Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Waikato 1,110 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.326552, -38.045211

Description:

The Waikato (Maori for "water-flow") is a large basin housing the mighty Waikato river and the majority of the North Islands climbing development.

The most notable area is the 'Wharepapa Region'[11874529] with many crags in close proximity. The climbing in this region is on pocket in ingnmbrite, so tape is a worthwhile investment.

Limestone is also present in the Waikato. 'The Airstrip' in 'Waitomo' is great for bouldering and 'Mangaokewa' just outside of Te Kuiti is steep sport climbing.

1.1. Wharepapa South 742 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.575184, -38.191828

Description:

Pocketed ignimbrite with five main crags: Castle Rock, Froggatt Edge, Sheridan Hills, Bayley Road and Waipapa Dam. All have easy access, great climbing and there is something for everyone from grades 10 to 31.

Where To Stay:

Bryce’s Rockclimbing, http://rockclimb.co.nz, for backpacker accommodation. Camping is available in the grounds of Wharepapa South school for a small fee.

1.1.1. Castle Rock 172 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.522301, -38.131618

Description:

Large area of pocketed ignimbrite cliffs with something for everyone. Heights range from 6m to 25 m and grades from 12 to 26. There are 10 sectors, the most popular being Upper Tier, Lower Tier and Bumbly's Buttress.There is an entrance fee. Details are signposted at carpark.

Access Issues:

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach:

From Bryces keep heading west on Owairaka Rd until the signposted main entrance of Castle Rock. Turn right into the farm track and follow that right around to main carpark on west side of the crag. Takes 5 minutes to drive and the crags are 5 minutes walk after that.

Where To Stay:

Camping at Wharepapa School next to Bryces Cafe. 5 dollars per person a night. Bryce also has great units with hot showers and huge communal kitchen area. Check prices on his website.

1.1.2. Froggatt Edge 142 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.523392, -38.155842

Unique Features And Strengths:

Pocketed climbing. Huge range of grades from 12 - 32. Easy access.

Approach:

1 minute walk from your car

Where To Stay:

Wharepapa School. You can camp on the grounds. $5 per night.

1.1.3. Sheridan Hills 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.491969, -38.143582

Description:

Tall pocketed ignimbrite cliffs here ranging from 20m to 35m. Flying Cow and the Chunderossa buttresses are the most popular sectors with fantastic climbing ranging in grade from 15 to 24. Some of the bolting seems close but the rock can be quite soft. Most of the other cliffs here are equipped with old naked bolts.

Approach:

Park on Seafund Road near gate, but not in front of it. Walk straight across the paddock towards the obvious pillar and down thru another gate to the crag. 7 minutes walk. Make sure the crag is not closed for lambing or stock and shut gates behind you. This is private land so must be respected.

1.1.4. Lost Lagoon 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Approach:

On the true right below the dam.

1.1.5. Bosch 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.530552, -38.169134

Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.1.6. Smiths Rock 143 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.1.7. Bayley Road 77 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.506565, -38.184440

Description:

Four different walls here all on sharp, pocketed ignimbrite. Mostly shorter climbs but enjoyable for a quiet day away from the main crags.

1.1.8. Gower 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.507680, -38.143722

Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.1.9. Halls 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Access Issues:

CLOSED

1.1.10. Waipapa 80 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.686815, -38.292046

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome technical climbing on superb rock. Mainly sport with some trad lines as well.

Description:

Slab, roofs, bulges, cracks or face climbing. Waipapa has it all.

Access Issues:

Pipeline Wall, Cracks Wall, Lakeside Wall and Carpark Wall are currently CLOSED for climbing. Do not climb on these cliffs.

Approach:

Drive towards Mangakino from Wharepapa South for about 20 minutes. Park at the dam.

1.2. Te Kuiti 69 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.163732, -38.342441

1.2.1. Mangaokewa 69 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.196335, -38.360312

Description:

Limestone climbing just south of Te Kuiti. There sheltered climbing for those wet days, and more exposed climbs for enjoying the sun.

Helmets are strongly advised, due to the likely nature of rock fall.

Approach:

Cross the bridge at the car park. Follow the track right and then double back up the hill. Turn right at the cairn and follow the steep track to the 'Coliseum' approx 25mins.

Where To Stay:

There is free camping in the car park. There are bathrooms and fire pits available.

1.3. Waitomo 211 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.067326, -38.245017

1.3.1. Te Anga 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.2. Mangaotaki Road 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.3. The Airstrip 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.025517, -38.259956

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great limestone bouldering 2.5 hours south of Auckland.

Description:

Fantastic limestone bouldering set amongst the karst landscape that is Waitomo. There is a bountiful number of easy bouldering for those that have just started climbing, or for those feeling rusty. There is a great diversity of climbing styles from roof problems, to technical slabs, to scary high balls.

If its wet, climb in 'Grot View Cave'[190692531] or if you have ropes with you, head to 'The Colesseum'[80406585] in 'Mangaokewa'[80404782].

Access Issues:

Private Land.

Please observe the NZAC sign posted at the entrance to the farm. A $5 donation is suggested for bouldering trips.

Approach:

Catching the turn-off can be difficult. Drive straight through waitomo and continue on windy roads for 10-15mins from the large touristy centre. The turn-off is on the right, up a farm driveway. You'll know you have the correct one, as it has a small, clearly visible NZAC signpost at the start of the driveway.

Ethic:

No Chipping. Chalk is OK.

1.3.4. Frogpond 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.005081, -38.271616

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hard to find North Island gem.

Description:

Paynes style face climbing.

Access Issues:

MUST contact the landowners before entering the farm to obtain permission. Ring Ben and Bex Stubbs on 07 8787426. The property is a commercial farm and as such has hazards associated with such a property. Access is at own risk.

Approach:

Park next to the wooden gate located on Wiatomo Caves Road, 21.4km from the Hangatiki roundabout. Follow the track across a bridge through another gate and up the hill for approximately 500m. On your left will be a large tree down in the gully. Head towards it then up the other side of the gully through the bush. You should scramble over and through some rock to access the next gully over. You should be able to see the 'frogpond' in front of you. The crag is obvious and located next to the pond.

Ethic:

Remember you are on private land. So no dogs, camping or disturbing farm animals. Make sure you take all your rubbish with you and leave the place as you found it. Leave all gates as you found them.

1.4. King Country 13 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.4.1. The Big O 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.4.2. Mapara Stream 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5. Mangaotaki 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.881482, -38.415750

1.6. Piarere 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.741145, -37.974335

1.6.1. Southern Cliff 45 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.6.2. Northern Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.7. Ohakuri Dam 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 176.082863, -38.411793

1.8. Lake Whakamaru 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.860397, -38.419368