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Description

The wall is reached by a scramble. of the far left of the wall as you stand on top of it, look out over the crag. The climbs are listed from left to right when standing at the base of the crag and facing it. The first route follows the exposed arête. All of the original bolts have recently been r eplaced with U-bolts.

Access issues inherited from The Canyon

If the Automatic gate is not open PLEASE DO NOT jump over the fence at the uphill end of the property. There is no need to contact the landowner, just be quiet and respect their privacy.

This is particularly important in the case of the Canyon, which is accessed through the goodwill of a private landowner making access issues highly important.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
SA 27 *** 1. The Beta Master Sport

This is a wild swinging ride up the overhanging arête on the extreme left-hand side of the crag. This superb line with a technical crux, relies on a cunning series of heel-hooks and side-pulls to fight your way to the top - put your thinking shoes on!

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991

2
SA 29 *** 2. Mantra Sport

Start as for the Beta Master but after the first bolt continue straight up the face. The technical crux is at the third bolt but the last moves may feel impossible 0n a red point attempt. This is a powerful and sustained route that is hard from start to finish. It is particularly strenuous for the vertically challenged.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991

3
SA 27 ** 3. Inferno Sport

This line follows the natural break to the right of 'Mantra'. This pumper has huge buckets that you won't believe you fell off. It is protected by two bolts and Rocks # 2, 7 and 5. The crux of this firey pump is is hanging in there for the last few moves. This route is often damp.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991

4
SA 27 *** 4. Viper Sport

This line has a nasty combination of crunched moves and slopers. Pull powerfully through the first roof. Extend the quick-draw on the second bolt if you don’t like the strenuous clip. A great route like all the others.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1992

5
SA 26 *** 5. Venom Sport

This is the most popular line on the wall. A roof start and steep climbing lead to a fingery and technical exit where most people struggle to make the transition between steep jugs and thin tweaky holds. The flowing sequence of moves creates a classic introduction to the hard routes on this wall and this route a valuable notch on the belt of any aspirant rockstar.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991

6
SA 29 ** 6. Vampire Direct Sport

A super powerful and bouldery start leads into the sustained climbing of Vampire. This route sees few repeats.

FA: J. Vlasto, 1992

7
SA 30 *** 7. Vamperama Sport

This line is a combo that uses the Vampire Direct start to Pumperama.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1994

8
SA 27 *** 8. Vampire Sport

Climb the blocks to the right until level with the second bolt on Vampire direct. After leaning across to clip, traverse left to the bolt line which is then followed straight up with sustained climbing. The crux is a powerful lock-off on an undercling. A positive ape index and fancy footwork help in the crux section.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991

9
SA 28 *** 9. Pumperama Sport

Start as for Vampire but climb follow the diagonal line of bolts leftward to finish at the top of the Beta Master.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1993

10

This steep line is the left-hand line found on the short wall at the base of the scramble. It is largely protected by wires but has a single bolt to protect the crux. Powerful climbing on clean rock leads to a crux which lives up to the route's name. This route is seldom climbed.

FA: Craig Robertson, 1993

11

This route was originally opened as a traditionally protected route but has been retro-bolted. Climb just right of the obvious break, up the centre of the wall to the left of the scramble. This is an excellent and juggy route to warm up for the other routes at the crag. Be prepared for a sting in the tail.

FA: Brett Clarke, 1990

12
SA 25 ** 12. Communique Sport

This was the first route opened at the "This and That" wall. It is three metres left of the scramble. Easy climbing on interesting holds leads to a single bolt below a contorted crux which is protected by smaller wires. Medium cams are required for the start.

FA: G. Camp, 1989

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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