A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Waikato 1,075 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.326552, -38.045211

Description:

The Waikato (Maori for "water-flow") is a large basin housing the mighty Waikato river and the majority of the North Islands climbing development.

The most notable area is the 'Wharepapa Region' with many crags in close proximity. The climbing in this region is on pocket in ingnmbrite, so tape is a worthwhile investment.

Limestone is also present in the Waikato. 'The Airstrip' in 'Waitomo' is great for bouldering and 'Mangaokewa' just outside of Te Kuiti is steep sport climbing.

1.1. Wharepapa Region 731 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.575184, -38.191828

Description:

Pocketed ignimbrite with four main crags: Castle Rock, Froggatts Edge, Sheridan Hills and Baileys Crag. All have easy access, great climbing and there is something for everyone from grades 10 to 31.

1.1.1. Castle Rock 172 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.522301, -38.131618

Description:

Large area of pocketed ignimbrite cliffs with something for everyone. Heights range from 6m to 25 m and grades from 12 to 26. There are 10 sectors, the most popular being Upper Tier, Lower Tier and Bumbly's Buttress.There is an entrance fee. Details are signposted at carpark.

Access Issues:

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach:

From Bryces keep heading west on Owairaka Rd until the signposted main entrance of Castle Rock. Turn right into the farm track and follow that right around to main carpark on west side of the crag. Takes 5 minutes to drive and the crags are 5 minutes walk after that.

Where To Stay:

Camping at Wharepapa School next to Bryces Cafe. 5 dollars per person a night. Bryce also has great units with hot showers and huge communal kitchen area. Check prices on his website.

1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress 29 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.521268, -38.130232

Description:

Mostly very steep overhang starts on good holds to easier faces. Grades from 17 to 26.

Approach:

From the carpark, Bumbly's buttress is the highest sector up to the left. Walk up trail to Lower Tier, turn left and follow trail to Bumblys.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shi'ite 10 Unknown 3m
2 Hairdresser On Fire

Short overhang on big holds to lichen covered arete.

19 Sport 8m, 2
3 * The King And I

Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.

17 Sport 10m, 3
4 ** The King Of Thieves

Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.

21 Sport 10m, 4
5 *** Calling All Arnolds 21 Sport 20m
6 Wicked 23 Sport 15m
7 ** The Wicker Man 22 Sport 20m
8 *** Via Dolorosa 24 Sport 15m
9 *** Strong Men for Jesus 20 Sport 15m
10 Hot Lava 22 Sport 15m
11 * Love And Kisses For Jenny

Steep overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs. Great climb.

20 Sport 20m, 5
12 ** Mister Heartbreak 24 Sport 15m
13 *** Speedy Gonzales

Slight overhang start thru to short corner. Easier climbing to mantle. Then to the top on small pockets.

19 Sport 20m, 4
14 Bhang Lhassi 19 Sport 15m
15 El Rayo-X 21 Sport 20m, 4
16 ** Rok It To The Moon

Wandering line up face then arete with great exposure.

14 Sport 23m, 5
17 * Torquemada 26 Sport 15m
18 The People's Friend 21 Sport 15m
19 * The Thirty Nine Steps

Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up

17 Sport 15m, 6
20 * Small Beginnings

Up thru overhang then across left to join torquemada or straight up the face doesn't make much difference in grade.

19 Sport 24m, 6
21 * Always The Sun 16 Sport 24m, 6
22 * Wally's Womble 16 Sport 20m
23 Kosher 12 Unknown 8m
24 Fraggle 15 Unknown 7m
25 Whatever Tickles Your Fancy 12 Unknown 8m
26 Magical Mystery Tour 12 Unknown 8m
27 Radiant Gnomeworks 15 Sport 8m
28 By Crikey, By Golly, By Jingoes 20 Sport 8m
29 Dust In The Wind 17 Unknown 7m
1.1.1.2. Upper Tier 39 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.520923, -38.130539

Description:

The line of cliffs directly above the Lower Tier. The rock is less pockety and more solid with climbs generally being vertical and technical.

Approach:

From carpark take track to Lower Tier, turn left there and halfway to Bumblys Buttress take stairs going up right and follow signposted track. Be very careful on upper tier as it is a narrow track and can be slippery. There are belay bolts at the bottom of most routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Esmit

Don't let the low grade fool you. Direct start will be a challenge.

9 Sport 8m
2 Anteater 15 Unknown 8m
3 * Never Trust A Man (with egg on his face) 12 Sport 16m
4 Just Who Is The 5 O'Clock Hero 15 Sport 16m
5 Turkey Tactics 15 Sport 18m
6 * Psychedelic Rockers 13 Sport 19m
7 Cosmic Jam 12 Sport 20m
8 Lentil Nightmare 14 Sport 20m
9 Krishna 16 Sport 18m
10 Muscle Graft 20 Sport 17m
11 * Going Ape 22 Sport 14m
12 Goosey Gander

Good holds up to first bolt then strong move over to left wall and up slab.

18 Sport 12m, 4
13 * Taken For Granted

Crimps to start, up vertical wall, then onto slab.

20 Sport 12m, 5
14 The Messiah 16 Unknown 6m
15 Holy Braille

FA: Greame Dingle & Ray Button

15 Sport 10m
16 Cosmic Shiva 17 Sport 10m
17 * Lycra Fagots 17 Sport 10m
18 Meat Is Murder 15 Sport 11m
19 * Screaming Blue Messiahs 16 Sport 10m
20 * Infidel 23 Sport 12m
21 Apocolypse 17 Trad 10m
22 * Armagedon 17 Trad 15m
23 *** Hare Rama

Excellent thin slab climbing, with high first bolt, to steeper head wall on small pockets.

19 Sport 15m, 4
24 ** Jug Abuse

First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.

20 Mixed 16m, 3
25 Just Say No (to cracks) 21 Sport 16m
26 *** Dionysus 24 Sport 16m
27 *** Revelations 21 Trad 16m
28 ** The Shining Path

Fantastic arete climb. Three cruxes, one being the mantle onto huge ledge near the top.

21 Sport 16m, 5
29 The Caleph 18 Trad 5m
30 Matlub Nuri 14 Trad 16m
31 Amediat 18 Trad 16m
32 * In Sha La 15 Trad 12m
33 * Eat My Daffodil 19 Sport 10m
34 Goddess Of Pox 16 Trad 12m
35 * Street Life Serenade 16 Sport 10m
36 Vanguard 19 Trad 11m
37 Lord Shiva 16 Trad 10m
38 * Pocatello Pump 22 Sport 10m
39 Hidden Faces 16 Sport 6m
1.1.1.3. Lower Tier 36 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.520351, -38.130929

Description:

Left section has short, snappy climbs in the 18 and 19 grade range. Some of the lower grade climbs have a lot of wear. All the longer climbs down to the right of the crag are of excellent value. All the routes are labelled.

Approach:

Follow track from carpark. First cliff you get to is the Lower Tier. Follow it right around to the far right for taller walls.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crooked Crack 13 Trad 8m
2 Rocksteady 16 Sport 7m
3 Ain't Nothin' To It 5 Top rope 7m
4 Yellowcake UF6 14 Top rope 10m
5 * Cawabunga

Overhanging start on good holds to short vertical face.

19 Sport 12m, 3
6 Oh My God

Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.

20 Sport 12m, 4
7 Career Opportunities

Follow crack straight up. Rock a bit friable.

17 Trad 12m
8 ** Exponential Decay

Tough start up thru scoop, then onto tricky vertical face.

19 Sport 12m, 4
9 ** Groove Thang

Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.

18 Sport 12m, 3
10 *** Out With The Boys

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

18 Sport 15m, 4
11 ** Wild Country Express

Go straight up thru overhang on small holds to face with good holds

19 Sport 15m, 4
12 Pockmark 16 Sport 14m
13 Mild Thing 16 Sport 14m
14 Ground Up Ethics

vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

18 Sport 14m, 5
15 * Facetious

Great holds all the way up vertical face.

16 Sport 14m, 4
16 Receding Hairline 12 Trad 14m
17 ** Gary's Arete

Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.

13 Sport 14m
18 Ride On Time

Good moves right of arete. Thinner than it looks.

16 Sport 14m, 4
19 * Cannibal Groove

Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing.

14 Sport 25m, 6
20 * Built For Comfort

Pumpy arete climb

19 Sport 15m, 5
21 * Haul Away

Great holds on steep face.

18 Sport 15m, 5
22 * Strange New Worlds

Great grade 16 corner climb. Crux is getting into the corner.

16 Sport 22m, 7
23 ** Space, The Final Frontier

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

18 Sport 23m, 7
24 *** Girls, Girls, Girls

Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.

17 Sport 20m, 7
25 *** The Grim Reamer

Face climb to awkward deep groove. Exit this to anchors.

16 Sport 15m, 6
26 * Fun Bags

Great climb over jutting overhangs on good holds

16 Sport 15m, 6
27 *** Virgin On Easy

Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.

17 Sport 22m, 9
28 *** Reamed By Percentage

Awesome climb up the arete, veer left under the roof, into the groove and up headwall. Best 18 here.

18 Sport 25m, 8
29 ** Game Over

Head straight up arete into groove on the right of roof (crux). Pumpy.

18 Sport 18m, 5
30 * Sweet As

Up the face and over the bulge at the top, all on good holds.

FA: Debbie Hinde

17 Sport 14m, 6
31 Graduation 17 Sport 18m
32 Baghdad Café 13 Sport 30m
33 * Fizzing At The Bung

Great wandering climb up face, over arete to left side and up to anchors.

16 Sport 25m, 8
34 * Green Spot

Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.

17 Sport 16m, 5
35 New Climb 15 Unknown 12m
36 ** Oliver's Twist

Best grade 15 here with good holds over bulges. The tag at the bottom has another name for it now.

15 Sport 12m, 5
1.1.1.4. South End 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.521093, -38.131515

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bismark 16 Unknown 20m
2 Corporate Ladder

Pumpy vertical face climb. Has a second pitch to the top but well overgrown above first anchors.

18 Sport 20m, 3
3 The Hood 15 Unknown 10m
4 Executive Stress 16 Unknown 10m
5 Chopped 10 Unknown 5m
6 Deb Arete 16 Unknown 8m
7 Shine On Through 15 Unknown 7m
8 Farmbake 17 Unknown 9m
9 The New Stone Age 14 Unknown 8m
10 Red Mecca 18 Unknown 10m
1.1.1.5. Boondock Rock 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Comeback Trail 19 Unknown 10m
1.1.1.6. The Slabs 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Think Pink 18 Unknown 20m
1.1.1.7. Owairaka Buttress 1 route in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.524074, -38.130192

Description:

South west facing with some 25m climbs. Not climbed very often but nice climbing there with 7 routes from grade 13 to 22. Has been recent rockfall there.

Approach:

Drive down to bottom of the hill from main road and at the bullring the Towers are immediately to the right. Park outside of the bullring. Parking here will give access to Swamp Wall and Frighteners Rock also.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Crown Of Thistles

Good start to steep bulge. Over bulge on good holds and up vertical face.

19 Sport 20m, 4
1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall 31 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.525408, -38.130930

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pickpocket 14 Sport 18m
2 * Matador 19 Trad 20m
3 Right Bastard 17 Trad 20m
4 * Performance Anxiety 22 Unknown 20m
5 * Sex, Money, Freaks 17 Unknown 12m
6 Hanvandangle 17 Unknown 20m
7 The Sod-All Wall 20 Unknown 15m
8 Jezt Oder Nie (now or never) 21 Trad 12m
9 Amigo Uno 14 Boulder 6m
10 Amigo Dos 13 Boulder 6m
11 Amigo Tres 17 Boulder 6m
12 * Angst (Anxiety)

Climb up the black streak to big ledge. Move right and get onto headwall with thin moves to the top. Great climb.

18 Sport 16m, 8
13 Crank Start

Mossy start to easy angle slab.

18 Sport 12m, 3
14 Burn Out 16 Unknown 12m
15 * Fingerpoppin' 18 Unknown 12m
16 Morrisey's Fringe 25 Sport 8m
17 Knuckles and Dust

Hard start to corner on tiny holds to the top.

19 Sport 12m, 3
18 Moose Bait 19 Sport 15m
19 * Cruel Shoes 20 Sport 15m
20 Honeytrap 24 Sport 12m
21 Au Revoir 25 Sport 8m
22 Mathew-Mark 15 Trad 7m
23 * Dirty Little Secret 20 Sport 9m
24 Ding's Chimney 12 Unknown 10m
25 Doctor Adder 18 Unknown 10m
26 *** Rapture 21 Sport 10m
27 * Hallmark 16 Trad 10m
28 Hung, Dogged, and Quartered 22 Sport 10m
29 * Counting The Days

Great technical slab climbing. No rest till the anchors.

18 Sport 15m, 4
30 *** Staining Greg's Undies 24 Sport 20m
31 ** Fashion Pumps 22 Sport 20m
1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully 11 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.526650, -38.131339

Description:

Continuation of Swamp Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jupitur 18 Sport 15m
2 ** Gleaming The Cube

Start on crimps, work your way up to good holds on arete to anchors.

17 Sport 12m
3 * Pupation 25 Sport 12m
4 * Journeyman 22 Sport 15m
5 * Take the A-Train

Another great 15. straight up steep face all on good holds.

15 Sport 10m, 3
6 * Blue Eyes For Dorsey 16 Sport 12m
7 Basin St Blues 15 Sport 10m
8 Mood Indigo 15 Sport 10m
9 * Mellowing To Brubeck

Hard 15. Follow right side of arete thru overhang to the top.

15 Sport 15m, 4
10 ** Married With Children

Great overhanging start. Up thru tough groove to top.

18 Sport 10m, 4
11 ** Exquisitely Bored 22 Sport 8m
1.1.1.10. The Towers Of Pain 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** De Sade 18 Unknown 10m
2 Trust Me (I know what I'm doing) 15 Unknown 10m
3 Justine 17 Unknown 12m
4 * La Dolce Vita 21 Unknown 10m
1.1.1.11. The Wailing Wall 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Von Sacher Masoch 18 Unknown 12m
2 * The Lion and the Cobra 18 Unknown 12m
3 * A Cure For Serpents 19 Unknown 15m
4 * Make My Day 18 Unknown 15m
5 Happy Ending 14 Unknown 10m
6 Cha Cha Loco 8 Unknown 6m
7 Go For It 15 Unknown 7m
1.1.1.12. Other Oversized Boulders 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hey Mister Algi Man 17 Unknown 8m
2 Matey Potatey 15 Unknown 5m

1.1.2. Froggatt Edge 139 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.525292, -38.153325

1.1.2.1. Bete Noir Wall 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.524776, -38.156956

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 In Your Face

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1999

18 Trad 20m
2 Ignimbrite 20 Sport 20m, 7
3 ** The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt

Great climb. Steep start up to ledge, thru steep section, over onto slab.

FA: Simon Cook

19 Sport 18m, 6
4 * Streetwise

Easier start to overhang, then onto slab to anchors.

FA: Bryce Martin, Roger Bays, 1990

19 Sport 15m, 6
5 ** Volcanic

Steep start to technical face on small pockets all the way to top.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1991

19 Sport 18m, 7
6 ** Sun Strike

Great arete climb. Up thru crack to start, thru short groove on to face. Get over right onto the arete and power up to mantle for anchors.

FA: Luke Newnham, Bryan Moore, Bryce Martin, 1990

21 Sport 15m, 7
7 * Ma Garta La Narta

FA: Dave Vass, 1991

25 Sport 15m, 4
8 ** Bete Noire

FA: Luke Newnham Bryce Martin, 1990

23 Unknown 15m, 5
9 * Back to the Future

hard back and footing to layback and anchor off trees. Good fun 15.

FA: Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt, 1999

16 Trad 15m
10 ** Safety Buffallo

FA: Tom Snelder, 1993

24 Sport 10m, 4
1.1.2.2. Hold On To Your Face Wall 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.524942, -38.156809

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E-Grade Get a Real Grading System

FA: Sarah Massey, Adrian Jones, 1998

15 Sport 10m, 4
2 Shane in the Red Ballon

Strong moves to get over bulge to easy climbing to top.

18 Sport 15m, 4
3 Direct Action 25 Sport 15m, 4
4 * Vroom Vroom Mentality

FA: Ton Snelder, 1992

26 Sport 15m
5 Going Ballistic 27 Sport 20m, 4
6 * Hungover

FA: Bryce Martin , Pete Manning , Simon Carr, 1993

20 Trad 20m
7 The Light's on But Nobody's Home

FA: Scott Moone

27 Sport 20m, 5
8 Maddog Wine

FA: Holger Moeller, 2003

29 Sport 20m, 5
9 Built to Last 29 Sport 20m, 6
10 * Double Leaning Jowler

FA: Tom Snelder

28 Sport 20m, 7
11 ** Hold On To Your Face

FA: Luke Newnham, 1992

26 Sport 20m, 6
12 Lanky 25 Sport 15m, 6
13 Higher Animals

FA: Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin, 1990

20 Sport 20m, 6
14 * Jim Bulger

Great climb. Climb up from right onto arete to get to big crack. Move left onto wall for mantle to small ledge. Up face on small holds to anchors.

FA: Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin

20 Sport 20m, 4
15 Down & Out

FA: Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery, 1999

20 Sport 15m, 5
16 A Blast from the Past

FA: Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 1999

16 Trad 15m
17 Reminiscing

FA: Bryce Martin, 1998

23 Trad 10m
18 Guba 22 Sport 10m, 4
1.1.2.3. Main Cliff 25 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.524427, -38.156891

Description:

Excellent varied climbing from Grade 14 to 28, mostly in the 18 to 20 range. Home of some mega classics.

Approach:

From main carpark walk back along track to cliff. 3 minutes walk.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Safe Playing

Awesome climbing on big pockets up the steep wall to delicate slab and onto arete to anchors. Pumpy.

FA: Bryce Martin , Dan Hawthorn, 1990

19 Sport 20m, 8
2 Roadweary

Nice climbing up vertical face to get into the groove (crux). Onto slab at top for a toe crunching experience you won't forget in a hurry.

FA: Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 1991

18 Sport 20m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Bonne Annee

As good (or hard) a grade 16 as you'll find anywhere. Steep start to technical slab climbing the whole way to the top on spaced bolts.

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1991

16 Sport 20m, 7
4 * Thunder Blaster

Nice face climbing up to ledge. Layback off steep arete to get to anchors.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

17 Sport 20m, 7
5 Power Pack

FA: 1998

18 Sport 8m, 3
6 Total Energy

Short slab on the tiniest of holds.

FA: 1998

19 Sport 13m, 5
7 Serife

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1990

16 Sport 20m, 5
8 Al Fresco

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1990

14 Sport 20m, 5
9 Climatic Conclusion

FA: Gerald Lanning, Bruce Culvert, 1990

17 Sport 20m, 7
10 * Climatic Extension

Technical slab to start followed by layback off steep headwall.

FA: 1998

19 Sport 25m, 11
11 *** Monsterpiece Theatre

FA: Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin , Bryan Moore, 1990

20 Sport 25m, 10
12 *** Terror Incognito

Classic. Get onto wall in corner. Climb arete then onto steep overhanging wall on great holds. Mantle over top to anchors

FA: Bryan Moore, Bryce Martin, 1990

18 Sport 25m, 8
13 ** Powder Queen

Another excellent grade 18 climb. Get up thru corner, mantle to ledge for tricky moves over bulge and on up to anchors.

FA: Bryce Martin, Gerald Lanning, 1990

18 Sport 20m, 7
14 ** Tulsa Time

Another must-do 19. Up to ledge, thru overhang onto face. Mantle to ledge for hard moves to anchors.

FA: Bryce Martin, Margot Harkness, 1990

19 Sport 20m, 7
15 One Man's Meat

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

14 Sport 15m, 5
16 Be Happy

Mantle up onto ledge. Layback all the way to the top.

19 Sport 15m, 4
17 ** Automatic Dour

FA: Chris Plant, 1993

27 Sport 15m, 4
18 Burn

FA: Scott Mooney, 1998

28 Sport 20m, 7
19 ** White Christmas

FA: Bryce Martin, Pete Manning, 1990

16 Sport 15m, 5
20 Blazing Away

Straight up steep overlaps and onto short face, and on up to anchors. Harder than you'd think.

FA: Bryce Martin Roger Bays, Dave Garrity, 1990

17 Sport 8m, 4
21 Wall Flower

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

17 Sport 8m, 4
22 One for the Boys Back Home

FA: Sarah Massey, Adrian Jones, 1998

19 Sport 15m, 5
23 Last Night of the Poms

FA: Sarah Massey, Adrian Jones, 1998

16 Sport 8m, 3
24 Spotty and Super Ted Strike Again 20 Sport 15m, 4
25 Gomjabbar

FA: Paul Burling

20 Sport 6m, 2
1.1.2.4. Heavenly Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Strife

FA: Scott Mooney, 1998

26 Sport 10m, 3
2 Highway to Hell 24 Sport 25m, 7
3 Right Next Door to Hell 19 Sport 12m, 4
4 * Jolly Green Giant

FA: Andrew Wilson, 1993

24 Sport 12m, 4
5 Aller

FA: David Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1990

15 Trad 10m
6 Hidden 16 Sport 8m, 3
7 What You See Is What You Get

FA: Bryan Moore, Bryce Martin, 1990

19 Sport 15m, 3
1.1.2.5. Echo Gully 4 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
1.1.2.5.1. MUAC Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad
1.1.2.6. Red Block 10 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.523243, -38.156079

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Slapstick

FA: Bryce Martin , Luke Newnham, 1990

22 Sport 10m, 4
2 * Turtle Power

FA: Bryce Martin , Luke Newnham, 1990

20 Sport 15m, 4
3 Ro Shambo

FA: Kerry Sutter, 1998

16 Sport 10m, 3
4 Appetite For Destruction

FA: Harry Turner, James Wright, 1992

20 Sport 10m, 3
5 ** Totalling Dad's Car

FA: Luke Newnham, 1992

26 Sport 8m, 3
6 Little Wee Baby Enormous

FA: Dave Vass

19 Sport 10m, 3
7 Mrs Enormous

FA: Dave Vass

22 Sport 10m, 3
8 Mr Enormous

FA: Dave Vass

22 Sport 10m, 3
9 Tiny Enormous

FA: Simon Barnett, 1998

20 Sport 10m, 2
10 Lad

Lad is on a free-standing pillar to the right of all these climbs.

FA: Andrew Wilson, Luke Hawken

23 Sport 6m, 2
1.1.2.7. Slug Wall 11 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.523349, -38.155951

Description:

Slab climbing in the lower grades 14 to 16, with a couple of steeper grade 17 offerings.

Approach:

From carpark head straight across grassy area to the right, and up the gully. 1 minute walk.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Firebug Pete

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 1998

16 Sport 10m, 3
2 Red Block Chimney

FA: John Smith, 1990

10 Trad 10m
3 Eric

Short, vertical face. Harder than it looks with a ton of bolts.

17 Sport 8m, 5
4 Snarf

FA: Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 1990

17 Sport 10m, 3
5 Pyro Pete

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

17 Sport 18m, 6
6 Ninja

FA: Bruce Culvert, 1991

15 Sport 18m, 6
7 Pyromania

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

16 Sport 18m, 6
8 Teenage Mutant

FA: Markus Ashton, Ben Ashton, Annette Ashton, 1991

14 Sport 18m, 6
9 Spiny Norman

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

16 Sport 18m, 6
10 Slug

FA: 1998

17 Sport 15m, 6
11 Firestarter

FA: 1998

17 Sport 18m, 6
1.1.2.8. Bulge Gully 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Are You a Happy Cow? 22 Sport 8m, 3
1.1.2.9. Animal Biscuit Valley 40 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.522754, -38.155564

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Retour

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1990

12 Unknown 15m, 5
2 Revenge of the Gnomes 17 Unknown 16m
3 Gnomalised 19 Unknown 18m
4 Gnomality 23 Unknown 18m
5 Jeannie 24 Unknown 16m
1.1.2.9.1. Little Spurt Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.9.2. Bring Your Daughter Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.9.3. Honey Comb Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.9.4. The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.9.5. The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.9.6. The Bits 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.9.7. Da Cave 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
1.1.2.10. The Beer Garden 9 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.522216, -38.155540

Description:

Mostly good starts to faces covered in lichen. Some have been cleaned but generally not climbed on enough to keep lichen away.

Approach:

From main carpark go thru gate towards Animal Biscuit, cut left off track and the climbs start at the back of Animal Biscuit and head to cliffs straight across small gully. 2 minutes walk.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tetris 23 Sport 7m, 3
2 Redback

FA: Eddie

26 Sport 8m, 3
3 Star Star Zipper Zipper

FA: James Wright

20 Sport 15m, 5
4 Summer Song for Scotty

Hard start up vertical wall, then over onto delicate slab. Licheny slab that has been cleaned now.

FA: Tony Sargent

17 Sport 12m, 5
5 He Mans Revenge

FA: Scott Mooney, Paul Burling

21 Sport 12m, 5
6 * Falling Debris

Overhanging start on good holds to delicate slab (cleaned of lichen). Tricky moves to get to anchors after slab.

FA: Debbie Hindes

18 Sport 12m, 5
7 * Behind the Line

Get up thru corner onto face for great pumpy climbing to top on mostly good holds.

FA: James Wright

17 Sport 15m, 6
8 Supervixen

FA: Matt Tait

26 Sport 15m, 6
9 Snails and Ginger Beer

FA: Margot Harkness

20 Sport 15m, 5
1.1.2.11. Pupuke Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.521458, -38.156592

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hi, How You Do'in

FA: Dave Vass

25 Sport 10m, 3
2 * Greed

FA: Bryce Martin, 1990

22 Sport 8m, 3
3 Pupuke Centre

FA: Bruce Culvert, 1990

15 Sport 8m, 3
4 * Lady Unwelcome

FA: Anne-Marie Arts, 1990

10 Sport 8m, 3

1.1.3. Sheridan Hills 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.491969, -38.143582

Description:

Tall pocketed ignimbrite cliffs here ranging from 20m to 35m. Flying Cow and the Chunderossa buttresses are the most popular sectors with fantastic climbing ranging in grade from 15 to 24. Some of the bolting seems close but the rock can be quite soft. Most of the other cliffs here are equipped with old naked bolts.

Approach:

Park on Seafund Road near gate, but not in front of it. Walk straight across the paddock towards the obvious pillar and down thru another gate to the crag. 7 minutes walk. Make sure the crag is not closed for lambing or stock and shut gates behind you. This is private land so must be respected.

1.1.3.1. Chunderosa Buttress 18 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.493180, -38.143387

Description:

Fantastic climbing on good holds.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chicken 20 Sport 6m
2 Waiting For Dave 17 Sport 8m
3 ** Horus

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1991

15 Sport 20m
4 *** Arms Control 24 Sport 20m
5 ** Ball and Chain

Awesome. Up thru the vertical face and across to big rest next to cave. Power on up steep overhang on good holds.

19 to 20 Sport 25m, 8
6 *** Cry Wolf

Left trending line, with hard, balancy crux move on steep ground

23 Sport 25m
7 ** Canard

Great climb. Straight up shallow groove and arete, mantle across to ledge, then delicate moves back right and up thru corner to anchors.

18 Sport 20m, 6
8 ** Galapagos

Great climb on imposing overhanging wall. Good holds all the way with long runout near top, overcome by slinging chickenhead out left.

20 Sport 18m, 6
9 * Hebe

Straight up steep arete until halfway then onto slab to the top.

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1991

17 Sport 30m, 15
10 *** School Bus Route

One of the best here. Graded 19 in the guidebook, but could easily be mistaken for a 21. Up thin face to long overhang on good holds. Pumpy with no moves harder than 19 but it just keeps coming at you.

FA: Bryce Martin,Cliff Ellery, Dean Maxwell, 1991

{US} AU:19 Sport 35m, 8
11 * Hotter Then a Hot Thing

FA: Ross McGarva, Bryce Martin, 1991

20 Sport 30m
12 * Aurum 18 Sport 25m
13 * Carpe Diem

Great, long 17. Follow the bolts on good holds to a bit thinner section then mantle to anchors.

FA: Dave Garrity,Bryce Martin, Bolke Water, 1991

17 Sport 30m, 7
14 * Hannah Louise

Up thru groove over bulge and crack to get to anchors awkwardly on facing wall.

FA: Bryce Martin,John Jamieson, Bev Birnie, 1991

18 Sport 25m, 8
15 ** Curly Mop 20 Sport 25m
16 * Stolen Moments 20 Sport 20m
17 Burning Rain 16 Sport 22m
18 Easy Weesy 15 Sport 20m
1.1.3.2. Flying Cow Buttress 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.493752, -38.143125

Description:

First crag on arrival. 20m with mostly easier climbs and a good 20. Two new climbs on north end both about grade 16.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pigs In Space

Easy climbing up thru the caves to steep overhang at top.

FA: Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 1991

20 Sport 15m, 10
2 * Dead Cow Groove

Easy 15 and great for first lead with bolts from ground up.

15 Sport 15m, 10
3 Pani Para Chha

Nice climbing over a series of bulges. Two new grade 16's to the right of it.

17 Sport 15m, 10
4 Quacky Duck

No bolts

18 Sport 15m
1.1.3.3. Hidden Cirque 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cats Cradle 18 Sport 10m
2 * Heading For the Light 21 Sport 12m
3 Eat My Shorts 19 Sport 10m
4 ** Buzzy Bee 15 Sport 10m
5 Black Streak 19 Sport 18m
6 * The Taste Goes On 20 Sport 12m
1.1.3.4. Meteors Buttress 2 routes in Area
Summary:
Boulder and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Terrapin 16 Sport 12m
2 Tortoise 10 Boulder 12m
1.1.3.5. Crows Nest Pinnacle 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hook Line and Sinker 17 Sport 8m
2 Monsoon Madness 13 Sport 10m
3 * Double Jeopardy 14 Sport 13m
1.1.3.6. Western Wall 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Holier-Than-Thou 15 Sport 8m
2 Wholesome 16 Sport 8m
3 ** Fige 21 Sport 35m
4 Hello Darkness 15 Sport 10m
5 Rata Rout 16 Sport 12m
6 * Chevre

Long meandering climb up right side of buttress to get over to left side of arete and to the top.

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1991

16 Sport 35m, 10
7 Short Arete 16 Sport 8m
8 Still Red 15 Sport 6m
9 Shirty Arete 15 Sport 12m
10 Boot Wall 16 Sport 12m
11 * Canadian Grouse 22 Sport 25m

1.1.4. Lost Lagoon 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Phenol Phailings 18 Unknown 20m

1.1.5. Bosch 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.530552, -38.169134

1.1.5.1. Cabbage Tree Gully 4 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Et Tu Brute 19 Unknown 22m
2 Out of Date 13 Unknown 10m
3 * Turtle on a Stick 21 Unknown 8m
4 * Pro Rata 18 Unknown 12m
1.1.5.2. Leaning Wall 7 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Delinquent Daddy 22 Unknown 20m
2 The Bendon Factor 19 Unknown 15m
3 Puppy Love 16 Unknown 15m
4 Late Lunch 15 Unknown 15m
5 Infidal 18 Unknown 15m
6 Berlie 23 Unknown 20m
7 Despreate Dean 20 Unknown 15m
1.1.5.3. Bridge Buttress 6 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mealmate 17 Unknown 7m
2 Commitment 14 Unknown 15m
3 * Quatlamba 16 Unknown 15m
4 Blood and Bone 17 Unknown 18m
5 * Tendon Factor 20 Unknown 15m
6 Right Plonker 20 Unknown 15m
1.1.5.4. Kanuka Gully 4 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 John Doe 22 Unknown 8m
2 Learning to Crawl 16 Unknown 15m
3 Packacrack 14 Unknown 12m
4 Letospermum 14 Unknown 20m
1.1.5.5. Intermediate Buttress 2 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Domestic Bliss 21 Unknown 15m
2 Heavenly Bliss 20 Unknown 12m

1.1.6. Smiths Rock 143 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall 36 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Active Control

FA: Cliff Ellery / Bryce Martin, 1992

20 Unknown 20m
2 Bring the Family 23 Unknown 20m
3 *** Mr and Mrs Fork 26 Unknown 18m
4 Gatecrasher 17 Unknown 18m
5 ** Jungle

FA: Richard Bull, 1997

26 Unknown 18m
6 Picnic With My Caddy 17 Unknown 18m
7 Violet 27 Unknown 18m
8 Poons Paradise 18 Unknown 15m
9 Freeman 21 Unknown 18m
10 Call It a Day 18 Unknown 20m
11 Mud and Glory 16 Unknown 15m
12 Yuk Soup 16 Unknown 20m
13 Lonely Edge 20 Unknown 20m
14 ** Steel Caps 16 Unknown 25m
15 ** Twixt Light and Shade 17 Unknown 20m
16 Just Honey 16 Unknown 20m
17 Milk and Honey 17 Unknown 20m
18 Anniversary 15 Unknown 15m
19 Lounge Lizard 16 Unknown 18m
20 Trouble 21 Unknown 18m
21 T1 15 Unknown 18m
22 ** Rhinoplasty

FA: craig miller

18 Unknown 18m
23 * All the Tired Horses 18 Unknown 18m
24 All Along the Watchtower 19 Unknown 18m
25 Another Roadsie Attraction 23 Unknown 18m
26 Stone Free 21 Unknown 18m
27 The Hanging Arete 19 Unknown 18m
28 Rat on Rye 18 Unknown 18m
29 Skin and Blister 17 Unknown 18m
30 Mother Hubbard 18 Unknown 18m
31 Joint Effort 17 Unknown 18m
32 * Hugh The Anklebiter 15 Unknown 10m
33 * 101 17 Unknown 10m
34 * Love Don't Come Easy 20 Sport 22m
35 Frontal Attack 18 Unknown 15m
36 Nobbus Maximus 23 Unknown 6m
1.1.6.2. Dry Valley 20 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 You Get What You Need 20 Unknown 20m
2 Dry Reach 22 Unknown 15m
3 ** Three's Enough 20 Unknown 12m
4 BRRM BRRM 22 Unknown 8m
5 Lost Hammer Groove 18 Unknown 12m
6 ** Java Jive 19 Unknown 15m
7 Desire 17 Unknown 15m
8 Volte Face 18 Unknown 10m
9 A Nice Pair 20 Unknown 20m
10 Last Splash 25 Unknown 15m
11 Fugley 12 Unknown 15m
12 A Cheese Sandwich 15 Unknown 6m
13 Jam Sandwich 18 Unknown 6m
14 * To Be Married 15 Unknown 8m
15 Too Dark Two Clip 16 Unknown 15m
16 * Pointy Beast 17 Unknown 12m
17 ** Team Machine 17 Unknown 12m
18 100% Acrylic 23 Unknown 10m
19 Walters Boots 20 Unknown 15m
20 * Short, Steep and Sweet 20 Unknown 8m
1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll 20 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Walk On

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1993

19 Unknown 12m
2 * Blue Skies from Rain

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

20 Unknown 15m
3 All I Want is to Get Off 22 Unknown 15m
4 Only Thinking

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

18 Unknown 15m
5 Rain Rain Go Away

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

17 Unknown 15m
6 * Upon this Hill Tonight

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

21 Unknown 15m
7 ** Left Left Diagonal

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1993

17 Unknown 12m
8 ** Twenty Ten

FA: Cliff Ellery, 1997

26 Unknown 12m
9 Right Left Dianonal

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1993

14 Unknown 12m
10 Run Out

FA: Bryce Martin / Dave Garrity; Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

16 Unknown 15m
11 Walk Off

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

15 Unknown 15m
12 30 Pieces of Silver

FA: David Garrity / Bryce Martin, 1997

14 Unknown 8m
13 My Two Friends

FA: Bryce Martin / Dave Garrity; Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

15 Unknown 7m
14 Karel

FA: Bryce Martin / Dave Garrity; Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

18 Unknown 12m
15 Cookie Monster 12 Unknown 8m
16 Little Jack Horror 20 Unknown 8m
17 Ellen

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

13 Unknown 7m
18 Richards Unfinished Project 8 Unknown 7m
19 Craig Would Like This

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

12 Unknown 6m
20 Cliffs Crack

FA: Cliff Ellery (Solo), 1997

12 Unknown 5m
1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters 18 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sinacle

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

20 Unknown 8m
2 * Nigh Eve

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

16 Unknown 8m
3 Accessable

FA: Cliff Ellery, 1997

14 Unknown 8m
4 East Face

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

19 Unknown 8m
5 Made in the Shade 21 Unknown 8m
6 ** Indian Gift 18 Unknown 8m
7 Trail Blazing

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

16 Unknown 8m
8 Tesa

FA: Bryce Martin / Craig Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

15 Unknown 8m
9 Dogs Do It 16 Unknown 8m
10 * Vermilion

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

18 Unknown 10m
11 * Cowards Haul

FA: Bryce Martin / CLiff Ellery, 1997

18 Unknown 12m
12 Zizzer-Zoofing

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

20 Unknown 15m
13 One for the Road

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity/ Micheal Camilleri, 1997

20 Unknown 15m
14 ** Black Dreams

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

19 Unknown 18m
15 Rip Shit or Bust

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

19 Unknown 10m
16 Home on Monday

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity, 1997

18 Unknown 12m
17 Happy 12th Birthday

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity / Craig Martin, 1997

16 Unknown 12m
18 Nothing Void

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

17 Unknown 20m
1.1.6.5. Pinnacle Lower Tier 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bombastic Jazz Style

FA: Lydia Bradey, 1993

20 Unknown 20m
2 * 900 Foot Jesus

FA: Ton Snelder, 1993

23 Unknown 25m
3 Lumberjack

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1992

16 Unknown 18m
4 Honeycomb

FA: Bryce Martin / David Garrity/ Micheal Camilleri, 1993

17 Unknown 20m
5 The Rubber Room 18 Unknown 17m
6 * Xtra Nyce

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1997

17 Unknown 18m
7 Sussex Street

FA: Bryce Martin / Cliff Ellery, 1998

19 Unknown 12m
8 Twenty, Tree, Rock

FA: Dave Garrity / David Hood, 1998

16 Unknown 40m
1.1.6.6. Little Face 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Black Streak 15 Unknown 6m
2 Pikelet 14 Unknown 6m
3 Iains Climb 15 Unknown 8m
4 * All Show 17 Unknown 12m
1.1.6.7. End Wall 15 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dry Reach 22 Unknown 15m
2 Hegemony of Determinism 19 Unknown 15m
3 * Dry Wretch 17 Unknown 16m
4 Hair Shirts and Itchy Feet 18 Unknown 12m
5 Great Expertations 17 Unknown 12m
6 Playing Possum 16 Unknown 12m
7 Impossumable 17 Unknown 12m
8 The infamous No. 3 Hex Climb 17 Unknown 14m
9 * Thread the Possum 14 Unknown 15m
10 Fever 21 Unknown 15m
11 Tweenty 16 Unknown 15m
12 Cow Phobic 16 Unknown 15m
13 Last Tango in Kihikihi 20 Unknown 15m
14 Scot's Route 16 Unknown 15m
15 The Wave 22 Unknown 15m
1.1.6.8. Southend Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheddarmasters Choice 21 Unknown 10m
2 ** Juan Pacenta 20 Unknown 12m
3 Thousand Doller Crack 16 Unknown 10m
4 Woolly Wolf 20 Unknown 12m
5 Threes a Crowd 17 Unknown 8m
6 The Great Gorse Grab 20 Unknown 12m
7 Finishing School 24 Unknown 10m
8 * Two's Company 21 Unknown 5m
1.1.6.9. Back of Beyound 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Itsy Bitsy Spider 16 Unknown 15m
2 ** Is Sex Enough? 20 Unknown 10m
3 *** Fast Frog 20 Unknown 15m
4 Unfinished Project 22 Unknown 20m
1.1.6.10. Lone Star Pinnacle 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown Route 20 Unknown 12m
1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond 9 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 TLC 13 Unknown 12m
2 Seek The Hieghts 14 Unknown 12m
3 Swiss Cheese 15 Unknown 12m
4 Down the Groove 17 Unknown 10m
5 Over the Top 16 Unknown 5m
6 How Many Roads 16 Unknown 10m
7 * Is Six Enough? 18 Unknown 8m
8 Cracking the Whip 16 Unknown 8m
9 Unknown Route 1 18 Unknown 12m

1.1.7. Bayleys Road 77 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.506565, -38.184440

Description:

Four different walls here all on sharp, pocketed ignimbrite. Mostly shorter climbs but enjoyable for a quiet day away from the main crags.

1.1.7.1. River Wall 22 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.507684, -38.187372

Description:

Good climbs mostly on sharp pockets grades15 to 24. Sun all morning. Whole set of new 16's and 17's added to the far right end.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Edgehog 22 Unknown 12m
2 Unknown Route

Grade 18 on left end of River Wall next to azure Pe. Short overhang.

? Sport 8m, 3
3 Born to Fly

FA: Tony Sargeant, 2002

{US} AU:21 Unknown 12m, 5
4 Azure Pe 15 Sport 15m
5 Raw bacon and scotch

second pitch to azure Pe

FA: J McKeever, 2003

17 Sport 4
6 * Prodigal Surfer

Great. Slightly overhanging on good holds to mantle up to anchors.

18 Sport 15m, 6
7 Get your hands off its coates

second pitch of prodigal surfer

{US} AU:18 Sport 6m, 2
8 Broom Broom Mentality

Up the right side on good holds to move across face to left and thinner moves to anchors.

18 Sport 10m, 4
9 * Swansong 20 Sport 10m
10 Won't Be Long

up thru corner and crack to the anchors halfway up.

17 Sport 12m, 4
11 20/20 20 Sport 15m
12 Recipe Man and the Industrial Opera 24 Sport 18m
13 ** Finger Lick in Good 24 Trad 20m
14 Blind as Bats

No hangers on bolts.

17 Sport 10m
15 * Rapid Stuffed Toys in Lycra

Great climb. Weave up face on thin holds, get over bulge and make way up vertical face to anchors.

20 Sport 15m, 5
16 Attack of the Killer Oven Gloves

Easy 16 on sharp holds.

16 Sport 10m, 3
17 Sharpe Arete

Easy. Stay on arete to get full enjoyment.

FA: Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 1992

19 Sport 12m, 3
18 Stuffed Toys with Attitude 21 Sport 12m
19 Cocoa Kid and the Black and Decker Wimp 16 Sport 12m
20 * Totally Tuff

2nd pitch of cocoa kids (16). Pumpy overhang to the top

20 Sport 10m, 4
21 Kathmandu Kid 17 Sport 10m
22 Bivouav Boy 15 Sport 10m
1.1.7.2. Monday's Wall 18 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.504814, -38.183233

Description:

Short climbs on sharp rock, mostly vertical. Grades 10 to 23. Good winter crag with full sun all morning. Some routes have old style bolts with no hangers. There is a new small crag further past this wall.

Approach:

Walk past River Wall along stream to gate.Thru gate to next paddock and head left over brow. Head down to far right corner, thru another gate and Monday Wall is by itself in the middle of the next paddock out left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gumboot Arete 15 Sport 4m
2 * Gillians Artete

Thin climbing up arete. Harder than it looks.

16 Sport 8m, 3
3 Rawhide 19 Unknown 10m
4 * Spring Thor 18 Unknown 10m
5 Blue Peter 20 Sport 12m
6 Cruising for a Bruising

Up thru corner onto right faec and to anchors.

19 Sport 19m, 5
7 Can't Say No to Offers Like This

Nice vertical climbing to big mantle at top.

18 Sport 12m, 5
8 * Take the Money and Run 19 Trad 12m
9 Anne

Small pockets all the way to anchors set further back.

19 Sport 12m, 5
10 ** No Work, No Rain, No Worries

Bolts in terrible condition.

17 Sport 10m, 3
11 * Mad Bob's an Englishman

Highest climb on this wall. Goes up face thru the corner up to anchors. Ton of bolts.

17 Sport 18m, 10
12 * Vegetarian Chainsaw Massacre 15 Trad 15m
13 Running on Empty 17 Trad 10m
14 Haemmorrhoid Heaven 23 Unknown 10m
15 * Clip, Climb, Crash 15 Unknown 10m
16 Pyroclastic Possum 18 Unknown 10m
17 ** Nose Route 23 Unknown 10m
18 * One Bolt Wonder 15 Unknown 10m
1.1.7.3. New Wall 30 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grandmaster's Edge

Arete left of Still Crazy crack, to it's anchors. Mainly on the right, but on to left side around half height. 5 bolts, to chain anchors

FA: @andrew1960,@ccrichie,David Offner,@blackab,@f_abe,@alondahari

21 Sport 12m, 5
2 Still Crazy 15 Unknown 20m
3 Yellow Arete 18 Unknown 12m
4 ** Double Trouble 20 Unknown 15m
5 Jubilation Crack 21 Unknown 15m
6 Don't Know 19 Unknown 15m
7 Indecisive 21 Unknown 15m
8 ** Cliffs Climb 19 Unknown 15m
9 Beg to Differ 18 Unknown 15m
10 ** Silver Service 17 Unknown 15m
11 * Gourmet Delight 20 Unknown 15m
12 ** Naturally 19 Unknown 15m
13 Preservatives Added 20 Unknown 15m
14 Yertle the Turtle 20 Unknown 12m
15 Flight of the Goodwin 19 Unknown 8m
16 Redemption 17 Unknown 10m
17 VA-VODE 18 Unknown 12m
18 ** Monkey Lust 21 Unknown 12m
19 Hyrdoslide 17 Unknown 15m
20 Rolling Thunder 21 Unknown 15m
21 Consolation Crack 15 Unknown 12m
22 * Big, My Favorite Size 24 Unknown 15m
23 Te Ika A Maui Unknown
24 Left Rib 14 Unknown 9m
25 Right Rib 16 Unknown 9m
26 Dogus Knobus 19 Unknown 15m
27 Helen 22 Unknown 45m
28 Swine Werst 17 Unknown 45m
29 Le Pmmeaux Du Chieu 20 Unknown 45m
30 R18 18 Unknown 5m
1.1.7.4. Roadside 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.506829, -38.188254

Description:

Tower right next to road on left of carpark. Shorter new climbs around to west side of wall.

Approach:

3 minutes walk from carpark.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Suck it and See 23 Sport 12m
2 ** Gulp

Interesting climb back and footing the whole way up chimney, getting out onto face then up to anchors.

18 Sport 20m, 6
3 ** Post Funeral Blues

Start right of arete, move over left and straight up on tiny holds the whole way.

{US} AU:21 Sport 22m, 9
4 * Swallow

Great corner climb following crack to roof, move left then on up to anchors.

17 Trad 15m
5 Gobble 17 Trad 15m
6 * Broken Promise

Overhang start to short tricky face.

20 Sport 8m, 2
7 Afterthough 16 Trad 8m

1.1.8. Gower 33 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.507680, -38.143722

1.1.8.1. The Pinnacles 2 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boco 17 Unknown 10m
2 Bimbo 16 Unknown 10m
1.1.8.2. The Lower Wall 9 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 User Friendly 17 Unknown 15m
2 Sly Bandits 19 Unknown 17m
3 Across the River 18 Unknown 17m
4 Double Trouble 22 Unknown 19m
5 Hop, Skip and Jump 16 Unknown 15m
6 ** Lex Talionus 23 Unknown 17m
7 The Good Life 17 Unknown 17m
8 Daisy Chain 19 Unknown 12m
9 Goodbye Winter 18 Unknown 8m
1.1.8.3. Wacky Wall 12 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lost Gumboot Groove 17 Unknown 15m
2 Dirty Dave Does it Again 14 Unknown 10m
3 Handle With Care 18 Unknown 12m
4 Summit Lust 18 Unknown 15m
5 * Jacinta Gilbert 16 Unknown 15m
6 Mates Rates 19 Unknown 15m
7 Back n Foot 16 Unknown 20m
8 ** Three Day Arete 26 Unknown 15m
9 2 Hard, 3 Bolts 24 Unknown 8m
10 * Sunset Slab 17 Unknown 20m
11 Declination 16 Unknown 20m
12 * Inclination 18 Unknown 20m
1.1.8.4. The Forks 10 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Group Dynamics 20 Unknown 20m
2 Way Out 14 Unknown 15m
3 *** As Good As It Gets 22 Unknown 20m
4 ** Crossing the line 22 Unknown 20m
5 ** Vying for Space 22 Unknown 20m
6 ** A Bolt to No Where 22 Unknown 22m
7 Abandoned Progect 29 Unknown 22m
8 Supa Mira Fiori 26 Unknown 15m
9 Slacker 15 Unknown 15m
10 Sucker 20 Unknown 20m

1.1.9. Halls 26 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall 12 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunday Voices 18 Unknown 15m
2 K2 17 Unknown 15m
3 Placemaker 17 Unknown 15m
4 * Riverdance 21 Unknown 15m
5 In the Footsteps of Dave 16 Unknown 15m
6 * Buckets of Rain 16 Unknown 15m
7 * Backdoor Beauty 16 Unknown 15m
8 Birdy Hop 19 Unknown 15m
9 * Fourteen at Most 20 Unknown 15m
10 Breathe In 15 Unknown 15m
11 Mudlark 16 Unknown 15m
12 Pretending 15 Unknown 15m
1.1.9.2. Waterfall Wall 5 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bite the Bullet 19 Unknown 12m
2 Keep on Keep on 18 Unknown 15m
3 * Pups Plaything 17 Unknown 15m
4 ** Snakeline 18 Unknown 15m
5 Ding Dong Hell 18 Unknown 10m
1.1.9.3. The Arches 7 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Archery 22 Unknown 15m
2 ** Arch Rival 24 Unknown 12m
3 Massey Route 1 ?? Unknown
4 Massey Route 2 ?? Unknown
5 Massey Route 3 ?? Unknown
6 Arches 17 Unknown 40m
7 Gauche mais pas maladroit 18 Unknown 25m
1.1.9.4. Crack Wall 1 route in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Heavenly Crack 17 Unknown 15m
1.1.9.5. Carpark 1 route in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pretty In Pink 15 Unknown 10m

1.1.10. Lake Waipapa 73 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.686815, -38.292046

1.1.10.1. Main Cliff 45 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope
1.1.10.1.1. Far Left Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Wall on the far left at the end of the track

Approach:

Walk left from the main cliff through a little gully.

1.1.10.1.2. Millenium Wall 9 routes in Area
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope
1.1.10.1.3. The Arch 9 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
1.1.10.1.4. Wall of Fate 23 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport
1.1.10.2. Galaxy Wall 17 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doing it at Dawn 24 Sport 20m
2 No Country for Old Men 24 Sport 20m
3 Easy Lay 22 Trad 20m
4 Hands Christian 23 Sport 20m
5 Big Bird

Once you climb it you wont criticize the number of bolts.

18 Sport 20m
6 Defiance 23 Sport 25m, 8
7 Desperation 26 Sport 25m
8 Short n Sweet 17 Trad 10m
9 Dani 20 Trad 10m
10 Hybrid Heavin 19 Mixed 20m, 2
11 Handsome Julio

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

24 Sport 20m
12 Handsome Julio Direct 28 Sport 20m
13 Baby Driver

The bolted line up the arete takes a few interesting twists and turns, has more than one crux and will keep you thinking if this is about your grade. Deserves a star.

FA: Jamie Baron, 2011

16 Sport 20m
14 ** Star Gazer

Up the left face and into the overhung corner to gain the ledge, then easier climbing to the belay. Cams or wires may be useful between the 3rd and 4th bolt. First ascent was without the 2nd bolt.

FA: Richard Knott, 2001

18 Sport 18m, 5
15 * Galaxy Grovel

FA: Richard Knott, 2001

21 Sport 15m, 4
16 Twinkle Twinkle

Traverse from far right up a series of ledges to the belay of Galaxy Grovel.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2011

14 Sport 20m
17 TE6A 20 Sport 20m, 5
1.1.10.3. Pipeline Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

Down river of the dam, the track intersects with this cliff face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Millennium Ways {US} AU:19 Trad 10m
2 Carless Days {US} AU:19 Mixed 10m, 2
3 The Grimm Reaper {US} AU:19 Trad 18m
4 Wiggle Wiggle {US} AU:20 Trad 30m
5 ** Synergy {US} AU:20 Trad 28m
1.1.10.4. Crack Wall 0 routes in Cliff
Description:

WALL CURRENTLY CLOSED.

1.1.10.5. The Car Park Wall 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

There is NO climbing on the cliffs near the car park or power station. To ensure access to the other cliffs in the area, please do not climb on these cliffs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rays Crack 23 Unknown 15m
2 Birthday Girl 13 Unknown 15m
3 Pretty in Pink 15 Unknown 15m
1.1.10.6. Lakeside Wall 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Industrial Action 22 Unknown 22m
1.1.10.7. Graemes' Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fallen Angel {FR} AU:17 Unknown 25m
2 Harvey The Wallbanger 21 Unknown 20m

1.2. Te Kuiti 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.163732, -38.342441

1.2.1. Mangaokewa 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.196335, -38.360312

Description:

Limestone climbing just south of Te Kuiti. There sheltered climbing for those wet days, and more exposed climbs for enjoying the sun.

Helmets are strongly advised, due to the likely nature of rock fall.

Approach:

Cross the bridge at the car park. Follow the track right and then double back up the hill. Turn right at the cairn and follow the steep track to the 'Coliseum' approx 25mins.

Where To Stay:

There is free camping in the car park. There are bathrooms and fire pits available.

1.2.1.1. The Parking Lot Wall 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Miss Josaphine 21 Sport 6
2 Paid in Full 25 Sport 7
3 ** Meadze Arete 24 Sport 7
1.2.1.2. The Waterfall Area 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Totara and the Waterfall 18 Sport 7
2 Crazy Head 19 Sport 3
3 *** Fond Memories of Rattlesnake Mountain 20 Sport 7
4 A "maid"ing Grace 18 Sport 3
1.2.1.3. The Headwall 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rumble in the Jungle 16 Sport 5
2 ** La Ventata de Vida 23 Sport 5
1.2.1.4. Area Beyond the Stairway 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gorrillas in the Mist 18 Sport 3
2 Neglected Monos 17 Sport 4
3 No Plates Like Home 17 Sport 4
1.2.1.5. Wall of Teeth 16 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Teonanactl 23 Sport 4
2 * Shredder's revenge 22 Sport 3
3 Eleusis 17 Mixed 1
4 *** Angry American 18 Sport 6
5 * Hokey Poke Me 19 Sport 4
6 ** Life's Two Short 17 Sport 2
7 Belly of the Beast 23 Unknown
8 Summertime 23 Unknown
9 * Medusa 22 Sport 3
10 ** Sirens 26 Sport 4
11 * Yellow Snow 22 Sport 3
12 * Subterranean 23 Unknown
13 Master of My Own World 28 Unknown
14 * Little Wonder Sport 3
15 * A Finger in the Nose 21 Sport 3
16 * Hot Harissa 25 Sport 2
1.2.1.6. The Colesseum 19 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Giving Up the Good Fight 21 Sport 3
2 Burnface Boy 19 Sport 3
3 * Punk Rockers 19 Sport 6
4 * Diamond in the Rough 20 Sport 5
5 * Skolzinseshin 15 Sport 2
6 * Frogamatrix 19 Sport 6
7 * Dogamatrix 17 Sport 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * When Cavers go Climbing 21 Sport 5
9 ** French Ethics 15 Sport 5
10 * Trojan Kat 20 Sport 4
11 * Storming the Gates of Troy 20 Sport 4
12 Moonshine 23 Sport 5
13 ** One, two, Skip a Few 21 Sport 7
14 Inflatable Gladiators 17 Sport 5
15 Jess's Staircase

The obvious route with a fixed-line connecting the bolts. Used as access to the second tier.

14 Sport 4
16 Two Up 17 Sport 2
17 * Enter the Arena 22 Sport 5
18 ** Weapons of Pleasure 21 Sport 3
19 *** One for the Empire 27 Sport 8
1.2.1.7. The Grandstands 4 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Prokarstination 22 Sport 6
2 *** Cimera 26 Sport 7
3 ** Power of the Pink 25 Unknown 6
4 ** Space Cowboy 24 Sport 5
1.2.1.8. The Cheap Seats 9 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Midnight Maurauders 16 Sport 3
2 H.R. Puffin'stuff 17 Sport 3
3 * Haere Atu 20 Sport 3
4 * Sanjuro 28 Sport 3
5 * No Shame 23 Sport 4
6 * The Pretender 23 Sport 5
7 Muzzifunsta 18 Sport 4
8 Bolting 101

Climb the prominent arete right of 'Muzzifunsta'. Much easier after the second bolt.

20 Sport 11m, 3
9 * Johnny P

Climb the face to prominent features out left. Mantle to anchors.

17 Sport 11m, 3
1.2.1.9. The Gully 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Karl the Karaka 18 Sport 3
2 Abi in her Bonnet 19 Sport 3
1.2.1.10. The Aviary 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Votive 22 Sport 3
2 * Ying Yang 16 Sport 3
3 ** Walking on Sunshine 15 Sport 3
4 * Automus Klyde Frog 17 Sport 2
5 *** No Kitty, Bad Kitty 18 Sport 5
6 ** Polly Prissy Pants 19 Sport 5
1.2.1.11. The Bat Cave 0 routes in Boulder

1.3. Waitomo 188 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.067326, -38.245017

1.3.1. Te Anga 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Marakopa Chimney 16 Unknown 30m

1.3.2. Mangaotaki Road 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Back On The Road 18 Unknown 20m
2 * Shogun 16 Unknown 45m
3 Stink Crack 15 Unknown 25m

1.3.3. The Airstrip 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.025517, -38.259956

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great limestone bouldering 2.5 hours south of Auckland.

Description:

Fantastic limestone bouldering set amongst the karst landscape that is Waitomo. There is a bountiful number of easy bouldering for those that have just started climbing, or for those feeling rusty. There is a great diversity of climbing styles from roof problems, to technical slabs, to scary high balls.

If its wet, climb in 'Grot View Cave' or if you have ropes with you, head to 'The Colesseum' in 'Mangaokewa'.

Access Issues:

Private Land.

Please observe the NZAC sign posted at the entrance to the farm. A $5 donation is suggested for bouldering trips.

Approach:

Catching the turn-off can be difficult. Drive straight through waitomo and continue on windy roads for 10-15mins from the large touristy centre. The turn-off is on the right, up a farm driveway. You'll know you have the correct one, as it has a small, clearly visible NZAC signpost at the start of the driveway.

Ethic:

No Chipping. Chalk is OK.

1.3.3.1. The Swamp 15 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.027251, -38.259618

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 1. V1 V1 Boulder
2 * 2. V2 V2 Boulder
3 * 3. VM VB Boulder
4 4. VM+ VB+ Boulder
5 5. V5 V5 Boulder
6 Spinal Clinic V2 Boulder
7 7. VM+ VB+ Boulder
8 8. VM VB Boulder
9 9. VM VB Boulder
10 10. VM VB Boulder
11 ** Trees for Cheese

FA: Kelly Chiusano

VB+ Boulder
12 ** Swanlake

FA: John Newby

V3 Boulder
13 *** Swampthing V1 Boulder
14 14. V2 V2 Boulder
15 * 15. V1 V1 Boulder
1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders 20 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.024935, -38.259704

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V1 V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 2. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder 4m
3 *** 3. V1 {US} V1 Boulder 4m
4 4. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder 4m
5 5. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder 5m
6 ** Fresh Start V2 Boulder 5m
7 * 7. V0 V0 Boulder 4m
8 Picking the Nose V2 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * 9. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
10 * Penetration on Impact V2 Boulder
11 Alternate Pleasure {US} VB+ Boulder
12 * Spiral Staircase Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 13. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder 3m
14 ** Dwarf Toss

Called 'Dwarf Toss' due to the high starting hold (jump start for many).

Delicate rock-over to balancy mantle.

V3 Boulder 4m
15 * 15. V2 V2 Boulder 4m
16 16. V2

Starts from the obvious undercling and follows runnels on bulge to topout.

Jugs on left are eliminated.

V2 Boulder 4m
17 ** Hop On

"Hop On" from the adjacent rock and follow the jugs.

{US} VB Boulder 3m
18 ** Ridgewalker {US} VB Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 * 19. V3

Sit start on obvious crimpers. Move upwards to obvious jugs and topout.

Cheat-stone makes it easier, while pulling off a right heelhook is more exciting.

V3 Boulder 2m
20 Ecoterrorism V4 Boulder
1.3.3.3. Valley Wall 14 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.023937, -38.260075

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eat the Squeezy V2 Boulder
2 Sweet and Easy VB Boulder
3 * Wazzup

FA: Steve Conn

V8 Boulder
4 2nd Chance V3 Boulder
5 * Big Fuzzy Balls

FA: John Newby

V0 Boulder 8m
6 *** Epiphyte

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V4 Boulder
7 6(a). V6

FA: Stu Kurth

V6 Boulder
8 * 7. VM+ VB+ Boulder
9 * 8. VM VB Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Warm Up Boulder

Sit start. Jugs follow left.

Campus for a V3.

V0 Boulder
11 * 10. V0

Evident crack on the right-hand side of the roof.

V0 Boulder
12 Ricemix

Up left arete

{US} V1 Boulder
13 ** Download V5 Boulder
14 * Oh Lord

FA: Steve Conn

V6 Boulder
1.3.3.4. Highball Wall 20 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.023662, -38.260524

Description:

A great sector with two distinct walls. The limestone is generally good quality. In winter the wall gets great sun in the afternoon, but ice cold in the morning. Certainly a nice place to finish the day. In summer, morning is the charm.

Approach:

Walk past the skyline boulders and follow the single-track that tends left along the ridge line.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Slapper V2 Boulder
2 ** Dirty Little Slapper V4 Boulder
3 *** Gonzo

FA: John Newby, Richard Knorf

V2 Boulder
4 * 4.VM+

Up left arete.

VB+ Boulder 5m
5 * 4(a). V2

Cruxy sequency up crack, tend left at finish.

V2 Boulder 6m
6 4(b). V6

Dyno from massive jug to lower topout.

V6 Boulder
7 *** K3

Distinctive crack to blank face.

FA: John Newby

V3 Boulder 7m
8 ** 6. V3

Tends right to arete.

V3 Boulder 7m
9 * Pete's Traverse V1 Boulder
10 Stick Insect V3 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Spanking Monkeys V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 ** Shimmey's Chimney

Very obvious chimney. Descend via cave at back (pops out at the base of 'Topin Crack')

V0 Boulder 4m
13 * Crucify Yourself

Face between 'Shimmey's Chimney' and 'Topin Crack'.

Lay back and crucify yourself to the top. Top out left.

V3 Boulder 5m
14 * Best Breasts 2001

Traverse left from 'Topin Crack' to 'Shimmey's Chimney'. Use the small footers from 'Crucify Yourself' for hands.

V4 Boulder
15 ** Topin Crack

Clear crack:

  • Easiest climbed as a layback, using fantastic jugs deep in the crack.
  • Provides more of a challenge if climbed with jamming.

Topout right and descend via cave.

V1 Boulder 5m
16 * Good Form

Climb the flowstone to crack. Taller people can reach lefthand jug when standing on the flowstone. Topout and descend via cave.

V1 Boulder 5m
17 *** Golden Shower

Layback crack. Tend right to smaller holds with a challenging topout.

FA: John Newby

V4 Boulder 5m
18 ** Golden Shower Direct

Dynamic sit start from mono to sloped rail. Finish as per 'Golden Shower'.

FA: Dave Rogers

V7 Boulder 5m
19 * Golden Shower Static

Same as 'Golden Shower Direct', merely done statically.

FA: Matt Lewis

V8 Boulder 5m
20 16. V3

FA: Rich Kersel

V3 Boulder
1.3.3.5. The Greek Gods 12 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.021784, -38.260307

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Where's my Venus?

FA: John Newby

V5 Boulder
2 Fight for Jupiter V2 Boulder
3 3. VM+ VB+ Boulder
4 ** Open up Dyane

FA: John Newby

V3 Boulder
5 5. VM VB Boulder
6 ** 6. VM VB Boulder
7 * 7. V1 V1 Boulder
8 Grazed Nipples {US} VB+ Boulder
9 9. V1 V1 Boulder
10 10. V7 V7 Boulder
11 * Pit of Dispair V5 Boulder
12 12. V3 V3 Boulder
1.3.3.6. Totem Area 20 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.021364, -38.260526

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V0 V0 Boulder
2 2. V0 V0 Boulder
3 3. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
4 4. V0 V0 Boulder
5 * Beanbag

FA: Steve Conn

V6 Boulder
6 * 6. V1 V1 Boulder
7 * Trilogy V3 Boulder
8 8. V2 V2 Boulder
9 * 9. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
10 * 10. V5 V5 Boulder
11 * 5.7" Superman V2 Boulder
12 Swing and a Miss

FA: Dave Rogers

V6 Boulder
13 ** Coconut Paddle

FA: Kelly Chiusano

V1 Boulder
14 14. VM {US} VB Boulder
15 * 15. V1 V1 Boulder
16 * 16. V2 V2 Boulder
17 ** Tupoc

FA: Dave Rogers

V4 Boulder
18 18. V2 V2 Boulder
19 * 19. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
20 * 20. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
1.3.3.7. De-Fenses Boulders 8 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.021353, -38.260376

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 1.VM + {US} VB+ Boulder
2 2. V2 V2 Boulder
3 * Bear Hug V2 Boulder
4 * 4. V3 V3 Boulder
5 5. V0 V0 Boulder
6 6. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
7 7. VM+ {US} VB+ Boulder
8 8. V0 V0 Boulder
1.3.3.8. Trackside 9 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.024438, -38.259563

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 1. VM+

Left Arete

{US} VB+ Boulder
2 2. V3

No left arete

V3 Boulder
3 ** Fishy Fingers

Site start in pockets

V0 Boulder
4 * Aquarius

Low traverse then up right arete

V4 Boulder
5 * Sweet Jo V1 Boulder
6 6. V2 V2 Boulder
7 7. VM

FA: Guy the Israeli

{US} VB Boulder
8 8. V0 V0 Boulder
9 ** 9. VM {US} VB Boulder
1.3.3.9. North Face 11 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.024891, -38.259196

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V2 V2 Boulder
2 *** Heavenly Creatures

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V6 Boulder
3 ** A Little Bit Camp

FA: John Newby

V5 Boulder
4 Rabbit Thrutch V3 Boulder
5 ** 5. V6

FA: Steve Conn

V6 Boulder
6 Project (1) Boulder Project
7 Project (2) Boulder Project
8 * Burly and Insensitive V2 Boulder
9 * Burly and Insensitive Direct V3 Boulder
10 9. V1 V1 Boulder
11 ** Dreamweaving V1 Boulder
1.3.3.10. The Cheese Grater 3 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.026033, -38.258669

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Grated Parmesan

FA: John Newby

V3 Boulder
2 * 2. V1 V1 Boulder
3 3. V0 V0 Boulder
1.3.3.11. The Wave Wall 4 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.025634, -38.259092

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Echo-Psychosis

FA: John Newby

V4 Boulder
2 ** Roasted Addiction

FA: John Newby

V5 Boulder
3 *** Wave of Echoes

FA: Stu Kurth

V9 Boulder
4 * Coriolis Force

FA: Matt Lewis

V7 Boulder
1.3.3.12. Grot View Cave 13 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.028251, -38.258956

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Du Hast

FA: John Newby

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 *** Approaching Insanity

FA: John Newby

V4 Boulder
3 ** Savage Alferesco

FA: Stu Kurth

V9 Boulder
4 * A Taste of Bile

FA: John Newby

V7 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Dirty Dancing

FA: James Morris

V6 Boulder
6 ** Frantic

FA: James Morris

V8 Boulder
7 *** Franks Route

FA: Frank Enz

V7 Boulder
8 *** Franks Better Half

FA: Frank Enz

V6 Boulder
9 *** Power Puku

FA: John Newby

V6 Boulder
10 * Standing Ovation

FA: John Newby

V4 Boulder
11 * Maestro

FA: John Newby

V4 Boulder
12 ** Power Puku Link-Up

FA: Steve Conn

V7 Boulder
13 *** The Anti-Hesitator

FA: Stu Kurth

V10 Boulder
1.3.3.13. Alchemy 9 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.021080, -38.260914

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V7+

FA: Steve Conn

V7 Boulder
2 *** Razorback Rider

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V6 Boulder
3 3. V6

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V6 Boulder
4 Nature Boy

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V3 Boulder
5 ** Armed Offenders

FA: James Morris

V7 Boulder
6 Project Boulder Project
7 * Live Life

FA: John Newby

V6 Boulder
8 ** Nightfall

FA: James Morris

V8 Boulder
9 * Lightspeed

FA: James Morris

V8 Boulder
1.3.3.14. Trail Boulders 14 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 175.020899, -38.261395

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 1. V0 V0 Boulder
2 ** 2. VM VB Boulder
3 3. VM VB Boulder
4 4. V0 V0 Boulder
5 ** 5. V2 V2 Boulder
6 ** 6. V3 V3 Boulder
7 * 7. V0 V0 Boulder
8 *** Escargot

FA: James Morris

V2 Boulder
9 Sugarbowl

FA: James Morris

V2 Boulder
10 * Stylus

FA: James Morris

V3 Boulder
11 11(a). V2 V2 Boulder
12 * Tai Toy

FA: Moko Smith

V1 Boulder
13 Got Dirt

FA: James Morris

V6 Boulder
14 Project Boulder Project
1.3.3.15. The Reservoir 12 routes in Sector
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V0 V0 Boulder
2 ** Angel of Discomfort

FA: Dave Addison

V1 Boulder
3 ** Lazy Monday

FA: James Morris

V3 Boulder
4 ** 4. V5

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V5 Boulder
5 4(a). V6

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V6 Boulder
6 * 5. V2

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V2 Boulder
7 *** The Nija Rejector

FA: Stu Kurth

V9 Boulder
8 * Empire Arete

FA: Stu Kurth

V7 Boulder
9 ** Tank Top

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V5 Boulder
10 * 8. V3

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V3 Boulder
11 ** 9. V3

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V3 Boulder
12 ** Reservoir Dogs

FA: Bevan Jenkins

V5 Boulder

1.4. King Country 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.4.1. The Big O 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid
1.4.1.1. West Side 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Legs So Wide, Legs So Long 17 Unknown
2 Slash, Bash and Gnash 15 Unknown
1.4.1.2. Main Wall 9 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bring On The African Swine Fever AID:A3 Aid
2 *** Engineering Principles AID:A2 Aid
3 Duromine Sunrise AID:A2 Aid
4 Pornography 20 Unknown
5 Rock 'n' Rophynol 18 Unknown
6 All Over The Place Like A Mad Man's Shit 16 Unknown
7 Around The Corner For A Smoke 19 Unknown
8 * Tem Time 18 Unknown
9 Meat Blanket 22 Unknown

1.4.2. Mapara Stream 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Epileptic Vampire 20 Unknown 40m
2 Exile On Main Street 19 Unknown 40m

1.5. Mangaotaki 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.881482, -38.415750

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Third time lucky 17 Unknown 45m
2 Fathers day out 19 Unknown 45m
3 * Dawn till Dusk 22 AID:A1 Aid 75m
4 While my belayer gently weeps 22 AID:A1 Aid 75m
5 ** Enthusiastic Blues 20 Unknown 35m
6 ** Hasta La Vista 22 Unknown 50m
7 * Twins 20 Unknown 50m
8 * Dont get mad, get even 18 Unknown 45m
9 Manana 19 AID:A1 Aid 50m
10 * Hakuna Matata 16 Unknown 65m
11 ** year to year 16 Unknown 40m
12 ** Trilobite 18 Unknown 20m
13 ** Late in the day 17 Unknown 40m
14 ** Stress Relief 17 Unknown 45m
15 * Shogun 18 Unknown 45m
16 * Walking the dogs 17 Unknown 50m
17 * Valium and Arithmetic 19 Unknown 25m
18 *** Third generation 21 Unknown 80m
19 * 0 to 70 in five hours 19 AID:A1 Aid 70m
20 *** year in year out 20 Unknown 70m
21 * Midnight express 18 Unknown 40m
22 I can fly 16 Unknown 35m
23 * Scorpion 19 Unknown 25m

1.6. Piarere 48 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.741145, -37.974335

1.6.1. Southern Cliff 45 routes in Cliff

Summary:
1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring 24 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Peanut Slab 18 Unknown 15m
2 More Oh 16 Unknown 20m
3 * Fancy Free 18 Unknown 10m
4 Aids Climbing 21 Unknown 20m
5 * Tree Crack 15 Unknown 10m
6 Undecided 16 Unknown 12m
7 The Green Slime Climb 10 Unknown 10m
8 * Ruiseart 22 Unknown 12m
9 Bill's Climb 16 Unknown 15m
10 Grub's Chimney 14 Unknown 12m
11 Fatlip 16 Unknown 12m
12 * Painkiller 19 Unknown 15m
13 Piarere Revisited 16 Unknown 12m
14 Junction Crack 16 Unknown 15m
15 Brinderwin 20 Unknown 15m
16 * Piarere Corner 19 Unknown 15m
17 * Edwardian Ploy 21 Unknown 15m
18 * The Crucifix 20 Unknown 20m
19 Senility Beckons 18 Unknown 15m
20 ** Immortality 19 Unknown 12m
21 * Bambi Meets Godzilla 18 Unknown 12m
22 Atom Heart Mother 19 Unknown 15m
23 Stringbeans And Spyrogyra 17 Unknown 15m
24 Combat Rock 16 Unknown 6m
1.6.1.2. Left of the Spring 21 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Power Without The Glory 24 Unknown
2 ** Gateway 18 Unknown 22m
3 * Forward Play 19 Unknown 20m
4 Earth Closet 19 Unknown 15m
5 * If Dogs Run Free 19 Unknown 20m
6 ** Closed Shop 22 Unknown 15m
7 Black Crow 19 Unknown 15m
8 Escapee From Suburbia 18 Unknown 12m
9 Bronchial Wheeze 18 Unknown 12m
10 When The Wind Blows 17 Unknown 10m
11 Middle Earth 19 Unknown 12m
12 Short Crack 16 Unknown 10m
13 Ice Cream Jimmie 17 Unknown 12m
14 Yes Gotta Say Yes (to another excess) 10 Unknown 10m
15 * Dai Thrytchyn 15 Unknown 8m
16 * Late Nights 15 Unknown 10m
17 The Pinnacle 16 Unknown 10m
18 * Blood Of A Lamb 18 Unknown 20m
19 * The Prow 22 Unknown 20m
20 Overcammed 17 Unknown 15m
21 Visions Of Rolling Doughnuts 17 Unknown 10m

1.6.2. Northern Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Death Or Glory 20 Unknown 20m
2 Speed 17 Unknown 20m
3 Corridors Of Power 22 Unknown 20m

1.7. Ohakuri Dam 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 176.082863, -38.411793

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Badger Country

FA: Greame Dingle & Ray Button

18 Unknown 40m
2 * D.Mc......adieu

Named after Dave McNulty the guru of NZ Mtn. guiding who died in an avalanche heli skiing.

FA: Ray Button & Greame Dingle

21 Unknown 40m

1.8. Lake Whakamaru 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.860397, -38.419368

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Justice Too Late 16 Trad 15m
2 One Rooted Ninja 16 Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Ain't Nothin' To It Top rope 7m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
VB 10. VM Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
* 3. VM Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
8. VM Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
9. VM Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
** Hop On Boulder 3m 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
** Ridgewalker Boulder 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
* 8. VM Boulder 1.3.3.3. Valley Wall
Sweet and Easy Boulder 1.3.3.3. Valley Wall
5. VM Boulder 1.3.3.5. The Greek Gods
** 6. VM Boulder 1.3.3.5. The Greek Gods
14. VM Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
7. VM Boulder 1.3.3.8. Trackside
** 9. VM Boulder 1.3.3.8. Trackside
** 2. VM Boulder 1.3.3.14. Trail Boulders
3. VM Boulder 1.3.3.14. Trail Boulders
8 Cha Cha Loco Unknown 6m 1.1.1.11. The Wailing Wall
Richards Unfinished Project Unknown 7m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
9 Esmit Sport 8m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
10 Shi'ite Unknown 3m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Chopped Unknown 5m 1.1.1.4. South End
Red Block Chimney Trad 10m 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
* Lady Unwelcome Sport 8m, 3 1.1.2.11. Pupuke Boulder
Tortoise Boulder 12m 1.1.3.4. Meteors Buttress
The Green Slime Climb Unknown 10m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Yes Gotta Say Yes (to another excess) Unknown 10m 1.6.1.2. Left of the Spring
VB+ 4. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
7. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
** Trees for Cheese Boulder 1.3.3.1. The Swamp
13. VM+ Boulder 3m 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
2. VM+ Boulder 4m 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
4. VM+ Boulder 4m 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
5. VM+ Boulder 5m 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
* 9. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
Alternate Pleasure Boulder 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
* 7. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.3. Valley Wall
* 4.VM+ Boulder 5m 1.3.3.4. Highball Wall
3. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.5. The Greek Gods
Grazed Nipples Boulder 1.3.3.5. The Greek Gods
* 19. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
* 20. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
3. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
* 9. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
* 1.VM + Boulder 1.3.3.7. De-Fenses Boulders
6. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.7. De-Fenses Boulders
7. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.7. De-Fenses Boulders
* 1. VM+ Boulder 1.3.3.8. Trackside
12 Kosher Unknown 8m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Magical Mystery Tour Unknown 8m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Whatever Tickles Your Fancy Unknown 8m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Cosmic Jam Sport 20m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Never Trust A Man (with egg on his face) Sport 16m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Receding Hairline Trad 14m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Ding's Chimney Unknown 10m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
* Retour Unknown 15m, 5 1.1.2.9. Animal Biscuit Valley
Fugley Unknown 15m 1.1.6.2. Dry Valley
Cliffs Crack Unknown 5m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Cookie Monster Unknown 8m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Craig Would Like This Unknown 6m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
13 * Psychedelic Rockers Sport 19m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Baghdad Café Sport 30m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Crooked Crack Trad 8m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
** Gary's Arete Sport 14m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Amigo Dos Boulder 6m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
Monsoon Madness Sport 10m 1.1.3.5. Crows Nest Pinnacle
Out of Date Unknown 10m 1.1.5.1. Cabbage Tree Gully
Ellen Unknown 7m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
TLC Unknown 12m 1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond
Birthday Girl Unknown 15m 1.1.10.5. The Car Park Wall
14 ** Rok It To The Moon Sport 23m, 5 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Lentil Nightmare Sport 20m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Matlub Nuri Trad 16m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Cannibal Groove Sport 25m, 6 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Yellowcake UF6 Top rope 10m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
The New Stone Age Unknown 8m 1.1.1.4. South End
Amigo Uno Boulder 6m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
Pickpocket Sport 18m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
Happy Ending Unknown 10m 1.1.1.11. The Wailing Wall
Al Fresco Sport 20m, 5 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
One Man's Meat Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Teenage Mutant Sport 18m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
* Double Jeopardy Sport 13m 1.1.3.5. Crows Nest Pinnacle
Commitment Unknown 15m 1.1.5.3. Bridge Buttress
Letospermum Unknown 20m 1.1.5.4. Kanuka Gully
Packacrack Unknown 12m 1.1.5.4. Kanuka Gully
30 Pieces of Silver Unknown 8m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Right Left Dianonal Unknown 12m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Accessable Unknown 8m 1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters
Pikelet Unknown 6m 1.1.6.6. Little Face
* Thread the Possum Unknown 15m 1.1.6.7. End Wall
Seek The Hieghts Unknown 12m 1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond
Left Rib Unknown 9m 1.1.7.3. New Wall
Dirty Dave Does it Again Unknown 10m 1.1.8.3. Wacky Wall
Way Out Unknown 15m 1.1.8.4. The Forks
Twinkle Twinkle Sport 20m 1.1.10.2. Galaxy Wall
Jess's Staircase Sport 4 1.2.1.6. The Colesseum
Grub's Chimney Unknown 12m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
15 Fraggle Unknown 7m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Radiant Gnomeworks Sport 8m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Anteater Unknown 8m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Holy Braille Sport 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* In Sha La Trad 12m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Just Who Is The 5 O'Clock Hero Sport 16m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Meat Is Murder Sport 11m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Turkey Tactics Sport 18m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
New Climb Unknown 12m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
** Oliver's Twist Sport 12m, 5 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Shine On Through Unknown 7m 1.1.1.4. South End
The Hood Unknown 10m 1.1.1.4. South End
Mathew-Mark Trad 7m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
Basin St Blues Sport 10m 1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully
* Mellowing To Brubeck Sport 15m, 4 1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully
Mood Indigo Sport 10m 1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully
* Take the A-Train Sport 10m, 3 1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully
Trust Me (I know what I'm doing) Unknown 10m 1.1.1.10. The Towers Of Pain
Go For It Unknown 7m 1.1.1.11. The Wailing Wall
Matey Potatey Unknown 5m 1.1.1.12. Other Oversized Boulders
E-Grade Get a Real Grading System Sport 10m, 4 1.1.2.2. Hold On To Your Face Wall
Aller Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Heavenly Wall
Ninja Sport 18m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Pupuke Centre Sport 8m, 3 1.1.2.11. Pupuke Boulder
Easy Weesy Sport 20m 1.1.3.1. Chunderosa Buttress
** Horus Sport 20m 1.1.3.1. Chunderosa Buttress
* Dead Cow Groove Sport 15m, 10 1.1.3.2. Flying Cow Buttress
** Buzzy Bee Sport 10m 1.1.3.3. Hidden Cirque
Hello Darkness Sport 10m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
* Holier-Than-Thou Sport 8m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Shirty Arete Sport 12m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Still Red Sport 6m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Late Lunch Unknown 15m 1.1.5.2. Leaning Wall
Anniversary Unknown 15m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
* Hugh The Anklebiter Unknown 10m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
T1 Unknown 18m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
A Cheese Sandwich Unknown 6m 1.1.6.2. Dry Valley
* To Be Married Unknown 8m 1.1.6.2. Dry Valley
My Two Friends Unknown 7m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Walk Off Unknown 15m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Tesa Unknown 8m 1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters
Iains Climb Unknown 8m 1.1.6.6. Little Face
Little Black Streak Unknown 6m 1.1.6.6. Little Face
Swiss Cheese Unknown 12m 1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond
Azure Pe Sport 15m 1.1.7.1. River Wall
Bivouav Boy Sport 10m 1.1.7.1. River Wall
* Clip, Climb, Crash Unknown 10m 1.1.7.2. Monday's Wall
Gumboot Arete Sport 4m 1.1.7.2. Monday's Wall
* One Bolt Wonder Unknown 10m 1.1.7.2. Monday's Wall
* Vegetarian Chainsaw Massacre Trad 15m 1.1.7.2. Monday's Wall
Consolation Crack Unknown 12m 1.1.7.3. New Wall
Still Crazy Unknown 20m 1.1.7.3. New Wall
Slacker Unknown 15m 1.1.8.4. The Forks
Breathe In Unknown 15m 1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall
Pretending Unknown 15m 1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall
Pretty In Pink Unknown 10m 1.1.9.5. Carpark
Pretty in Pink Unknown 15m 1.1.10.5. The Car Park Wall
** French Ethics Sport 5 1.2.1.6. The Colesseum
* Skolzinseshin Sport 2 1.2.1.6. The Colesseum
** Walking on Sunshine Sport 3 1.2.1.10. The Aviary
Stink Crack Unknown 25m 1.3.2. Mangaotaki Road
Slash, Bash and Gnash Unknown 1.4.1.1. West Side
* Tree Crack Unknown 10m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
* Dai Thrytchyn Unknown 8m 1.6.1.2. Left of the Spring
* Late Nights Unknown 10m 1.6.1.2. Left of the Spring
V0 * 7. V0 Boulder 4m 1.3.3.2. Skyline Boulders
* 10. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.3. Valley Wall
* Big Fuzzy Balls Boulder 8m 1.3.3.3. Valley Wall
*** Warm Up Boulder Boulder 1.3.3.3. Valley Wall
** Shimmey's Chimney Boulder 4m 1.3.3.4. Highball Wall
1. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
2. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
4. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.6. Totem Area
5. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.7. De-Fenses Boulders
8. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.7. De-Fenses Boulders
8. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.8. Trackside
** Fishy Fingers Boulder 1.3.3.8. Trackside
3. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.10. The Cheese Grater
* 1. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.14. Trail Boulders
4. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.14. Trail Boulders
* 7. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.14. Trail Boulders
1. V0 Boulder 1.3.3.15. The Reservoir
16 * Always The Sun Sport 24m, 6 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
* Wally's Womble Sport 20m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Goddess Of Pox Trad 12m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Hidden Faces Sport 6m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Krishna Sport 18m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Lord Shiva Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Screaming Blue Messiahs Sport 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Street Life Serenade Sport 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
The Messiah Unknown 6m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Facetious Sport 14m, 4 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Fizzing At The Bung Sport 25m, 8 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Fun Bags Sport 15m, 6 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Mild Thing Sport 14m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Pockmark Sport 14m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Ride On Time Sport 14m, 4 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Rocksteady Sport 7m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Strange New Worlds Sport 22m, 7 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
*** The Grim Reamer Sport 15m, 6 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Bismark Unknown 20m 1.1.1.4. South End
Deb Arete Unknown 8m 1.1.1.4. South End
Executive Stress Unknown 10m 1.1.1.4. South End
Burn Out Unknown 12m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
* Hallmark Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
* Blue Eyes For Dorsey Sport 12m 1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully
* Back to the Future Trad 15m 1.1.2.1. Bete Noir Wall
A Blast from the Past Trad 15m 1.1.2.2. Hold On To Your Face Wall
* Bonne Annee Sport 20m, 7 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Last Night of the Poms Sport 8m, 3 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Serife Sport 20m, 5 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
** White Christmas Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Hidden Sport 8m, 3 1.1.2.4. Heavenly Wall
Ro Shambo Sport 10m, 3 1.1.2.6. Red Block
Firebug Pete Sport 10m, 3 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Pyromania Sport 18m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Spiny Norman Sport 18m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Burning Rain Sport 22m 1.1.3.1. Chunderosa Buttress
Terrapin Sport 12m 1.1.3.4. Meteors Buttress
Boot Wall Sport 12m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
* Chevre Sport 35m, 10 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Rata Rout Sport 12m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Short Arete Sport 8m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Wholesome Sport 8m 1.1.3.6. Western Wall
Puppy Love Unknown 15m 1.1.5.2. Leaning Wall
* Quatlamba Unknown 15m 1.1.5.3. Bridge Buttress
Learning to Crawl Unknown 15m 1.1.5.4. Kanuka Gully
Just Honey Unknown 20m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
Lounge Lizard Unknown 18m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
Mud and Glory Unknown 15m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
** Steel Caps Unknown 25m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
Yuk Soup Unknown 20m 1.1.6.1. Swamp Wall
Too Dark Two Clip Unknown 15m 1.1.6.2. Dry Valley
Run Out Unknown 15m 1.1.6.3. Pinnacle Knoll
Dogs Do It Unknown 8m 1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters
Happy 12th Birthday Unknown 12m 1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters
* Nigh Eve Unknown 8m 1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters
Trail Blazing Unknown 8m 1.1.6.4. The Three Sisters
Lumberjack Unknown 18m 1.1.6.5. Pinnacle Lower Tier
Twenty, Tree, Rock Unknown 40m 1.1.6.5. Pinnacle Lower Tier
Cow Phobic Unknown 15m 1.1.6.7. End Wall
Playing Possum Unknown 12m 1.1.6.7. End Wall
Scot's Route Unknown 15m 1.1.6.7. End Wall
Tweenty Unknown 15m 1.1.6.7. End Wall
Thousand Doller Crack Unknown 10m 1.1.6.8. Southend Wall
** Itsy Bitsy Spider Unknown 15m 1.1.6.9. Back of Beyound
Cracking the Whip Unknown 8m 1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond
How Many Roads Unknown 10m 1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond
Over the Top Unknown 5m 1.1.6.11. Beyound the Back of Beyond
Attack of the Killer Oven Gloves Sport 10m, 3 1.1.7.1. River Wall
Cocoa Kid and the Black and Decker Wimp Sport 12m 1.1.7.1. River Wall
* Gillians Artete Sport 8m, 3 1.1.7.2. Monday's Wall
Right Rib Unknown 9m 1.1.7.3. New Wall
Afterthough Trad 8m 1.1.7.4. Roadside
Bimbo Unknown 10m 1.1.8.1. The Pinnacles
Hop, Skip and Jump Unknown 15m 1.1.8.2. The Lower Wall
Back n Foot Unknown 20m 1.1.8.3. Wacky Wall
Declination Unknown 20m 1.1.8.3. Wacky Wall
* Jacinta Gilbert Unknown 15m 1.1.8.3. Wacky Wall
* Backdoor Beauty Unknown 15m 1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall
* Buckets of Rain Unknown 15m 1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall
In the Footsteps of Dave Unknown 15m 1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall
Mudlark Unknown 15m 1.1.9.1. Sunday Wall
Baby Driver Sport 20m 1.1.10.2. Galaxy Wall
* Rumble in the Jungle Sport 5 1.2.1.3. The Headwall
Midnight Maurauders Sport 3 1.2.1.8. The Cheap Seats
* Ying Yang Sport 3 1.2.1.10. The Aviary
Marakopa Chimney Unknown 30m 1.3.1. Te Anga
* Shogun Unknown 45m 1.3.2. Mangaotaki Road
All Over The Place Like A Mad Man's Shit Unknown 1.4.1.2. Main Wall
* Hakuna Matata Unknown 65m 1.5. Mangaotaki
I can fly Unknown 35m 1.5. Mangaotaki
** year to year Unknown 40m 1.5. Mangaotaki
Bill's Climb Unknown 15m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Combat Rock Unknown 6m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Fatlip Unknown 12m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Junction Crack Unknown 15m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
More Oh Unknown 20m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Piarere Revisited Unknown 12m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Undecided Unknown 12m 1.6.1.1. Right of the Spring
Short Crack Unknown 10m 1.6.1.2. Left of the Spring
The Pinnacle Unknown 10m 1.6.1.2. Left of the Spring
Justice Too Late Trad 15m 1.8. Lake Whakamaru
One Rooted Ninja Trad 15m 1.8. Lake Whakamaru
17 Dust In The Wind Unknown 7m 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
* The King And I Sport 10m, 3 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
* The Thirty Nine Steps Sport 15m, 6 1.1.1.1. Bumbly's Buttress
Apocolypse Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Armagedon Trad 15m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Cosmic Shiva Sport 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
* Lycra Fagots Sport 10m 1.1.1.2. Upper Tier
Career Opportunities Trad 12m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
*** Girls, Girls, Girls Sport 20m, 7 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Graduation Sport 18m 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Green Spot Sport 16m, 5 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Sweet As Sport 14m, 6 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
*** Virgin On Easy Sport 22m, 9 1.1.1.3. Lower Tier
Farmbake Unknown 9m 1.1.1.4. South End
Amigo Tres Boulder 6m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
Hanvandangle Unknown 20m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
Right Bastard Trad 20m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
* Sex, Money, Freaks Unknown 12m 1.1.1.8. Swamp Wall
** Gleaming The Cube Sport 12m 1.1.1.9. Gum's Gully
Justine Unknown 12m 1.1.1.10. The Towers Of Pain
* Hey Mister Algi Man Unknown 8m 1.1.1.12. Other Oversized Boulders
Blazing Away Sport 8m, 4 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Climatic Conclusion Sport 20m, 7 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
* Thunder Blaster Sport 20m, 7 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Wall Flower Sport 8m, 4 1.1.2.3. Main Cliff
Eric Sport 8m, 5 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Firestarter Sport 18m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Pyro Pete Sport 18m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Slug Sport 15m, 6 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Snarf Sport 10m, 3 1.1.2.7. Slug Wall
Revenge of the Gnomes Unknown 16m 1.1.2.9. Animal Biscuit Valley
* Behind the Line Sport 15m, 6 1.1.2.10. The Beer Garden
Summer Song for Scotty Sport 12m, 5 1.1.2.10. The Beer Garden
* Carpe Diem Sport 30m, 7 1.1.3.1.