Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Blok ispod puta | |||||||
6c | ★★ Lepa Brena | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slippery crux
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Soko Grad, Ljubovija | |||||||
Vodopad | |||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★ Čunga Lunga - with Bojan Š | ★ Good | |||||
Hard top treverse.
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6b | ★ Neznani junak | ★ Good | |||||
Hard top
|
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Grdoba | |||||||
Kameleon | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Plavi — 3 attempts - with Bojan Š | 7m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fin smer sa lepom sekvencom pokreta.
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Fri 9th Feb 2024 - Grdoba | |||||||
Noa Magnus | |||||||
7a Hard | ★★★ Arthur C. Clarke — 2 attempts - with Igor Milenkovic, Marjan Bugarinovic | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best route at Grdoba!
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Grdoba | |||||||
Noa Magnus | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Starac i more - with Bojan Š | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy climb, with jugs all over the place.
|
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6b | ★★ Presidente Ernan Cataneo — 3 attempts - with Bojan Š | 10m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fin smer, deli top sa Nacionalnom klasom, sleb sa poketima i sloperima.
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Grdoba | |||||||
Psiho | |||||||
7c ~7c+ | ★★★ Grand Turismo — 4 attempts | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Hard crux of Super Surfer followed by beautiful climbing.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Sportiva | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Mijurko
1
6a+
50m
2
3a
40m
| 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Zanimljiv detalj. Odličan odmor pre njega, iskoristiti ga.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - V2 | |||||||
Poletarac | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Terminator | 10m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The last but one bolt is too far of the previous - the root height is not enough IMHO
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Ključ | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★★ Bežični prenos | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldery as fuck on nice but small edges and poor feet. Flake section requires a specific sequence to set up correctly for the big last love to the jug then it’s over.
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7b Easy | ★ Arakis | 19m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Demanding moves on textures slopers and pinches for 4-5 bolts then bigger holds to the top. Short-lived core-intensive crux. Hard to read
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | |||||||
6a | ★ Mimikrija | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice crack! Super fun moves but it gets weird at the flared part when you have to go right. The bolts are too low and right to use and it makes more sense just to finish on the left variation
|
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6a+ | ★★ Vremenska patrola | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd warmup. Start is the same but it’s so cool it’s worth doing twice. Top is ok but not as exciting
|
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Ključ | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★★★ Vremenski paradox | 27m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredible. Best route I’ve done in Serbia, period. Technical power endurance, insanely cool moves, multiple crux sections.
|
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | |||||||
6c ~6b+ | ★★★ Lavina suza | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Break out the crack technique for this one, holy balls! So cool. Crux is low between B2-4. Climbing it like a crack makes it feel 6b with good beta. Fees 6c-ish with bad footwork. Middle overhang is an absolute blast on finger locking pockets. The upper mantle was VERY committing, and there’s a specific way to do it that makes it feel easy, otherwise you might be going for a ride. The final headwall is really cool movement on jugs but the broken rock to the left is a little suspect (climb with caution) even though most of it has been trundled appropriately. All in all this will feel 6b max if you are decent at cracks, and harder if you aren’t.
|
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6a | ★★★ Sinusoida | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting slopey holds. The FA’s really did a good job cleaning this route, and bolted it really safely for new leaders
|
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
H2O | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Double Trouble | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked out beta until the second rest after the hardest moves through the roof. What a piece of beef. At least 7c+ until this rest, ran out of daylight and couldn’t finish the last bit so no idea on the full grade. Stoked to come back for it.
|
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
Rock & Friends | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Pre Kiše | 13m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bouldery, sequence-dependent start followed by a short power endurance section. Get a good rest, then finish with a badass, steep overhang on jugs.
|
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Zubje | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ The Elder Scrolls | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Juggy and thuggy, just how I like it! The top half looks like shit from the ground but it’s honestly the most fun part. Lots of cool moves the entire way. 2nd try.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Anđeo čuvar | 19m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Kind of a crap start until you get past the dirt ledge then the remainder is super textured pinches, edges and foot-walking. Finish has a little vegetation but the key holds are there. Do not grab the ledge above the break when you need to traverse right to anchors. It’s REALLY brittle and chossy with golfball-sized blocks that come off easily.
|
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6b+ Hard | ★★ Dirižabl | 13m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unique line with an interesting flowy traverse crux. Broke a damn hold before I even got to it though, and fell -_- . Onsighted the route otherwise.
|
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6b ~6a+ | ★ Biplane | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice! Still some loose pebbles but a quality warmup
|
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
Rock & Friends | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Rock & Friends | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
One hard move down low with a weird finish. Underwhelming
|
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
N.R.C.C. 2007 | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Tara | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Really tricky to read. Had to hang at the crux to find the holds. Super textured. Would feel 5.10c/d knowing beta.
|
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
H2O | |||||||
7a+ ~7b+ | Kriva Koska | 18m, 10 | Don't Bother | ||||
Polished and super sandbagged. Not even worth the skin
|
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
N.R.C.C. 2007 | |||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Šišmiš | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rebolted at some point and opened again. Incredible beautiful route with technical bouldery moves the entire way. Great introduction to Serbian climbing. Solid 5.11a/b
|
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Novi Sad | |||||||
6c Easy | ★★★ Drogon — 3 attempts | 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed this route few cm on the left from the bolts. Few cool crimpyslopy holds.
|
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Vrmdža | |||||||
Sokolovica Sokolovica | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Glavobolja | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Perfect route with amazing moves in crimpy overhang.
|
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Stol, Bor | |||||||
Nirvana | |||||||
6a+ ~6b |
SKP
1
3
10m
2
5c
25m
3
6a+
40m
| 75m | |||||
It's an old trad route bolted and the crux is really hard for that grade. You should take some pro with you.
|
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Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Vrmdža | |||||||
Panteon Srpskih bogova Devojački kamen | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Devana — 4 attempts - with Marjan Bugarinovic | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
On last crux pinch for right hand got crumbled, but I think it's still same grade since there is a good crim that can be used instead of it.
|
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Ključ Kids | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Koralić | 6m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Very sharp tufa.
|
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | |||||||
5a | ★★ Morfing | 13m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ocena oko 5b/c
|
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Užice | |||||||
Stari Grad Blok A | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Tena - with veselo-majmunce | 16m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Good golds. Pumping rihgt hand.
|
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Kanjon Resave, Beljanica | |||||||
Opservatorija | |||||||
6b | Aj ti - with Art Vandelay | Average | |||||
Lost in the upper part had some choss and need cleaning , very beautiful first part
|
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7b+ | ★★ Galileo - with Art Vandelay | 9m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did all the moves apart the first draw that was wet
|
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6a | ★★ Tiho Brahe - with Art Vandelay | 9m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very beautiful route unfortunately wet in parts
|
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Agonija - with Art Vandelay | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice wall climbing, tried to get an idea of the difficulty. Did the second easier part foumd out most of the moves in the first one, impossible to do them in this heat.
|
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Tue 4th Jul 2023 - V2 | |||||||
Poletarac | |||||||
7a+ ~6c+ | ★★ Spiderman | 10m, 8 | |||||
It was always an 6c+
nothing changed on the route and in the old guidebooks it says 8-(6c+)
|
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Serpentina - with Marjan Bugarinovic | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Awesome crimpy route.
|
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Grdoba | |||||||
Psiho | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Psoglavi — 2 attempts - with Bojan Š | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Neki podhvati su bili mokri iznutra i neki gazovi
|
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Wed 10th May 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
Smerovi uz put | |||||||
5c | ★★ Viseći Vrtovi | 10m, 7 | |||||
FA with pre clipped draws
|
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6b Easy | ★★ Pussy | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FA with pre clipped draws
|
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Užice | |||||||
Stari Grad Blok B | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Kekec — 2 attempts | 14m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite bouldery crux sequence.
|
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Užice | |||||||
Stari Grad Blok A | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Svi smo isti — 3 attempts | 22m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
Big Dream | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Sve te vodilo k meni | 75m | ★ Good | ||||
Prljav sa dosta trave, ruža, malih žbunova, na momente smo naišli na random boltove, u jednoj trenutnu čak tri sidrista na jednom mestu.
|
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Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★ Valjevsko pivo | ★ Good | |||||
Very long route with bolting gaps
|
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Rajac | |||||||
Mali Majdan | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Virtuoz - with Bojan Š | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mokar smer... Ali deluje lepo
|
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Rajac | |||||||
Veliki Majdan | |||||||
7a+ ~6c | ★★ Nonijus — 4 attempts - with Filip Petrović | 9m, 7 | |||||
Beta koja ide pomalo udesno ali i dalje u rasponu ruku od boltova je definitivno laksa od 7a+
|
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Prakosovo (2. pitch) — 3 attempts | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
40+ meters
|
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
6c | Žastin — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Long route with varied climbing
|
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Hisaja | ★ Good | |||||
The crux is awesome. Easy until the top.
|
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6b | ★★ Slatka kučka — 2 attempts - with Bojan Š | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lep detalj sa kojeg se nastavlja lepo penjanje do samog vrha.
|
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
7b+ Easy | ★★ Dogodine u Prizrenu — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Anchor is bolted a bit weird... Otherwise, cool route
|
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7a+ | ★★ Lola — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Crimpy start follower by good holds
|
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Novi Sad | |||||||
4a ~5a+ | Casterly rock | 5 | |||||
Rekao bih da je ovaj smer teži od 4a.
|
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4c ~5a+ | ★★ Blackwater — 2 attempts | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Staza je po meni teža od 4c.
|
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Grdoba | |||||||
Noa Magnus | |||||||
6a+ | J... Vas Radnički | 10m, 6 | Average | ||||
Start vrlo čudan, rupa pored, posebno je nezgodno osiguravanje. Oštra stena.
|
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - V3 | |||||||
Posle 2000 | |||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Stardust | 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice warm up
|
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7a ~6c+ | ★ Mali od palube | 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Ripped off a good 1 pad hold right after a 3-move crux so there is a huge jug to the right now. That could've made the route easier.
|
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Sun 25th Dec 2022 - Grdoba | |||||||
Psiho | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ I nož i pogača - with Marjan Bugarinovic | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bouldery start, with crack climbing to the top.
|
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7a Hard | ★★★ Leva Ruka Tame - with Marjan Bugarinovic | 15m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing route.
|
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7a+ | ★★ Aurora Australis — 2 attempts - with Marjan Bugarinovic | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route with crux on top.
|
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Akvamont | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Receptor — 3 attempts | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climbing. The anchor is very hard to put the draw in (almost nothing to hold)
|
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6b | ★★ VGN | 23m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Upper section is a bit crumbly. Be careful where you belay from.
|
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Mali Majdan | |||||||
7a | ★★ Balast — 4 attempts | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short and sweet
|
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Grdoba | |||||||
Noa Magnus | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Starac i more | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy
|
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Hisaja | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Detalj pretposlednje kopcanje tezak, sve ostalo fino.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Junšpi (1. pitch) - with Bojan Š | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Kul smer, jaka pumpica
|
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Sokolina | |||||||
4c | ★★★ Kontraš - with Bojan Š | 11m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lep za zagrevanje, odlicna kopcanja.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Pseudo - with Bojan Š | 10m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Na smeru izgleda neko skinuo nulu za prevezivanje. Inace odlican smer
|
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Grdoba | |||||||
Noa Magnus | |||||||
6c+ | Posao za Supermena | 15m, 9 | |||||
Tough one but very nice.
|
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6a+ | J... Vas Radnički | 10m, 6 | |||||
Tried many years ago. Had the opportunity to climb again.
|
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Ilijada (1. pitch) — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Just perfect!
|
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Novi blok | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Tabu — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good rest before cruxy mid
|
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7a | ★★ Ide (1. pitch) — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Diverse route
|
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6b+ | ★★ Monah Gavrilo (1. pitch) | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Enter the Vangladesh! Awesome slight overhang on jugs
|
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Gornjačka klisura | |||||||
Sportiva | |||||||
5b | ★★ Kobrica - with sneskonja | 120m | |||||
Full bolted route as all other in sector Sportiva except route "Jagnjeca brigada"
|
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5c | Maljčiki - with sneskonja | 110m | |||||
Full bolted route as all other in sector Sportiva except route "Jagnjeca brigada"
|
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Soko Grad, Ljubovija | |||||||
Vodopad | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Munja — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Beautiful mantle
|
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6b Hard | ★ Neznani junak — 2 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Tricky top
|
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6c+ Easy | ★★ Bubicin put | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice crux
|
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Mon 8th Aug 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Akvamont | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Petarda | 19 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lep smer izuzetno dugačak. Upeklo sunce haos oko 14h. Negde na sredini detalj, prešao ga uz pomoć gurtne.
|
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Stol, Bor | |||||||
Don King Kong - zavetrina | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Don King Kong — 4 attempts | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Diverse moves
|
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Petnička pećina | |||||||
Donja dvorana | |||||||
7a | ★★ Klopka — 3 attempts | 14m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice holds on overhang. Take good use of rests...
|
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Stol, Bor | |||||||
Don King Kong - zavetrina | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Iza ćoška | 11m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice crux
|
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Wed 20th Jul 2022 - V3 | |||||||
Blokada | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Nije bitno | 16m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Detalj je bas zanimljiv.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Marjan Spiritus Agens - with Bojan Š | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Zanimljiv smer, stena zamalterisana pa ne deluje bas sigurno.
|
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Mon 18th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Veliki Majdan | |||||||
6b | ★★ Ekstazi - with Velibor Vasiljevic | 11m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of the easier 6b's.
|
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Veliki Majdan | |||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Badnjak | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Agony to clean the draws. I suggest a second climber to clean the route.
|
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Mali Majdan | |||||||
6a | ★★ Vrelina | 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Zabavan smer.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Ljuska ne | 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Smer je zabavan, ali kod prvog detalja pad malo zeznut. Upala mi noga u procep.
|
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Akvamont | |||||||
5b | ★★★ Karma | 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Odličan smer za zagrevanje, pravo je uživanje penjati ga. Kopčanja su postavljena odlično.
|
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Grdoba | |||||||
Blok u šumi | |||||||
6a | Stres II | 10m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
End of route is crumbly. Anchor is a mess.
|
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Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Niševac, Svrljig | |||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | |||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Džaba nervoza | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It's dirty and that made it harder; I reached only til the 6 bolt where I abandoned it for the next time
|
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6c | ★★★ Lavina suza | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I made a mistake near the top, fell off and lost my on sight attempt , but the route is gorgeous!
|
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Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Jelašnička klisura | |||||||
H2O | |||||||
7b 7a | ★★ Pera Detlić - with Amaury | 17m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
From the 2nd to the 5th bolt the sequence is a brutal boulder problem, I would say it's harder than 7a, I left some skin there. After the 5th bolt it becomes way softer with many good pockets til the top.
|
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Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Akvamont | |||||||
6b | ★★ Receptor | 8 | |||||
Nice slab, top is a bit far to clip if no quickdraw placed.
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Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Mali Majdan | |||||||
7a | ★★ Harpun | 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky top
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Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Rajac | |||||||
Akvamont | |||||||
6c | ★★ Ubiće nas promaja | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
During the summer its to hot to climb before 3pm.
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