True Left All Trad climbing 35 routes in sector

The climb is located on the left hand faces opposite the descent gully at the top of the kloof. Start at the base of an open book which leads up to a red overhang. The climb skirts this overhang to the right and then breaks through a second overhang via a bottomless shallow open book.

1. [11] 15m

   Climb open book, stepping right at tree at 5m. Belay in corner on broken rock 2m below first overhang.

2. 20m 19 Climb up diagonally right to below overhangs (3m). Traverse right on good holds onto sloping arete. Swing left on good holds and move up diagonally left to break/open book in second roof. Step up on loose block and wedge trunk into shallow open book. Wedge up open book until a resting point is reached. Climb up break line until angle eases at grade 17.

The climb starts about 16m upstream from the start of 'Grandstand' at a small gnarled tree 2m downstream from the boulder at the corner of the gully leading out of Trident kloof to the west.

1. [9] 18m

   Climb almost vertically for 9m to a large sloping ledge from which the route angles slightly to the right while climbing a further 5m. Scramble up the last 4m to the base of 'Grandstand' pinnacle.

2. 14m 7 Climb the face just to the left of the pinnacle, surmount overhang 3m up (some moves encroach on 'PINNACLE CHIMNEY) and continue to top of pinnacle. Alternatively the east face of the pinnacle can be climbed which maintains a grade 9 difficulty to the top.

3. 20m 8 Belay leader from the pinnacle top from where the pitch starts as a horizontal traverse to the left for 6m, at the same level as the belayer, turn the corner above an overhang, angle upwards to the left for 9m to a big chockstone which is the last obstacle before reaching the top, which is only 3m to the left of the top of 'Grandstand'.

The climb is on a prominent buttress at the corner formed by the main kloof and the wooded gully opposite 'Trident Ridge'. Variations to the right and left are possible. Ascend the buttress to a small pinnacle, thence directly to top of krantz.

On right hand side looking up Trident at the last high yellow buttress at the top of the kloof, opposite the descent gully. Start 25m downstream from the corner of the buttress, after scrambling up to a wide grass ledge.

1. [15] 30m Climb the bulging wall and traverse diagonally right up to a block which looks as if it is standing on nothing. Climb over it to a large ledge. From the ledge follow a crack which slants right. Continue up a steep wall above and finish left of an overhang.

The start is located opposite 'George' descent gully slightly upstream in a woody side gully to the main kloof. The route follows the arete formed by the upper limits of the main kloof and the side gully. Start in a pronounced open book in side gully (near 'Grandstand').

1. 15m 11 Ascend open book, climbing diagonally right across right hand page to ledge on arete.

2. 25m 17 Above the ledge is a vague recess capped by an overhang about 3m to the right of arete. Climb to overhangs breaking out left (crux). Follow arête to top.

On the left side of the kloof immediately below the entry of the side kloof is a prominent buttress which due to its good rock, easy angle and general rough structure offers opportunity for easy climbs of grade 6 standard with the possibility of many variations and the linking together of different routes.

Directly opposite 'Skeleton' cavern is a steep wall topped by a series of open books leading up diagonally leftwards. Scramble 10m up to the base of the wall. The route starts at the base of the wall approximately 5m to the left of a long prominent overhang which occurs very close to ground level.

1. 35m 13 Ascend the wall in a shallow recess (strenuous) to a slight overhang. Traverse right to a comfortable ledge with tree (15m). From the ledge ascend diagonally leftwards through a pronounced series of open books to the top where a large tree in the centre of a gully may be used as a belay. The crux is on the wall at the beginning of the pitch.

Directly opposite 'Pink Corner' is a rather broken buttress. Scramble 12m up to its base. The initial objective is a cave at 5m guarded by a short steep wall providing the crux of the climb.

1. 5m 15 Ascend the shallow recess which leads directly up the cave, where there is a wild fig tree, and tree belay.

2. 15m 11 Continue up the crack line behind with a step left at 5m then over blocks to tree belay.

3. 17m 7 Ascend rightwards then up left to avoid a detached flake to the top. Alternatively continue up towards right finishing up a small rib.

Note: Pitch 1 is often wet, but the following variations are usually dry:

1a. 17 Start 6m left of the original start and move up to a semi-hand traverse right to gain the ledge.

1b. 15 Start 5m right of the original start and ascend a steep wall on good holds.

Situated approximately opposite 'Bayonet' (or 'Pinnacle Route'). Scramble up vegetated ledge starting opposite 'Illegitimate' and move along ledge up to left. Route starts up steep wall to right of corner with tree root in it (cairn). A tree with a 30cm diameter trunk grows on this ledge about 2m from start.

1. 35m 16 Climb steep wall moving right to small cubbyhole (5m). Climb straight up steep rock above to base of short open book with tree. Climb open book and arete above to top.

Directly opposite roots below 'Ogive'. Climb starts next to large tree with hammerkop's nest.

1. 12m 11 Ascend face, bearing slightly left, to large ledge and tree belay.

2. 22m 11 Climb steep broken face at left of ledge, moving gradually left, to a point at the right of large cave.

3. 18m 15 Climb easy face for 12m to base of open book. Climb steep open book 6m to top of climb.

Two low-angle tree-filled gullies enter Trident on the true left at the dogleg between the upper and lower climbing area. (These gullies are extensions of the upper and lower parts of the kloof respectively.) From the stream bed walk about 100m up the upper gully to where the true left side reaches its' highest. The route follows a red dihedral, topping out at a one meter long horizontal rock finger. Belay on top of a four meter high rock buttress between a tree and the base of the face.

1. 30m 14 Climb diagonally left over an easy juggy wall to gain the dihedral just above a large creeper. Keeping in the corner as much as possible, climb to the top.

About 100m upstream of 'Lifebuoy', on the same side of the kloof, is a gully, after which you come to a small rock buttress. The route takes the face facing the kloof. Half-way up there is a ledge where a small tree is visible. Above the ledge is an open book.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face starting about 2m left of the arete. Directly up for 4m and then tend diagonally right towards the arete for 3-4m and then up left to a large ledge with a tree growing on it. Climb the open book directly above and swing up and left to a resting place. Continue up the steep crack directly above to the top.

Walk upstream of 'Lifebuoy' and as the kloof takes a turn to the left a face can be seen with roots hanging down.

1. 20m 19 Climb up past the roots to an open book on the left. Move up the open book to a small ledge. Continue up steep face to a good belay ledge.

2. 15m 12 Above is a recess with a face - climb the recess to the left.

Note: Reach dependent.

Climb the off-width above the roots to the right of 'Reach for the Stars'.

1. 20m 16 Start at the base of the off-width at the roots. Climb the roots then the off-width to a good ledge.

2. 15m 14 Climb the short face to the left of the second pitch of 'Reach for the Stars'.

Situated about 80m upstream and on the same side as 'Lifebuoy', just downstream of the wide gully. The first major feature of this wall downstream of the gully (marked as 'Steep pink crags roots at base', on map of lower kloof), is a downstream-facing corner, liberally festooned with roots. Downstream of this corner is a large tree next to the face; start 10m right of this tree, below a red open-book (8m up), at some tree roots.

1. 35m 16 Climb easily up stepped ledges towards the open-book. Ascend this for 2m then move out easily rightwards, below its capping roof. Climb the clean, attractive face above via the obvious break, to a ledge adjacent to a tree. Continue directly up a short wall and recess to belay on a large, horizontally-growing fig tree. Note: Nice climbing. Good afternoon pitch.

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Start 5m to the left of 'Lifebuoy'.

1. 40m 18 Climb the face tending diagonally right to just above the "lifebuoy" hold. Continue up the face to the top, just to the right of the 'Lifebuoy Direct' crack.

The route starts 9m to left of 'Shady Overhang'.

1. 15m 20 Ascend 6m to beginning of a shallow recess, where a vertically inserted piton was left. Move up to overhang. Then move left out of recess, up for 2,5m then diagonally right and up for 8m to a small stance. On this portion the grips were rather smooth. A "lifebuoy" grip is encountered however, which enables one to rest for a few seconds.

2. 8m 15 At stance level traverse right 6m and descend slightly to share a stance with 'Shady Overhang'.

3. 23m 13 Ascend diagonally left and up to base of recess (dead bush halfway when climb was opened) and exit left at top. From here traverse left and up to base of chimney-like recess up to a good tree belay.

Start a few meters downstream of 'Lifebuoy', in a left-facing corner.

1. 15m 22 Climb straight up to the largest flat roof and break through the right hand side of this. Continue up to a ledge on the right. Easy rock leads to the top.

The route starts 1m to the left of 'Shady Overhang'.

1. 12m 21 Climb onto a block and traverse left 1m, from where a wedge can be placed in a crack high up on the left. Climb up to the roof and continue through the roof 1m to the left then up right to gain a stance on top of a block.

2. 30m 15 Traverse right 2m, here the route crosses 'Lifebuoy', and ascend 2m then left 4m. Continue up a recess to the top.

Start as for 'Shady Overhang'.

1. 15m 23 Climb straight up to the roof (SHADY OVERHANG trends right). Break through about 2m left of 'Shady Overhang' and follow the thin crack to a ledge. Easy rock leads to the top.

The climb is on the polished face downstream of the practice belay pitch. There are large trees in the kloof in this area, which shade the lower half of the face. The upper branches actually brush the face in places.

1. [20] 12m

   Ascend 8m on steep rock to an overhang. Climb the overhang at its least severe point i.e. via a shallow cleft which slopes diagonally up to the right. About 4 pitons (A2) were used in the opening ascent at the overhang. The pitch continues up diagonally right to a prominent ledge with piton belay.

2. 18m 10 Traverse left to above first pitch and then ascend to stance.

3. 6m 11 Continue upwards to top.

This climb is situated 20m upstream from 'Convalescence' on the same side of the kloof.

1. 15m 16 Climb an obvious route on polished-looking rock to point underneath overhang. There is a fixed piton above an obvious block on the left 1,5m below the overhang. Use small upturned nose halfway up to break through overhang, as sling point and key hand hold. After passing crux move, next sling point is large polished block on right. Move up to right of this sling point and traverse left to obvious stance. Use piton belay in vertical crack 1,5m above stance.

2. 28m 11 Proceed slightly left up obvious route to recess 10m up. First 9m vertical with no sling points. First sling point is root in slight recess. Second sling point 3m higher in crack. Proceed up, bearing left, to large block with layback move to final belay point.

The route follows a line which starts 3m to the right of the start of 'Bat's Overhang' and goes straight up and through V-shaped open book at the top of the crag. This open book is to the right of the final Convalescence slab.

1. 35m 17 Climb up broken rock to below first overhang. Use hand jam to move through overhang to below second overhang. Swing left on good handhold and reach 1,5m to another good hold. Climb 2m and then move right into mantelshelf. Climb up easier rock to base of V-shaped open book to the right of the final slab of CONVALESCENCE. Climb up open book.

Note: The route write-up was submitted by T. White and S. Morkel.

The climb is situated on the first sizeable face on the right hand side of the kloof, ascending. The face is topped by a prominent overhang.

1. [11] 18m

   Commence from the path which runs along the base of the face at this point. Ascend to within 3m of the prominent overhang where a piton belay can be made.

2. 18m 7 Traverse left, gaining height at the same time, to a small ledge of white rock 6m up. (Fixed piton.)

3. 12m 13 Ascend the steep red face above the stance on small but sharp grips, and finish up a crack 3m to the left of the start of the pitch.

Variation: A slight recess midway between the normal start and 'Bat's Overhang' takes one from the ground to a point about three-quarters way along the traverse pitch.

1. [11] 18m

   A slight recess midway between the normal start and 'Bat's Overhang' takes one from the ground to a point about three-quarters way along the traverse pitch.

2. 18m 7 Traverse left, gaining height at the same time, to a small ledge of white rock 6m up. (Fixed piton.)

3. 12m 13 Ascend the steep red face above the stance on small but sharp grips, and finish up a crack 3m to the left of the start of the pitch.

Crack/chimney with large wedged block 12m downstream from 'Convalescence'. The climb finishes through the first obvious break in the overhangs to the right of Convalescence.

1. 18m 7 Follow crack to block (one can pass between block and face). Gain top of block via its right hand face. Continue up nose, starting a few meters to right of stance on large ledge.

2. 15m 8 Up and a shade left on face above, passing left of small overhang. This gives access to small recess which leads up into open book formed by the face and the right side of the above mentioned break in the overhang.

Crack/chimney with large wedged block 12m downstream from 'Convalescence'. The climb finishes through the first obvious break in the overhangs to the right of 'Convalescence'.

1. 18m 7 Follow crack to block (one can pass between block and face). Gain top of block via its right hand face. Continue up nose, starting a few meters to right of stance on large ledge.

2. 15m 7 It is possible , by ascending small white recess on right side of face, to pass to the right of the main overhangs.