This route starts downstream and around the corner from KANGAROOF. A short scramble up a gully to a cave leads to a steep face on the left (looking inwards). Two open books are seen. A prominent one on the left side and a shallow one on the right. This route starts up the shallow right hand open book.
20m 19 Climb up easy rock to the base of the open book. Continue up the open book to the bulge. Move up past the bulge (crux) to a good ledge.
45m 17 Move rightwards and upwards from the ledge to the base of a crack system. Climb the crack past a rail moving leftwards near the top. Continue up easier rock past two trees moving rightwards into another open book. Climb this open book to a ledge and belay.
Notes:
Good clean climbing, mainly on first pitch.
One may scramble off at various places on the second pitch.
The top part of TEN O'CLOCK CRAWL's third pitch is shared with this climb.
9 May 1987 | First ascent: Darryl Margetts & G. Lainis |
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19,17 | Assigned grade |
★★Marc dM | |
20 | SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg. BLACK EAGLES nest from April to October inclusive and the following climbs should NOT be done during this period. NEW ERA CRACK, LILLIPUT RIDGE and THE CRYSTAL SHIP.
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