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Access issues inherited from Bronkhorstspruit

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

R20 for adults R10 for school going children above 12 years old R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following: Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover) Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though) NO FIRES are allowed Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below) NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper Respect other visitors Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs No guns allowed In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952 Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SA 12 Tickled Pink Sport

Start around the corner to RANGER’s DELIGHT. Move left onto this route after the second bolt.

2
SA 14 * Ranger's Delight Unknown

Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2002

3
SA 18 * Fragile Ego Unknown

Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost, 2003

4
SA 21 ** Straight and Narrow Unknown

To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16. This route is bolted with U-Bolts.

FA: D. Margetts and N. Margetts, 2003

5
SA 15 * No More Freeloaders Unknown

Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

6
SA 17 Pumkin Time Sport

Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.

7
SA 21 Modern Warfare Sport

Very short and bouldery. Try stay strate in line with the bolts. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.

8
SA 12 * Fully Sport

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost, 2003

9
SA 11 * Kief Sport

Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost., 2003

10
SA 12 Pumba's Delight Sport

Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)

11
SA 14 Maggies Nose Sport

Upgraded from 7 (be fair to the new guys) - this route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag

12

Formerly known as as 'Derek's Dilemma' - Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

13
SA 15 * Austin's Mojo Sport

Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

14
SA 17 * Mini Me Sport

Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

15
SA 18 Rastus Sport

One move wonder through the roof.

FA: D. Margetts and D. Taylor., 2003

16
SA 15 ** Man's Best Friend Trad
17
SA 15 ** The Fallen Boot Sport

Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

18
SA 16 * Gunning for Crows Sport

Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop. Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face. Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

19
SA 20 *** George's Bush Sport 23m, 9

Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.

20
SA 18 Venus Fly Trap Sport 9

New route, FA??BB??

21
SA 17 * Kate's Moss Sport 12m, 6

Climb a short corner system. There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t!

FA: Günther Bargon, 2004

22
SA 22 * Joint Venture Sport 11

Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.

23
SA 24 *** Yellow Submarine Sport 20m

Powerful start! Climb the overhanging groove with crux getting into the corner above. Easy rock leads to roof crack with another hard move. Climb easily to top.

FA: Andrw Porter

24
SA 26 *** After Burn Sport

Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt.

FA: R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph., 2004

25

Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on

FA: S. Bretherick.

26
SA 25 *** Rat Kid Sport

Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.

FA: Gary Lowther.

27
SA 28 ** Black Pearl Sport

Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer.

FA: David Wade, 2012

28

Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish.

FA: Gunther Bargon.

29
SA 21 * Mostly Harmless Sport 25m

Climb the (often wet) corner system leading up to the roof. The crux is to break through this to the chains.

FA: Roland Magg

30
SA 21 *** Elton's John Sport 20m, 13

Starts just right of MOSTLY HARMLESS. Long and sustained.

FA: Roland Maggs

31
SA 14 ** Blue Boots Sport 15m

Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above.

FA: B. Frost, 2007

32
SA 15 * Wild Apricot Sport

Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

33
SA 21 ** Naked Orange Sport

A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

34
SA 18 * Green Machine Sport

Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost, 2003

35
SA 25 Footloose Sport 5

For the boulderers! Short and powerfull!

FA: Mark Seuring, 2005

36
SA 25 * The Shining Sport 6

Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

37
SA 22 *** Bruce Sport 27m

Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.

38
SA 22 ** Rule Number One Sport

Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.

39
SA 23 * Wasabi Sport 12

Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.

40
SA 22 *** Of Mice and Men (2 pitch) Sport 30m, 12

Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches.

FA: Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches., 2004

41
SA 23 * New Year's Revolution Sport 9

Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.

42
SA 24 *** Fire Fly Sport

Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête.

FA: R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph, 2004

43

Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy!

FA: Mark Seuring., 2005

44
SA 27 *** Black Out Sport

Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained

FA: G. Lowther, 2004

45
SA 21 *** Blue Suede Shoes Sport

Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above

FA: G. Frost, A. Lloyd and C. Havenga, 2004

46

A new classic. Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.

FA: David Wade, 2012

47
SA 23 ** Paranoia Sport 9

Upgraded from 22.

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

48
SA 22 *** Devil's Concubine Sport 13

Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple.

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

49
SA 21 ** Devil's Disciple Sport

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

50
SA 22 *** Hello "Clarice" Sport 11

Long and sustained.

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

51
SA 21 ** Stone Dogs Sport 11

Intense start, eases up after that

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

52
SA 22 ** The Dark Half Sport 6

Short, but sure to get you pumped! Climbs an overhanging crack/corner. Bring your trad instincts for this one.

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

53
SA 24 ** Insomnia Sport 7

Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

54
SA 20 ** Lamb to the Slaughter Sport 11

Layback, stem and crank through the steep start. Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top. You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting.

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

55
SA 23 ** Hannibal Lector Sport 10

Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

56

Cool route. Pull through the initial roof to reach thin moves up the face (crux). Above the ledge, continue more easily up the face and through the overhangs above.

FA: S. Mallory, 2004

57
SA 20 *** If Women Were Gods Sport 14

A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

58
SA 24 ** Urban Raptors Sport 13

FA: G. Frost and C. Havenga, 2004

59
SA 20 ** Grim Reaper Sport 8

Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below.

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

60
SA 16 ** Rock Flower Sport 10

Grade adjusted from 17

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

61
SA 16 * Squeaker Sport

Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

62
SA 20 *** P.M.S. Sport

Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

63
SA 26 * Devil's Advocate Sport

Very powerfull and bouldery crux.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2009

64

Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.

65

For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

66
SA 21 Angry Dragon Sport

FA: Hector Pringle and Alan Grant

67
SA 24 * The Bat Sport 11

Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade

FA: David Wade, 2012

68
SA 20 Fruital Brute Sport

Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder