A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Pukerua Bay 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 174.875475, -41.030328

Description:

These small gems of crags are often overlooked. What they lack in size they make up for in atmosphere and variety of climbing. The Arch is almost the great Wellington roadside attraction, with its concentration of hard bouldering; the Dionysiac Slab has good beginners’ climbs; Nobby’s Cave provides steep sport climbing; and Wairaka Rock is a tall sea stack. When to go One of the major attractions of this venue is that it is sheltered from all but the most driving northerly wind. Great conditions can be had in a southerly and a gusty nor’wester. However, if it’s been raining hard then leave the Arch for a day or two, as it will seep. What to bring You’ll want a bouldering mat at the Arch. Possibly two. The landings are nice and flat but consist almost entirely of rocks. You’ll also want a spotter. Although the problems climb solid features, some of the rock can be less than perfect. A small, soft wire-brush for cleaning moss (and soot) off some of the holds may also be useful. But please go easy on the rock. All the lead climbs are bolted, and double ropes may be useful on Wairaka Rock.

Approach:

Take State Highway 1 north from Wellington for 25 minutes to Pukerua Bay. Turn off down Pukerua Beach Road and drive along to the end of Ocean Parade. Park the car here and walk along the beach for five minutes to the Arch and a further ten minutes to the rest of the crag.

1.1. The Arch 0 routes in Sector

Description:

Offers good steep bouldering on reasonable rock with flat landings.

1.2. Dionysiac Slab 0 routes in Sector

Description:

A good spot to teach beginners to climb with 4 routes in the intermediate range. All routes finish at the same DBB at the highest point on the slab.

1.3. Wairaka Rock 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 174.870324, -41.030399

Description:

The largest of the sea stacks you come to after the gate

Approach:

About 15 minutes from the car park. Traverse around the northern end of the rock at low tide in a quiet sea, otherwise you may get wet feet!

1.4. Nobby's Cave 0 routes in Sector

Description:

A large steep cave just south of the Dionysiac Slab. Named after Nobby Clark, a hermit who once lived there. All routes are fully bolted and share a double bolt anchor.

1.5. The Shazzed Arete 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

he Shazzed! Arete was bolted in late 2013/early 2014 by Sharon Nicholas (Shaz!), Martin Broederlow and Danny Freestone. All bolts are glue in SS rod with hangers and the anchors are double ring bolts glue ins. The rock here is still crumbly in places so helmets are strongly recommended. The anchor at the top of "Too Much of a Good Thing" can be reached by an adventurous scramble from the ridgeline.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short A*s Seaweed

A short slabby route with 3 bolts. Double ring bolt anchor.

FA: Martin Broederlow, Sharon Nicholas, 2014

13 Sport 9m, 3
2 Puppydog's Big Day Out

Follow the crack up the slab and through the bush to a ledge mantle and then continue up the wide crack to either a natural anchor and walk off or rap from the "Too Much.." anchors.

FA: Martin Broederlow, Sharon Nicholas, 2013

13 Trad 12m
3 My Ideal Situation

A varied route, for those that want a bit of everything. Ride the groove, rocking over to the face and then up to mantle the ledge. Continue up to top out at a double ring bolt anchor. Shares last bolt and anchor with "Too Much...".

FA: Martin Broederlow, 2014

15 Sport 15m, 6
4 Too Much Of A Good Thing

Can you have it? Apparently so. Scramble up to below the overhang, then onto the face and move left through the overhang and up onto the face. Good jugs moving through the overhang but watch your rope doesn't the catch on the overhang. The 5th bolt is out of view from the ground. Shares last bolt and anchor with "My Ideal..."

17 Sport 15m, 6

1.6. Higher Learning Area 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 174.870971, -41.030711

Description:

All climbs are well protected and equipment is stainless steel glue in bolts. All anchors have ring hangers and approx. 10 metres above the climbing area is an additional anchor allowing abseil access to the climbing anchors. Some loose rock remains on the cliff and helmets are recommended.

Approach:

The Higher Learning Area is the first climbing area you will reach from the car park, after passing The Arch. It is located on the beach, 50m East of Wairaka Rock.

History:

In November 2014 Whitireia Polytech developed this area as a place developing climbers could practice their skills.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ballad of the Jellyfish

Climb through the blockly ground and up the obvious weakness to a double ring bolt anchor.

FA: Martin Broederlow,Sharon Nicholas,Sharon Nicholas

12 Sport 7m, 2
2 Get a Grip

Good edges straight up to the small ledge. Step up to crucial undercling then move on to the blunt arête and right to a double ring bolt anchor.

FA: Martin Broederlow,Sharon Nicholas

17 Sport 9m, 4
3 Riptide

Steep start to the huge jug. Tend left up the slab to the ledge then tend right until below the anchor. Reachy moves from here, don't get sucked out left moving to the anchor.

FA: Martin Broederlow,Sharon Nicholas

19 Sport 10m, 4
4 Apple Crumble

A steep start made easier with attention to footwork! Climb on up on to the slab using side pulls and then tend left to the double ring bolt anchor. The gulley to the right has some loose blocks.

FA: Danny Freestone,Martin Broederlow

16 Sport 10m, 4
5 Vituperative Discourse

Move through the blocky ground to the third bolt then onto the small arête. Move right to finish up the face at a double ring bolt and chain anchor.

FA: Danny Freestone,Martin Broederlow

16 Sport 10m, 4
6 Tax Dollars

At work baby. Straight up and right of the scoop. Double ring hanger anchor.

FA: Move through the blocky ground to the third bolt then onto the small arête. Move right to finish up the face at a double ring bolt,chain anchor.,Danny Freestone,Martin Broederlow

14 Sport 10m, 4
7 Sea! It's easy.

Big blocks to a ledge and somewhat awkward move above the foliage. Double ring and chain anchor.

FA: Danny Freestone,Martin Broederlow

13 Sport 10m, 4
8 Molti Momenti

The right most route on the crag (not pictured), from under the overhang up and right through the shallow groove. Steep onto the blunt arête and climb up to the ledge. Continue up to a double ring hanger anchor below the big block.

FA: Martin Broederlow,Sharon Nicholas

14 Sport 15m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Ballad of the Jellyfish Sport 7m, 2 1.6. Higher Learning Area
13 Puppydog's Big Day Out Trad 12m 1.5. The Shazzed Arete
Short A*s Seaweed Sport 9m, 3 1.5. The Shazzed Arete
Sea! It's easy. Sport 10m, 4 1.6. Higher Learning Area
14 Molti Momenti Sport 15m, 5 1.6. Higher Learning Area
Tax Dollars Sport 10m, 4 1.6. Higher Learning Area
15 My Ideal Situation Sport 15m, 6 1.5. The Shazzed Arete
16 Apple Crumble Sport 10m, 4 1.6. Higher Learning Area
Vituperative Discourse Sport 10m, 4 1.6. Higher Learning Area
17 Too Much Of A Good Thing Sport 15m, 6 1.5. The Shazzed Arete
Get a Grip Sport 9m, 4 1.6. Higher Learning Area
19 Riptide Sport 10m, 4 1.6. Higher Learning Area