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Routes as trad in Main Cliff

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Showing all 27 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Millenium Wall
26 Super C Ellery

Start up 'RotoVegas' then veer left up the face. Sequency with a powerful finish.

FA: Dave Hood & Martyn Owen, 2001

Mixed trad 30m, 6
29 Rain Man

Alternate left hand start to 'Super C Ellery'

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2012

Mixed trad 30m, 6
25 RotoVegas

Start in short corner crack, veer left into right crack. Cruxes are at bolts.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Bryce Martin, 2001

Mixed trad 30m, 2
18 Millennium Madness

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

FA: Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt & jo, 2000

Trad 15m
24 Mid Year Madness

The continuation of 'Millennium Madness'. Climb through the roof with good hold on the lip. follow thin crack and arete to tree belay at the top.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 2000

Mixed trad 25m, 2
14 Thirsty Boots

The fist crack and corner starting down below Dog's Breakfast , finishing at a DBC anchor on top of the stacked blocks (or continue up Dog's Breakfast).

FA: Bryce Martin, Jan 2019

Trad 12m
The Arches
20 Ben’s Big Day Out

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore & Ben Owen, 2001

Mixed trad 22m, 3
22 Fingers Crossed

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

FA: Richard Knott, 2000

Mixed trad 25m, 4
Wall of Fate
23 Lost Art

Start form the belay bolt 2m left of Spartacus. Thin trad climbing.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2012

Trad 12m
18 The Root

Climb the groove then continue up the crack into the large right-facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay.

FA: DaveGarrity, CraigMartin & ElsieLemordant, 2000

Trad 25m
18 No Country For Young Men

An adventure. Up and right from the start of The Root, then a committed move rightwards will establish you in the wide groove. Jam your way up the crack to the pine tree, sling it, then climb the right side of the tree until you can regain the rock. Continue up past the next tree following the right-hand crack system (don't escape left to The Root anchors), until you reach a single bolt just below the DBC anchor. Take a wide range of cams, nuts and slings. You can rap off on a 60m rope.

FFA: Bryce Martin, 2012

Mixed trad 33m, 1
17 Billy Bold

Climb the face until you reach the crack on the left side of the pillar. Climb the crack to a bolted belay on top of the pillar.

FA: Bryce Martin & Craig Martin, 2000

Trad 12m
19 Quarry Climbing

Climb the face to the right until you reach the crack on the right side of the BB pillar. Same anchors as BB.

FA: Bryce Martin

FFA: 2000

Mixed trad 12m, 2
21 Real Rock

Starts from ledge above the track. Climb the corner before moving onto the left arete and climbing to the ledge. Head up right facing corner to a semi-detached flake. Follow the crack as it steepens past 2 bolts. Double bolt anchor.

FA: Dave Garrity

FFA: 2000

Mixed trad 20m, 2
18 Sidewinder

Up the outside of the detached pillar. Climb the twin cracks until stepping left onto the front of the pillar past a bolt. Head slightly left past more bolts to the top of the pillar.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 1999

Mixed trad 22m, 4
19 Penny Lane

Start up slab move right into a corner. Climb this corner till you get your hands on the ledge, then head left into the crack system before, climbing this system to the anchor of Finger of Fate

Trad 25m
17 Finger of Fate
1 17 12m
2 16 8m

P1: (12m Gear) Climb the corner below the tree and then another corner to the base of the pillar. Trad anchor. P2: (8m, 2 bolts) Climb the chimney on the left side of the pillar. Same belay as Sidewinder.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 1999

Mixed trad 20m, 2, 2
21 Perfect Light

Start as for FOF but head right from the first ledge up the face and thin crack towards the hanging corner. Head back left to the anchor via the steep face and wide crack.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2001

Mixed trad 25m, 5
23 Lats Rule Thinking

Starts up the middle of the face just right of FOF. Mixed route. Hard technical climbing for the first 3 bolts. Move right to climb left facing corner. Above this gear is needed.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2001

Mixed trad 25m, 9
24 Scavenger

Mixed route. Start right of LRT. Head up the face drifting slightly right through small overlap. Stay just left of the arete.

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2001

Mixed trad 25m, 9
16 May Day

Start as for Stealing Dads Rack but takes the left crack system.

FA: Bryce Martin

Trad 10m
17 Stealing Dad's Rack

Corner right of LnR. Finish over triangular block. Double bolt anchor.

FA: Craig Martin, 2001

Trad 10m
19 Grit Pike Thin

Up the slab with 1 bolt for protection. Into the corner and follow it to the top.

FA: Dave Garrity, 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 1
18 Forever 22 in the Gym

Starts from the right hand end of the ledge. Follow crack feature to the right of GPT.

FA: Doug Anderson, 2006

Trad 10m
Galaxy Walls
17 Short n Sweet

Up the manky left-hand corner crack to DBC anchor. You may need to dig it out on the way.

FA: Steven Lane, 2010

Trad 10m
20 Dani

The right-hand (cleaner) corner and crack with a tree part-way up. Continues on bolts above the DBC anchor of Short n Sweet with some balancy moves and thought-provoking finish over the top to a DBC anchor.

FA: Andrew D'Ville, 2010

Mixed trad 20m, 4
19 Hybrid Heavin

Starts in the narrow crack before heading past 2 bolts to the anchor.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2010

Mixed trad 20m, 2

Showing all 27 routes.

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