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Description

Mostly very steep overhang starts on good holds to easier faces. Grades from 17 to 26.

Access issues inherited from Castle Rock

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach

From the carpark, Bumbly's buttress is the highest sector up to the left. Walk up trail to Lower Tier, turn left and follow trail to Bumblys.

Routes

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Grade Route

Short overhang on big holds to lichen covered arete.

Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.

Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.

Steep overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs. Great climb.

Slight overhang start thru to short corner. Easier climbing to mantle. Then to the top on small pockets.

Wandering line up face then arete with great exposure.

Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up

Up thru overhang then across left to join torquemada or straight up the face doesn't make much difference in grade.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bumbly's Buttress.