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Access issues inherited from The Chosspile

Due to past safety issues, as of mid 2011 the following access arrangements were negotiated by the MCSA with Mount Amanzi, which has legal control of the land:

Only recognised climbing club members (MCSA, SANCF, or University) who have an up-to-date membership card, with a photo, are allowed to climb at the Chosspile.

Each club member is allowed a single guest.

Members and guests first report to Mount Amanzi’s reception (same side of the road, but across the river from the Chosspile) where they sign an indemnity and pay R30 per person. Climbers are then given a wrist band for the day, which identifies them to guards both at the parking area and the crags.

Although guards are paid R5 per guest, please feel free to supplement their earnings.

Note: Yearly passes are available.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

From the park area follow the well marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up ! It is the first area you will reach.

Routes

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Grade Route

Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.

FA: Stephen Mallory, Wessel du Plooy & Cara Fleisher

Interesting stemming low down, and a powerful hand jam to clip for the crux.

FA: Rory lowther

FA: Rory Lowther

Set by Rory Lowther

FA: Steve Dunnet

Set by Debbie Mulder

FA: Rory Lowther

There are some rather aggressive starlings nesting nearby...be prepared to be flown at.

..

A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA).

A gem! Strange that it was not bolted sooner. Sustained face climbing up the right facing wall. Hardware by MCSA-Boven Fund.

FA: Matt Hoffman, Jun 2015

Natural Gear

FA: Roland Magg

Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.

Set by David Tapp

FA: Daniel Hannah, 2010

FA: Rory Lowther

Power climb up a black open book. Mantle shelf out of a roof, to the chains. Nice climb!

FA: Rory Lowther

FA: Rory Lowther

Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws.

This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe. New anchors May2015 (MCSA).

FA: Neil Margetts, 2008

Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA)

FA: David Tapp, 2010

The first route on the main face.Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under overhang and up the slab (crux). A 60m rope ESSENTIAL.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2010

Sport

FA: Dylan Morgan, 2004

Sport

FA: Mike Grant, 2004

FA: Rory Lawther

Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. Its a little artificial but if you climb the arete, try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors 100% as of 16 Jan 2010.

FA: Ronald Magg

Starts at the same bolt as Griffendore and goes to the left.

Set by Neil Margetts

FA: Robyn John

FA: Rory Lawther

FA: Rory Lawther

2m right of Huff 'n Puff

Set by Neil Margetts, 2007

FA: Rachel Bickford, 2007

8m right of Crookshanks

Set by David Tapp, Jan 2010

FA: David Tapp, Jan 2010

..

FA: Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings.

Set by David Tapp, Jan 2010

FA: Lize Boshoff, Jan 2010

Activity

Check out what is happening in Harry Potter Area.