Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Southland 578 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 167.844634, -46.091084

1.1. Colac Bay 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: 167.920956, -46.360567

1.1.1. Octopus Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.2. Crayfish Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.3. Neptune Area 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder and Unknown

1.1.4. Pounamu Cove 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.1.5. The Teapot 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.6. Sick Haddock Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. Gable Rock 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.412270, -45.875916

Description:

!!! Hopefully getting more info on this Crag from the originators !!!

NO DOGS. Private land, leave gates as found, and take extreme care during lambing season. Cayford’s Track worth doing while in the area (1hr walk)

http://www.dipton.co.nz/

For information/status please contact: http://www.milliganseeds.co.nz/ (Landowner)

Approach:

From Dipton drive up Spirit Burn Rd, park at Cayford’s Track carpark, walk up to cliff via farm track. 20-30min walk.

History:

TBA

1.3. Castledowns 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.286325, -45.808550

Unique Features And Strengths:

Limestone routes with easy access.

Access Issues:

On private property. No access in lambing season. Atpresentno needto call ahead, but check nzac site for latest details.

Approach:

20 min drive from Lumsden via Dipton, or from Mossburn to castledown. Crag is road side. Enter fence (near toilet) through climbers gates.

1.3.1. North End Slabs 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.2. North End Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.3. Sycophrantic Arête 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.4. Politics Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.5. Gravitron Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 168.283261, -45.807052

1.3.6. Classic Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 168.282863, -45.807053

1.3.7. The Shelf 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.8. The Picnic Spot 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 168.282319, -45.807244

1.3.9. Bunny Gully 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.282221, -45.807447

1.3.10. Top Hat 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.11. The Hauler Area 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 168.282082, -45.807813

1.4. Fiordland 452 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 167.901185, -44.628402

1.4.1. The Chasm 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 167.947716, -44.727283

Unique Features And Strengths:

Stays dry in the rain. Better quality rock on right side of crag.

Description:
Approach:

5 minutes up usually wet creek beds. After exiting Homer tunnel, en route to Milford Sound there is a sign for "theChasm 400m". 50 m before this sign there is a small bridge. It is best to drive to the chasm car park, and visit it if you haven't. Then drive the 450m back towards the tunnel and pull of just after the small bridge on the left. One track on the Milford side of the bridge leads to the left wall. The other on the Homer side leads to the right crag. It is possible to walk between right and left sides along the base.

Ethic:

Used to be mixed climbing. There are still some excellent trad routes, however many mixed routes seem to be now fully bolted. Access rungs were placed in 2012 to provide quick access to the left side of the wall. Once on the wall it is rare to come to ground until the end of the day. However don't pee up there as it never washes away.

1.4.2. The Earl Mountains 21 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.3. Darran Mountains 361 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.4.4. Babylon 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.4.5. Little Babylon 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Keep going up hill above Babylon