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Description

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Access issues inherited from King's Kloof

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

Approach

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalyptus.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 THREE WISE MEN Sport 20m

The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

2
17 *** ANGEL OF MERCY Sport 11m

Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

3
13 NARROW IS THE GATE Sport 22m

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

4

Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains. All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s.

FA: David Tapp, 2011