Melville Koppies Mostly sport climbing

16 routes in crag

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Summary

Melville Koppies is a Nature Reserve and a Johannesburg City Heritage Site. +-10min from the city centre

Description

Hard Sandstone up to 14m.

Access issues

Cars can be parked on the side of the road near the pedestrian entrance to the Melville Koppies West at the T-Junction of Beyers Naude and Judith Rd.

Approach

From the pedestrian entrance at the T-Junction of Beyers Naude and Judith Rd, follow a path left about 40m to the foot of the crag. The crag is not visible from the road as it is behind a number of trees.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
SA 21 ** Rock Docter Sport 8

On the far left hand side of the main cliff, starting from the ground follow the evident crack to the top. Bottom bolt keeps rope out of climbers way. First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit. Nov 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit, 2002

Set by Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit, 2002

2
SA 17 Elfstone Sport 8

Start 2M to the left of ROCK DOCTER and climb straight up, keeping in line with the bolts. Dont move too far right.

FA: Derek Pienaar, 2002

Set by Derek Pienaar, 2002

3
SA 16 ** Gremlins Bannister Sport 9

Start 1m to the left of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS, climbing up jugs into a corner under an overhang. Pull through overhanging block and up the ridge to the top.

FA: Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar, 2002

Set by Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar, 2002

4
SA 14 ** Chocolate Eclairs Sport 9

The climb follows the obvious chimney/corner to the left of the overhanging buttress.

FA: Derek Pienaar, 2002

Set by Derek Pienaar, 2002

5
SA 22 *** Whiplash Sport 9

Starting from the ground, climb the left ledge of the butress just to the right of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS. Don't use the wall or outcrop behind you. Variation: Use outcrop - 20

FA: Derek Pienaar & Neil Margetts, 2002

Set by Derek Pienaar & Neil Margetts, 2002

6
SA 25 ** Zionist Energy Sport 8

Starting about 1,5m to the right of WHIPLASH. A smooth face with a thin seam leading to an overhang. Follow seam through the small break to a ledge (8m). Continue directly up from the ledge. The climb is graded as not using the good grips from the climbs on either side.

FA: Andries Smit, Derek Pienaar & Neil Margetts, 2002

Set by Andries Smit, Derek Pienaar & Neil Margetts, 2002

7
SA 23 *** Slush Arms Sport 9

Starting 4m to the right of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS, climb up on good holds to the rail just under the overhangs (4m). Pull through overhang, moving up rightwards following the thin knobby convoluted crack.

FA: Derek Pienaar, Andries Smit & Neil Margetts, 2002

Set by Derek Pienaar, Andries Smit & Neil Margetts, 2002

8
SA 24 ** The Hakkinen Hegemony Sport 9

Three meters to the left of ZEPPELIS is an overhang 5m up with obvious under clings of its base. The overhang has 2 square corners facing left at the lip. Climb directly up and through the left hand corner. A harder version is not to use the jug of CHALKIES.

Set by Derek Pienaar, 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar, 2002

9
SA 22 ** Chalkies Direct Sport 8

Start as for the route to the left; climbing up diagonally right to the corner on the right (mentioned in CHALKIES ROUTE) and follow CHALKIES ROUTE to the top.

Set by Derek Pienaar, 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar, 2002

10
SA 21 *** Chalkies Route Sport 8

Start as for ZEPPELIS but rail left above the bulge 1,5m and balance up into a corner. Move left on a higher crack for a further 1m to reach corner/crack. Continue up the corner to the top.

Set by Neil Margetts

FA: Neil Margetts, Bjorn Bjornsvik & Derek Pienaar, 2002

11
SA 20 Necromancer's Nose Sport 8

Start of as, and use the first two clips from CHALKIES ROUTE then move slightly right to the overhang, and climb over the nose. Follow CHALKIES to the top. (Consensus grading needed)

Set by Derek Pienaar, 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar, 2002

12
SA 22 ** Mecer's Magic Sport 7

Start as for ZEPPELIS but traverse left for 1m only. From here climb straight up the crack system and overhanging bulges.

Set by Derek Pienaar, Neil Margetts & Bjorn Bjornsvik., 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar, Neil Margetts & Bjorn Bjornsvik., 2002

13
SA 19 ** Zeppelis Sport 7

To the right of the main buttress is a deep undercut bulge near the ground. The climb starts in the obvious corner right on the middle of the buttress above the undercut. Follow the corner without exiting too far right.

Set by Neil Margetts & Derek Pienaar, 2002

FA: Neil Margetts & Derek Pienaar, 2002

14
SA 20 ** Ladielle Sport 7

Clip the first two bolts from ZEPPELIS. From hereon move up and keep left. Climb up the white bulged nose and continue to the topout.

Set by Derek Pienaar, 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar, 2002

15
SA 21 ** Cranker Sport 6

Crank off the ground 3m to the right of ZEPPELIS and proceed straight up keeping off the ridge.

Set by Derek Pienaar, Andries Smit & Neil Margetts, 2002

FA: Derek Pienaar, Andries Smit & Neil Margetts, 2002

16
SA 21 Tux's Corner Trad

A short but fun bouldery climb to the right of CRANKER. Standing right underneath the jutted corner, hang and dyno up to the groove further up on the nose. Be careful if continuing to the top since there are no bolts.

Open trips

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