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Description

Moderately graded routes in a well established area.

Access issues inherited from Waipapa

Pipeline Wall, Cracks Wall, Lakeside Wall and Carpark Wall are currently CLOSED for climbing. Do not climb on these cliffs.

Approach

Walk left along the track until you reach a flat open area before a rope bridge. Stop here. You are at the base of Sex Kitten.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
*** Sex Kitten Sport 28m

Climb the bulges to the ledge. Crux is the steep bulge about the ledge. Then progresses through easier ground to a steep finish on large holds.

FA: David Hood

2
26 * Super C Ellery Mixed 30m, 6

Start up 'RotoVegas' then veer left up the face. Sequency with a powerful finish.

FA: Dave Hood & Martyn Owen, 2001

3
25 * RotoVegas Mixed 30m, 2

Start in short corner crack, veer left into right crack. Cruxes are at bolts.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Bryce Martin, 2001

4
18 *** Millenium Madness Trad 15m

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

FA: Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt & Jo McMurray, 2000

5
30 The Nothing Sport 12m, 5

Start up Millennium Madness then continue straight up the thin seam. Head right through the roof and headwall.

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013

6
24 Mid Year Madness Mixed 25m, 2

The continuation of 'Millennium Madness'. Climb through the roof with good hold on the lip. follow thin crack and arete to tree belay at the top.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 2000

7
20 * Madness direct Top rope 15m

The thin seam to the right of the corner. A bit of a squeeze route but some nice fingers moves

8
22 ** Sun Dried Tomatoes Sport 15m, 5

Follow the bolts right, then head straight up at the third bolt.

FA: Martyn Owen & Nick Adams, 2000

9
17 * Ring Them Bells Sport 15m, 6

Clear line following the bolts.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2000

10
18 Dogs Breakfast Sport 17m, 7

Most right hand line of bolts. Climb the arete.

FA: Andrew Whitmore, 2003

Activity

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