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Description

Excellent :)

Approach

A couple of hundred metres down the road from riverside . There is a car park on the right, directly opposite the crag. The toilet is towards the river .. in the willows.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Diagonal climbing on big holds

2
15 Strawberry Sport 16m

FA: Paul Aubrey

3
16 Aratuatahi Sport 16m, 5

14m up the face to a huge undercling, then easy up to the top

FA: Clinton Beavan

4
16 Aspiring Arseholes Trad 15m

look for a deep recess for the 1st placement, take some large gear for the crux

5
18 Slightly English Sport 18m, 4

Follow the crack up to a flake. Look for the fine foot ledge near the diagonal scar. Up the face on good pockets, a little run out

FA: Nick Cradock

6
20 Practicing arms Unknown 18m
7
21 ** Aretenaphobia Sport 8m, 4

13m - apparently - a kind of off balence fiasco that causes tantrums and retrospective enjoyment

FA: Paul Aubrey

9
18 Nasal excavations Sport 18m, 4

14m - Start as for Slightly English up the crack but veer right up the pocket crack after clipping first bolt.

10
17 Hazel Green Trad 15m

surely this has been climbed before? - the obvious "eternity-esk" crack line that leans left to right. starts at base of Nasal Excavations and finishes at anchor for Aretenophobia...no details in any guide book but stellar crack line!

11
18 * Papals Nasal Trad 12m

crux start needs a good spot until the 1st piece of good placement.

12
21 I need a Pie Sport 17m, 4

All of these are around the corner on the next face

Right of the small pillar, bridge up the corner and pull through to a rest ledge

13
23 * Up Your Scud Sport 17m, 6

13m - from the arete on crimps

14
13 Nasal Direct Unknown 6m
15
14 Roadside Rage Sport 8m
16
15 Everbody needs a thneed Unknown 15m

FA: Al Uren