A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Zachary Brierley Aidan Sarginson Evan Hudson Ashkan Jess Wallace Thibaut Christian Richardson Max Warren Alexei Drummond John Pitcairn
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. The Arches 11 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Arches 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -38.285909, 175.687758
description
The great feature wall of Wiapapa and home to Waipapa classics.
approach
Warning: The passage from the Arches to the Millennium wall is extremely loose! Risk of fall!!!
ethic
The majority of routes will need to be cleaned at the beginning of the season or after big weather events, due to the forests above the cliffs. Wire brushes will work best, but take care as you can damage the ignimbrite through excessive cleaning.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Seattle Rain
Balancy moves to the crack. Step out into the overhand and mantle into the ledge of the first belay of 'Mortality' FA: Kelly Cudworth & Bryce Martin, 2002 | 22 | 13m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Popeye
Pitch 1 [23, 13m, 5 bolts]: Climb wall and arete. Easier after 3rd bolt and moves left at 5th bolt to belay. Pitch 2 [22, 17m, 6 bolts]: Follow 'Mortality' till 2nd bolt then move right onto slab. Follow slab to roof. Gain large hold then easy climbing leads to final belay of 'Mortality'. Climbing with half or two ropes advised as it can then be done in a single pitch. Still large amounts of drag if done in two pitches on a single. FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore & Florian Baffie, 2000 | 23 | 30m, 2, 11 | |||||
3 |
★ Mortality
Pitch 1 [17, 15m, 6 bolts]: Climb to the 4th bolt of 'The Arches'. Traverse left past 2 bolts and onto belay past next arete. Pitch 2 [22, 16m, 7 bolts]: Climb straight up the slab past 3 bolts to the large flake. Follow right side of flake to groove above. Follow groove to belay. FA: Kevin Barratt & Jan Wasey, 2001 | 22 | 31m, 2, 13 | |||||
4 |
Fire In The Sky
Start up Arches break left and head up face, Through roof (knee bar) then continue straight up to DBC belay. Set: James Field-Mitchell FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 29 | 30m | |||||
5 |
★★★ The Arches
Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish. FA: Kevin Barratt, 2000 | 18 | 35m, 13 | |||||
6 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof. FA: Nick Adams & Florian Baffie, 2000 | 18 | 20m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★★ Hiroshima
An extension to 'Gauche mais pas Maladroit' Climb through the roof. FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2014 | 27 | 26m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
Line directly below the finish of 'The Arches'. Tricky moves at many bolts. With a heart-breaker mantle finish. FA: Martyn Owen, 2001 | 26 | 25m, 8 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★ Ben’s Big Day Out
Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'. FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore & Ben Owen, 2001 | 20 | 22m, 3 | |||||
10 |
★★ Fingers Crossed
Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay. FA: Richard Knott, 2000 | 22 | 25m, 4 | |||||
11 |
Game of Two Halves
Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay. FA: Marytn Owen & Fran Louder, 2002 | 27 | 25m, 9 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 | ★ | Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ||
★★★ | The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||
20 | ★★ | Ben’s Big Day Out | 22m, 3 | ||
22 | ★★ | Fingers Crossed | 25m, 4 | ||
★ | Mortality | 31m, 2, 13 | |||
★★ | Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ | Popeye | 30m, 2, 11 | ||
26 | ★★★ | Three Steps to Heaven | 25m, 8 | ||
27 | Game of Two Halves | 25m, 9 | |||
★★ | Hiroshima | 26m | |||
29 | Fire In The Sky | 30m |