Boothill Mostly trad climbing38 routes in crag
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The height of the cliffs range between 10m and 50m so there is something for everybody.
This is a trad-climbing area (with a few bolts here and there and, as of Feb 2010, one fully bolted climb – "The Scream"). Most of the climbs are easily top-roped – a few nuts, hexes and slings will be needed. 10m of static rope (or a spare climbing rope) for extending to trees is very useful as is a rope-protector.
The rock is excellent, there is some loose gravel along some of the top-outs. Crag is in shade in the mornings till midday. As it is mostly slightly overhanging the faces do not get too wet during rain and there are very few seeps. Due to afternoon sun, dries out very quickly.
Access issues inherited from Kloof Gorge
Many of the crags require you to pass through a fence/gate. Depending on the crag you can often just walk through or just jump the fence. This is allowed with most of the commonly used crags and is presumed to be allowed throughout the whole of Kloof unless events occur to prevent the use of the crag. Before heading to the crag it is suggested to sign in. At the bottom of the ravine there is a small park with a security guard at the entrance. Ask him about signing in for climbing and he should hand you a clipboard for you to full in your details. After the climbing you must go back and sign out. This is to ensure that everyone is accounted for and remains safe amount the large area of Kloof.
Starting at Stokers (next to railway line in Kloof village): •Drive alongside railway line on your left towards Durban through a circle. •Turn left onto bridge over railway. Left again at T-junction. You are heading towards Pietermaritzburg with the railway line on your left. •Turn right at T-junction into Abelia road (there will be a church on your left). •This glides right into Emolweni road. Follow Emolweni past Kloof High school and a traffic circle. Turn right at T-junction into Buckingham (so far, same route as to Rumdoodle). •After couple hundred metres turn left into Windsor. •Park about 100 m up Windsor Rd on your left on a wide verge under trees – there is a gate in front of you with a sign to climbers (have you signed in?) and a sign warning about exposed cliff edges – this is where you need to be. Once you're out of the car, continue as follows: •Go through the gate and follow the clear path, ignoring 1 vague turn off to left, cross a wooden bridge, ignore a steep downward turnoff to left, take next turn left ignoring the main path going steeply upward to right. You will see some houses on the main gorge edge to your left. •Follow the cliff edge till you are on a rock platform with magnificent views of Kloof gorge. You are now above C’est la Bon. If this has taken you more than 3 minutes you either got lost or you shouldn’t be attempting to climb. (It is also a 3 minute walk from here to the top of the last climb (Tuxedo Junction) in the list below – there is a clear path all along the top of the crag which is somewhat exposed in places so leave the beers till later.)
Keep it clean and know what you doing around unclimbed faces as its easy to slide on the grass and off the edge. There is also potential for new routes on the face left of Tuxedo, and off the ledge running for next 50m left of Tuxedo, and the large Boneyard style face (with a deep undercut) across deep gulley about 80m onwards.
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