Takes a direct line up the centre of the wall right of the gully. Start between the large crack to the right and the layback crack to the left. Climb up to a bolt, and then straight up past several rails to a peg. Climb directly up and through the top bulge to exit. Fortunately a chain anchor has recently been placed at the top of this line so climbers no longer have the almost impossible, sloping and grass covered exit. However, one needs to rap down to get to the anchors to thread. Not as much of a mission as it sounds, and well worth it. Without a doubt one of the best routes in Kloof Gorge.
retro-bolted Feb 2010 by Gerald Camp with permission of the FA preserving some “flavour”.
The large crack to right has either not been climbed or is unrecorded… Not too sure of exactly where the “layback crack to the left” is?
- Ethic: inherited from Boothill
Keep it clean and know what you doing around unclimbed faces as its easy to slide on the grass and off the edge. There is also potential for new routes on the face left of Tuxedo, and off the ledge running for next 50m left of Tuxedo, and the large Boneyard style face (with a deep undercut) across deep gulley about 80m onwards.
First Ascent: A.Russel-Boulton & R. Uken, 1989
Located in Boothill approx:
Route Grade Citations
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