A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Cable Way Crags 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 27.883299, -25.714869

Description:

ROUTE INFO Cableway crags route names and grading’s below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. Grades upgraded/downgraded still to come. The crags are to the East of the upper Cable way (right if facing the rock bands) and the top anchors are marked with Cairns please see diagram attached and the various areas at the moment. Because the cable way has been a flying site for paragliders for the past 24 years and hang gliders even longer we have decided to try stick to a flying them A no-bolting policy is in place in the area to the West of the cableway, nesting Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles). Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting. Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010): "We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter. We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non-breeding season to limit disturbance. We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the area, and if at all possible, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have a relationship with Eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc. Any help on these matters would be appreciated. Walter NESER, Vulpro, http://www.vultureconservation.co.za, Email: wneser@gmail.com

Access Issues:

• NB: MOST OF THE CRAGS ARE ACCESSED BY ABSEILING IN TO THE START OF THE CLIMBS, PLEASE TAKE CARE WHEN APROACHING AS THERE MAY BE CLIMBERS BELOW, SOME OF THE ABSEIL’S REQUIRE TWO RAPS. TIE KNOT’S IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE AND BE CARFULL NOT TO ABSEIL OFF THE END OF YOUR ROPES!! CHAINS ARE PROVIDED. A 80 M ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR THE ABSEIL INTO THIS AREA.

Approach:

Detailed Access/ Direction to crags. After finding your way to the lower Cable way station "Aerial Cable way" and having signed in you have two options to access the crags you can either walk up which takes around half an hour. Or you can catch the cable car and walk from the top cable car, which if there is no new will take about ten minutes. Walking: The path up starts at a gate at the top end (North) of the cableway parking lot. If the gate is locked you have to go out the entrance and walk around. The path is a pit broken in the beginning, but follows directly under the cable car from pylon to pylon. All areas can be reached with out having to go all the way to the upper cable car. The lower Area "Ten Up" Ten Up is accessed as one tops out of the first small break through the rock band on the path mentioned. One will notice a prominent knoll about 60 m to the right (East) with a faint track leading off in this direction. The chains are marked with a Cairn and a tennis ball on a stake. After abseiling down these (30m abseil) the climbs can be found on this slab you have just abbed down or the harder ones on the prominent butters South of you. To access these you can either walk around the bit tress to the Right (West) or abseil down from the chains that can be found as one climbs over the top of the buttress. The "Dust Bowl" and “Need for speed" areas These areas are directly above you if one looks up from the first chains first used to access "Ten up" The "Dust Bowl" is the crag with the big scoop / Cut back and "Need for speed" is the Cut back with Slab to the Right (East) of this. There is no obvious bath to these from here, but please follow the plastic chevron tape that has been tied to trees so that a path may be formed in future. Accessing the crags once at the top cable station. The upper crags "Dust Bowl and "Need for speed" areas are accessed by walking up to the top shop and toilet areas, next to the large brick tower and Radio mast. Once there, head East around the toilets, over a broken fence following the obvious path East down the ridge. After about 100m one will find a Cairn, and "tennis ball” markers. Follow these down to a ledge and chains above the Need for Speed Area, please be careful not to dislodge any rocks as there might be climbers below. The "Dust bowl Area" is now of to your left (West) and is about a 20m walk. To access the lower crag "Ten up" one must follow as above - the plastic chevron tape that has been tied to trees so that a path may be formed in future. There are not too many climbs open yet as the rock is fairly shattered / loose in places, but there is lots of potential at the bottom and further East along the ridge.

Ethic:

 The crag and parking: The climbing is on private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. Any individual making use of the crags access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesburg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt. There is currently no entrance fee payable at this time. • Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is a high-risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts • To ensure continued access please keep to the following: Visitors must sign the access book at the cableway ticket office and or Adventure shop located in the bottom cableway the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover, with the indemnity form for signing inside. Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the parking provided by the cableway. Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths. Visitors may only go to the climbing area and use the paths leading to them all other areas remain private. NO FIRES are allowed Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below). NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours. Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat “peels” etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper but ideally use the facilities provided by Aerial cableway. Respect other visitors. Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs when accessing areas from above as there may be climbers below. No guns allowed. In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952. Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above.

1.1. Dust Bowl 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The "Dust Bowl" and “Need for speed" areas These areas are directly above you if one looks up from the first chains first used to access "Ten up" The "Dust Bowl" is the crag with the big scoop / Cut back and "Need for speed" is the Cut back with Slab to the Right (East) of this.

Approach:

The upper crags "Dust Bowl and "Need for speed" areas are accessed by walking up to the top shop and toilet areas, next to the large brick tower and Radio mast. Once there, head East around the toilets, over a broken fence following the obvious path East down the ridge. After about 100m one will find a Cairn, and "tennis ball” markers. Follow these down to a ledge and chains above the Need for Speed Area, please be careful not to dislodge any rocks as there might be climbers below. The "Dust bowl Area" is now of to your left (West) and is about a 20m walk. To access the lower crag "Ten up" one must follow as above - the plastic chevron tape that has been tied to trees so that a path may be formed in future.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BOTTOM SLAB TO STANCE

FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE SCOOP

10 Sport 15m, 5
2 ** IT ALL STARTED WITH ADK

RIGHT HAND FROM OVERHANG ONTO ERET

20 Sport 20m, 8
3 * SNIVEL

OBVIOUSE BREAK ONTO LEFT FACING SLAB

18 Sport 20m, 9
4 ** FLAT SPIN

UP TO ROUGH BREAK RIGHT THROUGH OVERHANG

21 Sport 23m, 9
5 ** WERE's MY RAG

FROM STANCE 3M LEFT OF FLAT SPIN

22 Sport 20m, 9
6 * DUSTY

BOTTOM OF SCOOP START IN CORNER UP RIGHT FACING BULGING FACE

19 Sport 15m, 6
7 ** IN TANDEM

START 4M LEFT OF DUSTY UP OBVIOUS BLOCK

20 Sport 15m, 6
8 * VALLEY RELEASE

START 4M RIGHT AND BELOW IN TANDEM

15 Sport 25m, 9

1.2. Ten Up 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Ten Up is accessed as one tops out of the first small break through the rock band on the path mentioned.

Approach:

One will notice a prominent knoll about 60 m to the right (East) with a faint track leading off in this direction. The chains are marked with a Cairn and a tennis ball on a stake. After abseiling down these (30m abseil) the climbs can be found on this slab you have just abbed down or the harder ones on the prominent butters South of you. To access these you can either walk around the bit tress to the Right (West) or abseil down from the chains that can be found as one climbs over the top of the buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** TAKE OFF

AB IN AND CLIMB OUT ON MAIN SCOOP / SLABS

14 Sport 20m, 10
2 *** SAT

ON THE SOUTH FACE OF THE PROMINENT BUTRESS UP THE ARET

20 Sport 15m, 11
3 * IN THE CRUV

4M LEFT OF SAT UP THE CRACK - SHARED CHAINS WITH ASYMETRIC

17 Sport 15m, 6
4 * ASYMETRIC

3M LEFT OF IN THE CURV, START IN CRN. TENDING RIGHT

17 Sport 15m, 6
5 *** DEEP STALL

ON THE ARET 3M LEFT OF ASYMETRIC

21 Sport 15m, 7
6 *** MAC TWIST

ON THE RIGHT FACING CORNER 1M LEFT OF ASYMETRIC

23 Sport 15m

1.3. Need For Speed 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The "Dust Bowl" and “Need for speed" areas These areas are directly above you if one looks up from the first chains first used to access "Ten up" The "Dust Bowl" is the crag with the big scoop / Cut back and "Need for speed" is the Cut back with Slab to the Right (East) of this.

Approach:

The upper crags "Dust Bowl and "Need for speed" areas are accessed by walking up to the top shop and toilet areas, next to the large brick tower and Radio mast. Once there, head East around the toilets, over a broken fence following the obvious path East down the ridge. After about 100m one will find a Cairn, and "tennis ball” markers. Follow these down to a ledge and chains above the Need for Speed Area, please be careful not to dislodge any rocks as there might be climbers below. The "Dust bowl Area" is now of to your left (West) and is about a 20m walk. To access the lower crag "Ten up" one must follow as above - the plastic chevron tape that has been tied to trees so that a path may be formed in future.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** WING OVER

FROM THE CORNER STRAIGHT UP THE SLABS

10 Sport 30m
2 ** SLOW RIDE

FROM MID STANCE IN THE CORNER UP RIGHT HAND FACING CORNER MOVING OUT ONTO FACE.

17 Sport 20m, 10
3 ** TURN RIGHT DICK HEAD

FROM MID STANCE ON THE RIGHT FACING SLAB UP THE ARETE AND INTO THE CRACK SYSTEM TO TOP

21 Sport 20m

1.4. Big Sky 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** CLIFF LAUNCH

STARTING LEFT TO RIGHT MOVING FROM UNDERCUT ONTO SLAB

FA: PIERRE ACKERMAN

22 Sport 5
2 * SLOPE LAUNCH

DITTO BUT 2M RIGHT

FA: PIERRE ACKERMAN

12 Sport 7
3 * RAMP LAUNCH

DITTO BUT 3 M RIGHT OF RAMP LAUNCH

FA: PIERRE ACKERMAN

14 Sport 5
4 *** TO XAVIER

BIG RIGHT HAND FACE 10M UP FROM RAMP LAUNCH

FA: PIERRE CARTER AND ANDREW SMITH

19 Sport 28m, 14
5 *** TO THIN TO RIDE

DITTO IN THE CORNER UP THE FACE

FA: PIERRE ACKERMAN

19 Sport 28m, 13

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 BOTTOM SLAB TO STANCE Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Dust Bowl
** WING OVER Sport 30m 1.3. Need For Speed
12 * SLOPE LAUNCH Sport 7 1.4. Big Sky
14 ** TAKE OFF Sport 20m, 10 1.2. Ten Up
* RAMP LAUNCH Sport 5 1.4. Big Sky
15 * VALLEY RELEASE Sport 25m, 9 1.1. Dust Bowl
17 * ASYMETRIC Sport 15m, 6 1.2. Ten Up
* IN THE CRUV Sport 15m, 6 1.2. Ten Up
** SLOW RIDE Sport 20m, 10 1.3. Need For Speed
18 * SNIVEL Sport 20m, 9 1.1. Dust Bowl
19 * DUSTY Sport 15m, 6 1.1. Dust Bowl
*** TO THIN TO RIDE Sport 28m, 13 1.4. Big Sky
*** TO XAVIER Sport 28m, 14 1.4. Big Sky
20 ** IN TANDEM Sport 15m, 6 1.1. Dust Bowl
** IT ALL STARTED WITH ADK Sport 20m, 8 1.1. Dust Bowl
*** SAT Sport 15m, 11 1.2. Ten Up
21 ** FLAT SPIN Sport 23m, 9 1.1. Dust Bowl
*** DEEP STALL Sport 15m, 7 1.2. Ten Up
** TURN RIGHT DICK HEAD Sport 20m 1.3. Need For Speed
22 ** WERE's MY RAG Sport 20m, 9 1.1. Dust Bowl
** CLIFF LAUNCH Sport 5 1.4. Big Sky
23 *** MAC TWIST Sport 15m 1.2. Ten Up