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Summary

The kloof name derives from the unusual rock formations in the area which are reminiscent of those found in the Cape Cedarberg.

Description

The rock is good and is cleanest at the lower end of the kloof. The longest climbs (approximately 80m) are near the Tonquani junction. Those on the true right tend to be the most sustained.

Water is always available.

Routes are listed from the bottom (i.e. junction of Cedarberg- and Tonquani Kloofs) to the top of the kloof.

Access issues

The land is owned by the MCSA, so open to MCSA members and guests (1 guest per member) otherwise permits are required.

Contact the MCSA Johannesburg Section for permits.

Approach

The most convenient approach to Cedarberg kloof is from Mountain Sanctuary Park. The walk from the MSP parking to the MCSA campsite takes about 15 to 20 minutes. You can enter Cedarberg kloof from the campsite via Grey Gully and walk down the kloof. The walk to the Tonquani junction takes 30 to 45 minutes. Alternatively you can abseil into the kloof via Frog Gully which enters nearer to the Tonquani junction.

Where to stay

Accommodation is available at Mountain Sanctuary Park. Camping is also permitted at the MCSA campsite but no facilities are available. Water in the kloof is potable but you will have to carry water from the kloof to the campsite.

Ethic

Bolting is prohibited.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

The MCSA have released a guide book for the area which is the primary reference for climbing routes. The route guide uses the SA grading system and grades have been converted from the old alphanumeric system using the convention as per the article "Grade Comparison Guide" by Clive Curson, p118 of the MCSA Journal #98 of 1995.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
15 *** Callisto Crack Unknown 22m
3
17 Lowlife Unknown
4
19 Perfidious Purple Unknown
5
16 ** Dom's Party Unknown 35m
6
27 Eliminator Unknown 18m
7
28 Terminator Unknown 18m
8
11 * Lunch Trad 20m
9
22 * Skelda Unknown 20m
10
19 * Waiting for the Sun Unknown 20m
11
19 * Precious Moments Unknown 20m
12
15 * Kulu Unknown 20m
13
20 Unnamed Unknown
14
20 Strange Days Unknown 20m
15
22 * Horse Latitudes Unknown
16
17
18 Trivial Pursuit Unknown
18
14 * The Citizen Unknown 20m
19
16 * Mercers Layback Unknown 20m
20
12 * Easy Meat Unknown 20m
22
5 Grey Gully Unknown
23
21 Perseverance Pays Unknown 6m
24
16 Osso Blues Unknown 30m
25
15 High Jinks Unknown 45m
26
16 Trippa a la Mama Unknown 45m
27
17 Blood Pressure Unknown 44m
28
16 The Mammoth Hunters Unknown 25m
29
20 Burp Unknown 25m
30
26 * Carrion Comfort Unknown 10m
31
19 * Solidarity Crack Unknown 10m
32
30 Twilight Floozy Unknown
33
17 Clinker Crack Unknown 13m
34
5 Torch Route Unknown
35
15 ** Sweaty Chicken Unknown 40m
36
15 20th Century Youth Unknown 38m
37
17 Coming of Age Unknown 60m
38
21 * Wicked Wench Unknown 20m
39
15 Naughty Daughter Unknown 40m
40

Just downstream of the wormhole descent, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof.

  1. 30m 27 Use roots to climb the left side of the cone. Climb the continuation crack which overhangs to begin with before tackling the roof crack. Gain slab above roof, and hence onto ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge.

  2. 18m 15 To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.

Variation:

  1. 18m 13 For a direct finish, belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top. (Mar 1974 J. Linke and T. Hoy)

Note: Originally opened as LONGDROP at 17,A2 in Mar 1974 by D.

FA: D. Peters & L. Mallen, 1974

FFA: Richard Lord, 1990

41
13 Toadstool Unknown 63m
42
15 Golden Pitcher Frontal Unknown 77m
44
10 Pitcher Picture Unknown 65m
45
18 * Rumplestiltskin Unknown 65m
46
? * Golden Pitcher Crag Unknown 55m
47
11 Crocodile Unknown 48m
48
19 Astroguava Unknown 25m
49
15 Cuzco Unknown 52m
50
23 Morning Overhang Unknown
51
8 * Church Window Unknown 80m
52
19 German Tetris Unknown
53
10 Knees Unknown 63m
54
18 Footloose Unknown 70m
55
10 Buffalo Pinnacle Unknown 72m
56
10 * Labyrinth Unknown 97m
57
16 ** Red Falcon Crag Unknown 87m
58
17 Ruborcanis Unknown 45m
59
10 Dilemma Unknown 69m
60
17 * Red Light Unknown 67m
61
17 No Name Climb Unknown 75m
62
20 * Black Shadow Unknown 33m
63
15 Phydren Unknown 97m
64
20 Heatstorm Unknown 48m
65
11 Deception Unknown 62m
66
13 Nigricollis Unknown 70m
67
19 ** Adrenalin Unknown 76m
68
19 ** Adrenalin Variant Unknown 73m
69
11 * Maternity Couch Unknown 43m
70
11 Open Offer Unknown 40m
71
15 * Lull Before the Storm Unknown 50m
72
19 Aerodynamics Unknown 47m
73
20 Auspice Unknown 75m
74
24 ** Agonising Hands Unknown 65m
75
25 Doggle Unknown 25m
76
19 Fascist Groove Thang Unknown 35m
77
17 ** Cedarberg Traverse Unknown 120m
78
6 Frog Gully Unknown
79
20 ** Suicide Unknown 85m
80
17 The Punter's Groove Unknown 48m
82
23 Dogspyder Unknown 40m
83
18 * Leaders Corner Unknown 51m
84
13 David and Jonathan Unknown 52m
85
20 Spiderman Unknown 70m
86
17 Pretty Dumb Unknown 39m
87
15 Straight Jerry Unknown 60m
88
18 ** Tigatrix Unknown 45m
89
19 *** Boggle Unknown 61m
90
20 * The Tiger Hunt Unknown 60m
91
17 Horseplay Unknown 35m
92
19 Horseplay Variant Unknown 53m
93
18 Arabella-Mella Unknown 25m
94
18 * The Under Toad Unknown 20m
95
11 Antiseptic Unknown 27m
96
10 Rana Unknown 59m
97
11 Rana Variant Unknown 54m
98
15 Old Year's Eve Crag Unknown 54m
99
15 Double Cross Unknown 77m
100
21 ** Hang Dog Unknown
101
17 Fistula Unknown 34m
102
19 Sorrento Unknown 87m
103
17 Do You Feel Like We Do Unknown 92m
104
26 ** The Canine Abyss Unknown 20m
105
20 Cedarberg Crescent Unknown 32m
106
16 ** Butterfly Unknown 56m
107
25 Enchanters End Game Unknown 10m
108
23 The Fingertip Fandango Unknown 15m
109
23 Conquistador Unknown 28m
110
23 Montezuma's Revenge Unknown 20m
111
10 Red Rubble Unknown 57m
112
22 Predator Unknown 20m
113
15 *** Golden Balls Trad 80m, 2

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of Cedarberg Recess.

  1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in Cedarberg Corner), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

  2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation:

  1. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

FA: A.M. Maddison & A. Mercer, 1985

114
19 * Cedarberg Recess Unknown 41m
115
10 Cedarberg Corner Unknown 81m
117
22 * Sunday Driver Unknown 45m
118
23 * Afterburner Unknown 20m
119
23 The Fast Lane Unknown 18m
120
17 Junction Corner Unknown 74m

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