Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.
Table of contents
- 1.
Tongariro National Park
453 in Region
-
1.1.
Mangatepopo Valley 136 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Tuwharetoa 51 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. Bomb Bay Cliff 14 in Cliff
- 1.1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress 3 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag 12 in Cliff
- 1.1.5. Tainui Cliff 1 in Cliff
- 1.1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall 1 in Cliff
- 1.1.7. Armchair Theatre 10 in Cliff
- 1.1.8. Hotu Cliffs 18 in Cliff
- 1.1.9. Te Arawa Cliffs 25 in Cliff
- 1.1.10. Mt Tongariro Cliffs 1 in Cliff
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1.2.
Mt Ruapehu 314 in Region
- 1.2.1. Whakapapa Gorge 61 in Crag
- 1.2.2. Mead's Wall 34 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Ruapehu Crag / Pehi's Bluff 21 in Crag
- 1.2.4. Tūroa 5 in Area
- 1.2.5. Tukino 147 in Area
- 1.2.6. White Falls 26 in Crag
- 1.2.7. The Pinnacles 14 in Area
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1.3.
Tawhitikuri Valley 1 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Left Bank Cliff 1 in Cliff
-
1.4.
Oturere Valley 2 in Field
- 1.4.1. Oturere Stream Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.4.2. Dead Stream Boulder 1 in Boulder
-
1.1.
Mangatepopo Valley 136 in Crag
1. Tongariro National Park 453 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -39.227000, 175.581500
description
Tongariro National Park is located around three central mountain peaks Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngarahoe and Mt Tongariro. The climbing tends to be more adventurous due to its mountain environment.
There is sport and trad climbing in summer (or winter for the brave!) and alpine style routes for winter.
For the more adventurous, there are plenty of first ascents to be had on trad lines around the summits.
1.1. Mangatepopo Valley 136 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.145976, 175.607615
summary
Great number of long quality trad routes on solid rock with good access.
access issues
A 4 hour parking restriction is in place at the Mangatepopo carpark during the Great Walk season, from the beginning of Labour weekend until 30 April. Parking exemptions can be obtained by visiting the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.
approach
30-45 mins
where to stay
Mangatepopo Hut - 30 mins from the carpark and close to the cliffs. Require bookings during the Great Walk Season.
1.1.1. Tuwharetoa 51 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -39.149979, 175.599466
1.1.2. Bomb Bay Cliff 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.149971, 175.604482
approach
At the first intersection of Great Walk tracks there will be an unmarked track near some infographic signs. Then follow the stream bed passing under the cliffs until you reach a large rock with a cairn. Then take the track to the base of Bomb Arete.
descent notes
Steep grassy gully east of Bomb Bay Cliff.
1.1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
1.1.4. Middle Earth Crag 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
1.1.5. Tainui Cliff 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.7. Armchair Theatre 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
1.1.8. Hotu Cliffs 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
1.1.9. Te Arawa Cliffs 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
1.1.10. Mt Tongariro Cliffs 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.2. Mt Ruapehu 314 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -39.281448, 175.590590
description
At 2797m, the broad massif of Mt Ruapehu dominates the North Island's central plateau. This is an active volcano, and eruptions still occur, occasionally without warning.
In the summer, Mt Ruapehu hosts popular sport climbing crags like White Falls, Whakapapa Gorge, Meads Wall, The Wall of Sound and Tukino. In contrast, once the snow and ice come in the winter, it becomes a playground for mountaineers and alpinists with routes ranging from walks to the summit plateau to ice, mixed and dry tooling routes.
Mt Ruapehu is an all-around climbing destination with something for everyone.
approach
Approaches can range from a 5-minute stroll to multi-hour walks high up the mountain. Generally, the rock climbing crags have a shorter approach than the winter climbing destinations.
where to stay
There are multiple lodges on the mountain at the various ski fields (Whakapapa and Tukino). Otherwise, the surrounding towns like National Park, Ohakune, Waiuru, Turangi and Taupo can be great places to base yourself.
1.2.1. Whakapapa Gorge 61 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: -39.233120, 175.560912
description
Andesite, giving the appearance of sideways columnar basalt, 20 minutes walk from the skifield car park.
approach
Walk east from the Top of the Bruce toward Meads Wall, turn left up the ridge, continuing along a vague track. Stay to the left of the cliff top and walk down the slope to the end of the bluff, turn right and walk back up the valley along the base of the cliff.
where to stay
Nearest accommodation is at Whakapapa Village.
1.2.2. Mead's Wall 34 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.236352, 175.561349
summary
Previously a purely trad crag, on the first weekend of May 2019 a team from the nearby Hillary Outdoors School of Outdoor Education bolted most of the routes on the west side of this crag.
description
The west side of the crag has good quality volcanic rock, with 8 sport climbs - more if you count the multi pitch, ranging in grade from about 15 to low 20s (Ewbank) - and many trad routes in between the sport climbs. Climbs range in height from about 14 metres to about 20 metres. As of December 2019 no information could be found about grades or names so a team of us climbed them all and discussed the grades. All grades and names are temporary until someone comes up with some better information, please feel free to adjust the grades if they do not match up. Climbs have been named and graded from left to right. The west side gets the afternoon sun. Wet moss growing on all the narrow ledges, and in all the cracks where you are hoping to get good finger grips, is the norm at this crag. Get used to it! In spite of this, the climbing is good. The east side is longer, is in the sun in the morning and currently has 16 recorded routes. The rock is similar to the west side with the routes being generally more sustained. Strongly recommended to wear a helmet and be careful what you pull on, there is a fair amount of loose rock due to the freeze and thaw.
access issues
Covered in snow during winter.
approach
Drive to the top carpark at the end of the Bruce Road to the Whakapapa Ski field. You should be able to see the wall from the carpark by looking towards the top of the "Happy Valley". Walk towards the Sky Waka (Gondola), where you will see a sign which says "Meads Wall Walk. Walk underneath the Sky Waka Station, veering left until you see a wide rocky track. The Mead's Wall is about two hundred metres ahead. To reach the back of Meads, you can walk up the left side of the wall, and look for bolts of Flatulent propulsion just over the lip to abseil off, or scramble down the Gulley to the left. If abseiling in from the 'Not Quite Dolly' end, the abseil is just over 30m (about 31m) but there is a set of anchors 1/3 of the way up NQD if you have a shorter rope.
where to stay
Whakapapa Holiday Park
1.2.3. Ruapehu Crag 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.244613, 175.541688
Walking as the crow flys from the ski field huts across the old lava flows however this is rough going and no formed track.
The alternative is to take the Whakapapaiti Valley Track from the scoria flats carpark until it starts zigzagging up the slope. From there head up the valley on your right until you reach the base of the climb.
summary
Lower grade crack climbing and a few easy boulders.
description
The closest to "crack" climbing you will find in the lower north island this area isn't climbed much so be prepared to be digging out placements.
A trad only crag it has heaps of opportunity to place gear. There are no bolted anchors so if you are going to top rope bring at least 20 meters of cordellette or second rope for anchor building around rocks at the top. Access for building anchors can be had from either end of the ridge line or by scrambling up garbage gulley.
The rock is solid and the crag has a really peaceful atmosphere with great views. It is quite exposed to the wind however so be prepared for the weather to change.
access issues
None
approach
The bluff can be seen from the Whakapapa Ski Field Carpark. It's the prominent ridge line to the southwest on the horizon. 60 - 90 minutes south of Whakapapa it can be reached in one of two ways.
where to stay
Realistically there is only about a days worth of climbing at the site but if you do want to stay closer than the village then Whakapapaiti Hut is closer, probably 30 mins walk.
ethic
Clean up after yourself.
history
First climbed by Stu Allen in the 70's this area has been used by OPC for instructing. It is named after a Whanganui Cheif by the name of Pehi Turoa who frequenty visited the area in the early 1900's.
1.2.4. Tūroa 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: -39.304302, 175.536033
summary
Based on the Southern side of Mt Ruapehu, the Tūroa skifield offers both easily accessible ice climbing routes and ways to access winter climbing routes on Tahurangi and Girdlestone.
where to stay
The closest place to stay is down at Ohakune, where multiple hotels and backpackers are available.
1.2.5. Tukino 147 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -39.278062, 175.625458
summary
Various cliffs and crags easily accessible from the Tukino Ski Lodge.
description
Check Climb NZ for better info: https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino
where to stay
The Tukino Alpine Ski Club lodge has been the main accommodation option for climbers based out of Tukino, but the Aorangi and Desert Alpine ski club lodges could also work.
1.2.6. White Falls 26 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -39.297558, 175.523450
summary
The steepest crag in New Zealand, averaging over 50 degrees
approach
The closest place to stay is down at Ohakune, where multiple hotels and backpackers are available.
1.2.7. The Pinnacles 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Ice climbing
Lat / Long: -39.250800, 175.568974
summary
Pinnacles ice and mixed climbs
description
Winter routes on the Pinnacles.
approach
Between 30 and 45 minutes to the base of routes via hut flat and Broken Leg Gully
1.3. Tawhitikuri Valley 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.1. Left Bank Cliff 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
1.4. Oturere Valley 2 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.157921, 175.683541
description
Most untouched bouldering field in the country. Usual National Park rules apply: https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/central-north-island/places/tongariro-national-park/
approach
Approx. 5 Hour Hike (14.5km) in from Desert Road via Waihohonu Hut. Similar distance from Ketetahi Carpark, but takes a bit longer due to steeper gradient.
history
Not much information regarding bouldering in the Oturere Valley. Only mentioned briefly in "Tongariro, a Guide for Climbers and Ski-mountaineers" by Richard Thompson. Further Information can be found in Allan Carpenters Video from 2019: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXC3Scjo5xw
1.4.1. Oturere Stream Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.165230, 175.684529
description
This Boulder is at the edge of the cliff leading down to the Oturere Stream crossing, where the track leads into the Rangipo Desert.
approach
1km from Oturere hut walking towards Waihohonu Hut.
history
Boulder established on 13/09/2020
1.4.2. Dead Stream Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.161223, 175.686171
description
Nice Boulder with sharp holds
approach
300m from Oturere hut walking towards Waihohonu Hut. Go down into the old, dried up riverbed and cross it. As you come up to the other side, look to your right and the boulder should be right there.
history
Established 13/09/2020