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Description

Left section has short, snappy climbs in the 18 and 19 grade range. Some of the lower grade climbs have a lot of wear. All the longer climbs down to the right of the crag are of excellent value. All the routes are labelled.

Access issues inherited from Castle Rock

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach

Follow track from carpark. First cliff you get to is the Lower Tier. Follow it right around to the far right for taller walls.

Routes

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Grade Route

Overhanging start on good holds to short vertical face.

Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.

Follow crack straight up. Rock a bit friable.

Tough start up thru scoop, then onto tricky vertical face.

Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

Go straight up thru overhang on small holds to face with good holds

vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

Great holds all the way up vertical face.

Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.

Good moves right of arete. Thinner than it looks.

Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing.

Pumpy arete climb

Great holds on steep face.

Great grade 16 corner climb. Crux is getting into the corner.

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.

Face climb to awkward deep groove. Exit this to anchors.

Great climb over jutting overhangs on good holds

Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.

Awesome climb up the arete, veer left under the roof, into the groove and up headwall. Best 18 here.

Head straight up arete into groove on the right of roof (crux). Pumpy.

Up the face and over the bulge at the top, all on good holds.

FA: Debbie Hinde

Great wandering climb up face, over arete to left side and up to anchors.

Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.

Best grade 15 here with good holds over bulges. The tag at the bottom has another name for it now.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lower Tier.