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Description

The lower section comprises of very short climbs with very tight bolting. Ideal place for Beginners, but with some challenging sections. Generally a very popular crag.

Approach

From the Parking area it is a short 5-10min walk up the hillside on the left path to the middle of the lower wall. Path is established, but beware of small loose stones under foot.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

A girdle traverse of the left-hand portion of the lower level of Struben's. Start on the left at the second bolt on the very first route, and continue at approximately the same height to the very last route on the right. It goes at about 18 in both directions (climbed both ways)

FA: Dylan Morgan

2
9 * Meadow Lane Sport 5

Follow the left-most line of bolts up the grooves and ledges to where you can reach the lower-offs. A slightly easier variation is found if you deviate 1-2m left after the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

3
16 ** Eastern Bypass Sport 5

Start up MEADOW LANE to the base of a thin corner groove, straight up the wall to the right. Climb the corner to gain the lower-offs on the left.

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

4
17 *** Roadside Rhapsody Sport 5

Go up the stepped groove in the slab 5m left of the nose, until the wall steepens at the third bolt. Less strenuous thyan the routes on the left.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

5
21 * Panic Alley Sport 5

Start up the short smooth face to the faint crack line 1.5m left of the nose. Can be climbed straight through the bolt line at the crux. If you choose to layback, there may be a temptation to use easier holds far out right. Climb the headwall slab to lower-offs..

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

6
19 * Road Warrior Sport 5

The nose route. Experience a steep start past the ex-tree. Don’t hang around too long or gravity will catch up. Go straight up the crack to lower-offs on the right. ‘Legal’ holds can be used just to the right, but if you ignore all of these, the grade is about 21.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

7

Probably led by various of the Margetts clan in the 80’s. Start 2m right of the root on the nose, following the double crack system to the base of the smaller groove at the top. Climb up this to lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

8
17 * Highway Man Sport 4

Start about 3m right of the nose. Climb steeply up a spidery crack system to easier ground finishing in the larger groove/recess.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

9
18 * Sidewalk Vendetta Sport 5

Climb the shallow recess about 6-7m right of the nose. If it feels a bit hard, try a little technique. Continue up the crack above to lower-offs on a small buttress.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

10
18 * A Delicate One Sport 4

Go up the orange face, without making use of the major edge to the right.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

11
16 * Thuggery Sport 4

Use the break to the right of the orange face to gain the summit, using the same lower-offs as A DELICATE ONE.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

12
15 ** Catwalk Sport 4

Go up the face to the right of the break used by THUGGERY. Pull into the base of the short corner, and climb to the lower-offs on the left, under the tree.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

13
14 ** Walking the Dog Sport 4

Go right after the second bolt on CATWALK to lower-offs on the right.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

14
10 ** Western Bypass Sport 3

Climb the face just to the left of an obvious recess. Use the same lower-offs as WALKING THE DOG.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

15

Up the obvious recess/corner.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

16

The easiest sport route in the country/Africa/Southern hemisphere? Almost anyone should be able to lead it even with no previous climbing experience. Climb the face 8m right of the short gully. First ascent: Soloed in the 80’s.

Set by Clive Curzon

17

If the root looks like becoming a bush again, apply a chainsaw. Climb the face 10m right of the gully past 2 bolts. Same lower-offs as for VISIONS OF URBAN GLOOM.

Set by Clive Curzon

18

Start at the large recess/break. After the second bolt climb out right to gain the smooth slab which is followed to lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

19
8 ** Redistribution Sport 3

Starting at the base of the recess, follow the line of weakness diagonally across under INFORMAL SETTLEMENT’s slab to the crack system to its right. Climb this and use IS’s lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

20

Start 1m right of the large recess and climb REDISTRIBUTION’s crack all the way from the ground using the same bolts.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

21
15 ** Funnel of Funds Sport 4

Start at the base of a jam crack 4m right of recess. Climb steeply past the funnel feature, tending slightly right towards the top.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

22
12 ** Cash on Tap Sport 4

Starting at an ex-tree, climb up the crack line on great holds then move left past the bulge (ignoring the bolt on the right) to join FUNNEL OF FUNDS at the top.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

23
19 * Cosmic Politician Sport 4

Takes the smooth bulging orange face with two key horizontal cracks above this bulge. Slightly reach dependant, but a good line all the same.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

24

Climb the crack and V-shaped groove right of COSMIC POLITICIAN. Finish at lower-offs either left or right.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

25
18 ** District Six Sport 4

Climb up to the large peapod groove to the bulge. The crux is using a layback move to the right, in the middle of the bolt line. The temptation to stray is great: nice move if you don’t.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

26

Teeter up the smooth slab just left of the arete. It gets more positive – eventually. Finish leftwards to the lower-offs on DISTRICT SIX.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

27
16 ** Winds of Change Sport 3

Climb the deep crack to the right of the smooth slab to the left of a long, elevated ledge.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

28
16 * Urban Unrest Sport 3

The climb starts next to a bushy gully on the left, some 3m left of a whitish nose. There is a crack line through the bulge. Climb the small bulge on large jugs.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

29
18 * Gang Warfare Sport 3

Climb the crack on the right of the bulge and 1.5m right of the nose. Move up, then right and up on layback holds.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

30
19 ** City Slicker Sport 3

The route up the smooth, whitish nose. Follow the thin crack line up the nose, without straying too far either way. A tad contrived. Go a little left after the third bolt to the GANG WARFARE lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

31
14 ** Home Boy Sport 4

Climbs the face to the right of the nose. There are some great incuts on this one. Go slightly right to lower-offs overlooking the large recess.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

32
13 ** Heavy Traffic Sport 4

Start up the featured arête to the right of a large recess about 4m right of the CITY SLICKER nose. Climb the juggy rock, going left at the top to the lower-offs. Crux is just after the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

33
11 ** Police Brutality Sport 4

Start at a small jagged block. Climb the face, trending somewhat right at the top to lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

34
14 ** No Go Area Sport 3

Start below the boltline through a shallow scoop about 1.5m left of the prominent red corner. Climb to lower-offs above.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

35
13 *** Urban Legend Sport 4

Climbs a striking red corner all the way to the top.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

36
12 * Dark Streets Sport 4

Between the corner and a dark recess is a vague break through a face with glue-on blocks – right above the tree / roots. Most remaining holds feel solid, but exercise some care. Go left at the top on bug jugs (rather steep).

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

37
20 ** Judgement Day Sport 4

Climb the smooth, light-coloured face to the right of the dark crack / recess. Don’t reach past the edge of the face.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

38
14 ** Skywalker Sport 4

Start up the excellent left-facing corner just right of the whitish face. The corner flattens out higher up.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

39
19 ** Bad Karma Sport 4

About 5m right of SKYWALKER is a recess with a deep crack on the left and a ledge on the right. Climb the corner on the right of the recess (using a jam near the top) to lower offs on the arête to the right. Can get a bit muddy and mind the loose rocks at the top.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

40
20 * Drugs and Death Sport 10m, 6

Start 2-3m right of the BAD KARMA recess. Climb the smooth orangey-red wall on good incuts. Tend left towards the arete. Not as easy as it looks, and much harder for midgets.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

41

Climb the smooth overhanging face to the right of DRUGS AND DEATH on thin holds. A bolt exists at the top which can be used to top-rope the route. Note: If you use the grips on the left, the grade drops to 23.

FFA: Neil Margetts, 2005

42
19 *** Keen Dude Sport 4

Start 4m right of the BAD KARMA recess. Climb past a tree root on a ledge 1.5m up. Climb the crack above to a notch in the roof. Give the scree above a definite miss. Also a little reach dependant.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

43
22 ** Kamakazi Sport 4

Start 1m left of THE RED ZONE. Climbs through some dynamic moves to the ledge at mid height. Pull through the overhang above on 2 underclings to the jugs above.

FFA: Neil Margetts, 2004

44
25 ** The Red Zone Sport 4

Climbs a crack line about 7m right of the BAD KARMA recess into a groove between 2 small buttresses. Start just right of the first bolt. Much harder if the holds left of the arête are not used or if you are vertically challenged. This route and those to the right had seen previous top rope action.

Set by Clive Curzon, 1995

45

Climbs the bulging buttress just left of STREETFIGHTER, using the first 3 bolts of STREETFIGHTER and one hanger bolt out to the left. Don’t use the crack to the right.

Set by Clive Curzon, 1995

46
22 * Streetfighter Sport 6

Climb up the well defined crack with hand-jam to cubby hole. Pull out left onto the smooth buttress at the roof. Watch the rope on sharp edges when lowering-off. Reachy. First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

47
23 * Manic Monday Sport 8m, 4

Start 1.5m right of the STREETFIGHTER crack. Stretch/balance up to a good jug. Pull past the right of the roof to 0.5m to the right, using good technique for maximum brownie points.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

48
24 Heavy Duty Sport 4

Start 3m right of STREETFIGHTER. Climb up and left to a well-wedged small flake. Pull the steep finish to clip off a good rail just left of the lower-offs. Without hooking the block to the left the grade goes up somewhat. Short persons may also find this harder.

FA: Clive Curzon, 1994

49
18 ** CORNER ROUTE Sport 10m, 3

Climb the crack in the corner. Crux is just before the second bolt

FA: Unknown/Self

50
18 Seriously Now Sport 1

Climb just right of the corner

FA: Dylan Morgan, 2001

51
14 Power Puff Girls Sport 3

Climbs up a series of small ledges a few meters right of SERIOUSLY NOW.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2004