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Description

Extending westwards from the start of MOONLIGHT, the base of the wall becomes a large, grassy ledge with a 20m cliff below. This is the MOON area, a very craggy section of the wall with some ultimate classic moderate routes. This area seems tailor made for friendly big-walling, with ledges at convenient intervals, and usually 2 or 3 options off each ledge.

Approach

Down the Ramp and past Moonlight area.

Routes

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Grade Route

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake.

  1. 45m 16 Climb to bottom of flared chimney crack. Step across right to a little foot ledge and pull up. Traverse 1.5m right then ascend face, moving diagonally left as high as possible. Traverse about 8m left to below hanging block. Ascend crack system 2m left of hanging block. Climb face in steps diagonally right to good ledge.

  2. 35m 17 Climb up to narrow roof. Traverse 8m to the right. Continue hand traversing 6m to end of traverse line. Pull overhang and climb face to good ledge.

  3. 45m 16 Climb slightly diagonally right for about 15m. Traverse left for about 5m via pull-up on block. Follow recess line diagonally left to Grassy Ledge. Walk to pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to base of crack forming right side of pillar.

  4. 30m 15 Climb crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to a good handrail. Hand traverse left for about 15m to a good ledge. The rap chains are hidden by a grass tuft near the stance.

  5. 35m 20 (17A1) Climb up via small ledge to bottom of recess (the only one cutting through this face). Use aid (one knife) to get to crack. Follow crack for 5m using another aid point to reach small ledge above. Climb up for 6m and then diagonally left to block (mostly aid climbing with a few free moves). Climb diagonally out right to sloping block. Continue straight up to narrow ledge (originally 3 pitches). This ledge leads leftwards to the Jungle Ledge bivy site.

  6. 35m 14 From end of pitch 5 continue up shallow groove for about 10m and then traverse diagonally right to big block.

  7. 15m 20 (17A1) Twin Cracks Pitch: Ascend crack left of block with some aid moves, to the left side of the pillar. Continue to top of pillar.

  8. 35m 19 (17A1) Climb off-width crack above the ledge (use one sling for aid just below the ledge). Follow chimney-type recess to ledge and stance on right.

  9. 20m 12 Climb diagonally right into gully above. Scramble 10m through trees to mouth of deep cave.

  10. 40m 14 Climb slabs on left to broken ground.

  11. 30m 11 Fight 10m to chossy gully and climb same to top.

FFA: J. Linke, H Zangerl, R Druschke & E Druschke, 1981

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

  1. 45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.

  2. 38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m (through small roof). Straight up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a good ledge.

  3. 38m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge. (blocks). Walk to the right hand end of the Grassy Ledge. Down climb to a stance on the far right of the ledge, at the base of chossy-looking, east-facing corner.

  4. 35m 18 (17A0) Climb corner, stepping right at the top. Pull through roof on the left. Move right a few metres to a break. Follow this for 25m to a stance near some blocks (17A0 if you rest on a nut below the roof).

  5. 50m 15 2m right is a left facing corner capped by a half metre roof. Climb this and continue up the next right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left until the ledge narrows, then blast straight up the wall above finishing up a left leaning corner crack to a large ledge. Climb up the wall to a small pillar. Move delicately right and then head for the yellowwood tree at the big platform up and right.

  6. 15m 15 Head for the next yellowwood tree up and left. Follow the recess above to large ledges. The Bivi Cave lies to the right.

  7. 45m 17 Move through the yellowwood and step off it on to the thin face. Climb the face diagonally left to the arête, follow this to the corner. Up this to step left at the big roof. Wind through on monster jugs to huge ledge.

  8. 38m 18 From the upper ledge attack the jug forest above. Move right on to thinner stuff a little higher and climb to ledge.

  9. 25m 16 Start from right hand side of large boulder. Climb the break, moving out left and exit into jungle.

  10. 25m 15 LAST MOON takes the obvious major chimney behind the jungle. Climb the jug infested face just right of the chimney. Notes:

  11. This RD is a stand alone version of the easiest pleasant route up the north wall. It climbs parts of HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3), MOONRAKER (pitch 4 and some of pitch 5), LAST MOON (pitches 6 and 7) and ROAD WARRIOR (pitches 8 and 9).

FFA: Mike Cartwright. Grant Cockburn, 1990

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