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Access issues

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) owns Grootkloof and allows access through a permit system. Please contact the Magaliesberg section of the MCSA for permits and access information.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

Drive to the well known Sparkling Waters hotel. After passing the hotel you go onto a dirt road. About 1 km further you will find Ronnie Bartlett's farm on the right. There is a signpost that says "Kranskloof Hiking Trail". You can park here (sign the book and pay R40 parking fee). Walk back towards the hotel and after a short while you will see a signpost on the right next to a small pedestrian gate. Go through this and follow the trail down.

The trail goes through the lower campsite and then crosses a stream just below the campsite. From here the trail goes uphill about parallel to Grootkloof and then descends into the kloof via Grootkloof Gully.

Ethic

No bolting.

Routes

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Grade Route

The climb starts about 10m downstream of Woody Gully at a large (75cm diameter trunk) tree. Above the start 2m up is an overhang which runs more or less unbroken from Woody Gully.

  1. 15m (10) Climb up to ledge just above the tree and traverse left under the overhang. Ascend left of the overhang and continue up and slightly diagonally right on knobbly rock to a large ledge. The main feature of the second pitch is a sharp dihedral crack with a tree 4m up. The tree's roots go down the crack to the ledge.

  2. 40m (15) Climb up the bottom part of the crack using the tree roots. Above the tree make an off-balance move to get into the crack. Follow the crack up and move onto the left hand wall where the right hand wall becomes overhanging. Continue up over another cruxy section where the crack widens a bit to a large ledge. It is possible to belay here if you want to see you second, otherwise continue up on easy sloping slab to the top.

Scramble off the back of the climb and walk down Woody Gully.

FA: D. Bell, F. Vill, F. Villa & T. Bright, 1952

15 37m, 10 15m

Scramble up a gully on the true left about 40m downstream Grootkloof Gully. At the top of the gully is a cave with the first aid dump. The route starts a few meters right of the first aid dump.

  1. 37m (15) Climb up sloping face with crack running diagonally right through it to a ledge below a small overhang. Climb up to and around the overhang on the right using the steep face on the right to gain the crack above the overhang. Follow the crack up to a ledge below the prominent overhang.

  2. 15m (10) Climb through the overhang following the line of the crack through it. There is a good wobbly chockstone in the crack above the overhang that can be used as a sling point. Impressive climbing but not very difficult. Continue up crack and onto smooth sloping ledge. Belay on the ledge or continue higher to a tree.

This climb is normally done in one pitch.

FA: C. Nicholls, C. Purdham & C. Gebhardt, 1938

Activity

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