A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Motatapu Valley 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.949005, -44.653081

1.1. Riverside 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.953805, -44.657783

1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 zoftig

The bolts have been taken out due to the dangerous state of the flake. May still be climbed on gear at your own considerable risk...

14 R Unknown 8m
2 * Super Size Me 15 Sport 10m, 4
3 Progressive Leadership 14 Sport 8m
4 right ascension 14 Sport 8m, 4
5 generation x 16 Sport 8m
6 occupational therapy 15 Sport 8m
7 Dog Leg 12 Sport 8m
8 infinite inviegeling 16 Sport 8m
9 the valsalva manoeuvre 16 Sport 8m

1.1.2. Streaked Wall 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cryptology

FA: Jerry Murray Orr

19 Sport 13m
2 * Grandma Funk

FA: Jerry Murray Orr

16 Sport 12m

1.1.3. Kerfuffle Wall 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Get Kerfuffled 17 Sport 20m
2 * Te Whanau 18 Sport 18m
3 Terrain Spotting 17 Sport 18m, 5

1.1.4. Main Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Microcosmos 25 S Sport 15m
2 * Honey I Blew up the Atoll 22 Sport 20m
3 *** The engorger 24 S Sport 20m
4 *** Zoot alors 24 S Sport 20m
5 Lollapallooza 25 Sport 25m
6 ** Anti walk device 23 S Sport 20m
7 ** Jack be nimble 23 S Sport 20m

1.1.5. The Garden Bar 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Glens 15 Unknown 25m
2 Jug of Speights 19 Sport 20m
3 Just Add Sausages 25 Unknown 15m
4 * The Oatmeal Savage 22 Unknown 18m
5 ** Who the Fuck is Nick Craddock? 23 Unknown 18m

1.2. Toad Hall 0 routes in Cliff

1.3. Roadside Attraction 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.949371, -44.650678

Description:

Excellent

Approach:

A couple of hundred metres down the road from riverside . There is a car park on the right, directly opposite the crag. The toilet is towards the river .. in the willows.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Judge’s Wine

Follow the crack line right, then veer left under the top bulge.

FA: Paul Scaife, Dave McNulty

16 Trad 15m
2 Elvis Trashes His Car

Diagonal climbing on big holds

14 Sport 12m
3 Self Directed Learning Tool

Up Strawberry until you can take the left crack above the overlap.

FA: Russell Braddock, 2003

17 Sport 20m, 3
4 Strawberry

FA: Paul Aubrey

15 Sport 16m
5 Aratuatahi

14m up the face to a huge undercling, then easy up to the top

FA: Clinton Beavan

16 Sport 16m, 5
6 Practising arms 20 Mixed 18m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Aspiring Arseholes

look for a deep recess for the 1st placement, take some large gear for the crux

16 Trad 15m
8 Slightly English

Follow the crack up to a flake. Look for the fine foot ledge near the diagonal scar. Up the face on good pockets, a little run out

FA: Nick Cradock

18 Sport 18m, 4
9 Nasal excavations

14m - Start as for Slightly English up the crack but veer right up the pocket crack after clipping first bolt.

18 Sport 18m, 4
10 The Ramp / Hazel Green

The pumpy right-leaning crack.

FA: Nick Craddock

17 to 18 Trad 13m
11 * Papals Nasal

crux start needs a good spot until the 1st piece of good placement.

FA: Nick Craddock

18 Trad 12m
12 Nasal Direct 13 Unknown 6m
13 ** Aretenaphobia

13m - apparently - a kind of off balence fiasco that causes tantrums and retrospective enjoyment

FA: Paul Aubrey

21 Sport 8m, 4
14 I need a Pie

All of these are around the corner on the next face

Right of the small pillar, bridge up the corner and pull through to a rest ledge

21 Sport 17m, 4
15 * Up Your Scud

13m - from the arete on crimps

23 Sport 17m, 6
16 *** Short cut to Exposure 17 Sport 45m
17 Roadside Rage 14 Sport 8m
18 Everbody needs a thneed

FA: Al Uren

15 Unknown 15m
19 ** Everything but the Formalities 22 Unknown 15m

1.4. The Alcove 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Where's Dr Holdfinder? 23 Sport 20m
2 ** The Colonel's Secret 22 Sport 16m
3 ** Chinese Hospitality 19 Sport 15m
4 ** Ferocious Weasel 23 Sport 20m
5 ** Roche Moutonnee 23 Sport 16m
6 * Bob the builder 25 Sport 12m
7 ** Huha 26 Sport 12m
8 * Cunning Linguistics 20 Sport
9 * Reefer Madness 21 Sport 16m
10 The Army Route 19 Sport 16m
11 * Screamin norwester 24 Sport 12m

1.5. Farside 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.948205, -44.653674

Approach:

Park across from Roadside Attraction, follow the well defined track along the deer fence, keep going past The Alcove until the track leads you to Farside, can't miss it. 10-15min walk.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pam's Instant

FA: Nick Cradock, 2007

17 Sport 10m, 4
2 Grinder

Starts from Fine Ground anchor

FA: Greg Johnston, 2007

23 Sport 20m, 6
3 * Fine Ground 22 Unknown
4 Short Black 26 Unknown
5 Footrot Flats

FA: Greg Johnston, 2007

{US} AU:16 Sport 10m, 4
6 Yankee Doodle Dancy

FA: Nick Cradock, 2007

18 Sport 10m, 4
7 * Bloodline

FA: Nick Cradock, 2007

19 Sport 15m, 5
8 Girl on the run 22 Unknown
9 On Bidet 25 Unknown
10 Boguns 17 Sport 15m
11 * Hello Oleria 24 Unknown
12 ** Back to Terra Firma

See Wanaka Rock guide for more info.

FA: David Hiddleston

21 Sport 20m, 6
13 * Girl Trouble 17 Sport 15m
14 ** In Flagrante Dilecto 19 Sport
15 *** Jock the Frotterer 18 Sport 18m
16 Eyore

See Wanaka Rock guide for more info.

FA: Nick Cradock, Trev Streat

17 Trad 20m
17 Chairman Ed

See Wanaka Rock guide for more info.

FA: Nick Cradock, Glen Einam

17 Mixed 20m, 2
18 ** Beyond Boredom & Anxiety 16 Sport 15m, 7
19 Clean Me 16 Sport 15m

1.6. Dunnyside 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Dog Leg Sport 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
13 Nasal Direct Unknown 6m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
14 Progressive Leadership Sport 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
right ascension Sport 8m, 4 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
Elvis Trashes His Car Sport 12m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
Roadside Rage Sport 8m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
14 R zoftig Unknown 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
15 * Super Size Me Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
occupational therapy Sport 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
Glens Unknown 25m 1.1.5. The Garden Bar
Everbody needs a thneed Unknown 15m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
Strawberry Sport 16m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
16 generation x Sport 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
infinite inviegeling Sport 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
the valsalva manoeuvre Sport 8m 1.1.1. Beginner’s Slab
* Grandma Funk Sport 12m 1.1.2. Streaked Wall
Aratuatahi Sport 16m, 5 1.3. Roadside Attraction
Aspiring Arseholes Trad 15m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
Judge’s Wine Trad 15m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
** Beyond Boredom & Anxiety Sport 15m, 7 1.5. Farside
Clean Me Sport 15m 1.5. Farside
Footrot Flats Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Farside
17 Get Kerfuffled Sport 20m 1.1.3. Kerfuffle Wall
Terrain Spotting Sport 18m, 5 1.1.3. Kerfuffle Wall
Self Directed Learning Tool Sport 20m, 3 1.3. Roadside Attraction
*** Short cut to Exposure Sport 45m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
Boguns Sport 15m 1.5. Farside
Chairman Ed Mixed 20m, 2 1.5. Farside
Eyore Trad 20m 1.5. Farside
* Girl Trouble Sport 15m 1.5. Farside
Pam's Instant Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Farside
17 to 18 The Ramp Trad 13m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
18 * Te Whanau Sport 18m 1.1.3. Kerfuffle Wall
Nasal excavations Sport 18m, 4 1.3. Roadside Attraction
* Papals Nasal Trad 12m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
Slightly English Sport 18m, 4 1.3. Roadside Attraction
*** Jock the Frotterer Sport 18m 1.5. Farside
Yankee Doodle Dancy Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Farside
19 * Cryptology Sport 13m 1.1.2. Streaked Wall
Jug of Speights Sport 20m 1.1.5. The Garden Bar
** Chinese Hospitality Sport 15m 1.4. The Alcove
The Army Route Sport 16m 1.4. The Alcove
* Bloodline Sport 15m, 5 1.5. Farside
** In Flagrante Dilecto Sport 1.5. Farside
20 Practising arms Mixed 18m, 2 1.3. Roadside Attraction
* Cunning Linguistics Sport 1.4. The Alcove
21 ** Aretenaphobia Sport 8m, 4 1.3. Roadside Attraction
I need a Pie Sport 17m, 4 1.3. Roadside Attraction
* Reefer Madness Sport 16m 1.4. The Alcove
** Back to Terra Firma Sport 20m, 6 1.5. Farside
22 * Honey I Blew up the Atoll Sport 20m 1.1.4. Main Wall
* The Oatmeal Savage Unknown 18m 1.1.5. The Garden Bar
** Everything but the Formalities Unknown 15m 1.3. Roadside Attraction
** The Colonel's Secret Sport 16m 1.4. The Alcove
* Fine Ground Unknown 1.5. Farside
Girl on the run Unknown 1.5. Farside
23 ** Anti walk device Sport 20m 1.1.4. Main Wall
** Jack be nimble Sport 20m 1.1.4. Main Wall
** Who the Fuck is Nick Craddock? Unknown 18m 1.1.5. The Garden Bar
* Up Your Scud Sport 17m, 6 1.3. Roadside Attraction
** Ferocious Weasel Sport 20m 1.4. The Alcove
** Roche Moutonnee Sport 16m 1.4. The Alcove
** Where's Dr Holdfinder? Sport 20m 1.4. The Alcove
Grinder Sport 20m, 6 1.5. Farside
24 *** The engorger Sport 20m 1.1.4. Main Wall
*** Zoot alors Sport 20m 1.1.4. Main Wall
* Screamin norwester Sport 12m 1.4. The Alcove
* Hello Oleria Unknown 1.5. Farside
25 Lollapallooza Sport 25m 1.1.4. Main Wall
** Microcosmos Sport 15m 1.1.4. Main Wall
Just Add Sausages Unknown 15m 1.1.5. The Garden Bar
* Bob the builder Sport 12m 1.4. The Alcove
On Bidet Unknown 1.5. Farside
26 ** Huha Sport 12m 1.4. The Alcove
Short Black Unknown 1.5. Farside