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Table of contents

1. Tongariro National Park 158 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.576068, -39.224213

Description:

Tongariro National Park is located around three central mountain peaks Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngarahoe and Mt Tongariro. The climbing tends to be more adventurous due to its mountain environment.

There is sport and trad climbing in summer (or winter for the brave!) and alpine style routes for winter.

For the more adventurous, there are plenty of first ascents to be had on trad lines around the summits.

1.1. Mangatepopo Valley 136 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.607615, -39.145976

1.1.1. Tuwharetoa 51 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.599466, -39.149979

1.1.1.1. Lower Tier 37 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Baby Elephant 17 Unknown 40m
2 White Elephant 20 Unknown 40m
3 Glubetroil 16 Unknown 40m
4 Hanging Garden Chimney 12 Unknown 50m
5 Vegetated Crack 16 Unknown 35m
6 The Alliance 23 Unknown 35m
7 Under A Blood Red Sky 22 Unknown 37m
8 Wham, Bam, Thanks Saddam 18 Unknown 40m
9 Lic-Pa 12 Unknown 15m
10 Peapod 15 Unknown 15m
11 Thin Crack 16 Unknown 15m
12 Karitane Smiles 16 Unknown 15m
13 * Complan 16 Unknown 15m
14 Between The Lines 14 Unknown 20m
15 Up An At 'Em 16 Unknown 16m
16 Slap Arete 21 Unknown 15m
17 * Death Wall 13 Unknown 12m
18 * Ta-Lo 15 Unknown 20m
19 Big Sur 22 Unknown 20m
20 * Parc Lane 18 Unknown 15m
21 * Arnold Lane 16 Unknown 15m
22 One For Di 12 Unknown 10m
23 * White Sabbath

Completed in a snow storm to avoid loosing yet another route to marauding invaders.

FA: Ray Button & Stu Allan

17 Unknown 30m
24 Terrible Time 16 Unknown 40m
25 * 90 Degrees In My Shades 21 Unknown 30m
26 Big Greenie 15 Unknown 40m
27 Gossamer Groove 17 Unknown 40m
28 Vege Groove 15 Unknown 40m
29 * Jemmett's Jam Creek 17 Unknown 40m
30 Vee Groove 16 Unknown 40m
31 Grease Trap 14 Unknown 55m
32 Vee Grovel And Groovey 16 Unknown 55m
33 * Cirrus Minor 17 Unknown 50m
34 * Pow R Toc H 21 Unknown 20m
35 *** The Tempest 21 Unknown 50m
36 Powderfinger 22 Unknown
37 Grantchester Meadows 16 Unknown 40m
1.1.1.2. Upper Tier 14 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pig Bucket 14 Unknown 30m
2 Striptease 14 Unknown 30m
3 Symphony

the 1st route to break the defences.

FA: Ray Buton & Greame Dingle

18 Unknown 100m
4 Judge's Diagonal 16 Unknown 40m
5 Fuck Me Rigid 24 Unknown 40m
6 Unfinished Groove 17 Unknown 20m
7 * Pooh Corner 18 Unknown 75m
8 Arh 14 Unknown
9 Hand Traverse 17 Unknown 25m
10 Um 16 Unknown 20m
11 Ladybird Walk

FA: Ray Button; Ray Button/Keith Lawry

16 Unknown 20m
12 Dog's Hind Legs 15 Unknown 20m
13 Crankshaft Girdle 18 AID:A1 Aid 110m
14 Cavalino 13 Unknown 25m

1.1.2. Bomb Bay Cliff 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.604482, -39.149971

1.1.2.1. Lower Routes 9 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Full Metal Jacket 18 AID:A2 Aid 20m
2 Life, The Universe, And Everything 18 Unknown 110m
3 * Boulder Problems 22 Unknown 120m
4 * American Pie 17 Unknown 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 *** Bomb Arete

The obvious long arete visible from the Tongariro Crossing track. Start at the toe of the arete.

  1. 30m (14): Straight up the arete following hand and fist cracks until you reach a bulge, then make a delicate move left. Continue up to good belay ledge.

  2. 20m (16): Up and slightly left into a shallow corner split by a finger crack. Pull straight up through the middle of this then up through slabby ground to a belay.

  3. 60m (10): Up through very broken and sometimes loose terrain, tending left around a large block, then rightwards to finish up the gully at a full 60m rope length. Continue to scramble up and eastwards (toward the head of the Mangatepopo valley) to find the steep grassy gully you can scramble down (it's not the first gully). Be careful not to get bluffed.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1972

16 Trad 120m 3
6 Wainui Route 15 Unknown 30m
7 The Jolly Route 18 Unknown
8 Power And Corruption 21 Unknown 8m
9 * Lies And Deceit 19 Unknown 30m
1.1.2.2. Upper Routes 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Plum Duff 15 Unknown 30m
2 * Ginger Crunch 19 Unknown 30m
3 Racing Sardine 19 Unknown 30m
4 The Bomb 16 Unknown 30m
5 Dangerous Aquaintances 20 Unknown 25m

1.1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pull Now

FA: Greame Dingle & OPC students

13 Unknown 50m
2 Ray's Misty Climb

FA: Ray Button & Greame Dingle

18 Unknown 50m
3 Easy Day For A Hobbit

FA: Greame Dingle & Ray Button

16 Unknown 50m

1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gandalf 11 Unknown
2 Arete Of Despair 21 Unknown
3 Baggins 15 Unknown
4 Bilbo 14 Unknown
5 Shadowfax 12 Unknown
6 Modor 12 Unknown
7 Gollum 15 Unknown
8 Unclimbed Crack 16 Unknown
9 Frodo 10 Unknown
10 Hobbit Hill Slab 10 Unknown
11 Easy Gully 4 Unknown
12 Rivendell Slab 9 to 14 Unknown

1.1.5. Tainui Cliff 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jim's Gully 14 Unknown 40m

1.1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aqualung

FA: Brian Staite

12 Unknown 8m

1.1.7. Armchair Theatre 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Piker

FA: Ray Button

8 Unknown
2 The Gallery

FA: Ray Button

8 Unknown
3 Hangman

FA: Ray Button

14 Unknown
4 The Gallows

FA: Ray Button

15 Unknown
5 Fly

FA: Ray Button

10 Unknown
6 Fly Direct

FA: Ray Button

12 Unknown
7 Cleavage 14 Unknown
8 Reach For The Sky

FA: Ray Button

13 Unknown
9 Orangutang

FA: Ray Button

14 Unknown
10 Blindman's Bluff

FA: Tony Parker

8 Unknown

1.1.8. Hotu Cliffs 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
1.1.8.1. West Wing 11 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Shrinker 14 Unknown 15m
2 Tender Touch

FA: Ray Button, 1983

18 Unknown 15m
3 * Cioch 14 Unknown 70m
4 Not Feasybull 18 Unknown 15m
5 Mad Movies AID:A3 Aid 15m
6 Blood 14 Unknown 15m
7 Just Feasybull 12 Unknown 15m
8 Potrezebie Left 12 Unknown 15m
9 Potrezebie 12 Unknown 15m
10 Potrezebie Right 9 Unknown 15m
11 Cleft Chimney 13 Unknown 10m
1.1.8.2. East Wing 7 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ringatu 11 Unknown 15m
2 Ringatu Direct 15 Unknown 15m
3 Swerv 17 AID:A2 Aid 15m
4 Swing 17 Unknown 15m
5 Tuhoe 14 Unknown 20m
6 Te Kooti 17 Unknown 15m
7 The Tumbler 16 Unknown 10m

1.1.9. Te Arawa Cliffs 25 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left 12 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Futtichs End 8 Unknown
2 No Sweat 12 Unknown
3 Pinnochio 15 Unknown
4 Guts 16 Unknown
5 Sweat 10 Unknown
6 Tears 11 Unknown
7 Jam Butties 16 Unknown
8 Debbie's Dilemma Direct 16 Unknown
9 Debbie's Dilemma 11 Unknown
10 Snot 12 Unknown
11 Super Snot 14 Unknown
12 Sweeney 12 Unknown
1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right 13 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Final Examinations 15 Unknown
2 Shit Route 15 Unknown
3 Wild Colonial Boy

FA: Ray Button

16 Unknown
4 Blue Bottle 15 Unknown
5 Grip Pipe Thin 14 Unknown
6 Garden Path 13 Unknown
7 Wall Of Shadows 16 Unknown
8 R.I.P. 13 Unknown
9 Heavy Breathing 15 Unknown
10 Doug and Ding's Climb 16 Unknown
11 Elfingrotto 10 Unknown
12 * Magical Mystery Tour 14 Unknown
13 Dilemma 12 Unknown

1.1.10. Mt Tongariro Cliffs 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
1.1.10.1. South Crater Ridge Left 1 route in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Knickers 15 Unknown

1.2. Tawhitikuri Valley 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.1. Left Bank Cliff 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tawhitikuri

FA: Marty Beare

22 Unknown 15m

1.3. Mt Ruapehu 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.581017, -39.281288

1.3.1. Whakapapa Gorge 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 175.561494, -39.235145

Description:

Sideways columnar basalt, 15 minutes walk from the skifield car park

Approach:

Walk east from the Top of the Bruce toward Meads Wall, turn left up the ridge, continuing along a vague track. Stay to the left of the cliff top and walk down the slope to the end of the bluff, turn right and walk back up the valley along the base of the cliff.

Where To Stay:

Nearest accommodation is at Whakapapa Village.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trenchtown 10 Trad 40m 2
2 Authorised Rockers 16 Trad 35m
3 ** Chocolate Coated Mammaries

FA: Paul Rogers

22 Sport 15m, 6
4 ** Serial Pillar

The clean pillar left of the water streak, move right at the top.

FA: Paul Rogers

18 Sport 20m, 5
5 Kathleen's Back

Climb an easy ramp leftwards then up a flake, traverse right along a ledge to reach the obvious chimney. Sling the chockstone and go for it. Exit left at the top.

FA: Angel Vila, Kathleen Lee, 2004

15 Trad 35m

1.3.2. Ruapehu Crag 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tawhitikuri 13 Unknown 25m
2 Acid Rock 14 Unknown 20m
3 Acid Drop 16 Unknown 20m

1.3.3. White Falls 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

The steepest crag in New Zealand, averaging over 50 degrees

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Spider

FA: John Palmer, 2009

26 Sport
2 Mansard Roof

FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012

30 Sport
3 Crag Vultures

FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012

31 Sport
4 Civil Unrest

FA: Craig Houston, 2013

30 Sport
5 The Coriolis Effect

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011

29 Sport
6 First Breath after a Coma

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2012

30 Sport
7 Retaillack

FA: Kristen Foley, 2012

28 Sport
8 Krakatoa

FA: Kristen Foley, 2010

{US} AU:26 Sport
9 Gastonberry

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011

29 Sport
10 Snake Oil

FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012

30 Sport
11 Burning Man

FA: Jonathon Clearwater, 2011

30 Sport
12 Koha

FA: Ewan Sinclair, 2011

27 Sport
13 The Wraith

FA: Adam Steens, 2012

{US} AU:28 Sport

1.4. Oturere Valley 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Easy Gully Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
8 Blindman's Bluff Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Piker Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
The Gallery Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Futtichs End Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
9 Potrezebie Right Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
10 Frodo Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
Hobbit Hill Slab Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
Fly Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Sweat Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Elfingrotto Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Trenchtown Trad 40m 2 1.3.1. Whakapapa Gorge
11 Gandalf Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
* Ringatu Unknown 15m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
Debbie's Dilemma Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Tears Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
12 Hanging Garden Chimney Unknown 50m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Lic-Pa Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
One For Di Unknown 10m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Modor Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
Shadowfax Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
Aqualung Unknown 8m 1.1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall
Fly Direct Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Just Feasybull Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
Potrezebie Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
Potrezebie Left Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
No Sweat Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Snot Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Sweeney Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Dilemma Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
13 * Death Wall Unknown 12m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Cavalino Unknown 25m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Pull Now Unknown 50m 1.1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress
Reach For The Sky Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Cleft Chimney Unknown 10m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
Garden Path Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
R.I.P. Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Tawhitikuri Unknown 25m 1.3.2. Ruapehu Crag
9 to 14 Rivendell Slab Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
14 Between The Lines Unknown 20m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Grease Trap Unknown 55m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Arh Unknown 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Pig Bucket Unknown 30m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Striptease Unknown 30m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Bilbo Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
Jim's Gully Unknown 40m 1.1.5. Tainui Cliff
Cleavage Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Hangman Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Orangutang Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Blood Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
* Cioch Unknown 70m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
The Shrinker Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
Tuhoe Unknown 20m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
Super Snot Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Grip Pipe Thin Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
* Magical Mystery Tour Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Acid Rock Unknown 20m 1.3.2. Ruapehu Crag
15 Big Greenie Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Peapod Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Ta-Lo Unknown 20m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Vege Groove Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Dog's Hind Legs Unknown 20m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Wainui Route Unknown 30m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
Plum Duff Unknown 30m 1.1.2.2. Upper Routes
Baggins Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
Gollum Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
The Gallows Unknown 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre
Ringatu Direct Unknown 15m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
Pinnochio Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Blue Bottle Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Final Examinations Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Heavy Breathing Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Shit Route Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Knickers Unknown 1.1.10.1. South Crater Ridge Left
Kathleen's Back Trad 35m 1.3.1. Whakapapa Gorge
16 * Arnold Lane Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Complan Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Glubetroil Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Grantchester Meadows Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Karitane Smiles Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Terrible Time Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Thin Crack Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Up An At 'Em Unknown 16m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Vee Groove Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Vee Grovel And Groovey Unknown 55m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Vegetated Crack Unknown 35m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Judge's Diagonal Unknown 40m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Ladybird Walk Unknown 20m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Um Unknown 20m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
*** Bomb Arete Trad 120m 3 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
The Bomb Unknown 30m 1.1.2.2. Upper Routes
Easy Day For A Hobbit Unknown 50m 1.1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress
Unclimbed Crack Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
The Tumbler Unknown 10m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
Debbie's Dilemma Direct Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Guts Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Jam Butties Unknown 1.1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
Doug and Ding's Climb Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Wall Of Shadows Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Wild Colonial Boy Unknown 1.1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
Authorised Rockers Trad 35m 1.3.1. Whakapapa Gorge
Acid Drop Unknown 20m 1.3.2. Ruapehu Crag
17 Baby Elephant Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Cirrus Minor Unknown 50m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Gossamer Groove Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Jemmett's Jam Creek Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* White Sabbath Unknown 30m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Hand Traverse Unknown 25m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Unfinished Groove Unknown 20m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* American Pie Unknown 30m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
Swing Unknown 15m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
Te Kooti Unknown 15m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
17 A2 Swerv Aid 15m 1.1.8.2. East Wing
18 * Parc Lane Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Wham, Bam, Thanks Saddam Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Pooh Corner Unknown 75m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Symphony Unknown 100m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Life, The Universe, And Everything Unknown 110m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
The Jolly Route Unknown 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
Ray's Misty Climb Unknown 50m 1.1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress
Not Feasybull Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
Tender Touch Unknown 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing
** Serial Pillar Sport 20m, 5 1.3.1. Whakapapa Gorge
18 A1 Crankshaft Girdle Aid 110m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
18 A2 Full Metal Jacket Aid 20m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
19 * Lies And Deceit Unknown 30m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
* Ginger Crunch Unknown 30m 1.1.2.2. Upper Routes
Racing Sardine Unknown 30m 1.1.2.2. Upper Routes
20 White Elephant Unknown 40m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Dangerous Aquaintances Unknown 25m 1.1.2.2. Upper Routes
21 * 90 Degrees In My Shades Unknown 30m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Pow R Toc H Unknown 20m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Slap Arete Unknown 15m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
*** The Tempest Unknown 50m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Power And Corruption Unknown 8m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
Arete Of Despair Unknown 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag
22 Big Sur Unknown 20m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Powderfinger Unknown 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
Under A Blood Red Sky Unknown 37m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
* Boulder Problems Unknown 120m 1.1.2.1. Lower Routes
Tawhitikuri Unknown 15m 1.2.1. Left Bank Cliff
** Chocolate Coated Mammaries Sport 15m, 6 1.3.1. Whakapapa Gorge
23 The Alliance Unknown 35m 1.1.1.1. Lower Tier
24 Fuck Me Rigid Unknown 40m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
26 Krakatoa Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
The Spider Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
27 Koha Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
28 Retaillack Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
The Wraith Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
29 Gastonberry Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
The Coriolis Effect Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
30 Burning Man Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
Civil Unrest Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
First Breath after a Coma Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
Mansard Roof Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
Snake Oil Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
31 Crag Vultures Sport 1.3.3. White Falls
A3 Mad Movies Aid 15m 1.1.8.1. West Wing