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Description

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Access issues inherited from King's Kloof

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

Approach

From the parking area take the path upstream

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
AU 17 ?One Sport 6m, 6
2
AU 19 ?Two Sport 6m, 7
3
?Three Sport Project 9
4
AU 22 ?Four Sport 8
5
?Five Sport 8

Starts on rock mound, come off on lead and you will land in tree.

6
?Six Sport
7
AU 19 ?Seven Sport 11

Shares 6 draws and anchors with climb on right

8
?Eight Sport

Starts on rock mound up smooth overhang shares chains with climb on right

9
AU 22 ?Nine Sport 10

Straight up the main crack using side pulls.

10
AU 20 ?Ten Sport 10

Traverse left under roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left.

FA: The Hungarians, 2012

11
AU 25 ?Eleven Sport

Up the corner then break through the big roofs.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2012

12
AU 29 ?Twelve Sport 11

Set by Pierre Carter, 2011

FA: Dylan Vogt, 2011

13
AU 22 ?Thirteen Sport 7

Hard start into real easy climbing.

Set by David Tapp

14
AU 17 ?Fourteen Sport 6

Crosses over ?Fifteen

Set by David Tapp

15
?Fifteen Sport 9

Climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge. Best to clean on top rope since the route runs diagonally left.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2012

16
AU 17 Pharaoh's Face Sport 11

Fun face climb.

FA: Pierre Joubert, 2011

17
AU 18 *** ?Seventeen Sport 9

Pulls through little overhang onto face above. Technical and fun.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

18
?Eighteen Sport 9

Crux is at the start, great warm up climb.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

19
Abel's Arete Sport 8

Last route on the right when facing the crag. On angle, shares chains with 15 next door. Best to clean on top rope since the climb goes diagonally left.

FA: Pierre Joubert, 2011