Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Kwa-Zulu Natal 1,085 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 30.726196, -28.737587

1.1. King Solomon's Mine 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.1.1. Meadow Boulders 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.1.2. Sector B Boulders 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.2. Shongweni 88 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.686773, -29.866498

1.2.1. Magnetic Wall Area 40 routes in Area

Summary:

1.2.2. The Caves 48 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3. Drakensburg 189 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.3.1. Sentinel 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.2. The Amphitheatre 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.3. Mount Amery 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.4. Singati Valley 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.5. Mount Oompie 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.6. The Ifidi Pinnacles 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.7. Icidi Pencil 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.8. Mbundini 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.9. Rwanqa 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.10. Mnweni 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.11. Mponjwane 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.12. Rockeries Pinnacles 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.13. Ntonjelana eShonalanga Valley 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.14. The Saddle 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.15. Cathedral Peak 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.16. The Bell 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.17. The Horns 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.18. Chessmen 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.19. Ntonjelane Needle 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.20. Mitre 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.21. Twins 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.22. Xeni Peak 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.23. Elephant 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.24. Cockade 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.25. Plume 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.26. Column 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.27. Pyramid 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.28. Cleft Peak 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Ice

1.3.29. Castle Buttress 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.30. Organ Pipes 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.31. Eastman's Fork 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.32. Fourth Cigar 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.33. Amphlett 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.34. Turret 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.35. Sterkhorn 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.36. Cathkin Peak 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Ice

1.3.37. Monk's Cowl 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.38. Champagne Castle 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Ice

1.3.39. Old Woman Grinding Corn 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.40. The Spire 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Aid

1.3.41. Injazacila 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.42. Injasuti 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.3.43. Bannerman's Rib 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.44. Erskine 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.45. Bond 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.46. Potterill 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.47. Kambule 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.48. Giant's Castle 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice and Unknown

1.3.49. Ngaqamadolo Cleft 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.50. King Kong 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.51. Minaret 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.52. Sandleni Pinnacle 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.53. Rhino Peak 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Ice

1.3.54. Mashai Ridge 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.55. Panic Pile 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.56. The Monk 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.57. Mashai Buttress 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.58. Mzimude Buttress 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4. Monteseel 311 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 30.684401, -29.736371

Unique Features And Strengths:

Monteseel is all Trad climbing on sandstone.

Access Issues:

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Approach:

The Monteseel crags are roughly half way between Durban and Pietermaritzburg. From either city, take the N3 toll road and turn off at the "Hammersdale" off-ramp (exit 34). If approaching from the Pietermaritzburg side, then turn left at the end of the off-ramp, follow the road round a sharp bend and back in the direction of Pietermaritzurg. If approaching from the Durban side, you obviously turn right at the end of the off-ramp, cross the bridge over the N3, then follow the road round the same sharp bend. Continue on for about two kilometres, cross a bridge over a railway line, and then, a couple of hundred metres further, take the turn-off that leads sharply back to the right. This road winds up a hill, past Cordies Hotel (formerly the Colorado) on your right, and reaches a T-junction about a kilometre from the previous turn-off. At the T-junction, turn right and follow the road that winds up to the top of Inchanga Hill. About two kilometres from the T-junction, just before the top of the hill, take the turn to left that is sign-posted "Monteseel". Drive about 100 m up a small hill to another T-junction and turn left into Albert Street. Take the second turn to the right into Seeles Drive. Follow this gravel road for about half a kilometre and park on the side of the road adjacent to a T-junction formed by a gravel road on the right. The Lower Middle Buttress and near Eastern Buttress are barely 50 m away on the left.

Ethic:

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

1.4.1. Eastern Buttress 195 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.682173, -29.735017

1.4.2. Western Buttress 97 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 30.673751, -29.735371

1.4.3. Lower Middle Buttress 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The Lower Middle Buttress is located directly opposite (downhill from) the usual car park. Despite its name, there is no Upper Middle Buttress!

Approach:

The base of the crag may be reached in one of three ways. The first option is to take the path from the car park and continue down this path between the Eastern and Lower Middle Buttresses. The path forks near a very large block. The lesser path leads off to the right along a large ledge that runs along the base of the Eastern Buttress. The major path carries on down into the valley below. Follow this path until it is possible to scramble across to the left (facing downhill) to reach the bottom of the Lower Middle Buttress. An alternative approach is to scramble/climb down the bushy corner between A Sight for Sore Eyes and Penny in the Slot. An abseil provides the final alternative. The climbs on this Buttress are grouped into four areas.

1.5. White Umfolozi River 125 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.1. Lower Warrior Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.2. Upper Warrior Wall 32 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.3. Power Wall 35 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.4. Gully Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.5. Friction Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.6. Bits & Pieces Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6. Old Shongweni Crags 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7. Hilton Crags 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.1. Beacon Buttress 35 routes in Area

Summary:

1.7.2. Serengeti Crag 21 routes in Area

Summary:

1.7.3. Atom Smasher Crag 34 routes in Area

Summary:

1.8. Kloof Gorge 102 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.834469, -29.760648

1.8.1. Rumdoodle 45 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.2. The Bone Yard 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.8.3. Boothill 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 30.841924, -29.769688

Unique Features And Strengths:

The height of the cliffs range between 10m and 50m so there is something for everybody.

Description:

This is a trad-climbing area (with a few bolts here and there and, as of Feb 2010, one fully bolted climb – "The Scream"). Most of the climbs are easily top-roped – a few nuts, hexes and slings will be needed. 10m of static rope (or a spare climbing rope) for extending to trees is very useful as is a rope-protector.

The rock is excellent, there is some loose gravel along some of the top-outs. Crag is in shade in the mornings till midday. As it is mostly slightly overhanging the faces do not get too wet during rain and there are very few seeps. Due to afternoon sun, dries out very quickly.

Approach:

Starting at Stokers (next to railway line in Kloof village): •Drive alongside railway line on your left towards Durban through a circle. •Turn left onto bridge over railway. Left again at T-junction. You are heading towards Pietermaritzburg with the railway line on your left. •Turn right at T-junction into Abelia road (there will be a church on your left). •This glides right into Emolweni road. Follow Emolweni past Kloof High school and a traffic circle. Turn right at T-junction into Buckingham (so far, same route as to Rumdoodle). •After couple hundred metres turn left into Windsor. •Park about 100 m up Windsor Rd on your left on a wide verge under trees – there is a gate in front of you with a sign to climbers (have you signed in?) and a sign warning about exposed cliff edges – this is where you need to be. Once you're out of the car, continue as follows: •Go through the gate and follow the clear path, ignoring 1 vague turn off to left, cross a wooden bridge, ignore a steep downward turnoff to left, take next turn left ignoring the main path going steeply upward to right. You will see some houses on the main gorge edge to your left. •Follow the cliff edge till you are on a rock platform with magnificent views of Kloof gorge. You are now above C’est la Bon. If this has taken you more than 3 minutes you either got lost or you shouldn’t be attempting to climb. (It is also a 3 minute walk from here to the top of the last climb (Tuxedo Junction) in the list below – there is a clear path all along the top of the crag which is somewhat exposed in places so leave the beers till later.)

Ethic:

Keep it clean and know what you doing around unclimbed faces as its easy to slide on the grass and off the edge. There is also potential for new routes on the face left of Tuxedo, and off the ledge running for next 50m left of Tuxedo, and the large Boneyard style face (with a deep undercut) across deep gulley about 80m onwards.

1.8.4. The Canyon 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The Canyon consists of two separate (and very different) walls. The "This and That" wall is situated near the tip of the spur along which the crags are approached. The base of the crag is reached by abseiling down one of the routes (sometimes rather difficult) or by an easy scramble on the left as you reach the top of the crag. The routes here are steep, powerful and of superb quality. The crag is situated high above the valley floor making for some awesomely exposed climbing.

The "Eroica" wall is reached by walking back toward the head of the deep canyon that gave the area its name. This striking and impressive face is difficult to miss. The base of the crag can be reached by abseiling down a steep scramble in the corner next to La’ Boheme (27) or down one of the routes. It is also possible to walk further up and scramble down into the canyon to approach the crag from the uphill side (take along a machete if you intend doing this in summer).

Access Issues:

If the Automatic gate is not open PLEASE DO NOT jump over the fence at the uphill end of the property. There is no need to contact the landowner, just be quiet and respect their privacy.

This is particularly important in the case of the Canyon, which is accessed through the goodwill of a private landowner making access issues highly important.

Approach:

After signing in continue along Bridle Road - an extension of Kloof Falls Road - which winds up a steep hill with some view sites on the right. Park outside the Physiotherapists at 44 Bridle road - this is about 1,2 km from the Ranger's Office. During the week please find an alternative parking so as not to obstruct the clients' view of the road when they exit the property. A gate at the downhill end of the property provides access if the Automatic gate is not open, staying on the side of the house closest to the road, walk to the top end of the property where there is a gate in the electric fence. Go through the gate and follow the path to a second gate. The path beyond the second gate leads steeply downhill to the top of the "This and That" wall.

1.9. World's View 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.9.1. Lefthand Side 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.2. Main Buttress Area 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.3. Righthand Side 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10. Old Baldy 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.688178, -29.667699

Unique Features And Strengths:

Granite slab. All Slab. 1 jug 100m up. Average of 20 m leadouts

Description:

Granite.

Access Issues:

Bring money for children who help you. Bring a panga or light chainsaw. Wear jeans and change when you reach the cliff. this is on private land. ask permission to go on. normally people are kind but be respectful.

Where To Stay:

Kloof or hillcrest. Or if you VERY brave try find a place in Drummond

1.11. Laager Farm 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12. Howick Falls 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.237903, -29.484350

1.13. Qanda Rock 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14. Dargle Mountain (iNhlozane) 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Aid

1.15. Delville Wood 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.15.1. Buggery Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.15.2. The trench 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.16. Fernkliff 0 routes in Crag

1.17. Kranskop 0 routes in Crag

1.18. Oribi Gorge 0 routes in Crag

1.19. Winston Park 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.19.1. Main Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The path from down the hill reaches the crags in the vicinity of the main climbing area. This may be identified (from above) by a large, flat-topped, attached block.

Approach:

The usual descent was a scramble down the gully / chimney between the Main Wall and the block. Dave Drummond has recently placed chains near the top of this chimney and abseiling is recommended.

History:

Due to building operations at No 47 Montgomery Drive, the usual access is not available and the only way to get to the Main Wall and Wormhole Sector currently (October 2007) is via a 30 minute walk along the top of the crags from the Jan Smuts Wall.

1.19.2. Wormhole Sector 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Approach:

This area is about 150 m to the right (looking out over the top of the crags) of the scramble on the Main Wall. It may be identified from above by a fairly large area of flat rock that is split by a deep crevice - the 'Wormhole'. Descend via the wormhole (a bit tricky near the bottom) or abseil in off one of the gum trees, or ab using the chains at the top of 'Knickers'.

1.19.3. Jan Smuts Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Approach:

Jan Smuts Wall in Winston Park is at the end of Jan Smuts Avenue close to the traditional Winston Park climbing area. To access go to the stop street after the lane of trees at the end of Jan Smuts Avenue. Turn left at the stop street and carry on down and park at the end of the road (which is still Jan Smuts Avenue). Do not turn off into Montgomery Drive. There is a lookout point at the parking lot with a fine view towards Durban and the sea. Follow the path to the East from the lookout point down to the cliffs where you will see an obvious point to scramble down. You will see some concrete and corrugated iron which was put up to stop access by the ungodly, but it is still fairly easy to scramble down on the Northern side of the concrete. Alternately, abseil off a tree, or from the chains at the top of “Oubaas”.

After the scramble, walk north about 12 m and you will see the start of the bolted routes up on your left. Alternatively just before the concrete there is a path off to the right. Follow that around the Southern Tip of the crag. This is a fairly easy scramble own.

This has to be one of the most easily accessible climbing venues in the area, and is starting to see quite a lot of traffic. The lines have been well bolted, even overbolted. The idea is that someone climbing at their limit will still be safe.

1.19.4. Old Man's Crag 0 routes in Area

Approach:

Go to the stop street after the lane of trees at the end of Jan Smuts. There is an open Escom Servitude on your right. By car turn right and right again at the T-junction. Go through the gate and then turn left (sometimes the grass is long) and park under the old pylons overlooking Giba Gorge. From the pylon follow a path going to the right (facing out) below a new fence. After 10m take the path on the left hand side down the hill to come out at the top of the climb. The climbs are close to some strelitzias on the cliff edge. They are on the direct line between the pylon and the second house from the left on the opposite hill. Abseil down on the face to the side of two large cracks using the three large blocks as anchors. Take long slings or cord for this. Although the strelitzias have been used to abseil off, it is not recommended. Alternatively there is a scramble about 50 m to the left of the gully (South side), which you will have seen on your left as you descended. This is not recommended. It gets hot working one’s way back along the base of the cliffs. The gully has been sealed with corrugated iron and is not an access route.

1.20. Uvongo Beach Front 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.394013, -30.834964

Description:

Bolted but please check the bolts some of them need to be replaced, rusted and old.

1.21. Sani Pass 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Ice