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Routes

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Grade Route
1
6b *** Morning Shadow Sport 33m 2, 6
2
6a * Tiger Cliff Sport 32m 2, 6
3
7a Artificial and Intelligent Mixed 35m 2, 10
4
5b YDS:5.9 Dragon Shit Trad Project 20m

Has a chain anchor at the top.

This route has a lot of loose rock! Lead climber must be careful not to pull loose rocks down onto the belayer.

When placing gear in the crack be aware that in places the rock had softened due to water ingress.

6
6b+ Tong Lou / East Tower Sport 25m, 12
7
Rhinoplasty Trad Project 26m

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. This slab makes up the crux of the project route. (Alternatively, if this proves too hard, you can shimmy up the tree). From the top of the slab the route heads left, up 'blocky' steps which follow the dihedral. On topping out the dihedral continue up more slab with plentiful holds to the East Tower anchor.

This route is still a project.

Natural protection placements on this route are sparse, making this an extremely bold route if led as a trad route. Hairline cracks and fissures are sometimes the only option for Natural Pro. Ballnuts, micro-nuts, or very small cams may be handy for those brazen enough for a trad lead.

Due to the absence of good nat pro options, this route may lend itself nicely to being bolted for a sport route.

Set by yorkshire_lad, 2015

8
6a ** Botox Trad 26m

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. The slab is hard, and can be circumvented by climbing the tree, the 6a grade includes use of the tree.

From the top of the slab the route heads RIGHT up the CRACK!

Set by Hamish & Climb that turkey, 2015

FFA: Hamish, 2015

FA: Hamish, 2015

9
Desperate Measures Trad Project 10m

Climb can be found around 50m to the right of dragon shit through the trees. Route is full of loose rock and dead wood. Starts running up tree roots using 2-3 girth-hitched slings as protection to the tree. It then traverses left across a ledge by a smaller tree where a trad anchor can be built. Area is uncleaned and unbolted so take care. Above this is project.

10

Bolt ladder to prepare Yosemite. Second pitch is A1/A2 to practice hook and micro cam

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