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Description

Excellent

Approach

A couple of hundred metres down the road from riverside . There is a car park on the right, directly opposite the crag. The toilet is towards the river .. in the willows.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Judge’s Wine Trad 15m

Follow the crack line right, then veer left under the top bulge.

FA: Paul Scaife & Dave McNulty

2

Diagonal climbing on big holds

3

Up Strawberry until you can take the left crack above the overlap.

FA: Russell Braddock, 2003

4
15 * Strawberry Sport 16m

FA: Paul Aubrey

5
16 * Aratuatahi Sport 16m, 5

14m up the face to a huge undercling, then easy up to the top

FA: Clinton Beavan

6
20 * Practising arms Mixed 18m, 2
7
16 * Aspiring Arseholes Trad 15m

look for a deep recess for the 1st placement, take some large gear for the crux

8
18 * Slightly English Sport 18m, 4

Follow the crack up to a flake. Look for the fine foot ledge near the diagonal scar. Up the face on good pockets, a little run out

FA: Nick Cradock

9
18 * Nasal excavations Sport 18m, 4

14m - Start as for Slightly English up the crack but veer right up the pocket crack after clipping first bolt.

10
17 to 18 ** The Ramp / Hazel Green Trad 13m

The pumpy right-leaning crack.

FA: Nick Craddock

11
18 Papals Nasal Trad 12m

crux start needs a good spot until the 1st piece of good placement.

FA: Nick Craddock

12
13 Nasal Direct Unknown 6m
13
21 ** Aretenaphobia Sport 8m, 4

13m - apparently - a kind of off balence fiasco that causes tantrums and retrospective enjoyment

FA: Paul Aubrey

14
21 I need a Pie Sport 17m, 4

All of these are around the corner on the next face

Right of the small pillar, bridge up the corner and pull through to a rest ledge

15
23 Up Your Scud Sport 17m, 6

13m - from the arete on crimps

16
17
14 Roadside Rage Sport 8m
18
15 Everbody needs a thneed Unknown 15m

FA: Al Uren

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