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Summary

The kloof name derives from the unusual rock formations in the area which are reminiscent of those found in the Cape Cedarberg.

Description

The rock is good and is cleanest at the lower end of the kloof. The longest climbs (approximately 80m) are near the Tonquani junction. Those on the true right tend to be the most sustained.

Water is always available.

Routes are listed from the bottom (i.e. junction of Cedarberg- and Tonquani Kloofs) to the top of the kloof.

Access issues

The land is owned by the MCSA, so open to MCSA members and guests (1 guest per member) otherwise permits are required.

Contact the MCSA Johannesburg Section for permits.

Approach

The most convenient approach to Cedarberg kloof is from Mountain Sanctuary Park. The walk from the MSP parking to the MCSA campsite takes about 15 to 20 minutes. You can enter Cedarberg kloof from the campsite via Grey Gully and walk down the kloof. The walk to the Tonquani junction takes 30 to 45 minutes. Alternatively you can abseil into the kloof via Frog Gully which enters nearer to the Tonquani junction.

Where to stay

Accommodation is available at Mountain Sanctuary Park. Camping is also permitted at the MCSA campsite but no facilities are available. Water in the kloof is potable but you will have to carry water from the kloof to the campsite.

Ethic

Bolting is prohibited.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

The MCSA have released a guide book for the area which is the primary reference for climbing routes. The route guide uses the SA grading system and grades have been converted from the old alphanumeric system using the convention as per the article "Grade Comparison Guide" by Clive Curson, p118 of the MCSA Journal #98 of 1995.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Just downstream of the wormhole descent, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof.

  1. 30m 27 Use roots to climb the left side of the cone. Climb the continuation crack which overhangs to begin with before tackling the roof crack. Gain slab above roof, and hence onto ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge.

  2. 18m 15 To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.

Variation:

  1. 18m 13 For a direct finish, belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top. (Mar 1974 J. Linke and T. Hoy)

Note: Originally opened as LONGDROP at 17,A2 in Mar 1974 by D.

FA: D. Peters & L. Mallen, 1974

FFA: Richard Lord, 1990

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of Cedarberg Recess.

  1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in Cedarberg Corner), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

  2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation:

  1. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

FA: A.M. Maddison & A. Mercer, 1985

Activity

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