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Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern Norway 4,169 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 68.149998, 20.000629

1.1. Nordland 2,966 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 67.267949, 14.362337

1.1.1. Vesterålen 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 68.869304, 15.334023

1.1.2. Lofoten 1,602 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 68.140538, 13.991548

description

There´s separate guidebooks available for the trad & sport, bouldering & skiing. For information on winter climbing, a combination of the facebook group & TheCrag are your best resources.

Where possible, please support businesses which contribute to the local climbing scene. Guidebooks and equipment are available in Svolvær from Skandinavisk, locally based & certified guides from I Fri Natur and Bergtagen and shoe resoling from the Kabelvåg based Artic Soles.

approach

Prime rock climbing season is May to late September.

Because of it´s coastal climate, ice conditions vary wildly. When the ice gods are kind, December to February is the best time to swing an axe. If the gods are mad, more stable continental conditions can found around Narvik & Abisko.

Peak ski touring conditions kick in when the polar storms subside & mørketid is over (February to April).

where to stay

A good start for general trip logistics can be found on the

Tourism Bureau Website

history

A dirty little secret of Lofoten trad climbing is things generally aren´t so steep & grades are a little soft. For visiting climbers searching for a challenge, here are some suggested, well protected, testpiece routes at the grade

N6
'Den siste viking'[947114307]
N6+
'Vågarisset'[952649253]
N7-
'Housewives'[1297461978]
N7
'Elvis'[1296441462]
N7+
'Ormen Lange'[953259474]
N8-
'Dorisraffset'[1297494270]
N8
'Stålormsrisset'[1297514775]
N8+
'Thundra'[5019676818]
N9-
'Minnerisset'[952515417]

1.1.3. Ofoten 487 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 68.516670, 16.557746

summary

The mountains found here tower above Lofoten & have year round appeal with world class rock, ice, skiing & trail running options all within an hour or two of the CBD.

description

The most recently released guide to the rock is `Stetind and Narvik, dancing on the devils dancefloor´.

Rick McGregor has published some descriptions of ice along the E10 to Sweden. These are freely available online

Certified, locally based guides are available from Bergtagen & Fjellfører i Nord.

access issues

The tourist website sucks. The TL/DR is either get the train from Sweden into Narvik (via Stockholm or Kiruna) or Fly (into Evenes or Kiruna). Pick up a hire car from either airport. For international travellers, an overnight train from Stockholm is usually the cheapest and most relaxing option.

Frustratingly, flights and connecting buses rarely line up in the North. With some patience, you can use public transport to get between Evenes, Narvik, Lofoten and Tromsø. Search here

Link to the overnight Swedish rail here

approach

Peak rock climbing season is June to September.

Ice climbing is usually best December to March.

The best skiing is February to April

1.1.4. Salten 770 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 67.331992, 15.110250

summary

Somewhat overshadowed by Lofoten to the North & the Narvik region to the East, Salten has excellent ice, good bouldering and some well developed sport crags. It´s a nice place to start a trip.

description

The Bodø klatreklubb has freely available guides for the trad and sport routes online. A new bouldering guide, Artic circle bouldering was released in 2019.

A guidebook for the ice, Vinterklatring i Bodø-området is available online or from Skandinavisk.

1.1.5. Helgeland 63 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 66.049844, 13.112249

1.2. Troms 1,113 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 69.484324, 19.228078

description

There´s no guidebook for rock still in publication. The best resource is via the brattelinjer platform.

For ice, resources are scattered all over the internet. Information for Tromsø & the Lyngen area here, Indre-Troms here & Sør-Troms / closer to Narvik here

1.2.1. Nord-Troms 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 69.752713, 21.209182

1.2.2. Tromsø 861 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 69.891936, 18.805456

1.2.3. Lyngen 35 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 69.649822, 19.681264

summary

Lyngen is mecca for the skiing and alpine climbing crowd. It also hosts some of the best ice climbing in the North. But has close to none summer climbing.

description

The spectacular looking rock on Lyngen is unfortunately very chossy (loose). There are much better options around for summer climbing - most notably Baugen on Kvaløya, and Kvaloya otherwise too.

Most things close to the road have been climbed but in that classic North-Norwegian "keep it wild" style, little has been written down.

Recommendeed guidebook for winter climbing is "The Lyngen Alps - Skiing climbing trekking". The guidebook is skiing and mountaineering centric but has some descriptions for where to start with the ice climbing. https://www.friflyt.no/bok/the-lyngen-alps-skiing-climbing-trekking

A lot of this ice has also been described over on the Northern Norway Ice blog.

1.2.4. Indre Troms 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 68.935270, 19.290735

1.2.5. Sør-Troms 178 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Ice climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 69.057054, 17.178899

1.3. Finnmark 90 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 70.218079, 26.034641

summary

There´s established climbing & potential for many new routes in the Alta region. The main online resource is Opp i Alta https://oppialta.no/klatrefelt.htm

1.3.1. Alta 0 routes in Area

1.3.2. Akkarfjord 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 70.612296, 23.654753

description

The area features 4 bolted routes, with additional bolts on the cliff above so you can safely setup top-ropes from above. There's at least 20+ known boulders in the area.

approach

Parking at the crossroads between main road and the road to the ferry. Simple 5 minute walk from the crag it self. Do NOT park on the same side of the road as the crag is, both lots are private property.

1.3.3. Himmeldalen 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 69.991607, 23.506715

description

1.3.4. Bannenes 0 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Aslakheimen 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

description

1.3.6. Komsa 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

description

1.3.7. Salkobekken 0 routes in Crag

description

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