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Summary

This is the grandest and most scenic kloof in the Magaliesberg.

Access issues

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) wholly own Tonquani. Access to non-members is restricted by permits issued by the Johnnesburg section of the MCSA.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Where to stay

There is a campsite just above the kloof. The campsite has no facilities. Water is available from the stream all year round.

Ethic

Leave no trace. Monkey cages are installed at the campsite and at the meet spot in the kloof, you are advised to store food items in these to prevent the monkeys from eating it. Please do not leave litter in the cages and please do not feed the monkeys. Bolting is prohibited.

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

The route follows a line 3m left of Good Time.

Climb the groove to a blocky ledge. Move to the back of the blocky ledge and climb the open book with a fist-sized crack at the top.

FA: T.P. Willmot & U. Kiefer, 1995

Climb the obvious broken groove at the right extremity of the blocky wall on the opposite side of the narrow gully containing Good Time and Party Girl.

Note: Loose in places.

FA: S. Middlemiss & I. Schwartz, 1989

From the point where Donkerhoek Buttress reaches down to stream level, follow the steeply rising ground on its upstream end to a point about 30m from the stream where the rock makes a 90° angle to the right. Climb this corner.

  1. 12m 13. Ascend the corner. Move right at the top to a stance in a recess next to a 2m tall obelisk. (Crux in first 3m)

  2. 30m 10. Move left and continue up broken corner towards the blocky overhang. Traverse left under overhangs across a pleasant red face for about 5m and ascend to the top via a recess at the end of the overhang.

FA: R. Charlton & E. Ruhle, 1952

  1. A steep right-angled corner is climbed until a narrow ledge running off to the left is reached.

  2. Traverse left along the ledge and then ascend a steep corner with good holds to a small stance at the foot of a long flat face. Small bollard for belay.

  3. Traverse right 2m (thin). Ascend the face to the top. exposure is noticeable but grips, although sometimes small, are never lacking.

Pitches 1, 2, and 3 can be climbed as one pitch.

Note: H. Wong etc. made the first ascent of pitch 1. Pitches 2 and 3 were first climbed in Oct 1946 by R. Charlton, E. Pearlstein, and Miss E. Chadwick.

FA: H. Wong, H. Barker & M. Burton, 1939

Activity

Check out what is happening in Upper Tonquani Kloof.