Showing all 97 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Stormwatch Area | |||||
14 | Behind the Tree
| 4 | |||
18 | ★ Two-Legged Cockroach
Climb the recess/hand crack just to the left of TSSPMQ. FA: Darryl Margetts, 2007 | 5 | |||
15 | ★ The Silver Studded Phantom Motorcycle Queen
15 using the open book. 17 using the thin face on the right without the left corner. FA: Neil Margetts, 2006 | 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Crook and Crime
Climb the left hand side of the Lower Area. Starting behind a tree, climb up steep rock and move diagonally right to a groove. Climb this to the top. The tree you start behind has a bees nest halfway up the tree. The climb was first opened ground up on trad trending more left at the start and then up right. The direct bolted variation is about 24. Use the rightmost bolts at the start. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & J. Colenso, 1988 | 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ Vandals
Steep line first opened on natural gear. FA: K. Smith, 1991 | 8 | |||
27 | ★★★ Vandals Direct
Start from the river bed at the base of the boulders, a spot is a good plan here to stop the climber falling backward into the rock. Continue up as for 'Vandals'. This variation adds a bit of pump to the already sustained 'Vandals'. | 8 | |||
26 | Hooded Vandal
Starts on 'Vandals', uses the first 3 bolts of 'Vandals' then breaks right onto 'Hoodlum' and continues on 'Hoodlum' to the top. | 8 | |||
27 | Hoodlum
Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on 'Vandals' chains. FA: Wesley Black, 2012 | 8 | |||
27 | When the Musics Over
Step out over the pool and follow four bolts leftward finishing up the crack. Additional natural gear is recommended. FA: K. Smith, 1991 | 4 | |||
26 | Mr Toad's Wild Ride
A steep natural crack line just left of FABERGE. This becomes a jelly of wasps in winter. It climbs the crack directly above the boulder with a U-bolt in it. FA: K. Smith., 1988 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Faberge
A classic sustained route, a must do! FA: R. Nattras, 1990 | 7 | |||
31 | ★★ Stormwatch
A complex and sequential sport journey, not a give away at its grade! It was the first 31 in the country even though there was no 30 yet at the time. The direct start is grade 32. FA: R. Nattras, 1990 | 8 | |||
24 | ★★ Strong Arm of the Law
Start in the upstream facing corner of BREAKING THE RULES before moving left onto the face above. A good, pumpy route. FA: Clive Curson | 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Breaking All the Rules
Fernkloof forms a short narrow gorge just before it opens out to the north. Halfway down the steep left hand wall of this gorge is an upstream facing dihedral.
FA: K.M. Smith, 1986 | 20m | |||
27 | ★★ Lawyers, Guns and Money
Starts just right of the arete moving up slightly rightwards up to a cubby hole with chains on the left of this. This route has been recently re-bolted. FA: J. Colenso & T. Rogers | 8 | |||
25 | ★ True Sailing is Dead
Start just left of the leaning tree, a fun route. FA: K. Smith | 6 | |||
24 PROT:R | ★ The Sultans of Swing
Starts in the tree. A good route although a bit necky. Don't fall low down or you could end up straddling the tree - ouch! The bolts are also suspect - take care. FA: Stewart Middlemiss | 5 | |||
Open Project
A single u-bolt serves as an anchor to this project. The route takes the black streak right of SULTANS OF SWING. | 1 | ||||
Mirror Mirror Area | |||||
18 | ★ Utopian Beach Hermit
The climb ascends the slab above the first pool, opposite the MIRROR MIRROR wall. Traverse in rightwards above the water and up the seam via a mantleshelf move. FA: Neil Margetts, 2006 | 5 | |||
32 | ★ Aqualung
Route tops out FA: Paul Brouard, 2000 | 5 | |||
30 | Betamax
Climbs a line that curves rightwards to share the chains with ACROMAX. Set: Andrew Pedley FA: Herman Lombard, 2013 | 5 | |||
29 | ★★ Acromax
The third bolted line downstream from the big pool, starting at the undercling just left of the tree. A short bouldery route, pack in the power. FA: G. Murray, 1991 | 5 | |||
23 | ★ Lost Ruby
Starts just right of the tree, 2m right of ACROMAX. If you use the tree, the grade drops to 22. FA: Neil Margetts, 2007 | 6 | |||
23 | ★ Thunderstruck
Climb the groove 3m right of ACROMAX. Note: Retrobolted by Neil Margetts (with permission) FA: J. Orrick, Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991 | 5 | |||
22 | Unknown
FA: Ian Guest & Tim Hoole | ||||
23 | ★ The Favourite Game
Climb the face 2m right of THUNDERSTRUCK. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.) FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991 | 2 | |||
16 | ★ F2 Corner
A trad line taking the easy upstream facing corner. | ||||
20 | ★ Beautiful Losers
2m Right of THE FAVOURITE GAME is a F2 Corner, BEAUTIFUL LOSERS climbs the face and overhang 1m right of this corner. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.) FA: Darryl Margetts, 1991 | 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Directly Unkown
Starts from the boulders just above the lower pool. There is a dyno start with the route going left and finishing up and around the corner. The old bolts still need to be removed and must not be used at all. FA: J. Orrock, 1991 | ||||
25 | ★★ Naked Instincts/ Slight Change
A 10m route. 10m upstream of MIRROR MIRROR is a short overhanging wall. Starting off a boulder on the right, climb the broken crack-line to exit right to a ledge about 2m from the top of the wall. This route was originally opened by Roger Nattrass on natural at grade 24. A key hold has broken off to bring the grade up to 25 or maybe even 26? FA: Roger Nattrass & Steve Bradshaw, 1987 Set: Alard Hüfner, 1998 | 6 | |||
25 | ★★ The Energy of Slaves
This climb starts on the steep face above a boulder which is ascended after the pool. Climb up the face (1 bolt) to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a corner, climb the corner to a roof. Pull through the roof and climb the headwall to the top. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.) FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1992 | 4 | |||
30 | ★★ A Will to Cower
Climbs the smooth face on the left of GLASS MENAGERIE. This was Herman du Plessis old project. A bent bolt needs to be removed. Some rather thin climbing on this one! FA: Paul Brouard, 2001 | 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Glass Menagerie
The line going up the middle of the smooth pink face. Excellent technical route. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991 | 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Mirror Mirror
Start the climb from the tree growing over the lower pool. Climb the face straight up to the groove between the two small roofs of GLASS MENAGERIE and THE LOOKING GLASS. A good route but with one very hard move. Set: Eric Riemann & Joffrey Hyman FA: K. Smith, 1986 | 9 | |||
25 | ★★ The Looking Glass
The climb shares its start with MIRROR MIRROR. Head up right and up to the roof. Pull through the right hand side of the roof. FA: Eric Riemann & Joffrey Hyman FA: Peter Lazarus, 1991 | 10 | |||
25 | ★★ Liquid Glass
The route starts from the little island below the MIRROR MIRROR wall. Boulder up the start to a ledge and climb the open book to a small roof then pull though to chains. FA: Eric Riemann, 2003 | 7 | |||
22 | ★ Bambie and the Broken Leg
Use either the face or the arête to start. Shares the chains with REFLECTED SINS. FA: Johan Olivier, 2007 | 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Reflected Sins
Scramble up to ledge (just right of Mirror Mirror wall) above first wade pools via roots on the right. Start near back of recess by small tree on this ledge. Climb up leftwards to chains. FA: Neil Margetts, 2006 | 10 | |||
17 | Trad Unknown
An unknown line that can be lead on natural and has top anchors. There is a large 'recess' with a few trees growing in it just right of THE LOOKING GLASS. The climb is on the uneven face just right of this. It can serve as a warm up route. A very easy scramble from the downstream side will get you to the top to set up a top rope. | ||||
Upper Area | |||||
7 | Crooked Corner
This is a route starting about 10m below Middle Gully Right and sloping back at an easy angle except for the final 6m. FA: J.P.K. Roux, 1948 | ||||
13 | Last Flight
1
10
10m
2
13
15m
3
11
15m
On the right side of the kloof below Middle Gully Right is a small prominent buttress. The climb makes its way up the centre of this buttress.
FA: C. Baker, David Hughes & P. Goodridge, 1977 | 40m | |||
10 | ★ Twinkletoes
The climb starts 20m to the left of AMBUSH and goes up the obvious chimney/corner to the left of the overhanging buttress.
A pleasant climb. | 55m | |||
22 | Desperate Measures
1
21
23m
2
15
15m
3
22
40m
Located about 40m downstream from the top of the upper area on the true left. The route starts just left of massive overhangs (piton can be seen in small rail just below the overhangs)
FA: Robert Powell & Deon Grobelaar, 2000 | 78m | |||
17 | ★ Rubber Soul
1
13
14m
2
17
14m
3
15
9m
4
15
25m
The route takes a direct line up the front of a buttress 18m upstream from AMBUSH and 18m downstream from the 12m waterfall. The start is directly below an inverted V 8m up and at the centre of the buttress wall.
Note: A pleasant direct route on good clean rock. FA: A.D. Barley & M. White, 1968 | 62m | |||
14 | Moonrise
1
10
30m
2
14
30m
This route follows a shallow crack/recess which runs almost to the top of the cliffs, to the right of RUBBER SOUL.
Note: From the right hand end of the ledge at the top of the first pitch one can climb to the top over grade 8 rock. FA: K.M. Smith & P. Bender, 1977 | 60m | |||
15 | Hitch Hiker
1
13
15m
2
11
15m
3
15
35m
Starts 4m to right of RUBBER SOUL.
Variation: From the right hand edge of the ledge at top of pitch 2, one can lower the grade to 10 by climbing out to the right. FA: Eckhart Druschke & Romey Stapley, 1976 | 65m | |||
18 | ★ Ambush
1
13
18m
2
15
11m
3
18
13m
4
10
6m
The climb is 100m upstream of the junction with Great Gully. At this point there is a 6m overhang at the top of the face. The climb starts at a 2,5m long rock splinter leaning against the face.
Notes:
FA: R. Davies, G. Carter & J. Barclay, 1957 | 48m | |||
15 | Warcry
1
15
22m
2
13
22m
Start 12m downstream of AMBUSH next to a 3m high rock rib.
Note: A rather scrappy route compared with others in the area. FA: A.D. Barley & M. White, 1969 | 44m | |||
13 | ★ Battle Crack
1
13
12m
2
6
15m
3
11
15m
4
11
15m
5
8
10m
Commence about 20m up Great Gully from its junction with Fernkloof proper.
FA: E. Scholes & M. Estill, 1948 | 67m | |||
15 | Pigdog
1
13
12m
2
7
16m
3
15
35m
FA: P. Bender & K.M. Smith, 1977 | 63m | |||
13 | Keyhole
1
13
12m
2
10
22m
3
10
25m
FA: P. Harris, R. Forsyth & Miss J. Humphreys, 1957 | 59m | |||
13 | ★ Something Else
1
13
10m
2
6
20m
3
13
28m
Start 8m right of BATTLE CRACK and 12m left of KEY ROUTE where a medium-sized tree grows out of a split in the overhang above.
Variation: 3a. 15 Something Further: From the small tree 10m up, climb the brown vertical wall to the left. Zig-zag up and enter a conspicuous brown square recess with blocks at its base. Swing around the block to the right and re-enter the chimney on to the top. (Sep 1979 R. Fox and D. Scott) | 58m | |||
15 | Something Further
1
13
10m
2
6
20m
3
15
28m
FA: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1979 | 58m | |||
7 | ★ Key Route
1
7
12m
2
5
10m
3
7
12m
4
25m
Commence in Great Gully at its junction with the main kloof.
Note: Pitches 2 and 3 are seldom climbed and the variation below is the more usual route. Variation: 2 & 3. 25m 10 Instead of traversing left, climb directly up to small tree in recess. Move right onto nose and up diagonally right into a brown recess. Climb recess past a stamvrug tree. Continue up and left over blocks and step left under nose to triangular patch of grass. 4a 25m 7 Climb crack at back of ledge and move left to enter final chimney to top. FA: F.G. Petousis, E. Ruhle & K. Ruhle, 1947 | 59m | |||
15 | ★ Quiver Face
1
15
18m
2
10
5m
3
7
30m
4
10
22m
Commence in main kloof approximately 15m below junction of Great Gully. There is a small overhang 18m above the starting point.
Variation: 1a. 15m 10 Avoid the first pitch as described by starting 3m downstream from Great Gully. This is the more obvious route. FA: E. Scholes & M. Estill, 1950 | 75m | |||
10 | ★ Quiver Face Variant
1
10
15m
2
10
5m
3
7
30m
4
10
22m
FA: E. Scholes & M. Estill, 1950 | 72m | |||
19 | ★ Quiver Direct
1
19
28m
2
13
28m
3
15
25m
Start as for QUIVER FACE, about 15m downstream of junction of Great Gully below a small smooth recess, and 18m below some overhangs.
Variation: (QUIVER DIRECTER) 1a. 28m 17 Start in smooth recess (same as QUIVER DIRECT). Climb up and move left at top (15). Move 2m left and climb 2,5m up. A number of delicate moves brings one to ledge below overhang with two breaks. Move delicately up to the left of the left hand break until a very thin slit below the overhang acts as a handhold. Move right to the break in the overhang and then make a difficult move up the recess to below the second overhang (17). Move left to belay point. (This recess is 2m to the left of the original route which climbs the right hand recess with the aid of a peg.) Variation opening party unknown. FA: Paul Fatti, R. Davies & B. Penzhorn, 1972 | 81m | |||
20 | Quiver Direct Variation
1
16
45m
2
20
15m
Start as for QUIVER DIRECT.
Note: Protection on the second pitch is excellent and climbing is strenuous. FA: P.S. Greenfield, Russ Dodding & T.P. Wilmot, 1987 | 60m | |||
15 | Lazarus
1
15
25m
2
15
43m
Start 3m downstream of the start of QUIVER DIRECT and 3m upstream of the big chock boulder above the wade pool. The pitch follows a crack system on the left hand side which is entered by starting on a large boulder just downstream of it.
Note: The first pitch is the same as that of QUIVER FACE apart from the first few moves. FA: M. Makowski & Paul Fatti, 1973 | 68m | |||
13 | Entree
1
13
25m
2
13
25m
The climb starts from the tree in the gully 30m from the corner of QUIVER FACE.
FA: Merv Prior & A. Firth, 1974 | 50m | |||
10 | ★ Pinnacle Gully
1
10
12m
2
8
15m
3
8
22m
4
8
12m
The pinnacle is situated on the left hand side of the kloof about 100m below the junction of Great Gully and is only detached at its top. Slightly up kloof of the pinnacle is a small gully on the left. The route starts by entering the gully by a short pitch, after which the pinnacle is climbed in the corner formed by its upstream side and the main face.
Variation:
FA: R.W. Charlton, 1951 | 61m | |||
17 | ★★ Phallus Direct
1
16
35m
2
17
30m
The route follows a direct line up the front of the Fernkloof pinnacle. Start 5m to the right of PINNACLE GULLY on a smooth sloping slab facing upstream, slightly left of prominent open book breaking through the overhangs.
Notes:
FA: Tim Hoole, G. Muller & Ian Guest, 1985 | 65m | |||
14 | ★★★ Pinnacle Frontal
1
11
12m
2
14
18m
3
7
12m
4
13
22m
The route commences at an overhung damp, grey face immediately below the summit.
Variation: (3 stars) 4a. 15m 13 From the point at which the pinnacle becomes free-standing, ascend middle of upstream face in slight chimney and move right into the gap beneath the huge top block of the pinnacle. Crawl to outside tip of pinnacle and pull-up spectacularly. Rope work is very tricky here. Continue easily to top. FA: E. Scholes, J. Fowler & Merv Prior, 1951 | 64m | |||
16 | ★★ Pullover
| 60m | |||
15 | Horoscope
1
13
18m
2
8
9m
3
7
9m
4
15
9m
This route follows a line about 6m to the right of PINNACLE FRONTAL, ending at the top of the pinnacle on its north (downstream) side.
Note: The route is a little contrived, as escape to the right is possible at the top of every pitch, except the third. FA: R. Davies, I. Cohen & G. Carter, 1957 | 45m | |||
19 | ★ Sandanista
| 54m | |||
15 | Pancake
1
10
15m
2
7
15m
3
15
25m
4
8
15m
70m downstream from HOROSCOPE to the right of a large pool at first obvious break in rock face.
FA: J.E. Stapley, R.L. Stapley, S. Rademeyer & P. Finsen, 1969 | 70m | |||
7 | Men Only Crack
1
7
12m
2
5
18m
3
7
8m
4
7
9m
Start at end of long earth ramp which commences about 50m above the junction of Middle Gully, just downstream of an exceptionally large chockstone blocking the kloof.
Variations: 2a. 6m 8 Move up leftwards then back right along a ramp to a block belay. 3a. 22m 15 Traverse up right, round the arete and up a bulging crack. Step left and up a shallow corner crack to the top. 4a. 15m 10 Traverse round a nose on the right and climb a crack in an exposed position. FA: E. Scholes, B. Chadwick & H. Taylor, 1948 | 47m | |||
15 | ★★ Rampart
1
13
28m
2
13
29m
3
15
18m
From Middle Gully Left go up the kloof keeping high on the right hand side until all further progress is barred by a great column which protrudes from the face.
FA: R. Duff & B. Tyson, 1968 | 75m | |||
21 | Revenge of the Nerds
1
17
30m
2
21
25m
Same start as STATE OF INDEPENDENCE.
FA: M. Brunke, M. Giddy & A. N. Other | 55m | |||
19 | State of Independence
1
13
15m
2
19
35m
About 70m upstream of DEXTER, on the left hand side of Fernkloof, is a steep wall of auburn rock with the bottom of the kloof forming a ramp.
FA: M. Brunke & J. Cheesmond, 1983 | 50m | |||
14 | Get It Up for Ada!
Situated halfway down Middle Gully Left, the route takes the pronounced groove (cairn) 25m upstream of CHOCKSTONE FACE and follows the left-leaning openbook/ramp system to the top (wormhole visible from bottom).
FA: T.P. Willmot & P.S. Greenfield, 1986 | 45m | |||
10 | Bored, Bored, Bored
About 40m upstream of SCAR in middle gully left is a cave with a left facing open book above.
FA: Ian Guest & Tim Hoole, 1985 | ||||
17 | Not Now John
1
17
45m
2
10
15m up the gully to the left of DEXTER is an obvious chimney/crack on the true left hand side. Scramble up easily to a stance.
FA: M. Brunke & J. Cheesmond, 1983 | 45m | |||
19 | ★ The Scar
1
19
12m
2
10
25m
3
17
35m
Located 10m upstream of CHOCKSTONE FACE up middle gully left.
FA: Ian Guest, G. Muller & Tim Hoole, 1985 | 72m | |||
10 | ★★ Chockstone Face
1
7
25m
2
10
22m
3
7
15m
This route commences in a recess at the actual point where the face of Middle Gully Left meets the face of the main kloof.
FA: O. Shipley, 1948 | 62m | |||
15 | ★★★ Dexter
1
15
25m
2
10
12m
3
7
25m
4
18m
20m downstream of Middle Gully Left is a wide red slab at 9m, both undercut at its base and overhung above. This slab is traversed from left to right. Start behind a large boulder at the upstream extremity of the slab.
FA: Paul Fatti, J. Anderson, A.C. Carmen & M. Makowski, 1966 | 80m | |||
19 | ★★ Dextrose
1
19
30m
2
13
10m
3
15
30m
Start as for DEXTER.
FA: L.P. Fatti & R. Georgeson-Cecil, 1979 | 70m | |||
23 | Jackboots and Brownshirt
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991 | 35m | |||
21 | ★★★ The Right Stuff
1
21
20m
2
10
12m
3
20
43m
Essentially a direct version of DEXTER.
Note: The first free ascent was in Aug 1987 by S. Middlemiss and M. Hyslop. First ascent: 16 Nov 1986 R. Dodding and P. Greenfield (Pitch 1); Feb 1969 A.D. Barley and M. White (Pitch 3). FA: Stewart Middlemiss & M. Hyslop, 1987 | 75m | |||
19 | ★★ High Noon
1
17
14m
2
19
12m
3
10
18m
4
19
15m
5
11
9m
6
15
20m
10m downstream from THE RIGHT STUFF, a downstream facing slab cuts through the overhangs which guard the base of the crag. This route follows the slab through the overhangs, then breaks up right below further overhangs to finish up a series of steep cracks above.
FA: A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1968 | 88m | |||
21 | The Dark of the Sun
Climbs through the large overhangs guarding the base of the crag near HIGH NOON. This is approximately 50-70m downstream of DEXTER. The route follows some obvious cracks through the roofs (about 5m above the streambed) into a shallow chimney/corner, which is followed to easier ground.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Mike Hislop, 1989 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ The Cracked Mirror
1
18
35m
2
18
15m
3
15
15m
Start by a large tree at the base of two parallel cracks which lie midway between HIGH NOON and AMPUTATION CHIMNEY. This climb starts up the left hand of these 2 cracks. About 15m above are two recesses, each containing a single tree.
FA: Russ Dodding & P.S. Greenfield, 1986 | 65m | |||
19 | Bee Sting
1
15
30m
2
13
25m
3
19
25m
Start by a large tree at the base of two parallel cracks which lie midway between HIGH NOON and AMPUTATION CHIMNEY.
FA: Paul Fatti & P. Anderson, 1973 | 80m | |||
17 | ★ It's Looking Good Houston!
1
16
35m
2
15
15m
3
17
15m
4
15
20m
Start 7m upstream from SUSTAGEN at the base of a 4m long crack. Above lies a downstream-facing buttress, which has a mass of tangled roots at its base.
Note: Rather scrappy first pitch. Good climbing above that. FA: P.S. Greenfield & Russ Dodding, 1986 | 85m | |||
16 | Sustagen
1
15
25m
2
11
25m
3
16
20m
The climb starts 5m upstream of AMPUTATION CHIMNEY.
FA: S. Akers & B. Schumacher, 1979 | 70m | |||
15 | Amputation Chimney
1
10
30m
2
5
7m
3
15
20m
4
10
23m
The chimney is an obvious 1m break in the wall about 80m below Middle Gully.
FA: E. Scholes, P. Petousis & O. Shipley, 1948 | 80m | |||
17 | ★ The Opposition
1
15
25m
2
13
22m
3
17
20m
20m downstream from AMPUTATION CHIMNEY, on the same side, is a group of three large trees. Climb starts up face directly opposite these trees with a very small corner at the base of the face (cairn).
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & G. von Maltitz, 1985 | 67m | |||
19 | ★★ Late in the Evening
1
19
15m
2
13
15m
3
15
25m
4
16
35m
The climb starts 25m downstream from AMPUTATION CHIMNEY. The climb ascends a shallow open book which continues as a crack through a bulge near the top. A large tree is found just upstream and the open book is flanked by a greyish slab to the left.
Notes: Pleasant climb, well protected. FA: Darryl Margetts & A. Mercer, 1986 | 90m | |||
19 | ★ Reach for the Sky
1
15
30m
2
17
30m
3
19
25m
The climb starts directly below the lower overhangs on the buttress on which PRIVATE EYES is located, and starts from the top of a boulder adjacent to a whitish face and large root.
Notes: An old piton was found on the ledge below the open book of the second pitch. On pitch 3 the rock at the base of the recess appears to be loose, although it was solid when climbed. FA: Russ Dodding & P.S. Greenfield, 1986 | 85m | |||
20 | ★★★ Bangalala Brooks
1
15
25m
2
20
45m
Pack your leopard print broeks for this one. Climbs the impressive downstream facing wall on the next major buttress downstream from HIGH NOON. This is about 30m upstream of the roped boulder problem in the kloof. The base is guarded by fearsome ferns and barbed bushy brambles. Start to the right of these below a shallow weakness.
From the summit two convenient raps on the upstream side of the buttress put you back in the river. FA: Hector Pringle, Craig De Villiers & Andrew Porter, 2012 | 70m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Private Eyes
1
19
30m
2
19
25m
Devious route finding, sustained climbing. About 80m downstream from HIGH NOON is a buttress with several prominent noses about 20m up. The downstream face is red and is capped by several white roofs. The route starts about 15m above the stream and winds its way up the face, finishing on the right.
FA: George Mallory & Steven Mallory, 1984 | 55m | |||
20 | ★ Grand Bizarre
1
20
25m
2
16
37m
3
14
15m
The climb starts about 30m downstream of the prominent undercut buttress on which PRIVATE EYES is located, therefore being about 15m upstream of the wade pool at the lower end of the kloof. At the base of the climb is a cave-like recess, and at its' entrance a tree which is growing across the kloof. High above, and slightly to the left, is a prominent open book. The climb starts on the extremity of the left hand wall of the recess, the initial line being capped by a chockstone and cubbyhole at 5m.
FA: P.S. Greenfield & T.P. Willmot, 1986 | 77m | |||
19 | ★ Bland Huzza
1
19
25m
2
16
40m
The route takes the right-slanting line starting at the apex of the cave mentioned in GRAND BIZARRE. Cairn.
FA: T.P. Willmot, G. Zippel & Stewart Middlemiss, 1986 | 65m | |||
23 | ★ Breaking the Rules
| 20m | |||
17 | The Joker
1
17
30m
2
13
40m
FA: A. Firth, David Hughes & P. Goodridge, 1974 | 70m | |||
18 | The Revealing Science of God
Exact location unknown. The route starts about 75m up the kloof, past the cascades where the kloof widens slightly. Walk past the cascades to where the kloof is blocked by a large boulder on the right and one or two on the left. The stream makes a small waterfall here. Climb up on the left using the thick roots of a tree growing on the left wall and the boulder closest to it. Walk left and find the cairn. Look up and you will see three large roofs above you. Dyno for a nice jug on the face above you and climb to the open book. FA: A. Steyn & Noki, 1997 |
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