Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. New Caledonia 8 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 165.896868, -21.007657

Description:

Climbing is relatively new to New Caledonia. With the island being one big 500km long mountain range and a bunch of keen French climbers now resident here, this will no doubt be a space to watch for Aussies wanting an island climbing holiday in the future.

The main area is the limestone at Koumac on the West Coast in the far north of the island with the beautiful Grottes de Koumac and Roches De Notre Dame. Although Hieghene on the north end of the notrth end of the stunning east coast promises a wonderland with a vast amount of limestone cast towers and faces not unlike parts of Thailand.

1.1. Fort Tereka 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 166.390292, -22.250739

Unique Features And Strengths:

Very close to Noumea and great view!

Description:

Pretty much the only natural crag I found in the Noumea area, it's all bolted by the ffme (the french federation) and relatively short but there are some cool moves and the view is very nice. Most of the climbs are easy but there are few harder overhangs routes. The beach is a must to wash the sweat off after a session since the crag is in the sun from early morning to late afternoon.

Access Issues:

By road, 15 minutes drive from Noumea. -22.250853, 166.389721

Approach:

From Noumea, drive towards the University of New Caledonia in Nouville. Continue on the road until you hit Kuendu bay but turn right before the beach/hotel and then take the first dirt road on the right, at the fork keep left and climbing all the way to the canons. The climbs are at the top you can't miss them.

1.1.1. Le Tunnel 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Discovery cliff, 8 routes from 3 to 5a.

1.1.2. Le Banian 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Discovery, 12 routes from 3 to 5a

1.1.3. Le Promontoire 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 166.390209, -22.250617

Description:

Sport, 10 routes from 4c to 6b

1.1.4. La Grotte 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Sport, 5 routes from 5c to 7b

1.1.5. No Name Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Just a small boulder good for traverse.

1.2. Koumac 0 routes in Area

Description:

An area of limestone hills approx 400 kms north of Noumea.

Approach:

Follow the main highway North from Noumea to the village of Koumac where camping can be found by the sea. The town has a few general stores and a couple of restaurants, a small population bolstered by the nearby mines, fishing and tourism from the reef.

History:

The area was bolted in recent years by a bunch of keen french locals. An amount of money was supplied for the equipping from the French Alpine Federation and the local Tourism board. The routes are very well bolted with lower off and large expansion bolts or glue ins.

1.2.1. Les Roches Notre Dame 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Very cool lone pinacles made of sharp limestone.

Description:

Les Roches Notre Dame is an area that was developed by a bunch of very keen french locals with help from the French Alpine Federation and the local Tourism board. The routes are very safely bolted and each route and area is well marked and sign posted. Approx 100 routes 5a - 8a.

Access Issues:

Follow the main road north out of Koumac towards Ouegoa (RPN1) approx 4.8 km, the turn R onto the RPN7 toward Ouegoa. Follow the RPN7 for approx 5.4km. The crag becomes very obvious and there is a marked pullout on the R side of the road.

Approach:

From the parking lot follow the path to a small tabled picnic area and split off to the seperate sectors from here. These are sign posted on a well constructed sign board.

Where To Stay:

Koumac has a range of options from camping near the beach to cabins and B and B.

Ethic:

Sport bolted French style with nice large lowers offs

History:

Bolted in the late 2000s by the keen local French Climbers.

1.2.2. Grottes de Koumac 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

A small set of limetsone caves near the town of Koumac with some bolted sport routes near the entrance.

Approach:

Driving directions to Grotted de Koumac. From the centre of Koumac

  1. Head south-east on RPN1 (back towards Noumea) 1.4 km

  2. Take the 1st left at 2.2 km

  3. Turn right onto Unknown road follow this for 6.0 km.

Descent Notes:

Lower offs

History:

Bolted approw 2010 by keen local french climbers.