A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. Castle Rock
172 in Crag
- 1.1. Bumbly's Buttress 29 in Sector
- 1.2. Upper Tier 39 in Sector
- 1.3. Lower Tier 36 in Sector
- 1.4. South End 10 in Area
- 1.5. Boondock Rock 1 in Area
- 1.6. The Slabs 1 in Area
- 1.7. Owairaka Buttress 1 in Sector
- 1.8. Swamp Wall 31 in Area
- 1.9. Gum's Gully 11 in Sector
- 1.10. The Towers Of Pain 4 in Area
- 1.11. The Wailing Wall 7 in Area
- 1.12. Other Oversized Boulders 2 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Unknown and other styles
Long/Lat: 175.522301, -38.131618
- Access Issues:
The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.
From Bryces keep heading west on Owairaka Rd until the signposted main entrance of Castle Rock. Turn right into the farm track and follow that right around to main carpark on west side of the crag. Takes 5 minutes to drive and the crags are 5 minutes walk after that.
- Where To Stay:
Camping at Wharepapa School next to Bryces Cafe. 5 dollars per person a night. Bryce also has great units with hot showers and huge communal kitchen area. Check prices on his website.
Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 175.521268, -38.130232
Mostly very steep overhang starts on good holds to easier faces. Grades from 17 to 26.
From the carpark, Bumbly's buttress is the highest sector up to the left. Walk up trail to Lower Tier, turn left and follow trail to Bumblys.
Hairdresser On Fire
Short overhang on big holds to lichen covered arete.
The King And I
Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.
The King Of Thieves
Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.
|5||Calling All Arnolds||21||20m|
|7||The Wicker Man||22||20m|
|9||Strong Men for Jesus||20||15m|
Love And Kisses For Jenny
Steep overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs. Great climb.
Slight overhang start thru to short corner. Easier climbing to mantle. Then to the top on small pockets.
Rok It To The Moon
Wandering line up face then arete with great exposure.
|18||The People's Friend||21||15m|
The Thirty Nine Steps
Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up
Up thru overhang then across left to join torquemada or straight up the face doesn't make much difference in grade.
|21||Always The Sun||16||624m,|
|25||Whatever Tickles Your Fancy||12||8m|
|26||Magical Mystery Tour||12||8m|
|28||By Crikey, By Golly, By Jingoes||20||8m|
|29||Dust In The Wind||17||7m|
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Long/Lat: 175.520923, -38.130539
The line of cliffs directly above the Lower Tier. The rock is less pockety and more solid with climbs generally being vertical and technical.
From carpark take track to Lower Tier, turn left there and halfway to Bumblys Buttress take stairs going up right and follow signposted track. Be very careful on upper tier as it is a narrow track and can be slippery. There are belay bolts at the bottom of most routes.
Don't let the low grade fool you. Direct start will be a challenge.
|3||Never Trust A Man (with egg on his face)||12||16m|
|4||Just Who Is The 5 O'Clock Hero||15||16m|
Good holds up to first bolt then strong move over to left wall and up slab.
Taken For Granted
Crimps to start, up vertical wall, then onto slab.
FA: Greame Dingle & Ray Button
|18||Meat Is Murder||15||11m|
|19||Screaming Blue Messiahs||16||10m|
Excellent thin slab climbing, with high first bolt, to steeper head wall on small pockets.
First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.
|25||Just Say No (to cracks)||21||16m|
The Shining Path
Fantastic arete climb. Three cruxes, one being the mantle onto huge ledge near the top.
|32||In Sha La||15||12m|
|33||Eat My Daffodil||19||10m|
|34||Goddess Of Pox||16||12m|
|35||Street Life Serenade||16||10m|
Long/Lat: 175.520351, -38.130929
Left section has short, snappy climbs in the 18 and 19 grade range. Some of the lower grade climbs have a lot of wear. All the longer climbs down to the right of the crag are of excellent value. All the routes are labelled.
Follow track from carpark. First cliff you get to is the Lower Tier. Follow it right around to the far right for taller walls.
|3||Ain't Nothin' To It||5||7m|
Overhanging start on good holds to short vertical face.
Oh My God
Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.
Follow crack straight up. Rock a bit friable.
Tough start up thru scoop, then onto tricky vertical face.
Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.
Out With The Boys
Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.
Wild Country Express
Go straight up thru overhang on small holds to face with good holds
Ground Up Ethics
vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.
Great holds all the way up vertical face.
Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.
Ride On Time
Good moves right of arete. Thinner than it looks.
Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing.
Built For Comfort
Pumpy arete climb
Great holds on steep face.
Strange New Worlds
Great grade 16 corner climb. Crux is getting into the corner.
Space, The Final Frontier
Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.
Girls, Girls, Girls
Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.
The Grim Reamer
Face climb to awkward deep groove. Exit this to anchors.
Great climb over jutting overhangs on good holds
Virgin On Easy
Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.
Reamed By Percentage
Awesome climb up the arete, veer left under the roof, into the groove and up headwall. Best 18 here.
Head straight up arete into groove on the right of roof (crux). Pumpy.
Up the face and over the bulge at the top, all on good holds.
FA: Debbie Hinde
Fizzing At The Bung
Great wandering climb up face, over arete to left side and up to anchors.
Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.
Best grade 15 here with good holds over bulges. The tag at the bottom has another name for it now.
Long/Lat: 175.521093, -38.131515
Pumpy vertical face climb. Has a second pitch to the top but well overgrown above first anchors.
|7||Shine On Through||15||7m|
|9||The New Stone Age||14||8m|
|1||The Comeback Trail||19||10m|
Long/Lat: 175.524074, -38.130192
South west facing with some 25m climbs. Not climbed very often but nice climbing there with 7 routes from grade 13 to 22. Has been recent rockfall there.
Drive down to bottom of the hill from main road and at the bullring the Towers are immediately to the right. Park outside of the bullring. Parking here will give access to Swamp Wall and Frighteners Rock also.
Crown Of Thistles
Good start to steep bulge. Over bulge on good holds and up vertical face.
Sport, Unknown and other styles
Long/Lat: 175.525408, -38.130930
|5||Sex, Money, Freaks||17||12m|
|7||The Sod-All Wall||20||15m|
|8||Jezt Oder Nie (now or never)||21||12m|
Climb up the black streak to big ledge. Move right and get onto headwall with thin moves to the top. Great climb.
Mossy start to easy angle slab.
Knuckles and Dust
Hard start to corner on tiny holds to the top.
|23||Dirty Little Secret||20||9m|
|28||Hung, Dogged, and Quartered||22||10m|
Counting The Days
Great technical slab climbing. No rest till the anchors.
|30||Staining Greg's Undies||24||20m|
Long/Lat: 175.526650, -38.131339
Continuation of Swamp Wall.
Gleaming The Cube
Start on crimps, work your way up to good holds on arete to anchors.
Take the A-Train
Another great 15. straight up steep face all on good holds.
|6||Blue Eyes For Dorsey||16||12m|
|7||Basin St Blues||15||10m|
Mellowing To Brubeck
Hard 15. Follow right side of arete thru overhang to the top.
Married With Children
Great overhanging start. Up thru tough groove to top.
|2||Trust Me (I know what I'm doing)||15||10m|
|4||La Dolce Vita||21||10m|
|1||Von Sacher Masoch||18||12m|
|2||The Lion and the Cobra||18||12m|
|3||A Cure For Serpents||19||15m|
|4||Make My Day||18||15m|
|6||Cha Cha Loco||8||6m|
|7||Go For It||15||7m|
|1||Hey Mister Algi Man||17||8m|