Routes in Waitaha / Canterbury

Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then traverse left across Creatures of Power to finish up Kublai Khan.

SS as per Opération Satanique but take the easy exit straight up via the juggy pinch.

SS on the slopey lip with a good crimp rail for the right hand. Follow the runnel to the arete on slopers and small crimps.

A Technical corner to a roof (protected by bolt)

SS on the obvious left side of the rail and up the pyramid feature

SS on the edges and up the rail.

Far left of the Bitter bitch boulder, on the black rock. SS under the roof with sloping lip holds and ooze your way over the bulge.

LH in the sloping pod, RH below and move right into starting holds of Bitter Bitch

Sit start below the arete with good right hand crimp and left hand on the undercling pinch above head height. Climb the arete and face.

Start on the pillar between Gorgon and 50/50. Climb past a thin section past 3 bolts, then link into the top of Gorgon.

Near 'The Rad Slab'. Sit start low on road-facing arete and traverse leftward using slopers and jugs.

Climb the corner at the back of the earthquake scar, gear in crack. Can climb up through the hole or start from the top of the block.

Climb Gorilla Grip to its 5th bolt then break left across the obvious rail to join the top of Rubble.

Compression arete. Sit start and head upward to rounded top.

Sit start the right arête using left hand crimp and right hand polished edge

Start with excellent pinch in middle of face and head upward with high step and mantel.

Sit start on good undercling and follow left leaning diagonal crack.

Stand-start on lowest edge and traverse leftward, finishing approximately at Thundercling.

Sit-start left hand low on arete and right hand on right hand arete. Compress up excellent holds.

Sit start, right hand on good crimp and left hand on rubbish sloper. Compress and jump for the good sloper.

There are two good looking corner cracks that start at half height, this is the impressive steep one on the right. Arapilesian.

The long corner and wild roof crack right of Monarch

The impressive yellow corner, starting from the right side of the same boulder as Consequence. Up the corner past two bolts to gain a finger crack to a slab. Continue to the top past two more bolts.

Start in the corner and move left with fingery moves to the first bolt; then up the arête past the second bolt to good holds. Place gear and climb the right side of the crack and directly up the slab with gear in the two horizontal breaks.

Start up the corner past the gorse stumps and gain the crack on the right to skirt a gungy section, climbing past a flax bush. Then back to the corner for a squeeze chimney/off-width struggle to summit.

Climb Mega Pump but instead of going straight up at the left end of the Gone Bimbo traverse, continue left to link into Layer Cake.

First move is a dynamic move up to the side pull

Start between Minimal Disturbance and Funication, in the middle of the main part of the Year Right Wall. Climb the surprisingly technical slab, then surmount the roof following the v-groove. Execute a mantle and then ramble to the top, linking into the last two bolts of Funication.

Into garden then bridge off left side of tapered column to gain the roof, jam and struggle into the widening crack above.

Up black slab with small wires and cams to a bolt. Finish at tree or continue up The Black Slab

Up seam past an initial undercut roof, then head towards the top.

Up a cracked arete to a bolt, then some tricky face climbing. Continue up blocky terrain to gain a nice hand crack and the top. Anchor is out right on the slab.

Start on the big squared hold then climb up the corner to a jug. Problem #5 in Tony's guide.

Start on the big squared hold then climb straight up. Problem #4 in Tony's guide.

Start on the big squared hold then head left to join 'End of the Rainbow'. Problem #3 in Tony's guide.

Climb the slab.

Climb the arete.

Rock over onto the left heel and mantle.

Climb the positive arete from a SS.

Stand start left hand on the pinch side pull and right hand on the good crimp high up the right arete. Rock over onto the slab.

SS left hand on the sloppy sidepull and right hand on the L-shaped crimp. Rock over onto your left heel, reach up to the good gaston and balance your way onto the slab.

Start as per 'Mistakes of Cowardice' but exit left onto the slab after the crux move to the arete.

SS left hand on the arete and right hand on the good gaston. One move to the good hold.

Stand start on left hand on the side pull just right of arete and right palm pressing the good side pull. Tricky high feet and one move to the top.

SS left hand and foot on the arete and right hand on the sloppy crimp on the face. One move up to the good hold right of arete then mantle finish.

Start up 'Steel Rain' and climb to it's third bolt. Instead of questing off into the head wall with dubious nuts to protect the top half of the route, climb rightwards into the dihedral of 'Rodeo Corner' and finish for that route. Combines the best bits of both routes.

SS with a left hand on the good side pull and right hand on the slopey pinch. Move right hand up to a good hold and find some feet to pull through.

SS with left hand on the bad crimp side pull and right hand on the arete. Use bad feet to reach up and left to a decent slopper. Mantle finish.

SS using the good side pull on the left arete and crimpy side pull on the right face. Use the slopey arete or bump directly to the higher side pull for extra points. Mantle finish.

SS left hand on slopey side pull and right foot dangling underneath the overhang. Press up to an easy finish.

SS on the juggy pinch and the good side-pull crimp just right of arete. Small edge for the left foot and good rail for the right. Pinch your way up the arete then mantle. A strong contender for best problem in the area.

Climb the arete from a stand position using wide pinches and small side-pull crimps to the right.

Stand start on the good right hand side pull and the slopey arete for the left. Head straight up then mantle the lip.

SS on the good right hand side pull and the bad slopper on the left face, tiptoeing on small feet. Big left-hand move to a slopper on the arete then mantle finish.

Start up Timberlands then traverse right into the corner after the second bolt. From there, follow the right-most line of bolts to the top.

As yet undocumented route. Climb the detached looking block then knee bar to glory. Finish up some loose blocks and lichenous holds. Appears to have been chopped before. Approximately grade 20 but unconfirmed.

Climb the crux of Bridging Over Lyttelton, then at the second bolt above the roof, head left to pass the final two bolts of Location… and finish as for that route. More sustained than the original, with a sting in the tail!

On the blunt arete left of Prophet of Doom.

Get reborn, squeeze up the tunnel on the underside of Rambandit. Graded "VE" on castlehillbasin.co.nz.

Straight up the least chossy rock on the boulder (northwest face), not worth the approach.

Starts around the corner from Spoc Snot, on the opposite side of the boulder from Didymo. Sit start on slopey rail with very low feet. Pull on and make a big move right to the sloper. Top out more easily on slopers from here.

Climb Ground Effect to the second bolt, then join Victim of Ravishment to finish. Possibly the hardest line on the wall, though probably not harder than Raj or Ground Effect by a full grade.

Start on the good edge and pocket. Edges to the shoulder.

SS matched on the jug in the groove then ooze up to the horizontal rail then mantle.

SS matched on the sloppy triangular feature then bump up the recess and use technical trickery to get your feet up. Tiptoe up the slabby arete to top out.

Climb the center of the face, starting either matched on the good crimp or spammed out on the left and right pinches.

SS with a good diagonal rail in each hand. Traverse the sloppy lip rightwards then exit via the crack.

Start matched on the jug then head up and left onto the arete.

Start right hand on the pinch above head height and left hand on the vertical crimp rail. Bump the right hand up to the good hold then move up and left to reach another juggy rail using intermediary slopers. Easier moves to top out on the slab.