A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bronkhorstspruit 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 28.724340, -25.881214

Access Issues:

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

R20 for adults R10 for school going children above 12 years old R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following: Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover) Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though) NO FIRES are allowed Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below) NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper Respect other visitors Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs No guns allowed In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952 Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

Approach:

From JHB: Either take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use. Or take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

1.1. Bronkies Crag 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 28.723284, -25.881436

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tickled Pink

Start around the corner to RANGER’s DELIGHT. Move left onto this route after the second bolt.

12Sport
2 Ranger's Delight

Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2002

14Sport
3 * Fragile Ego

Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost, 2003

18Sport
4 ** Straight and Narrow

To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16. This route is bolted with U-Bolts.

FA: D. Margetts and N. Margetts, 2003

21Sport
5 * No More Freeloaders

Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

15Sport
6 Pumkin Time

Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.

17Sport
7 Modern Warfare

Very short and bouldery. Try stay strate in line with the bolts. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.

21Sport
8 * Fully

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost, 2003

12Sport
9 * Kief

Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost., 2003

11Sport
10 Pumba's Delight

Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)

12Sport
11 Maggies Nose

Upgraded from 7 (be fair to the new guys) - this route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag

14Sport
12 ** When I was young I had this dilemma / Derek's Dilemma

Formerly known as as 'Derek's Dilemma' - Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

20Sport
13 * Austin's Mojo

Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

15Sport
14 * Mini Me

Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

17Sport
15 Rastus

One move wonder through the roof.

FA: D. Margetts and D. Taylor., 2003

18Sport
16 ** Man's Best Friend 15Trad
17 * The Fallen Boot

Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

15Sport
18 * Gunning for Crows

Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop. Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face. Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

16Sport
19 *** George's Bush

Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.

20Sport 23m, 9
20 Venus Fly Trap

New route, FA??BB??

18Sport 9
21 * Kate's Moss

Climb a short corner system. There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t!

FA: Günther Bargon, 2004

17Sport 12m, 6
22 * Joint Venture

Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.

22Sport 11
23 *** Yellow Submarine

Powerful start! Climb the overhanging groove with crux getting into the corner above. Easy rock leads to roof crack with another hard move. Climb easily to top.

FA: Andrw Porter

24Sport 20m
24 *** After Burn

Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt.

FA: R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph., 2004

26Sport
25 *** Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose

Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on

FA: S. Bretherick.

25Sport
26 *** Rat Kid

Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.

FA: Gary Lowther.

25Sport
27 ** Black Pearl

Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer.

FA: David Wade, 2012

28Sport
28 *** Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy) / Hairy McClary from Donaldsons Dairy

Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish.

FA: Gunther Bargon.

20Sport 18m
29 * Mostly Harmless

Climb the (often wet) corner system leading up to the roof. The crux is to break through this to the chains.

FA: Roland Magg

21Sport 25m
30 *** Elton's John

Starts just right of MOSTLY HARMLESS. Long and sustained.

FA: Roland Maggs

21Sport 20m, 13
31 ** Blue Boots

Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above.

FA: B. Frost, 2007

14Sport 15m
32 * Wild Apricot

Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

15Sport
33 ** Naked Orange

A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts., 2003

21Sport
34 * Green Machine

Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.

FA: D. Margetts and G. Frost, 2003

18Sport
35 Footloose

For the boulderers! Short and powerfull!

FA: Mark Seuring, 2005

25Sport 5
36 * The Shining

Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

25Sport 6
37 *** Bruce

Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.

22Sport 27m
38 ** Rule Number One

Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.

22Sport
39 * Wasabi

Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.

23Sport 12
40 *** Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)

Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches.

FA: Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches., 2004

22Sport 30m, 12
41 * New Year's Revolution

Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.

23Sport 9
42 *** Fire Fly

Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête.

FA: R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph, 2004

24Sport
43 ** Keep Walking Johnny

Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy!

FA: Mark Seuring., 2005

27Sport
44 *** Black Out

Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained

FA: G. Lowther, 2004

27Sport
45 *** Blue Suede Shoes

Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above

FA: G. Frost, A. Lloyd and C. Havenga, 2004

21Sport
46 ** The Silence Of The Lambs

A new classic. Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.

FA: David Wade, 2012

25Sport
47 ** Paranoia

Upgraded from 22.

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

23Sport 9
48 *** Devil's Concubine

Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple.

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

22Sport 13
49 ** Devil's Disciple

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

21Sport
50 *** Hello "Clarice"

Long and sustained.

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

22Sport 11
51 ** Stone Dogs

Intense start, eases up after that

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

21Sport 11
52 ** The Dark Half

Short, but sure to get you pumped! Climbs an overhanging crack/corner. Bring your trad instincts for this one.

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

22Sport 6
53 ** Insomnia

Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

24Sport 7
54 ** Lamb to the Slaughter

Layback, stem and crank through the steep start. Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top. You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting.

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

20Sport 11
55 ** Hannibal Lector

Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

23Sport 10
56 ** Memoirs of a Belay Bunny

Cool route. Pull through the initial roof to reach thin moves up the face (crux). Above the ledge, continue more easily up the face and through the overhangs above.

FA: S. Mallory, 2004

22Sport
57 *** If Women Were Gods

A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

20Sport 14
58 ** Urban Raptors

FA: G. Frost and C. Havenga, 2004

24Sport 13
59 ** Grim Reaper

Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below.

FA: Ken Trash, 2007

20Sport 8
60 * Rock Flower

Grade adjusted from 17

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

16Sport 10
61 * Squeaker

Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

16Sport
62 *** P.M.S.

Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

20Sport
63 * Devil's Advocate

Very powerfull and bouldery crux.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2009

26Sport
64 Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)

Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.

Sport Project
65 * Ex Girlfriend's Crack

For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!

FA: G. Frost and D. Margetts, 2003

19Sport
66 Angry Dragon

FA: Hector Pringle and Alan Grant

21Sport
67 * The Bat

Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade

FA: David Wade, 2012

24Sport 11
68 Fruital Brute

Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder

20Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
11 * Kief Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
12 * Fully Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Pumba's Delight Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Tickled Pink Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
14 ** Blue Boots Sport 15m 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Maggies Nose Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Ranger's Delight Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
15 * Austin's Mojo Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Man's Best Friend Trad 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* No More Freeloaders Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* The Fallen Boot Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Wild Apricot Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
16 * Gunning for Crows Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Rock Flower Sport 10 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Squeaker Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
17 * Kate's Moss Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Mini Me Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Pumkin Time Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
18 * Fragile Ego Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Green Machine Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Rastus Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Venus Fly Trap Sport 9 1.1. Bronkies Crag
19 * Ex Girlfriend's Crack Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
20 Fruital Brute Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** George's Bush Sport 23m, 9 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Grim Reaper Sport 8 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy) Sport 18m 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** If Women Were Gods Sport 14 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Lamb to the Slaughter Sport 11 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** P.M.S. Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** When I was young I had this dilemma Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
21 Angry Dragon Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Blue Suede Shoes Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Devil's Disciple Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Elton's John Sport 20m, 13 1.1. Bronkies Crag
Modern Warfare Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Mostly Harmless Sport 25m 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Naked Orange Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Stone Dogs Sport 11 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Straight and Narrow Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
22 *** Bruce Sport 27m 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Devil's Concubine Sport 13 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Hello "Clarice" Sport 11 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Joint Venture Sport 11 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Memoirs of a Belay Bunny Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Of Mice and Men (2 pitch) Sport 30m, 12 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Rule Number One Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** The Dark Half Sport 6 1.1. Bronkies Crag
23 ** Hannibal Lector Sport 10 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* New Year's Revolution Sport 9 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Paranoia Sport 9 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Wasabi Sport 12 1.1. Bronkies Crag
24 *** Fire Fly Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Insomnia Sport 7 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* The Bat Sport 11 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Urban Raptors Sport 13 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Yellow Submarine Sport 20m 1.1. Bronkies Crag
25 Footloose Sport 5 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
*** Rat Kid Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* The Shining Sport 6 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** The Silence Of The Lambs Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
26 *** After Burn Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
* Devil's Advocate Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
27 *** Black Out Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
** Keep Walking Johnny Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
28 ** Black Pearl Sport 1.1. Bronkies Crag
? Devil's Advocate Direct(open project) Sport Project 1.1. Bronkies Crag