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Table of contents

1. Waipapa 80 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.686815, -38.292046

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome technical climbing on superb rock. Mainly sport with some trad lines as well.


Slab, roofs, bulges, cracks or face climbing. Waipapa has it all.

Access Issues:

Pipeline Wall, Cracks Wall, Lakeside Wall and Carpark Wall are currently CLOSED for climbing. Do not climb on these cliffs.


Drive towards Mangakino from Wharepapa South for about 20 minutes. Park at the dam.

1.1. Main Cliff 52 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 175.687756, -38.285864


Walls of fully welded ignimbrite lend themselves to interesting and technical climbing. The walls are often less than vertical with cracks, bulges and small roofs thrown in to keep you interested. Most routes are bolted but there are also a number of mid range graded trad routes.


Park at the Waipapa Dam. Walk down stream along the road from the locked gate. Head left along a gravel track after 200m. Head downstream on the mountain bike track until just before the track heads right away from the river. Take the rough track up the hill away from the river. Step left over the log after 20m. Follow this track it brings you out at the right hand end of Wall of Fate. Head left for Millennium Wall and Right for Galaxy Wall.

1.1.1. Metaphysical Wall 5 routes in Sector

All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.688196, -38.285659


This is the furthest wall along the track. It is home to a few of the newer hard climbs at Wiapapa.


Walk left from the main cliff down through a little gully with a rope ladder. Wall is about 30m past this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Untitled

Up the short left-facing corner to the roof, then the face above. Not so easy if you can't layback...

FA: Bryce Martin

17 Sport
2 * Utopia

The left leaning groove/corner feature with tenuous moves that keep you thinking.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

26 Sport 20m, 12
3 * Immortality

Up the blank and rounded arete. This leads to a rest and then another crux on the steeper wall above.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

26 Sport 20m, 10
4 Valhalla

Start up the corner right of Immortality. Stroll up to the bulge. Up through tricky steep section(crux). Sustained climbing to the anchor.

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2012

28 Sport 20m, 10
5 ** Honey Bee

Mantle the low ledge then head up and across the slab to corner. Transition from corner to face then climb the face to the belay.

FA: Jamie Baron

{US} AU:18 Sport 25m

1.1.2. Millenium Wall 10 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 175.687994, -38.285780


Moderately graded routes in a well established area.


Walk left along the track until you reach a flat open area before a rope bridge. Stop here. You are at the base of Sex Kitten.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sex Kitten

Climb the bulges to the ledge. Crux is the steep bulge about the ledge. Then progresses through easier ground to a steep finish on large holds.

FA: David Hood

Sport 28m
2 * Super C Ellery

Start up 'RotoVegas' then veer left up the face. Sequency with a powerful finish.

FA: Dave Hood, Martyn Owen, 2001

{US} AU:26 Mixed 30m, 6
3 * RotoVegas

Start in short corner crack, veer left into right crack. Cruxes are at bolts.

FA: Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin, 2001

25 Mixed 30m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Millenium Madness

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

FA: Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt, Jo McMurray, 2000

18 Trad 15m
5 The Nothing

Start up Millennium Madness then continue straight up the thin seam. Head right through the roof and headwall.

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013

30 Sport 12m, 5
6 Mid Year Madness

The continuation of 'Millennium Madness'. Climb through the roof with good hold on the lip. follow thin crack and arete to tree belay at the top.

FA: Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, 2000

24 Mixed 25m, 2
7 Madness direct

The thin seam to the right of the corner. A bit of a squeeze route but some nice fingers moves

20 Top rope 15m
8 ** Sun Dried Tomatoes

Follow the bolts right, then head straight up at the third bolt.

FA: Martyn Owen, Nick Adams, 2000

22 Sport 15m, 5
9 Ring Them Bells

Clear line following the bolts.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2000

17 Sport 15m, 6
10 Dogs Breakfast

Most right hand line of bolts. Climb the arete.

FA: Andrew Whitmore, 2003

18 Sport 17m, 7

1.1.3. The Arches 9 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.687758, -38.285909


The great feature wall of Wiapapa and home to Waipapa classics.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Seattle Rain

Balancy moves to the crack. Step out into the overhand and mantle into the ledge of the first belay of 'Mortality'

FA: Kelly Cudworth & Bryce Martin, 2002

22 Sport 8m, 5
2 * Popeye

Pitch 1 [23, 13m, 5 bolts]: Climb wall and arete. Easier after 3rd bolt and moves left at 5th bolt to belay.

Pitch 2 [22, 17m, 6 bolts]: Follow 'Mortality' till 2nd bolt then move right onto slab. Follow slab to roof. Gain large hold then easy climbing leads to final belay of 'Mortality'.

Climbing with half or two ropes advised as it can then be done in a single pitch. Still large amounts of drag if done in two pitches on a single.

FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore, Florian Baffie, 2000

23 Sport 30m 2, 11
3 * Mortality

Pitch 1 [17, 15m, 6 bolts]: Climb to the 4th bolt of 'The Arches'. Traverse left past 2 bolts and onto belay past next arete.

Pitch 2 [22, 16m, 7 bolts]: Climb straight up the slab past 3 bolts to the large flake. Follow right side of flake to groove above. Follow groove to belay.

FA: Kevin Barratt and Jan Wasey, 2001

22 Sport 31m 2, 13
4 *** The Arches

Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2000

18 Sport 35m, 13
5 ** Gauche mais pas Maladroit

Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof.

FA: Nick Adams, Florian Baffie, 2000

18 Sport 20m, 10
6 Three Steps to Heaven

Line directly below the finish of 'The Arches'. Tricky moves at many bolts. With a heart-breaker mantle finish.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2001

26 Sport 25m, 8
7 Ben’s Big Day Out

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

FA: Martyn Owen , Andrew Whitmore, Ben Owen, 2001

20 Mixed 22m, 3
8 * Fingers Crossed

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

FA: Richard Knott, 2000

22 Mixed 25m, 4
9 Game of Two Halves

Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay.

FA: Marytn Owen, Fran Louder, 2002

27 Sport 25m, 9

1.1.4. Wall of Fate 28 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 175.687483, -38.286062

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost Art

Start form the belay bolt 2m left of Spatacus. Thin trad climbing.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2012

23 Trad 12m
2 Spartacas

Start 15m Left of Wolverine. Start on dirt ledge. Mve up blocky rib feature to the top of the pinnacle. Up the slab using the offset crack.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2012

21 Sport 16m
3 ** Wolverine

Awesome sustained climbing on edges and pockets. Crux is at the top.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2012

26 Sport 20m, 7
4 The Root

FA: DaveGarrity,CraigMartin,ElsieLemordant, 2000

18 Trad 25m
5 * No Country For Young Men

An adventure. Up and right from the start of The Root, then a committed move rightwards will establish you in the wide groove (crux). Jam your way up the crack to the pine tree, sling it, then climb the right side of the tree until you can regain the rock. Continue up past the next tree following the right-hand crack system (don't escape left to The Root anchors), until you reach a single bolt just below the DBC anchor. Take a wide range of cams, nuts and slings. You can rap off on a 60m rope.

FFA: Bryce Martin

18 Mixed 33m, 1
6 * Breaking Point

The arete immediately left of BB.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2012

22 Sport 15m
7 * Billy Bold

Climb the face until you reach the crack on the left side of the pillar. Climb the crack to a bolted belay on top of the pillar.

FA: Bryce Martin, Craig Martin, 2000

17 Trad 8m
8 ** Quarry Climbing

Climb the face to the right until you reach the crack on the right side of the BB pillar. Same anchors as BB.

FA: Bryce Martin

FFA: 2000

19 Mixed 8m, 2
9 * Real Rock

Starts from ledge above the track. Climb the corner before moving onto the left arete and climbing to the ledge. Head up right facing corner to a semi-detached flake. Follow the crack as it steepens past 2 bolts. Double bolt anchor.

FA: Dave Garrity

FFA: 2000

21 Mixed 20m, 2
10 Sidewinder

Up the outside of the detached pillar. Climb the twin cracks until stepping left onto the front of the pillar past a bolt. Head slightly left past more bolts to the top of the pillar.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 1999

18 Mixed 22m, 4
11 Penny Lane 19 Trad 25m
12 * Finger of Fate

P1: (10m Gear) Climb the corner below the tree and then another corner to the base of the pillar. P2: (8m, Bolts) Climb the chimney on the right side of the pillar. Same belay as Sidewinder.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 1999

17 Trad 18m 2
13 * Perfect Light

Start as for FOF but head right from the first ledge up the face and thin crack towards the hanging corner. Head back left to the anchor via the steep face and wide crack.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2001

21 Mixed 25m, 5
14 * Lats Rule Thinking

Starts up the middle of the face just right of FOF. Mixed route. Hard technical climbing for the first 3 bolts. Move right to climb left facing corner. Above this gear is needed.

FA: Bryce,Bryce Martin, 2001

23 Mixed 25m, 9
15 * Scavenger

Mixed route. Start right of LRT. Head up the face drifting slightly right through small overlap. Stay just left of the arete.

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2001

24 Mixed 25m, 9
16 ** Robin

Head up the left side of the scoop before heading right under the roof then mantle. Anchors are on the ledge above.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2000

23 Sport 18m, 7
17 * Batman

Up the right side of the scoop. Tricky start bulge leads to small holds. Join Robin on the ledge.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2001

27 Sport 12m, 6
18 * Theropod

The multiple pod feature to the right of Batman.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2012

27 Sport 12m, 6
19 Yoda

Bolted route right of Therapod. Starts right of the access track. Straightforward climbing until bouldery crux.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2012

25 Sport 12m
20 Fossil Free Zone 23 Sport 18m
21 * Name Game

This is the first route found right of Yoda up on a narrow pine needle ledge. Chain link hangers up slab into an awkward corner.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2001

21 Sport 10m, 7
22 * Lock 'n' Load

Heads straight up the centre of the wall right of NG. Tricky start to exciting finish.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2000

24 Sport 10m, 4
23 Lock 'n' Rock

High step start to fingery moves heading right. Once good holds reached head straight up to ledge. Off ledge move right to finish at same anchors as LnL.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2000

25 Sport 10m, 5
24 Stealing Dad's Rack

Corner right of LnR. Finish over triangular block. Double bolt anchor.

FA: Craig Martin, 2001

17 Trad 10m
25 Its Not the Size

Start to the right of the corner. Over the bulge. Double bolt anchor.

FA: Phil Goss, 2001

21 Sport 6m, 3
26 * Grit Pike Thin

Up the slab with 1 bolt for protection. Into the corner and follow it to the top.

FA: Dave Garrity, 2000

19 Trad 10m
27 Forever 22 in the Gym

Starts from the right hand end of the ledge. Follow crack feature to the right of GPT.

FA: Doug Anderson, 2006

18 Trad 10m
28 Natural Progression 25 Sport 15m

1.2. Galaxy Wall 17 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doing it at Dawn 24 Sport 20m
2 No Country for Old Men 24 Sport 20m
3 Easy Lay 22 Trad 20m
4 Hands Christian 23 Sport 20m
5 Big Bird

Once you climb it you wont criticize the number of bolts.

18 Sport 20m
6 Defiance 23 Sport 25m, 8
7 Desperation 26 Sport 25m
8 Short n Sweet

Up the manky left-hand corner crack to DBC anchor. You may need to dig it out on the way.

FA: Steven Lane

17 Trad 10m
9 Dani

The right-hand (cleaner) corner and crack with a tree part-way up. Continues on bolts above the DBC anchor of Short n Sweet with some balancy moves and thought-provoking finish over the top to a DBC anchor.

20 Mixed 20m, 4
10 Hybrid Heavin 19 Mixed 20m, 2
11 Handsome Julio

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

24 Sport 20m
12 Handsome Julio Direct 28 Sport 20m
13 Baby Driver

The bolted line up the arete takes a few interesting twists and turns, has more than one crux and will keep you thinking if this is about your grade. Deserves a star.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

16 Sport 20m
14 ** Star Gazer

Up the left face and into the overhung corner to gain the ledge, then easier climbing to the belay. Cams or wires may be useful between the 3rd and 4th bolt. First ascent was without the 2nd bolt.

FA: Richard Knott, 2001

18 Sport 18m, 5
15 * Galaxy Grovel

FA: Richard Knott, 2001

21 Sport 15m, 4
16 Twinkle Twinkle

Traverse from far right up a series of ledges to the belay of Galaxy Grovel.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2011

14 Sport 20m
17 TE6A 20 Sport 20m, 5

1.3. Pipeline Wall 5 routes in Cliff

All Trad

CLOSED. Mighty River Power have denied access to this cliff. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on this cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Millennium Ways 19 Trad 10m
2 Carless Days 19 Mixed 10m, 2
3 The Grimm Reaper 19 Trad 18m
4 Wiggle Wiggle 20 Trad 30m
5 ** Synergy 20 Trad 28m

1.4. Cracks Wall 0 routes in Cliff


CLOSED. Mighty River Power have denied access to this cliff. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on this cliff.

1.5. The Car Park Wall 3 routes in Cliff

All Unknown

CLOSED. Might River Power do not allow climbing on the cliffs near the car park or power station. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on these cliffs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rays Crack 23 Unknown 15m
2 Birthday Girl 13 Unknown 15m
3 Pretty in Pink 15 Unknown 15m

1.6. Lakeside Wall 1 route in Cliff

All Unknown

CLOSED. Mighty River Power have denied access to this cliff. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on this cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Industrial Action 22 Unknown 22m

1.7. Graemes' Wall 2 routes in Cliff

All Unknown

Paddle across the lake from the boat ramp above the dam.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fallen Angel 17 Unknown 25m
2 Harvey The Wallbanger 21 Unknown 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 Birthday Girl Unknown 15m 1.5. The Car Park Wall
14 Twinkle Twinkle Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
15 Pretty in Pink Unknown 15m 1.5. The Car Park Wall
16 Baby Driver Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
17 Untitled Sport 1.1.1. Metaphysical Wall
Ring Them Bells Sport 15m, 6 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
* Billy Bold Trad 8m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Finger of Fate Trad 18m 2 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Stealing Dad's Rack Trad 10m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Short n Sweet Trad 10m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Fallen Angel Unknown 25m 1.7. Graemes' Wall
18 ** Honey Bee Sport 25m 1.1.1. Metaphysical Wall
Dogs Breakfast Sport 17m, 7 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
*** Millenium Madness Trad 15m 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
** Gauche mais pas Maladroit Sport 20m, 10 1.1.3. The Arches
*** The Arches Sport 35m, 13 1.1.3. The Arches
Forever 22 in the Gym Trad 10m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* No Country For Young Men Mixed 33m, 1 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Sidewinder Mixed 22m, 4 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
The Root Trad 25m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Big Bird Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
** Star Gazer Sport 18m, 5 1.2. Galaxy Wall
19 * Grit Pike Thin Trad 10m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Penny Lane Trad 25m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
** Quarry Climbing Mixed 8m, 2 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Hybrid Heavin Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Carless Days Mixed 10m, 2 1.3. Pipeline Wall
* Millennium Ways Trad 10m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
The Grimm Reaper Trad 18m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
20 Madness direct Top rope 15m 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Ben’s Big Day Out Mixed 22m, 3 1.1.3. The Arches
Dani Mixed 20m, 4 1.2. Galaxy Wall
TE6A Sport 20m, 5 1.2. Galaxy Wall
** Synergy Trad 28m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
Wiggle Wiggle Trad 30m 1.3. Pipeline Wall
21 Its Not the Size Sport 6m, 3 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Name Game Sport 10m, 7 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Perfect Light Mixed 25m, 5 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Real Rock Mixed 20m, 2 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Spartacas Sport 16m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Galaxy Grovel Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Harvey The Wallbanger Unknown 20m 1.7. Graemes' Wall
22 ** Sun Dried Tomatoes Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
* Fingers Crossed Mixed 25m, 4 1.1.3. The Arches
* Mortality Sport 31m 2, 13 1.1.3. The Arches
* Seattle Rain Sport 8m, 5 1.1.3. The Arches
* Breaking Point Sport 15m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Easy Lay Trad 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
*** Industrial Action Unknown 22m 1.6. Lakeside Wall
23 * Popeye Sport 30m 2, 11 1.1.3. The Arches
Fossil Free Zone Sport 18m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Lats Rule Thinking Mixed 25m, 9 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Lost Art Trad 12m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
** Robin Sport 18m, 7 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Defiance Sport 25m, 8 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Hands Christian Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Rays Crack Unknown 15m 1.5. The Car Park Wall
24 Mid Year Madness Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
* Lock 'n' Load Sport 10m, 4 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Scavenger Mixed 25m, 9 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Doing it at Dawn Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
Handsome Julio Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
No Country for Old Men Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
25 * RotoVegas Mixed 30m, 2 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Lock 'n' Rock Sport 10m, 5 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Natural Progression Sport 15m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Yoda Sport 12m 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
26 * Immortality Sport 20m, 10 1.1.1. Metaphysical Wall
* Utopia Sport 20m, 12 1.1.1. Metaphysical Wall
* Super C Ellery Mixed 30m, 6 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
Three Steps to Heaven Sport 25m, 8 1.1.3. The Arches
** Wolverine Sport 20m, 7 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
Desperation Sport 25m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
27 Game of Two Halves Sport 25m, 9 1.1.3. The Arches
* Batman Sport 12m, 6 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
* Theropod Sport 12m, 6 1.1.4. Wall of Fate
28 Valhalla Sport 20m, 10 1.1.1. Metaphysical Wall
Handsome Julio Direct Sport 20m 1.2. Galaxy Wall
30 The Nothing Sport 12m, 5 1.1.2. Millenium Wall
? ** Sex Kitten Sport 28m 1.1.2. Millenium Wall