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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
Long/Lat: 175.687758, -38.285909
The great feature wall of Wiapapa and home to Waipapa classics.
- Access Issues:
To get there from Millenium Wall head back along the track for about 15m then scramble up onto the belay ledge below the big corner. This is the start of 'The Arches'
Balancy moves to the crack. Step out into the overhand and mantle into the ledge of the first belay of 'Mortality'
FA: Kelly Cudworth & Bryce Martin, 2002
Pitch 1 [23, 13m, 5 bolts]: Climb wall and arete. Easier after 3rd bolt and moves left at 5th bolt to belay.
Climbing with half or two ropes advised as it can then be done in a single pitch. Still large amounts of drag if done in two pitches on a single.
FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore, Florian Baffie, 2000
Pitch 1 [17, 15m, 6 bolts]: Climb to the 4th bolt of 'The Arches'. Traverse left past 2 bolts and onto belay past next arete.
Pitch 2 [22, 16m, 7 bolts]: Climb straight up the slab past 3 bolts to the large flake. Follow right side of flake to groove above. Follow groove to belay.
FA: Kevin Barratt and Jan Wasey, 2001
Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.
FA: Kevin Barratt, 2000
Gauche mais pas Maladroit
Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof.
FA: Nick Adams, Florian Baffie, 2000
Three Steps to Heaven
Line directly below the finish of 'The Arches'. Tricky moves at many bolts. With a heart-breaker mantle finish.
FA: Martyn Owen, 2001
Ben’s Big Day Out
FA: Martyn Owen , Andrew Whitmore, Ben Owen, 2001
Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.
FA: Richard Knott, 2000
Game of Two Halves
Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay.
FA: Marytn Owen, Fran Louder, 2002
|18||Gauche mais pas Maladroit||1020m,|
|20||Ben’s Big Day Out||322m,|
|26||Three Steps to Heaven||825m,|
|27||Game of Two Halves||925m,|