A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy


Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:


The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Lake Waipapa 73 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.686815, -38.292046

1.1. Main Cliff 45 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Top Rope

1.1.1. Far Left Wall 4 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Wall on the far left at the end of the track


Walk left from the main cliff through a little gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Untitled

Up the short left-facing corner to the roof, then the face above. Not so easy if you can't layback...

FA: Bryce Martin

17 Sport
2 Utopia

FA: Jamie Baron

{US} AU:26 Sport 20m
3 Immortality

FA: Jamie Baron

{US} AU:28 Sport 20m
4 ** Honey Bee

Mantle the low ledge then head up and across the slab to corner. Transition from corner to face then climb the face to the belay.

FA: Jamie Baron

{US} AU:18 Sport 25m

1.1.2. Millenium Wall 9 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sex Kitten

Climb the bulges to the ledge. Crux is the steep bulge about the ledge. Then progresses through easier ground to a steep finish on large holds.

FA: David Hood

{US} AU:24 Sport 28m
2 * Super C Ellery

Start up 'RotoVegas' then veer left up the face. Sequency with a powerful finish.

FA: Dave Hood, Martyn Owen, 2001

{US} AU:26 Mixed 30m, 6
3 * RotoVegas

Start in short corner crack, veer left into right crack. Cruxes are at bolts.

FA: Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin, 2001

{US} AU:25 Mixed 30m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Millenium Madness

Obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around both of the roofs to the belay.

FA: Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt, Jo McMurray, 2000

18 Trad 15m
5 Mid Year Madness

The continuation of 'Millennium Madness'. Climb through the roof with good hold on the lip. follow thin crack and arete to tree belay at the top.

FA: Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, 2000

24 Mixed 25m, 2
6 ** Sun Dried Tomatoes

Follow the bolts right, then head straight up at the third bolt.

FA: Martyn Owen, Nick Adams, 2000

22 Sport 15m, 5
7 Ring Them Bells

Clear line following the bolts.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2000

17 Sport 15m, 6
8 Dogs Breakfast

Most right hand line of bolts. Climb the arete.

FA: Andrew Whitmore, 2003

18 Sport 17m, 7
9 Madness direct

The thin seam to the right of the corner. A bit of a squeeze route but some nice fingers moves

20 Top rope 15m

1.1.3. The Arch 9 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Seattle Rain

Balancy moves to the crack. Step out into the overhand and mantle into the ledge of the first belay of 'Mortality'

FA: Kelly Cudworth & Bryce Martin, 2002

22 Sport 8m, 5
2 * Popeye

Pitch 1 [23, 13m, 5 bolts]: Climb wall and arete. Easier after 3rd bolt and moves left at 5th bolt to belay.

Pitch 2 [22, 17m, 6 bolts]: Follow 'Mortality' till 2nd bolt then move right onto slab. Follow slab to roof. Gain large hold then easy climbing leads to final belay of 'Mortality'.

Climbing with half or two ropes advised as it can then be done in a single pitch. Still large amounts of drag if done in two pitches on a single.

FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore, Florian Baffie, 2000

23 Sport 30m 2, 11
3 * Mortality

Pitch 1 [17, 15m, 6 bolts]: Climb to the 4th bolt of 'The Arches'. Traverse left past 2 bolts and onto belay past next arete.

Pitch 2 [22, 16m, 7 bolts]: Climb straight up the slab past 3 bolts to the large flake. Follow right side of flake to groove above. Follow groove to belay.

FA: Kevin Barratt and Jan Wasey, 2001

22 Sport 31m 2, 13
4 *** The Arches

Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2000

18 Sport 35m, 13
5 ** Gauche mais pas Maladroit

Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof.

FA: Nick Adams, Florian Baffie, 2000

18 Sport 20m, 10
6 Three Steps to Heaven

Line directly below the finish of 'The Arches'. Tricky moves at many bolts. With a heart-breaker mantle finish.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2001

26 Sport 25m, 8
7 Ben’s Big Day Out

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

FA: Martyn Owen , Andrew Whitmore, Ben Owen, 2001

20 Mixed 22m, 3
8 * Fingers Crossed

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

FA: Richard Knott, 2000

22 Mixed 25m, 4
9 Game of Two Halves

Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay.

FA: Marytn Owen, Fran Louder, 2002

27 Sport 25m, 9

1.1.4. Wall of Fate 23 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Root

FA: DaveGarrity,CraigMartin,ElsieLemordant, 2000

18 Trad 25m
2 * No Country For Young Men

An adventure. Up and right from the start of The Root, then a committed move rightwards will establish you in the wide groove (crux). Jam your way up the crack to the pine tree, sling it, then climb the right side of the tree until you can regain the rock. Continue up past the next tree following the right-hand crack system (don't escape left to The Root anchors), until you reach a single bolt just below the DBC anchor. Take a wide range of cams, nuts and slings. You can rap off on a 60m rope.

FFA: Bryce Martin

18 Mixed 33m, 1
3 * Billy Bold

FA: Bryce Martin, Craig Martin, 2000

17 Trad 12m
4 ** Quarry Climbing 19 Mixed 12m, 2
5 * Real Rock 21 Mixed 25m, 2
6 Sidewinder 18 Mixed 22m, 4
7 Penny Lane 19 Trad 25m
8 * Finger of Fate 17 Trad 25m 2
9 * Perfect Light 21 Mixed 25m, 5
10 * Lats Rule Thinking 23 Mixed 30m, 9
11 * Scavenger 24 Mixed 30m, 9
12 ** Robin 23 Sport 18m, 7
13 * Batman 27 Sport 18m, 6
14 * Theropod 27 Sport 18m
15 Fossil Free Zone 23 Sport 18m
16 * Name Game 21 Sport 20m, 7
17 * Lock 'n' Load 24 Sport 10m, 4
18 Lock 'n' Rock 25 Sport 10m, 5
19 Stealing Dad's Rack 17 Trad 15m
20 Its Not the Size 20 Sport 9m, 3
21 * Grit Pike Thin 19 Trad 15m
22 Forever 22 in the Gym 18 Trad 15m
23 Natural Progression 25 Sport 15m

1.2. Galaxy Wall 17 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doing it at Dawn 24 Sport 20m
2 No Country for Old Men 24 Sport 20m
3 Easy Lay 22 Trad 20m
4 Hands Christian 23 Sport 20m
5 Big Bird

Once you climb it you wont criticize the number of bolts.

18 Sport 20m
6 Defiance 23 Sport 25m, 8
7 Desperation 26 Sport 25m
8 Short n Sweet 17 Trad 10m
9 Dani 20 Trad 10m
10 Hybrid Heavin 19 Mixed 20m, 2
11 Handsome Julio

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

24 Sport 20m
12 Handsome Julio Direct 28 Sport 20m
13 Baby Driver

The bolted line up the arete takes a few interesting twists and turns, has more than one crux and will keep you thinking if this is about your grade. Deserves a star.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

16 Sport 20m
14 ** Star Gazer

Up the left face and into the overhung corner to gain the ledge, then easier climbing to the belay. Cams or wires may be useful between the 3rd and 4th bolt. First ascent was without the 2nd bolt.

FA: Richard Knott, 2001

18 Sport 18m, 5
15 * Galaxy Grovel

FA: Richard Knott, 2001

21 Sport 15m, 4
16 Twinkle Twinkle

Traverse from far right up a series of ledges to the belay of Galaxy Grovel.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2011

14 Sport 20m
17 TE6A 20 Sport 20m, 5

1.3. Pipeline Wall 5 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Down river of the dam, the track intersects with this cliff face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Millennium Ways {US} AU:19 Trad 10m
2 Carless Days {US} AU:19 Mixed 10m, 2
3 The Grimm Reaper {US} AU:19 Trad 18m
4 Wiggle Wiggle {US} AU:20 Trad 30m
5 ** Synergy {US} AU:20 Trad 28m

1.4. Crack Wall 0 routes in Cliff



1.5. The Car Park Wall 3 routes in Area

All Unknown

There is NO climbing on the cliffs near the car park or power station. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on these cliffs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rays Crack 23 Unknown 15m
2 Birthday Girl 13 Unknown 15m
3 Pretty in Pink 15 Unknown 15m

1.6. Lakeside Wall 1 route in Area

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Industrial Action 22 Unknown 22m

1.7. Graemes' Wall 2 routes in Cliff

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fallen Angel {FR} AU:17 Unknown 25m
2 Harvey The Wallbanger 21 Unknown 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 Birthday Girl Unknown 15m 1.5. The Car Park Wall
14 Twinkle Twinkle Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
15 Pretty in Pink Unknown 15m 1.5. The Car Park Wall
16 Baby Driver Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
17 Untitled Sport 1.1.1. Far Left Wall
Ring Them Bells Sport 15m, 6 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
* Billy Bold Trad 12m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Finger of Fate Trad 25m 2 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Stealing Dad's Rack Trad 15m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Short n Sweet Trad 10m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Fallen Angel Unknown 25m 1.7. Graemes' Wall
18 ** Honey Bee Sport 25m 1.1.1. Far Left Wall
Dogs Breakfast Sport 17m, 7 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
*** Millenium Madness Trad 15m 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
** Gauche mais pas Maladroit Sport 20m, 10 1.1.3. The Arch
*** The Arches Sport 35m, 13 1.1.3. The Arch
Forever 22 in the Gym Trad 15m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* No Country For Young Men Mixed 33m, 1 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Sidewinder Mixed 22m, 4 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
The Root Trad 25m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Big Bird Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
** Star Gazer Sport 18m, 5 1.2. Galaxy Wall
19 * Grit Pike Thin Trad 15m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Penny Lane Trad 25m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
** Quarry Climbing Mixed 12m, 2 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Hybrid Heavin Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Carless Days Mixed 10m, 2 1.3. Pipeline Wall
* Millennium Ways Trad 10m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
The Grimm Reaper Trad 18m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
20 Madness direct Top rope 15m 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Ben’s Big Day Out Mixed 22m, 3 1.1.3. The Arch
Its Not the Size Sport 9m, 3 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Dani Trad 10m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
TE6A Sport 20m, 5 1.2. Galaxy Wall
** Synergy Trad 28m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
Wiggle Wiggle Trad 30m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
21 * Name Game Sport 20m, 7 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Perfect Light Mixed 25m, 5 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Real Rock Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Galaxy Grovel Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Harvey The Wallbanger Unknown 20m 1.7. Graemes' Wall
22 ** Sun Dried Tomatoes Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
* Fingers Crossed Mixed 25m, 4 1.1.3. The Arch
* Mortality Sport 31m 2, 13 1.1.3. The Arch
* Seattle Rain Sport 8m, 5 1.1.3. The Arch
Easy Lay Trad 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
*** Industrial Action Unknown 22m 1.6. Lakeside Wall
23 * Popeye Sport 30m 2, 11 1.1.3. The Arch
Fossil Free Zone Sport 18m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Lats Rule Thinking Mixed 30m, 9 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
** Robin Sport 18m, 7 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Defiance Sport 25m, 8 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Hands Christian Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Rays Crack Unknown 15m 1.5. The Car Park Wall
24 Mid Year Madness Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Sex Kitten Sport 28m 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
* Lock 'n' Load Sport 10m, 4 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Scavenger Mixed 30m, 9 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Doing it at Dawn Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Handsome Julio Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
No Country for Old Men Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
25 * RotoVegas Mixed 30m, 2 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Lock 'n' Rock Sport 10m, 5 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Natural Progression Sport 15m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
26 Utopia Sport 20m 1.1.1. Far Left Wall
* Super C Ellery Mixed 30m, 6 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Three Steps to Heaven Sport 25m, 8 1.1.3. The Arch
Desperation Sport 25m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
27 Game of Two Halves Sport 25m, 9 1.1.3. The Arch
* Batman Sport 18m, 6 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Theropod Sport 18m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
28 Immortality Sport 20m 1.1.1. Far Left Wall
Handsome Julio Direct Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall