Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Wanaka 355 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 169.064675, -44.682772

1.1. Luggate Boulders 43 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.1. Roadside Boulder 11 routes in Area

Summary:

1.2. Lakeside Boulder 15 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 169.122301, -44.665185

1.3. Mount Iron 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 169.169149, -44.689965

Description:

Generally derided by visitors this area isnt actually too bad. There are some hidden gems and the rock lends itself to slopers, interesting holds and moves. The rock can also be friable, dirty and covered in pigeon poo. Generally steep and away from the mountains it is often dry when all else is wet.

Approach:

Via the residential neighbourhood on the way to Alberttown or walk around the base of Mt Iron from near Puzzling World

1.3.1. The next best thing 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

From the access gate walk slightly right then up to the crag

Approach:

2 min

1.3.2. Ironside 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Referred to as "Ironside" in the Wanaka guide book. Take the walking track through the estate and turn right for about 50metres then left up to cliff. Climbs described left to right.

1.3.3. Middle Curtain 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Steep and some loose rock. Climbs listed from left to right as you face the crag.

1.3.4. Iron Curtain 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Walk past iron side then under middle curtain and up

1.4. West Wanaka Bluffs 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.1. Scrabble 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.5. Glendhu Bay 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

1.5.1. Glendhu Bay Upper 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.2. Glendhu Bay Boulders 4 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

1.6. Hospital Flat 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 168.970007, -44.654753

1.6.1. Cattleyard Crag 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.976042, -44.655407

1.6.2. Little Big Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.973231, -44.655433

1.6.3. The Tombstone 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.965065, -44.654415

1.6.4. The Engine Block 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.5. Whale watching wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

did through bracken then up old fixed rope to airy belay ledge

1.6.6. The Main Cliff 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 168.963336, -44.653664

1.6.7. The Hangover 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.6.8. The Conservatory 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Access by walking up and left 40m from The Crackhouse

1.6.9. Crackhouse 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

Implied in the name there are some cracks to climb along with an assortment of good bolted routes

1.6.10. Sunnyside 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

1.6.11. Warm Leatherette Buttress 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.6.12. Hospital Flat Boulders 2 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 168.945264, -44.649633

1.7. Diamond Lake 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.964844, -44.647382

1.7.1. The Cutting 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.7.2. Icehouse 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Small shady cliff with a few nice climbs and good rock quality. It is a cool place to climb on hot day

1.7.3. Bakehouse 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A good beginner to intermediate area with easy access

1.7.4. Kai Whaka Pai 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

1.7.5. Diamond Slab 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

1.7.6. Pencil Dick Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.7.7. The Rumour Mill 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.7.8. Track Side 0 routes in Cliff

1.7.9. Sharon Stone 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.7.10. Jimmy Cliff 0 routes in Cliff

1.7.11. Delta View 0 routes in Cliff

1.8. Motatapu Valley 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.949005, -44.653081

1.8.1. Riverside 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 168.953805, -44.657783

1.8.2. Toad Hall 0 routes in Cliff

1.8.3. Roadside Attraction 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 168.949371, -44.650678

Description:

Excellent

Approach:

A couple of hundred metres down the road from riverside . There is a car park on the right, directly opposite the crag. The toilet is towards the river .. in the willows.

1.8.4. The Alcove 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.5. Farside 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 168.948205, -44.653674

Approach:

Park across from Roadside Attraction, follow the well defined track along the deer fence, keep going past The Alcove until the track leads you to Farside, can't miss it. 10-15min walk.

1.8.6. Dunnyside 0 routes in Cliff

1.9. Matukituki Valley 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.9.1. Phoebe Creek 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.9.2. Road End 0 routes in Cliff

1.10. Top Boulder 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Unknown