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Description

Upper Section The upper section is found above and to the left (facing the crags from below) of the main crags. Head towards the main overhanging area where you will find climbs such as BLACK MAGIC (unfortunately this cave is occupied at present). From here, head left to get to the bolted climbs. The routes to the far left are actually pretty good.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Red Fred Sport 5

Set by Neil Margetts

2
11 Blue Glue Sport 5

Shares top anchors with RED FRED.

Set by Neil Margetts

3
18 ** Into Pink Sport 6

On the left hand side of the Upper band, slightly above the rest of the cliffs is a steep red broken buttress with a large thin flake 3m high in the centre, at its base. Climb the crack on the left hand side of the flake to its top, then step up left to above a small overhang. From there continue up slightly right via a small recess to the top.

Set by Neil Margetts

4
18 ** Think Pink Sport 6

Climb the crack on the right of the flake (see INTO PINK) continuing up to the corner above, then at its top climb another small corner, just to the right of the ridge, to the top.

Set by Neil Margetts

5
16 Silver Arrows Sport 7

Set by Neil Margetts

6
13 Green Light Sport 6

Set by Neil Margetts

7
14 * Pink Hot Peppers Sport 6

Straddle up short dark brown square recess to the right of THINK PINK, and just to the left of a cave with blocks in it. Step left at the large block which is at the top of the recess. Has a tricky start.

8
20 ** Purple Frenzy Sport 6

Walk down 10m from THINK PINK to a lower buttress with a smooth undercut bulge at its base. Balance up bulge along a ridge 1m to the right of white streak, to a flared crack underneath an overhang. Pull over overhang and continue up easier ground to the top, keeping to the ridge.

Set by Neil Margetts

9
17 ** Goat Crack Sport 6

To the right of PURPLE FRENZY is an obvious crack leading to an open hook above with blocks in it. Climb initial section (crux) to cubbyhole, then continue up steep crack above on good grips to the top.

Set by Neil Margetts

10
15 Balderdash Sport 6

Set by Neil Margetts

11
9 * Bumble Bee Trad

About 4m to the right of GOAT CRACK is a small tree. Climb left of tree to ledge, then move up left via crack to a ledge 1m to the right of the cubby hole of GOAT CRACK. Then climb up cracks above to the top.

12
16 Saddlebags Sport 7

Set by Neil Margetts

13

About 7m to the right of BUMBLE BEE is a 4.5m high thin crack with peg scars in it (dark rock). Climb the crack to a small ledge and instead of moving up left to easy ground, reach right to another crack/corner, which is followed to the top. If the block on the right is used to straddle, the grade is reduced.

Set by Neil Margetts

14

About 2m to the right of LIFE IN THE FAST LANE is a slab leading to a chimney in between two obvious ridges. Start to the right, and step left into the chimney which is then climbed to the top.

15
12 *** Tea Bagging Sport 7

Two ridges are mentioned in LAUGHTER OF THE MORTALS. Climb up the right side of the right ridge on big jugs to the top.

Set by Neil Margetts

16
16 * Getting Air Sport 6

Move up the centre of wall which is to the right of TEA BAGGING to the top (avoiding good grips on TEA BAGGING and the crack on the right)

17
14 ** Get Tubed Sport 5

To the right of TEA BAGGING is an obvious, attractive scoop shaped overhanging face with two corners on either side. Climb the left hand corner to the top, moving left near the top.

Set by Neil Margetts

18
29 ** Tidal Wave Sport 7

Climb the scooped face up the middle.

Set by Neil Margetts

19

Climb the right hand side of the scoop mentioned in IS THERE ANYBODY IN THERE, to the top.

20
17 ** Barracuda Trad

About 3m to the right of the start of IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE is a bushy tree. Above the tree is a small corner with a few roots in it at the base. Climb this corner to an overhang, rail left, and move up corner on left until one can step right again, to above the previously mentioned overhang. Then continue past fig tree to top.

21

About 2,5m to the right of the tree mentioned in BARRACUDA is another similar tree. Step onto grey face here and climb up to the large ledge above. Above this is a short overhanging face with a break in it directly above the start. Climb this break which leads into a crack higher up, to the top.

22

Start as for MUSSEL CRACKER, but tend rightwards towards a tree. Then climb up through the tree onto another ledge. Continue along ledge until possible to easily climb to the top.

23

About 4m to the right of THUNDER THIGHS are a few large boulders. On the right of these is a tree next to the crag. Step into the corner below the prominent overhang 3m up. Climb up to the ledge above. Then continue up corner to the tree of THUNDER THIGHS. Continue directly to the top.

24

This is a superb girdle traverse, probably the best route on the crag. At the thin tree mentioned in THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT, climb up for 3m until you can traverse right along the obvious rail under the fig tree. Continue for 25m at the lip of the cave until you get to another fig tree. Climb up 4m to a ledge. 2. 10m 15 Walk right, to below the nose. Move up on the right hand side and swing around left to the obvious hand crack. Follow this to its end and then continue to top. Note: This route has to be led. The first pitch is sustained, and is as hard to follow as it is to lead.

25

Start about 3m to the right of the start of LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE below the fig tree. Climb up to the rail and up on small grips to a small recess to the left of a nose and to the right of a fig tree. Climb up this for 3m to easier ground which is followed to the top.

26
23 ** Black Magic Trad

Above the right hand side of the boulders mentioned in THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT is an obvious v-shaped break in the roof above. Pull up initial overhang using underclings to the rail, continue up to break, then climb through break (crux) to easier ground, continue up vague recess above to the top.

27
25 *** Magic Mushroom Sport

Move up diagonally left, starting half a metre to the left of the start of TIDAL WAVE, to the rail. Move up to a bolt. Continue up through the overhanging rock above, past the second bolt to the top. Do not use the grips that would normally be used for the routes on either side for handholds or footholds.

28
21 *** Voodoo Trad

About 3m to the right of BLACK MAGIC is a large obvious corner. Climb directly up to the corner after negotiating the initial overhang, climb the corner (crux) and continue straight up crack above without stepping right onto easier rock (a superb direct line).

29

Start as for TIDAL WAVE to the rail. Rail right to a corner, move right onto the nose and then up to grips above a thin crack. Then move up diagonally left to a ledge. Continue up to the top.

30

Pull up into the corner to the right of the start of TIDAL WAVE (reachy). Then execute a very contrived pull through the roof above, without touching the right wall of the corner. (Height is a definite advantage for both cruxes).

31

About 3m to the right of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is a hairline crack running through the initial bulge, widening to finger size higher up. Aid (A3) up initial section on blades and poor nuts to the rail, then continue up crack above (free climbing) with some difficult moves (19) near the top.

32
24 *** Mental Block Trad

About 5m to the right of the start of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is an obvious jug handhold about 3m up, at the lip of the cave. Move onto this dynamically and continue up to a rest on the rail (crux) . Continue up over second overhang (20) and up to top.

33
19 * Hot Canary Trad

About 5m to the right of the start of MENTAL BLOCK is a short root filled crack. Climb this to the rail, ascend wide crack above (crux) to a ledge. Then avoid bad rock above by traversing right for 5m to an attractive nose with an obvious hand crack on its left hand side. Climb this to the top, starting on its right hand side. (As in LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE)

34
23 *** Stargazer Trad

About 5m to the right of HOT CANARY is a short corner topped by a roof. To its right, above 2 large, flatish boulders are 2 smooth, overhanging bulges. Straddle up the corner to the roof, then rail right above the first bulge to a cramped position. Pull through second bulge strenuously until the grade eases, then continue up ridge above (excellent dynamic moves).

35
21 ** Smoke Alley Trad

At the right hand end of the big cave. About 4m to the right, and around the corner from the start of STARGAZER is a crack up an overhanging recess. Climb this (crux) and follow easy cracks to the top.

36
22 ** Jugular Vein Trad

About 1,5m to the right of SMOKE ALLEY is an obvious crack running up and through overhangs. JUGULAR VEIN climbs this crack.

37
18 ** Eyes of Fire Trad

Climb the crack to the right of JUGULAR VEIN to the top. Continue up easy ground above.

38

Start 10m up BLACK JACK GULLY in a short obvious corner with yellow and grey patches. This is just to the left of a dusty cave whose ceiling consists of large boulders. Climb the corner and continue past the tree above to the top.

39

The obvious decent route with tree at base.

40
19 ** Devious Trad

Climb face 1m right of EYES OF FIRE through overhang to top.

41
18 ** Envious Trad

Climb shallow recess 1m to the right and around the corner of DEVIOUS.

42

About 4m up BLACK JACK GULLY on the true left is an obvious finger crack up a grey and cream streaked wall. Climb the crack to a rail, then pull straight through the centre of the steep face above to reach the top.

43

Climb the crack system directly above the tree at the base of BLACK JACK GULLY. Climb up past some white streaks to an undercling rail. Then move left onto further cracks and ascend (passing a tree on the right) to the top.

44
20 * Thrasher Trad

To the right of INO THE BLUE is a large overhang about 2m up. Start as for HEART OF GOLD and step up left onto the lip of the overhang. Then follow the thin crack past the small tree to the undercling rail and second overhang. Pull through centre of second overhang at about 1.5m to the right of INTO THE BLUE. Continue straight to the top.

45

On the front of the Neil Young Buttress at the base of the crag are 3 large boulders under an overhang, the right hand one forming a 2m high pillar. Start up the pillar, then climb crack above. Continue straight up recess above (crux) and finish on ridge at top.

46

start 1m to the right of the pillar mentioned in HEART OF GOLD is a thin crack up a dark wall. Climb this past some small bushes into a wider crack, which is followed to the top.

47
14 ** Pokoharness Trad

About 1m to the right of LOST COMPANIONS is a thin crack with roots at the top. Climb this.

48

Climb the deep crack 1m to the right of POKOHARNESS.

49

To the right of CRYSTAL CANYONS is an overhanging bulge with a tree at its base (in the centre). Up the wall/bulge are 2 thin cracks on either side of the tree. Climb the left hand crack.

50

Climb the right hand crack of the 2 cracks mentioned in AURORA BOREALIS.

51

Around the corner to the right of JOHNNY ROTTEN is an attractive face. Start on the left, moving through initial overhang onto the face. Avoiding ledges on the left, step right onto a small ledge about 2m above the ground. Climb directly up the centre of the brown yellow face above to the top. Note: An easier variation can be climbed up the left arete.

52

One day whilst wandering aimlessly around the top of the crag too lazy to walk down. I decided to scramble down and inadvertently opened a route worth writing up. 10m to the right of HAY HAY MY MY is a broken face shaded closely by a large tree. Start by a clump of routes about the size of a woman’s foot embedded in the face. Climb straight up towards a sturdy Combretum tree.

53
14 ** Wow Trad

Around the corner to the right of YOUNG MAN’s ENTRANCE are two obvious brown corners. Climb the left hand corner to an overhang, then instead of going left to easier ground, make in interesting, cramped rail right to a position above GRAVITY DON’T DUST. Continue from here to top.

54

Climb delicately up the orange arete to the right of WOW to a pointed overhang. Pull through and continue to top.

55
13 ** Zealot Zone Trad

Climb the right hand corner mentioned in WOW, until you can step right onto a ledge. Climb further up face above. Continue up a series of cracks and ledges to top.

56
8 * Purple Moon Trad

Start 2m to the left of PURPLE SKY, and continue straight up the crack (with a tree in it) to the top, moving right at the tree.

57
12 *** Purple Sky Trad

Climb up attractive face 10m up and right of GRAVITY DON’T DUST, keeping strictly to the face all the way up (jug land).

58

Climb the ridge 3m to the right of PURPLE SKY, starting on the left of the arete on an easy angle slab and finishing on the right hand side of the ridge.

59

To the right of LAND OF SMILES is a deep crack running up a series of ledges. Climb the crack and step left at its top. Exit right.

60

Climb the ridge to the right of SONG OF SONGS on good but far apart jugs to the top.

61
12 ** Song of Joy Trad

Climb the orange recess with cracks in it on the right of BYE BYE BLUES. This recess has an overhang in it about three quarters of the way up.

62
13 ** Ore Trad

On the right hand side of the crag (i.e. 10m to the right and 15m up from SONG OF JOY) is a zig-zag wide crack running through a series of juggy bulges which is slightly undercut at its base. Climb up the crack to the top.

63
16 Mac One Sport 10m
64
16 Reptiel Sport 10m