Ascents in Oceania by Vanessa Wills

Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.

Couldn’t clip anchors. Had to do an inverted kneebar second go- Dave just reached past and had no problem.

The moves were ok, but fall potential left me nervous. Quite hard.

Found the move off belay at start the hardest en route ( short arms). Second pitch just lovely. Led P2 and 3…..

We came down to consider rebolting with anchors-feels sandbagged at 23 without bridging across chimney. Came to no decision. Weirdly it was chalked up

The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.

Amazed I Onsighted this, so slippery today

Hard. Forgot helmet, didn’t feel like leading these spaced bolted climbs.

Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.

Rpt, feels more 22 if short.

Rpt, seems easier than last year on the mantles

Rpt, changes every year

Pretty crappy climbing up to a hard and interesting crux sequence. Harder than any move on influenza. Not sure it’s worth the effort, but it filled in the afternoon.

Some nice moves once in the stemming groove. The 9 th or 10th bolt’s nut was quite loose. I finger tightened it, worth bringing a spanner

Rpt, warm up

Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.

Rpt.

Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.

Interesting enough, found it as tough as the other two, though may have been just reacquainting myself with the Pipes dolerite

Intricate crux at about third height for me that was quite enjoyable. A bit stop/ start from half height

Didn’t find this any harder than the 2 routes to the right ( though did a silly slip below crux).

Not too bad for a late addition, though top a bit contrived and friable

Interesting lower section

Did top section clean from below roof, but rained off after this.

Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!

A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry

Rpt. The little pockets were very slimy today. 2 laps.

Rpt. Nice flash by Flynn for his Duke of Ed

Rpt

Rpt. Very dirty

Rpt

Rpt

Original ascent solo, rpt today

Original ascent was solo, weirdly coming up as red point. Rpt today

Rpt.

Rpt

Rpt. Still feels hard for grade, height dependent for sure

Rpt

A grade or two harder if you don’t have the reach off the foot pocket to the flake up high. About 20 attempts!

Bonus crux move for the short and a long dead point.

Sit start for more moves

Done many of these about 15 years ago when bouldering was just training….but nice spot on a summers afternoon

Rpt, exit.

My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.

Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack

Rpt

Rpt

The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.

A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.

Hopefully the predicted rain will settle the dust. Really great and varied moves and steeper than it looks. One go on TR to brush the holds then sent with a bit of power grunting and wobbling before we had to leave.

Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.

Rpt

Rpt. Quite a tricky one

finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress

Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.