Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. South Island 6,573 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 170.579008, -43.643587

1.1. Golden Bay 340 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 172.791108, -40.740725

1.1.1. Paynes Ford 224 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 172.811248, -40.883897

Description:

Paynes Ford is predominantly single-pitch sport climbs on limestone. Angles vary from slippery slabs to massive roofs. Best online guide is http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford

Access Issues:

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach:

Head for Takaka. About 2km before it, you'll cross a bridge: park in the carpark on the right, shortly before Hangdog Camp. From here, follow the main access trail. Smaller trails head up from this to the base of the crags.

Where To Stay:

Hangdog Camp is 5 minutes walk from the crag, or there are other options in Takaka. Hangdog also publish a cheap & cheerful guide to the grade 16-23 climbs for $10, available from the camp.

Ethic:

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

1.1.2. Tarakohe 88 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.1.3. Cable Bay 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. West Coast 198 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 171.457463, -41.914781

1.2.1. Charleston 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 171.458200, -41.912519

1.2.2. Fox Glacier 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.2.3. Franz Joseph Glacier 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.2.4. Balfour Glacier 0 routes in Crag

1.3. Castle Hill Basin 2,023 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 171.734352, -43.208326

Unique Features And Strengths:

The area contains thousands of weather sculptured limestone boulders. It is known around the world for its technical and powerful climbing.

Description:

Castle Hill basin is a semi-alpine area nestled between two mountain ranges (craigieburn and Torlesse) . Spittle HIll and Quantum Field are the most developed and thus polished areas.

Webcam of the area : http://www.castlehill.net.nz/webcam.php

Weather: http://www.castlehill.net.nz/Weather/weather.php

Also close to the excellent Hogs Back MTB trail and half a dozen club ski fields.

Access Issues:

Some areas are part of Kura Tawhiti Conservation Reserve and managed by the DOC, others are private property.

Approach:

The Canterbury high country, approx. 90km northwest of Christchurch. A 20 car carpark (with toilet) exists on the left side (heading north) off the West Coast Rd (a few km south of Castle Hill Village).

Where To Stay:

castle hill village or springfield or...

1.3.1. Spittle Hill 97 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 171.715891, -43.232217

1.3.2. Quantum Field 117 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 171.715069, -43.228950

1.3.3. Castle Hill 76 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.4. Dry Valley 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 171.753020, -43.194289

1.3.5. Cave stream 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 171.744311, -43.197476

1.3.6. Flock Hill 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 171.747052, -43.184628

1.3.7. Gorge Hill and Prebble Hill 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.8. Spittle Hill Bouldering(2003 guide) 710 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 171.715891, -43.232217

1.3.9. Quantum Field Bouldering 957 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 171.715277, -43.228916

1.3.10. Flock Hill Bouldering 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.4. Banks Peninsula 260 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.884907, -43.760570

1.4.1. Mt Bradley 84 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.2. Fantasy Factory 35 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.3. Crystal Clearlight 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.4.4. The Monument 43 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.4.5. Te Oka 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.6. Holmes Bay 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.4.7. Otepatotu 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 173.014601, -43.750664

1.4.8. Stony Bay Peak 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5. Inland Canterbury 141 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 171.181487, -43.661275

1.5.1. Redcliffe 31 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.5.2. Mt Somers 83 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad
Description:

Sub-alpine area, has some of the best cracks and volcanic columns (The rhyolite columns were forced up 136 million years ago) in the South Island. . If trad. is not your preference, the pinnacles area is fully bolted.

Approach:

Nearest major town is Methven - drive to the sharplin falls/staveluy turn off and travel to the Sharplin Falls car park. Take the track to the Pinnacles Hut (not the Mt Somers hut), take the high track over Dukes Knob. The first section is steep trail, but after 30 min. it levels out along the river and it is usually a 2.5hr walk to the Pinnacle Hut with a heavy pack.

1.5.3. Cloudy Peak 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6. Mount Cook Area 175 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 170.140129, -43.554298

1.6.1. Twin Stream 68 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.2. Mt Lloyd 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.3. Sebastapol Bluffs 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.6.4. Tasman Valley 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.5. Aoraki Bouldering 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Unknown

1.6.6. Mt Hicks 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Alpine and Unknown

1.6.7. Bush Stream 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Ice

Long/Lat: 170.038862, -43.858507

1.6.8. Ben Oahu Range 1 route in Unknown

Summary:
All Alpine
Description:

Southwest of the village

1.7. South Canterbury 245 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 171.238292, -44.148504

1.7.1. Hanging Rock 76 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 171.017914, -44.193138

1.7.2. Beautiful Valley 33 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.7.3. Raincliff 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.7.4. Mt Horrible 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.7.5. Spur Road 85 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.8. North Otago 395 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 169.638444, -44.915841

1.8.1. Elephant Rocks Bouldering 253 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.8.2. Elephant Rocks 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.3. Island Cliff Valley 62 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.4. Hulk Hogan Bouldering 78 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.9. Dunedin 268 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 170.565550, -45.845368

1.9.1. Long Beach 166 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 170.643514, -45.748070

1.9.2. Doctor's Point 30 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 170.607850, -45.733940

1.9.3. Mihiwaka 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 170.608575, -45.788195

1.9.4. Lovers Leap 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.9.5. Port Chalmers Quarry 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 170.620176, -45.813036

1.9.6. Mapoutahi 33 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 170.614631, -45.738627

1.10. Southland 108 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 167.844634, -46.091084

1.10.1. Colac Bay 59 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: 167.920956, -46.360567

1.10.2. Gable Rock 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.412270, -45.875916

Description:

!!! Hopefully getting more info on this Crag from the originators !!!

NO DOGS. Private land, leave gates as found, and take extreme care during lambing season. Cayford’s Track worth doing while in the area (1hr walk)

http://www.dipton.co.nz/

For information/status please contact: http://www.milliganseeds.co.nz/ (Landowner)

Approach:

From Dipton drive up Spirit Burn Rd, park at Cayford’s Track carpark, walk up to cliff via farm track. 20-30min walk.

History:

TBA

1.10.3. Castledowns 43 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.305734, -45.837577

1.11. Queenstown 291 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 168.683501, -45.040546

1.11.1. Wye Creek 137 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 168.767695, -45.141069

Unique Features And Strengths:

Exposure and amazing views

Approach:

Follow the highway out of Queenstown towards Milford Sound. The entrance is a small gate with a sign. Be sure to close the gate behind you ('Approach1.jpg') Follow the small road up to a grassy area where you can park your car, or if you have a 4WD keep going up to the top, there is space for 2 or 3 cars closer to the track entrance.

Once up the top you'll see a sign saying track and toilet ('Approach2.jpg'). Follow these signs and you'll pass a toilet. It's the last one so keep that in mind. (Approach3.jpg') This is the track to all of the walls at Wye Creek

Where To Stay:

Queenstown has plenty of accommodation. Camping is not permitted due to private land.

1.11.2. South Branch Wye Creek 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

1 hours walk above lower Wye

1.11.3. Remarkables 65 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Ice and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.817213, -45.064808

1.11.4. Chinamans Bluff 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.11.5. Unnamed (PRIVATE PROPERTY - RESTRICTED ACCESS!) 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Access Issues:

This crag currently closed to all climbers except for locals who know the landowners.

1.11.6. Sunshine Bay Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.11.7. Coronet Crag 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 168.689116, -44.979121

1.11.8. Gorge Road 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

1.11.9. Arawata Terrace 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
Description:

Schist set on the side of the hill amongst cabage trees. Short but steep walk in.

1.11.10. Event Centre 0 routes in Crag

1.11.11. Glenorchie 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Alpine

1.11.12. Kingston 0 routes in Crag

Description:

At the south end of Lake Wakitipu

1.12. Port Hills 1,423 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.696118, -43.609347

1.12.1. Farm Park 77 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.2. Breeze Bay 22 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.3. Black Wall 30 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.4. Jane Fonda 40 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.780854, -43.594674

Description:

About 25 - 35 meters tall on good rock with routes ranging from about 16 to 25

1.12.5. Evans Pass 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.6. Punk Rock 40 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.7. Coalditz 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.8. Crag X Area 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.9. Barnett Park 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 172.734742, -43.573803

1.12.10. Wunderbar 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.11. Three Sisters 88 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.12. Lyttelton Rock 98 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.12.13. Lyttelton Rock (duplicate - see South Island / Port Hills) 63 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.14. Cattlestop 73 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.12.15. Mt Pleasant 92 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.722368, -43.588789

1.12.16. Britten Crags 233 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.12.17. Britten Crag (duplicate - see South Island / Port Hills) 58 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.18. Paraglider 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.19. The Tors 36 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.12.20. Castle Rock 183 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.703439, -43.591902

1.12.21. Rapaki Rock 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.12.22. Huntsbury 33 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.23. Albert Tce 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.657897, -43.571773

1.12.24. Gibraltar 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.613963, -43.660493

1.12.25. Minor Crags 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 172.649190, -43.604452

1.12.26. one tree crag, Sumner 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.27. EQC 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 172.637292, -43.531304

Description:

EQC bouldering problems

Approach:

Identical all over the city, if you're lucky you may have one in your back yard.

1.13. Milford 421 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 167.901185, -44.628402

1.13.1. The Chasm 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 167.947716, -44.727283

1.13.2. The Earl Mountains 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.13.3. Darran Mountains 358 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.13.4. Babylon 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.13.5. Little Babylon 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Keep going up hill above Babylon

1.14. Wanaka 275 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 169.114542, -44.696051

1.14.1. Little Big Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.14.2. The Tombstone 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.965065, -44.654415

1.14.3. Crackhouse 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

Implied in the name there are some cracks to climb along with an assortment of good bolted routes

1.14.4. The Main Cliff 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.963336, -44.653664

1.14.5. The Cutting 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.14.6. Sunnyside 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

1.14.7. The Diamond 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

1.14.8. Riverside 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.953805, -44.657783

1.14.9. Roadside Attraction 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.949371, -44.650678

Description:

Excellent :)

Approach:

A couple of hundred metres down the road from riverside . There is a car park on the right, directly opposite the crag. The toilet is towards the river .. in the willows.

1.14.10. The Alcove 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.14.11. Motatapu 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.12. Phoebe Creek 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.14.13. Kai Whaka Pai Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

1.14.14. Farside 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.948205, -44.653674

Approach:

Park across from Roadside Attraction, follow the well defined track along the deer fence, keep going past The Alcove until the track leads you to Farside, can't miss it. 10-15min walk.

1.14.15. The Hangover 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.14.16. West Wanaka Scrabble wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.17. Top Boulder 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.18. Road End 0 routes in Area

1.14.19. Cattleyard Crag 0 routes in Area

1.14.20. Pencil Dick Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.14.21. Track Side 0 routes in Area

1.14.22. Jimmy Cliff 0 routes in Area

1.14.23. Delta View 0 routes in Area

1.14.24. The Engine Block 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.25. Mt Iron 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 169.169149, -44.689965

Description:

Generally derided by visitors this area isnt actually too bad. There are some hidden gems and the rock lends itself to slopers, interesting holds and moves. The rock can also be friable, dirty and covered in pigeon poo. Generally steep and away from the mountains it is often dry when all else is wet.

Approach:

Via the residential neighbourhood on the way to Alberttown or walk around the base of Mt Iron from near Puzzling World

1.14.26. Lakeside Boulder 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.14.27. Luggate Boulders 43 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.14.28. Hospital Flat Boulders 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.14.29. Glendhu Bay Boulders 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.14.30. Sharon Stone 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.14.31. Warm Leatherette Buttress 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.14.32. The Garden Bar 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.14.33. Whale watching wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

did through bracken then up old fixed rope to airy belay ledge

1.14.34. Bakehouse 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A good beginner to intermediate area with easy access

1.14.35. Icehouse 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Small shady cliff with a few nice climbs and good rock quality. It is a cool place to climb on hot day

1.15. Mount Aspiring National Park 2 routes in Feature

Summary:
All Alpine
Description:

Mount Aspiring

1.15.1. Plunketts Dome 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
Approach:

Approach via Dart / Rees Valley or Via Aspiring Hut

1.15.2. Mount French 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
Approach:

Access from French Ridge Hut. Approach from Colin Todd hut is across the Bonar Glacier

History:

Mount French was climbed by J.K. Inglis, A.E. Duncan and J.R. Murrell on 30 November 1914 [1]. Note that both the name and the date reported in the NZAC guidebook are incorrect [2]. On its first ascent, the mountain was baptized after Field Marshal John French, Commander of the British Expeditionary Force in the first World War, which was raging at the time [1]. It is ironical that John French should have a mountain named after him, since he suffered from a pathological fear of heights [3], and climbing would have been at the very bottom of his list of priorities.

A party of five, including H.F. Wright and H.E. Hodgkinson, left for a trip during which “they were 20 days absent from Dunedin, and there was not one day during that time fit for high climbing”. The party reached the Bonar via a new route to the left of French Ridge, probably making the first crossing of the Breakaway. After an aborted attempt on the NW ridge of Mount Aspiring, where they had to turn around near the top of the Ramp because of high winds, they crossed back over the Bonar and split into two groups. Wright and Hodgkinson claimed the virgin Mount Joffre, while the rest of the party climbed Mount French via the north-west ridge [1]. Wright refers to “first ascents of two peaks on either side of the Quarter Deck Saddle, which we named Joffre and French” [4]. It seems that he was confused about the actual location of the Quarterdeck, and that they were on the Breakaway instead.

The party returned down valley to Cameron Flat, then set off into the Matukituki River East Branch, over Albert Burn Saddle into the Albert Burn South Branch, down and up into the North Branch and over a pass west of Mt Twilight into the Wilkin River. The whole country between the East Matukituki and the Wilkin was previously unexplored [1].

1.16. Mount Aspiring 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Alpine

1.17. Pioneer hut 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Alpine, Unknown and Trad

1.17.1. Mt Conway 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.2. Humdinger 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.3. Mt Halcombe 1 route in Feature

Summary:
All Alpine
Description:

2659 m

Approach:

Cross Explorer Glacier

1.17.4. TV Slab 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Under Mount Allack

1.17.5. Glacier Peak 1 route in Feature

Summary:
All Alpine
Description:

3002 m

Approach:

up explorer glacier.