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Cruffiton Touch | 16m, 8 | |||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Iron Curtain | |||||||
19 | ★ Pitchin' & Moanin' | 15m, 6 | |||||
22 | ★★ I May Be Old But At Least I'm Crusty | 20m, 10 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Bastard from Gunn Rd | 20m, 10 | |||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Al Cove | |||||||
19 | ★ The Army Route - with Jess Cotton | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
20 | ★ Cunning Linguistics - with Jess Cotton | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
26 | ★★ Huha — 4 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First couple goes was warming up fingers then trying different beta, 3rd go was trying beta I thought would work but was to powerful, figured out a different way. 4th try I made it through the crux but messed it up near the top. Gutted to not do it but glad I managed to get through the crux. Would have tried again but we're meeting friends at a different crag. Next time it will be done!!
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Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | |||||||
21 | ★★ Aretenaphobia - with Jess Cotton | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★★ The Ramp - with Jess Cotton | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★ Slightly English - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
20 | ★ Practising Arms - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Hospital Flat Boulders | |||||||
V3 | ★★ #5 | 3m | |||||
V0 | ★ 4 | 2m | |||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Middle Curtain | |||||||
22 | ★★★ AP32 | 20m, 6 | |||||
19 | Sidewinder | 15m, 3 | |||||
21 | ★ Pania of the Reef | 20m, 7 | |||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
24 |
★ Wicked Corner
1
21
2
24
| 28m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
Platform face | |||||||
19 | ★ Return of the Jedi | ★ Good | |||||
22 | ★ Emprire strikes back | ★ Good | |||||
Right from the ground it's thin, not much feet, trying to place micro wires! We got scared and pumped
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14 | ★ Jame and Biscuits | ★ Good | |||||
So much jamming! Pretty fun, shame that the anchor is off-line. Narrowly avoided getting shmushed by a loose block.
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
20 | ★★ Disco Inferno | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★★ Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Finish Me Off — 2 attempts - with siâny | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard to read onsight. Fun climbing, skip the first bolt
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16 Hard | ★ Sideways - with siâny | 14m, 5 | |||||
Pointy
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17 | ★ Reach Around - with siâny | 14m, 6 | |||||
The arete is your friend
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19 | ★★ Humpy - with siâny | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool moves down low, mellows out as you get higher
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - The Gully | |||||||
Pitch 2 | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Tomoa at home | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - The Gully | |||||||
The Runnels | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Love Divide | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - The Gully | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
V2 | Baddadan | Average | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Nichols Creek | |||||||
Easter Egg Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Chocolate Bunny | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | |||||||
17 | ★★ Climb Into The Unknown | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
15 | ★★ Pulp Fiction | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
15 | ★★ Under The Moonlight | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
12 | ★ Liss Route | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Hotline Corner | |||||||
22 Easy | ★★★ The Hotline — 2 attempts | 15m | |||||
23 | ★ Mortuary Slab | 15m, 6 | |||||
19 | ★★★ Fuckity Fuck Fuck | 30m, 12 | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Stuka | 18m | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
15 ~17 | ★ The Leveller | 10m, 3 | |||||
17 | ★ Concrete thinkers | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - The Gully | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
V2 | Baddadan | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - The Gully | |||||||
Pitch 2 | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Tomoa at home | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - The Gully | |||||||
The Runnels | |||||||
V2 | ★ Bucking Bronco | ★ Good | |||||
V3 | ★★ Love Divide | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
21 | ★ Chink in the Armour | 15m, 5 | |||||
25 | ★★ Mind Bender | 15m, 5 | |||||
2 attempts
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Glenorchie | |||||||
Mt Chaos East Face | |||||||
17 ~20 |
★ Chaos Theory
- with
Grant Caldwell
1
16
55
2
16
55
3
16
40
4
17
60
5
9
60
6
9
60
7
13
60
8
16
40
| 430m | Don't Bother | ||||
Wanted to jump on this for a while! Extremely runout (15m - 30m between pretty uninspiring placements).
Approach is pretty straightforward - as of 24/03/2024 there's a cairn on the second dry stream after the flat where you start bashing up the stream, and 4.5 hours from the car was pretty much bang on in the dark accounting for getting lost a bit and faffing around with the river crossing. Only 1.5 hours up the stream to the first fixed rope. I probably wouldn't trust it after another Winter (pulling on it resulted in some pretty uninspiring sounds), and you probably shouldn't expect it to still be there (there's a very licheny 6m climb which you get to by following the cliff on your left to the very end). The other two fixed ropes were gone (we found the remains of one of them), but its pretty cruisy scrambling anyway. Kea Bivvy ledge is sweet, but bring a soft bottle because the water just trickles, and it's kinda hard to collect. In general, the climbing was super run out, and a lot of it was wet and there's heaps of tussock pulling. We got slightly off route looking at the topo and went directly up the face (instead of up the grassy gully which is described as a crack), and ended up linking the first pitch to somewhere in the middle of the third pitch at Grade 19/20 with a 40m runout. Went directly up to the middle of pitch 5 from here, at a more realistic 16/17. Bit worried at this point because we hadn't seen any of the alleged "DBAs" but found a solitary bolt we reckon was the top of pitch 5 (no sign of the piton mentioned in the guide). Spent a couple of hours searching the ledge for the other "DBA" at the top of pitch 6 to confirm we were actually on the route but couldn't find it. Eventually wandered up where we thought pitch 7 was and up pitch 8 (again, I think we got a bit off route, but had a cool 18ish pitch with some good pro, which was a novelty at that point). Rapped down off the single bolt at the top of pitch 8 and set up a bollard to rap back to the ledge where we walked back to the top of pitch 5 and rapped off another single bolt. Rap anchors look pretty traversey in the topo but they're actually straight down, and from the top of pitch 5 we did 2 30m abseils and a 55m to get back to our bivvy. "DBAs" at the top of pitches seemed to mostly be single bolts, and we didn't find most of the ones mentioned in the guide. Rap stations sometimes had two bolts but didn't always have maillons/rings/biners on them. If you go up take a few maillions and some tat as there are some pretty manky anchors. The one at the top of pitch one, has a loose nut which gets pulled out of the crack when loaded Cool location, but probably won't be back for this route |
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Thing | 15m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★★ About Time | 30m, 13 | |||||
24 | ★★★ Aratika | 30m, 10 | |||||
19 | ★★ 88 Chocolate Treats | 31m, 11 | |||||
Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Eldorado Wall | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★ The Cruffiton Touch — 4 attempts | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool, hard sequence!
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Pink Cadillac | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A touch easier than IAEIT but a few slightly more awkward moves. Very cool. Kinda a shame there are so many bolts on the lower wall?
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22 | ★★ It Always Ends In Tears | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a good route
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Little Big Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out - with siâny | 45m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun and chill mini multi with all the bolts one could desire!
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lunge Starter — 3 attempts - with siâny | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just can’t link the top moves
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20 | ★★ Disco Inferno - with siâny | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Spectacular climbing, 3 bolts of pure glory, with a testing top out. Best climb in the area
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
23 | ★★ Land of Milk and Honeys | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | |||||||
21 | ★★ Aretenaphobia — 2 attempts | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★ Ara Tuatahi | 16m, 5 | Average | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
17 | ★★ The Crack | 15m | |||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
14 | ★★ The Big Corner | 20m | |||||
20 | ★★ Lolly Gobble Bliss Bomb | 20m | |||||
19 | ★ The Nutty Professor | 15m | |||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
17 | ★★ Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun - with siâny | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good!
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete - with siâny | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun, good holds all the way
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14 | ★★ The Big Corner - with siâny | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The final few moves along the blade make it really worthwhile
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