Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Baring Head Entrance | |||||
V5 | ★★ Ruffle Your Feathers
Low traverse on the first decent sized boulder when approaching the entrance. Some sneaky holds, great problem. FA: Jono Clarke | ||||
V6 | ★★ Super Low Traverse 1
Found on the wall directly behind RYF. For V6 stick to holds in the yellow band and avoid using heel hooks. FA: Unknown | ||||
Baring Head Seaward Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ The Girdle
Traverse. | ||||
VB | Descent Route
The easiest way to the top. Climb the obvious groove. The best way down after completing boulders on the sides of Seaward Boulder. | 8m | |||
VB+ | ★ Tongue and Groove | ||||
V0 | ★ Incut
The small overhanging face. At the top veer left. Variations exist with eliminate options. | 8m | |||
V1 | ★★ North Arete
Excellent boulder with some scoopy jugs. High for a boulder with a fall onto the sand. Optional sit start adds a grade. Big move to a triangular knob left of the arete. | 8m | |||
Unnamed | |||||
VB+ | West Slab | ||||
Unnamed2 | |||||
Unnamed3 | |||||
V0 | ★★ Seaward Break | ||||
V0 | ★ South East Arete | ||||
V0 | South East Crack | ||||
VB+ | ★ South East Groove | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Arete Direct | ||||
V0 | ★★ Seaward Arete | ||||
V1 | ★ East Face Traverse | ||||
V0 | ★★ East Face | ||||
V0 | Fetch | ||||
V0 | ★★ Arete Indirect | ||||
V0 | Backrush | ||||
Baring Head Split Apple | |||||
V3 | ★★ Left Arete
Climb the left arete on its right side. Sit-start, then link a collection of slopey holds up the arete. FA: Unknown | ||||
V0 | Left Wall
Climb the left side of the face. Begin on the rail, finish up the v groove. FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Split Apple
The classic Baring Head problem. Straight up the middle of Split Apple. Can be done as a dyno raising the difficulty to V3. From the central jug, high feet, then dyno to the top. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Split Apple Dyno
From the central jug, dyno to the lip and exit direct. FA: Unknown | ||||
V2 | ★★ Right Wall
Avoid the central jug, climb directly up and through the v groove. FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Right Arete
Climb the right Arete while avoiding any good holds, instead using slopers and crimps. FA: Unknown | ||||
V4 | ★★ Split Apple Low Traverse
Sit-start on the left arete and traverse right, stay below the height of the large rail at the right end of the wall. FA: Unknown | ||||
V6 | ★ Super Low Traverse 2
Traverse left to right using the line of holds below the holds used for the Low Traverse. FA: Unknown | ||||
Baring Head Bridging Boulders | |||||
VB | VE | 4m | |||
VB | ★★ VE 2 | 8m | |||
VB+ | ★ VM | 8m | |||
V0 | V0 | 8m | |||
V6 | Slap Attack
FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn | 8m | |||
VB | VE 3 | 8m | |||
Baring Head The Slabs | |||||
VB | Pedestal | 8m | |||
V0 | ★★★ Left Left
The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds appear just as you need them. Top out straight up. | 10m | |||
V0 | ★★ Right Left
An easy start leads to thought-provoking moves through the ledge and bulge. Finish on the rib bordering the chimney. Unlike the left-hand route on this slab, people have fallen off this route and survived. | 10m | |||
V0 | Slab Chimney | 10m | |||
V1 | ★ Cripple | 10m | |||
V0 | ★★ Left Right
Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow. | 10m | |||
V0 | ★★ Right Right
Sustained climbing on thin edges. | 10m | |||
V0 | ★ Slab Arête
A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure | 10m | |||
Baring Head Lean-To Rock | |||||
V7 | ★ Speeding Up
Begin right of the Stepping Out arete and traverse left, finishing on the ledge to the right of Loaded. Has also been climbed left to right. FA: Steve Conn, 1999 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Stepping Out
An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds. FA: Charlie Creese | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ Showing Off
Start up Stepping Out and then into the final moves of A Show Of Strength. FA: Unknown | 6m | |||
V8 | ★★★ A Show of Strength
A classic test-piece and the first boulder to be assigned the grade V8 in NZ. Starting 2m left of the arête, pull up and right to a narrow slot in the seam. Holding this, cross over with your left hand (crux) to the pod used on Stepping Out. Match, then make a committing move up and left to a sloper. Bring your other hand up then lunge for the top. Stay off the arête. If you avoid the cross-over, you only get 7 points. (Beta Video - https://vimeo.com/256560098) FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 6m | |||
V9 | ★ Le Special
This problem links Speeding Up into A Show Of Strength. Sustained crimping. FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn | 8m | |||
V9 | ★ Power, Corruption and Lies
This problem eliminates the pod on A Show Of Strength. Instead of crossing over from the vertical slot, make a hard move left to a small crimp. Move your right hand up above the pod to a sloping seam then snatch to the sloper. Match and finish direct. FA: Steve Conn, 1999 | 6m | |||
V10 | ★ La Connexion
If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies. FA: John Palmer, 2012 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★ Tango With The Tumbleweeds
Climb the wall immediately right of the crack on tiny holds. Finish up Loaded (always with hands and feet right of the crack). Better than you might think. FA: Derek Thatcher, 1999 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ Loaded
Start up the obvious crack. Once at the rounded lip, move right under the bulge and climb straight up. FA: Gary Wallace, 1997 | 6m | |||
V0 | Beautiful Edges
A beautiful series of edges in the crack. | 6m | |||
Baring Head Long Wall | |||||
VB+ | Long Wall Traverse | ||||
V1 | ★ Right Break | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ Lost Boys
Opposite stepping out on the lean to boulder. Gain two small slots in the obvious horizontal break and step high to reach a good side pull. Top out over the bulge via small holds. FA: David Orsman | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★ The Love Bite
Just to the right of Lost Boys, climb the blank face via feisty crimps and a positive two finger edge. Eases off for the top out. FA: David Orsman | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Graeme Dingle’s Last Great Problem | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ Neils Arete
FA: Neil Parker | ||||
V3 | ★★ The Pocket Route
Starts just right of Neils Arete. A variety of good holds lead up to an unusual two finger pocket, crank off this to the jug and exit direct. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Dave Skilton’s Problem
Committing. Veer up and left to the bulge. Grope over the bulge for a vague edge in the middle of the scoop. Continue up right using some passable holds, finishing with a high step-up onto the scoop. FA: Dave Skilton, 1985 | 6m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Check Your Head
AKA ‘The Scoop’. A classic problem that requires good footwork, subtle movements and fingers of steel. FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2000 | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bailer | ||||
V1 | ★★★ Triple Dyno | ||||
V2 | ★★★ Swinging Dyno | ||||
V6 | Super Direct
FA: Neil Parker | ||||
V2 | Swinging Groove | ||||
V1 | Right Groove | ||||
V2 | ★★ Eliminate Groove | ||||
V1 | ★ D-Ring | ||||
V3 | Mikes Arete | ||||
V0 | Blockout | 8m | |||
VB+ | The Fissure | ||||
V2 | ★ Skinny Pillar | ||||
VB+ | ★ The Layback | 9m | |||
V2 | The Niche | ||||
VB+ | Sticky | ||||
VB+ | ★ Styley | ||||
VB+ | ★ The Bulge | 7m | |||
V0 | Slopy | ||||
VB+ | ★ Short crack | ||||
VB+ | The Corner | ||||
VB+ | Bucket Route | ||||
VB | ★ Easy Wall | ||||
VB | Middle Wall | ||||
VB+ | ★ Obvious Crack | ||||
VB+ | Right Crack | ||||
VB | Slight Crack | ||||
VB | Far Corner | ||||
VB | Far Corner | ||||
VB | Ordinary Route | ||||
VB+ | End Arete | ||||
Baring Head Overhanging Wall | |||||
V5 | The Far side | ||||
V1 | ★★ Crack Route | ||||
V4 | ★★★ The Pillar
FA: Neil Parker | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Sand in the Vaseline
FA: Chris Sanderson | ||||
V6 | Col's Pilar
FA: Colin Pohl | ||||
Baring Head Pyramid Wall | |||||
V2 | Pyramid Left
Eliminate - See Rock Deluxe North. | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Pyramid Right
Eliminate - See Rock Deluxe North. | 6m |