Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Russia 306 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 104.531399, 63.039408

1.1. Moscow 0 routes in Region

1.2. St. Petersburg 112 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 28.997944, 60.954763

1.2.1. Triangular lake 106 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 29.172959, 61.109515

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the most popular climbing areas in Russia. About 160 sport climbing routes (grades from 5 to 9), bouldering routes.

Description:

The climbing sectors are located around the spectacularly beautiful Triangular lake.

Access Issues:

The Triangular lake and the climbing area around is accessible for free, it is not private. However, the neighbouring land Lietlahti Eco Park is privat. The weather is ok for climbing from May to September (inclusive).

Approach:

The best way (by quality of the road) goes through a frontier zone where a special permit is required (more difficult to acquire for foreigners). Drive towards Svetogorsk, a few km before Svetogorsk turn right to Losevo and then to the North around the Voroshilov lake, pass Lietlahti on your left side and arive at the Triangular lake. This way is accessible by an ordinary clearance car but the higher the better. The is another way where no special permit is required (through Svobodnoye) but it is only accessible for a specially prepared 4X4 vehical.

Where To Stay:

You can camp at the Triangular lake (no prepared facilities, just a piece of land on the bank of the lake) or you can book a room (beforehand) or a camping place (anytime) at Lietlahti which is a farmer's house about 2 km from the lake. There are toilets, water, gas and sauna at Lietlahti available to you if you rent a room or a camping place. The farmer at Lietlahti is very friendly and hospitable.

Ethic:

There are not many places at the lake to park. If you find none, park at Lietlahti. If you park at the lake, don't leave your car on the road so that no other cars can bypass! Generally accepted climbing ethics are also relevant.

History:

The area was discovered by Konstantin Beketov and Vladimir Molodozhon in 2000 and has been rapidly developed since then. First routes were bolted by Alexander Rakhmanin and Mikhail Ovsyannikov. More then half of the routes by now have been prepared by Alexey Tselischev.

1.2.2. Palcevo 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 28.806401, 60.790757

1.3. Lechenkif Crag 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 43.319039, 43.534447

Unique Features And Strengths:

It has it all, 30 meter sport routes, pumpy boulders and a wide variety of highballs.

Description:

It is located 40 minutes from the republic’s capital of Nalchik and is on most days easily driven to in most any type of vehicle. The rock type is Tuff which allows for a great variety of holds but tends to be on the soft side. There are cracks, crimps, sloppers, bulges, wacos, pockets both passive and positive big and small, pinches, off-widths and the list goes on and on. The area is still being developed and has endless potential. Parts of the crag are climbable most days all of the year due to it's unique placement in a small valley and the south facing face of the main cliff. In summer you'll find routes that are shaded and cool. In spring and fall you'll find routes that are overhung (keeps you dry) as well as in direct sun to keep you warm. In winter if the sun is shining the south facing wall will warm up to a perfect 65* of quiet calm. All sport routes are well protected and most have stainless steel bolts and belay stations. Trad climbing is limitless with the only barrier being your ability to push your limits and the occasional loose boulder the size of a VW Beatle. Marked routes are clean and safe but climb cautiously at other unmarked locations.

Access Issues:

The Crag is easily driven to on most days by car although in winter and spring the road can become impassable by car requiring a four wheel drive. It's located 5 kilometers past the village of Lechenky on a well traveled dead end gravel road. The gravel road is 8 kilometers long and you'll know when you get to the crag because you'll narrow into a small valley with the wall 40 meters to your right. In Russia there are very few places in the woods, hills or mountains that are off limits due to private property and those that there are tend to be well marked.

Approach:

Drive up, park and walk the 40 meters or so to the wall. The hardest things about the approach (in the summer) is the growth of the very healthy stinging nettle which locals say is good for you. The plant life grows to Jurassic park proportions.

Where To Stay:

Nalchik (the republic’s capital) has many modestly priced hotels and sanatoriums (the Russian equivalent of a hotel/hostel) but camping at the crag on climbing days is preferred. There are 3 camping sites each of which allows for different groups sizes. Closest to the crag will host 3-4 tents. Just down from the crag (perhaps 500 meters) is our second campsite which can host 5-6 tents and still further down the road (approximately 2 kilometers) is our third campsite which can hold 20 – 30 tents.

Ethic:

The biggest thing we can ask is that you keep the trash picked up and use common sense when finding a place to use the bathroom. Bolting is best left to those who have the experience and equipment but help in the process is always appreciated. Chalk when needed but use sparingly if possible.

History:

This area was first bolted by an unknown Russian whom I believe lives in the Krasnodar area. He made some homemade hangers in his shop, bought some anchors from the local market and started drilling. He set 2 routes and one traverse. Many of the hangers are still hanging on but plans to remove them are in process. 4 years ago another groups of climbers found the area and began developing it. There are now 26 routes and counting with endless potential. Every time we look up we see another great route. We are now also in the process of building a 200 meter zip-line that will span the valley giving each person a thrilling ride 60 meters off the valley floor.

1.4. Krasnodar 185 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 39.351548, 44.753668

1.4.1. Induk 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 39.279597, 44.242924

1.4.2. Red Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.4.3. New Rocks 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 38.328267, 44.731107

1.4.4. Planchen Rocks 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 38.612236, 44.653387

1.4.5. Guamka 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 39.901643, 44.210515

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the most popular climbing areas in the south of Russia. About 200 sport climbing routes (grades from 5 to 9)

Description:

The climbing sectors are located mostly around the river Kurdzhips canyon.Limestone rocks.

1.4.6. Adler Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.4.7. Monastery 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 38.371772, 44.591987

1.4.8. Adygea Rocks 53 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 40.125690, 44.185115