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Description

Mostly very steep overhang starts on good holds to easier faces. Grades from 17 to 26.

Access issues inherited from Castle Rock

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach

From the carpark, Bumbly's buttress is the highest sector up to the left. Walk up trail to Lower Tier, turn left and follow trail to Bumblys.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 Shi'ite Unknown 3m
2
19 Hairdresser On Fire Sport 8m, 2

Short overhang on big holds to lichen covered arete.

3
17 * The King And I Sport 10m, 3

Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.

4
21 ** The King Of Thieves Sport 10m, 4

Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.

5
21 *** Calling All Arnolds Sport 20m
6
23 Wicked Sport 15m
7
22 ** The Wicker Man Sport 20m
8
24 *** Via Dolorosa Sport 15m
9
20 *** Strong Men for Jesus Sport 15m
10
22 Hot Lava Sport 15m
11

Steep overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs. Great climb.

12
24 ** Mister Heartbreak Sport 15m
13
19 *** Speedy Gonzales Sport 20m, 4

Slight overhang start thru to short corner. Easier climbing to mantle. Then to the top on small pockets.

14
19 Bhang Lhassi Sport 15m
15
21 El Rayo-X Sport 20m, 4
16
14 ** Rok It To The Moon Sport 23m, 5

Wandering line up face then arete with great exposure.

17
26 * Torquemada Sport 15m
18
21 The People's Friend Sport 15m
19
17 * The Thirty Nine Steps Sport 15m, 6

Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up

20
19 * Small Beginnings Sport 24m, 6

Up thru overhang then across left to join torquemada or straight up the face doesn't make much difference in grade.

21
16 * Always The Sun Sport 24m, 6
22
16 * Wally's Womble Sport 20m
23
12 Kosher Unknown 8m
24
15 Fraggle Unknown 7m
26
12 Magical Mystery Tour Unknown 8m
27
15 Radiant Gnomeworks Sport 8m
29
17 Dust In The Wind Unknown 7m