Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Wharepapa South 742 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.575184, -38.191828

Description:

Pocketed ignimbrite with five main crags: Castle Rock, Froggatt Edge, Sheridan Hills, Bayley Road and Waipapa Dam. All have easy access, great climbing and there is something for everyone from grades 10 to 31.

Where To Stay:

Bryce’s Rockclimbing, http://rockclimb.co.nz, for backpacker accommodation. Camping is available in the grounds of Wharepapa South school for a small fee.

1.1. Castle Rock 172 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.522301, -38.131618

Description:

Large area of pocketed ignimbrite cliffs with something for everyone. Heights range from 6m to 25 m and grades from 12 to 26. There are 10 sectors, the most popular being Upper Tier, Lower Tier and Bumbly's Buttress.There is an entrance fee. Details are signposted at carpark.

Access Issues:

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach:

From Bryces keep heading west on Owairaka Rd until the signposted main entrance of Castle Rock. Turn right into the farm track and follow that right around to main carpark on west side of the crag. Takes 5 minutes to drive and the crags are 5 minutes walk after that.

Where To Stay:

Camping at Wharepapa School next to Bryces Cafe. 5 dollars per person a night. Bryce also has great units with hot showers and huge communal kitchen area. Check prices on his website.

1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.521268, -38.130232

Description:

Mostly very steep overhang starts on good holds to easier faces. Grades from 17 to 26.

Approach:

From the carpark, Bumbly's buttress is the highest sector up to the left. Walk up trail to Lower Tier, turn left and follow trail to Bumblys.

1.1.2. Upper Tier 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.520923, -38.130539

Description:

The line of cliffs directly above the Lower Tier. The rock is less pockety and more solid with climbs generally being vertical and technical.

Approach:

From carpark take track to Lower Tier, turn left there and halfway to Bumblys Buttress take stairs going up right and follow signposted track. Be very careful on upper tier as it is a narrow track and can be slippery. There are belay bolts at the bottom of most routes.

1.1.3. Lower Tier 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.520351, -38.130929

Description:

Left section has short, snappy climbs in the 18 and 19 grade range. Some of the lower grade climbs have a lot of wear. All the longer climbs down to the right of the crag are of excellent value. All the routes are labelled.

Approach:

Follow track from carpark. First cliff you get to is the Lower Tier. Follow it right around to the far right for taller walls.

1.1.4. South End 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.521093, -38.131515

1.1.5. Boondock Rock 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.6. The Slabs 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.7. Owairaka Buttress 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.524074, -38.130192

Description:

South west facing with some 25m climbs. Not climbed very often but nice climbing there with 7 routes from grade 13 to 22. Has been recent rockfall there.

Approach:

Drive down to bottom of the hill from main road and at the bullring the Towers are immediately to the right. Park outside of the bullring. Parking here will give access to Swamp Wall and Frighteners Rock also.

1.1.8. Swamp Wall 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.525408, -38.130930

1.1.9. Gum's Gully 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.526650, -38.131339

Description:

Continuation of Swamp Wall.

1.1.10. The Towers Of Pain 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.11. The Wailing Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.12. Other Oversized Boulders 2 routes in Field

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. Froggatt Edge 142 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.523392, -38.155842

Unique Features And Strengths:

Pocketed climbing. Huge range of grades from 12 - 32. Easy access.

Approach:

1 minute walk from your car

Where To Stay:

Wharepapa School. You can camp on the grounds. $5 per night.

1.2.1. Bete Noir Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.524776, -38.156956

Description:

Typical Froggatt climbing. Pockets, pockets and more pockets! Grades 19 to 25.

Approach:

Is the wall you first see as you drive into Froggatt. Park as for Main Cliff and walk back around the corner. Sunstrike starts immediatly above the fence.

1.2.2. Hold On To Your Face Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.524942, -38.156809

1.2.3. Main Cliff 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.524427, -38.156891

Description:

Excellent varied climbing from Grade 14 to 28, mostly in the 18 to 20 range. Home of some mega classics.

Approach:

From main carpark walk back along track to cliff. 3 minutes walk.

1.2.4. Heavenly Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.2.5. Echo Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.2.6. Red Block 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.523243, -38.156079

1.2.7. Slug Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.523349, -38.155951

Description:

Slab climbing in the lower grades 14 to 16, with a couple of steeper grade 17 offerings.

Approach:

From carpark head straight across grassy area to the right, and up the gully. 1 minute walk.

1.2.8. Bulge Gully 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.2.9. Animal Biscuit Valley 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.522754, -38.155564

1.2.10. The Beer Garden 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.522216, -38.155540

Description:

Mostly good starts to faces covered in lichen. Some have been cleaned but generally not climbed on enough to keep lichen away.

Approach:

From main carpark go thru gate towards Animal Biscuit, cut left off track and the climbs start at the back of Animal Biscuit and head to cliffs straight across small gully. 2 minutes walk.

1.2.11. Pupuke Boulder 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.521458, -38.156592

1.3. Sheridan Hills 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.491969, -38.143582

Description:

Tall pocketed ignimbrite cliffs here ranging from 20m to 35m. Flying Cow and the Chunderossa buttresses are the most popular sectors with fantastic climbing ranging in grade from 15 to 24. Some of the bolting seems close but the rock can be quite soft. Most of the other cliffs here are equipped with old naked bolts.

Approach:

Park on Seafund Road near gate, but not in front of it. Walk straight across the paddock towards the obvious pillar and down thru another gate to the crag. 7 minutes walk. Make sure the crag is not closed for lambing or stock and shut gates behind you. This is private land so must be respected.

1.3.1. Chunderosa Buttress 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.493180, -38.143387

Description:

Fantastic climbing on good holds.

1.3.2. Flying Cow Buttress 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.493752, -38.143125

Description:

First crag on arrival. 20m with mostly easier climbs and a good 20. Two new climbs on north end both about grade 16.

1.3.3. Hidden Cirque 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.4. Meteor Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder and Sport

1.3.5. Crows Nest Pinnacle 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.6. Western Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.4. Lost Lagoon 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Approach:

On the true right below the dam.

1.5. Bosch 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.530552, -38.169134

Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.5.1. Cabbage Tree Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.5.2. Leaning Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.5.3. Bridge Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.5.4. Kanuka Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.5.5. Intermediate Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.6. Smiths Rock 143 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.6.1. Swamp Wall 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.6.2. Dry Valley 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.6.4. The Three Sisters 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.5. Pinnacle Lower Tier 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.6. Little Face 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.7. End Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.8. Southend Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.9. Back of Beyound 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.10. Lone Star Pinnacle 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7. Bayley Road 77 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.506565, -38.184440

Description:

Four different walls here all on sharp, pocketed ignimbrite. Mostly shorter climbs but enjoyable for a quiet day away from the main crags.

1.7.1. River Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.507684, -38.187372

Description:

Good climbs mostly on sharp pockets grades15 to 24. Sun all morning. Whole set of new 16's and 17's added to the far right end.

1.7.2. Monday Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.504814, -38.183233

Description:

Short climbs on sharp rock, mostly vertical. Grades 10 to 23. Good winter crag with full sun all morning. Some routes have old style bolts with no hangers. There is a new small crag further past this wall.

Approach:

Walk past River Wall along stream to gate.Thru gate to next paddock and head left over brow. Head down to far right corner, thru another gate and Monday Wall is by itself in the middle of the next paddock out left.

1.7.3. New Wall 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.7.4. Roadside 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.506829, -38.188254

Description:

Tower right next to road on left of carpark. Shorter new climbs around to west side of wall.

Approach:

3 minutes walk from carpark.

1.8. Gower 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.507680, -38.143722

Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.8.1. The Pinnacles 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.8.2. The Lower Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.8.3. Wacky Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.8.4. The Forks 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9. Halls 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.9.1. Sunday Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.2. Waterfall Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.3. The Arches 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.4. Crack Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.5. Carpark 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.10. Waipapa 80 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.686815, -38.292046

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome technical climbing on superb rock. Mainly sport with some trad lines as well.

Description:

Slab, roofs, bulges, cracks or face climbing. Waipapa has it all.

Access Issues:

Pipeline Wall, Cracks Wall, Lakeside Wall and Carpark Wall are currently CLOSED for climbing. Do not climb on these cliffs.

Approach:

Drive towards Mangakino from Wharepapa South for about 20 minutes. Park at the dam.

1.10.1. Main Cliff 52 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 175.687756, -38.285864

Description:

Walls of fully welded ignimbrite lend themselves to interesting and technical climbing. The walls are often less than vertical with cracks, bulges and small roofs thrown in to keep you interested. Most routes are bolted but there are also a number of mid range graded trad routes.

Approach:

Park at the Waipapa Dam. Walk down stream along the road from the locked gate. Head left along a gravel track after 200m. Head downstream on the mountain bike track until just before the track heads right away from the river. Take the rough track up the hill away from the river. Step left over the log after 20m. Follow this track it brings you out at the right hand end of Wall of Fate. Head left for Millennium Wall and Right for Galaxy Wall.

1.10.2. Galaxy Wall 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.10.3. Pipeline Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

CLOSED. Mighty River Power have denied access to this cliff. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on this cliff.

1.10.4. Cracks Wall 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

CLOSED. Mighty River Power have denied access to this cliff. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on this cliff.

1.10.5. The Car Park Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

CLOSED. Might River Power do not allow climbing on the cliffs near the car park or power station. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on these cliffs.

1.10.6. Lakeside Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

CLOSED. Mighty River Power have denied access to this cliff. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on this cliff.

1.10.7. Graemes' Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
Approach:

Paddle across the lake from the boat ramp above the dam.