Topo #4893

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 *** 1. The Beta Master

This is a wild swinging ride up the overhanging arête on the extreme left-hand side of the crag. This superb line with a technical crux, relies on a cunning series of heel-hooks and side-pulls to fight your way to the top - put your thinking shoes on!

27 Sport Unlink route
2 *** 2. Mantra

Start as for the Beta Master but after the first bolt continue straight up the face. The technical crux is at the third bolt but the last moves may feel impossible 0n a red point attempt. This is a powerful and sustained route that is hard from start to finish. It is particularly strenuous for the vertically challenged.

29 Sport Unlink route
3 ** 3. Inferno

This line follows the natural break to the right of 'Mantra'. This pumper has huge buckets that you won't believe you fell off. It is protected by two bolts and Rocks # 2, 7 and 5. The crux of this firey pump is is hanging in there for the last few moves. This route is often damp.

27 Sport Unlink route
4 *** 4. Viper

This line has a nasty combination of crunched moves and slopers. Pull powerfully through the first roof. Extend the quick-draw on the second bolt if you don’t like the strenuous clip. A great route like all the others.

27 Sport Unlink route
5 *** 5. Venom

This is the most popular line on the wall. A roof start and steep climbing lead to a fingery and technical exit where most people struggle to make the transition between steep jugs and thin tweaky holds. The flowing sequence of moves creates a classic introduction to the hard routes on this wall and this route a valuable notch on the belt of any aspirant rockstar.

26 Sport Unlink route
6 ** 6. Vampire Direct

A super powerful and bouldery start leads into the sustained climbing of Vampire. This route sees few repeats.

29 Sport Unlink route
7 *** 7. Vamperama

This line is a combo that uses the Vampire Direct start to Pumperama.

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8 *** 8. Vampire

Climb the blocks to the right until level with the second bolt on Vampire direct. After leaning across to clip, traverse left to the bolt line which is then followed straight up with sustained climbing. The crux is a powerful lock-off on an undercling. A positive ape index and fancy footwork help in the crux section.

27 Sport Unlink route
9 *** 9. Pumperama

Start as for Vampire but climb follow the diagonal line of bolts leftward to finish at the top of the Beta Master.

28 Sport Unlink route

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