Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Gauteng 319 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 28.125785, -26.106225

1.1. Bobbejaans Berg 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Bronkhorstspruit 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 28.724340, -25.881214

Access Issues:

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

R20 for adults R10 for school going children above 12 years old R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following: Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover) Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though) NO FIRES are allowed Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below) NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper Respect other visitors Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs No guns allowed In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952 Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

Approach:

From JHB: Either take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use. Or take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

1.2.1. Bronkies Crag 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 28.723284, -25.881436

1.3. Northcliff 56 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 27.968660, -26.145025

1.3.1. Biscuit Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.2. North-West 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.3. Northcliff Ridge 43 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.4. Northcliff East 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4. Strubens Valley 120 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 27.894149, -26.128497

Description:

Struben's Valley is a very popular beginner climbing destination in the West Rand of Gauteng in South Africa. Lots of Bolted routes, mainly short pitches.

Approach:

From area marked on Google Map you can park and then it is a short hike to the Lower Crag, following the left most established path.

History:

STRUBENSVALLEY This area is named after Fred and Harry Struben who were gold prospectors in the 1880’s, and mined in this area before gold was discovered on the reef.

This crag is one of the Witwatersrand’s finest assets as far as sport climbing is concerned.

1.4.1. Lower Section 51 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 27.892743, -26.129840

Description:

The lower section comprises of very short climbs with very tight bolting. Ideal place for Beginners, but with some challenging sections. Generally a very popular crag.

Approach:

From the Parking area it is a short 5-10min walk up the hillside on the left path to the middle of the lower wall. Path is established, but beware of small loose stones under foot.

1.4.2. Upper Section 64 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 27.892584, -26.130776

Description:

Upper Section The upper section is found above and to the left (facing the crags from below) of the main crags. Head towards the main overhanging area where you will find climbs such as BLACK MAGIC (unfortunately this cave is occupied at present). From here, head left to get to the bolted climbs. The routes to the far left are actually pretty good.

1.4.3. Far Right 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 27.891958, -26.129193

Description:

To the right of the main crags, from the car park, a separate crag is clearly visible.

1.5. The Keg 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 27.872544, -26.118328

1.6. The Wilds 0 routes in Area

1.7. Mondeor 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.7.1. The Reservoir 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.7.2. Dassie Krans 0 routes in Area

1.8. Melville Koppies 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 27.997836, -26.168554

Unique Features And Strengths:

Melville Koppies is a Nature Reserve and a Johannesburg City Heritage Site. +-10min from the city centre

Description:

Hard Sandstone up to 14m.

Access Issues:

Cars can be parked on the side of the road near the pedestrian entrance to the Melville Koppies West at the T-Junction of Beyers Naude and Judith Rd.

Approach:

From the pedestrian entrance at the T-Junction of Beyers Naude and Judith Rd, follow a path left about 40m to the foot of the crag. The crag is not visible from the road as it is behind a number of trees.

1.9. Baqviaanspoort 0 routes in Area

1.10. King's Kloof 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 27.778801, -26.064391

Unique Features And Strengths:

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Description:

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

Access Issues:

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

Approach:

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge. From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge. Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

Where To Stay:

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

1.10.1. KK North East 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 27.780313, -26.064638

Description:

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Approach:

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalyptus.

1.10.2. KK North West 26 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 27.779638, -26.063880

Description:

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Approach:

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalypts. The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

1.10.3. KK South East 19 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 27.777823, -26.067801

Description:

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Approach:

From the parking area take the path upstream

1.10.4. KK South West 1 route in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 27.777552, -26.067063

Description:

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Approach:

From the parking lot, walk upstream on the left hand side of the river (looking upstream) until just before where the path splits to go to the SE sector. Turn right here, rock hop over the river. Get to the base of a slightly vegetated slab. Scramble up this carefully for about 20m (this is tricky when wet) until you see one route on the face above you on the left.